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Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: Brad Young on May 12, 2014, 04:00:42 PM
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My first climbing trip to Pinnacles was also my first-ever climbing road trip. We went down after Christmas, 1984, and stayed for six straight days. We camped on the West Side (yeah, before the 1998 floods destroyed that campground) and climbed there and in the High Peaks. The Paul Gagner guidebook was current then, and it got us to climbs I've never since forgotten: Hummingbird Spire (first route I did at Pinnacles); Egg Shell (to this day I still remember the sense of adventure that that one gave me); Condor Crag South (dragging our lunches up behind us and being filled with wonder while eating and taking in the view from the summit - perhaps the one route that almost instantly cemented my love for this place).
That great trip extended into the first two days of 1985. In fact, it helped turn 1985 into my first "big" year in climbing. I started 1985 - on New Years Day itself - by leading my first multi-pitch route. Both pitches of Lava Falls went flawlessly (we dragged two ropes up that one though, because, back then, there was a one bolt anchor at the top of Lava Falls, and that one bolt was well back from the cliff edge; the descent required walking to the top of Hook and Drill and making a two-rope rappel down that). Later in that same year, in Yosemite Valley, I led my first 5.10 crack, did my first Grade V aid wall, my first Grade V in a day, and my first El Cap route. It was indeed a big year, and it really started at Pinnacles.
So that's 30 years of climbing at this wonderful place. I grew to love it quickly, and I love it still.
Last week I went down for my last trip of this, my 30th Pinnacles season. I had a very successful two days (purposeful the first day and fun the second day).
I've posted about The Embarrassment of Riches, the route I climbed last Tuesday. That was the purposeful day, and, honestly, I'm glad it's behind me. What I didn't post about that climb is that The Embarrassment of Riches was the last climb in the 2007 guidebook that is easier than 5.10 that I hadn't done. I was pretty damn happy to mark off that one single box, to finish filling in six pages of check-boxes. I had Gavin watch me put ink to paper (he must think I'm crazy), and when I got home I immediately showed Vicki and Tricia (wife and younger daughter). I even emailed Katie (older daughter) about what I'd done. I think I understood her response; she's in college, and I'm not quite sure we speak the same language (I know I loved what she wrote though). She saw the photos I'd taken of the check boxes at the back of my copy of my book and said:
"I'm truly impressed. Thats a shit ton of climbs. A metric shit ton."
I'm not sure how she could tell the difference between the two types of "tons," but I laughed when I got her email.
And now, after some reflection, I've decided that it's OK to post the same photos here that I sent to Katie, and that it's OK to start a thread about two goals that most of you have helped me with, two efforts that could each actually reach an end. First the photos:
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2938/13940702618_81be991880_c.jpg)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7301/14124335452_8a56345724_c.jpg)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7368/13940662509_49a5914de8_c.jpg)
And now the goals. First, I've ticked all of the "sub 5.10" routes that are in the book, but new routes have gone up since the book came out. Including those new routes in the count, I've done either all but three, or all but five routes known to exist at Pinns that are easier than 5.10 (there are three complete "sub 5.10" routes that I know of and haven't yet done, and two more that are nearly finished or "maybe finished" routes). I hope that, early next season, I can do these few routes (plus any other "sub 5.10s" that go up between now and then) and become (most likely) the first person to have done every route at Pinns that is easier than 5.10. If (IF) I am able to reach this status, it may only last for a day or a week or a month. New routes continue to go up. But I think I'll be able to keep up by doing new routes after they are put up (for a few years anyway - we'll see how I do once I'm hobbling out to routes with my walker and a bottle of Geritol). I've had a ton of fun getting to this point, and I hope I continue to have fun finishing and then "maintaining" this goal.
My second goal is related. Some years ago I did my 800th route at Pinns. It was a first ascent; 14 of us put up a new climb called "The 800 Club" as my 800th route done at Pinns. It was a "mass assault" that included some of my best friends and it was a great day. A few people have asked me since then whether I thought I'd ever get to 900 routes done in good style. Although I kinda doubted that this one would happen, and I haven't really cared much, it now seems like it might.
As of last Wednesday, over the course of 30 years, I've done 881 routes at Pinnacles in good style. I suspect now that I will eventually have done 900 routes, and I think this may happen next season.
If I get there, I'd like to do another "mass ascent" of a new route. I hope that most of the folks on here could find time to join me on that (tentative name of the route-to-be: "Nine Hundred for the Lead").
And now, one final comment. Although these goals are and have been fun, respect for Pinnacles rock has and will continue to come first. That respect takes precedence over any of my climbing goals just as it takes precedence over any other climber's goals too. Respect for Pinns rock means that I have not sought out or created routes just to inflate some (basically dumb) route count. I won't do that, period. And, on that subject, although I've been part of an unusually large wave of new first ascents this just-passed season, those ascents have been made for fun and adventure. They have not been done to artificially increase some already artificial number. I absolutely do not intend to change this pattern, at least not in my own behavior.
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I'm in.
It needs some good rock. I will think on this some if you don't have one in mind already.
I'm pretty sure it is about a metric shit ton, but I round down to shit ton when in doubt.
I'm pretty sure next season you'll have your 20 without too much trying.
I remember when your guidebooks had more white space.
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I'm in.
I was hoping you'd say that ;D
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Congratulations and nice lead(s).
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Congratulations and nice lead(s).
This time you're in no matter what - you missed "The 800 Club," and will be an essential ingredient in "Nine Hundred for the Lead."
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Good on Ya, don't stop at 900 who knows the future holds....
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sounds like a plan. Perhaps I will be close to 700 by then.
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No doubt that's a lotta climbs- admiration in the adventure and spirit you completed them in. Also respect for actually checking the cute little boxes off.
Love to shAre a rope and route and a beer, in that order OR not.
Cheers, marc
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No doubt that's a lotta climbs- admiration in the adventure and spirit you completed them in. Also respect for actually checking the cute little boxes off.
Love to shAre a rope and route and a beer, in that order OR not.
Cheers, marc
They are pretty cute, aren't they?
We will be climbing up here at least the next three weekends in a row, so come on up!
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i'm not worthy!
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I've got a hammer.
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looking forward to the post where he hits the century mark.
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Count me in for route 900! (and see if you can manage to find a virgin line with an aid section!)
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And now, one final comment. Although these goals are and have been fun, respect for Pinnacles rock has and will continue to come first.
Hey Brad,
Congrats on conquering the tick list. As to respecting the rock my last time seeing you at Pinns was you on a difficult stance hammering for a bit then down-climbing to a rest.
The "new" area has 8 routes with a total of 15 lead bolts, that's less than two per route with anchors at 60 to 75 feet up on 6 of them. Of course a few cracks helped with that, but very proud. Glad to be part of the adventure with the Mud People.
Jon Cochran
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I will be there for the 900 Brad.
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You're my hero Brad! A quick look at my book shows 175 boxes out of everything 5.9 and under onsight. I still haven't managed to fill in one of the sections completely but I'm close on a couple. I know I'll never be able to do what you've done but that's OK - this thread isn't about ME! The reasons I may never do some of the routes are many and varied - but if nothing else because of PO overgrowth and some that are just plain nuts :)
You've inspired me to start inking them in - they are currently in pencil - what?.
I think I'll do black for the onsights and red for redpoints :)
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You're my hero Brad! A quick look at my book shows 175 boxes out of everything 5.9 and under onsight. I still haven't managed to fill in one of the sections completely but I'm close on a couple. I know I'll never be able to do what you've done but that's OK - this thread isn't about ME! The reasons I may never do some of the routes are many and varied - but if nothing else because of PO overgrowth and some that are just plain nuts :)
You've inspired me to start inking them in - they are currently in pencil - what?.
I think I'll do black for the onsights and red for redpoints :)
Well I'm nobody's hero (actually, I take that back - hopefully I can still be Tricia's hero for a while yet). It's just a matter of having been at it for a long time. Thirty years compared to the two you've been climbing at Pinns? Plus a fair amount of luck (no long term injuries or other significant interference from "life").
I really enjoy playing the types of numbers games we're talking about here (Lord knows I'll never play the 5.12 or 5.13 type numbers games - I can't do that). For me tracking these numbers is a lot of fun.
And the people? I can look back at so many of these routes that I've done with so many of you, and remember each as a great time with a friend. Memories like that are the true treasures.
We'll have fun on 900 (although it's not likely to include aid Kevin, at least not voluntarily; but we want you in - maybe you can do the "backside" to whatever it is and meet us on top ;D )
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I can look back at so many of these routes that I've done with so many of you, and remember each as a great time with a friend. Memories like that are the true treasures.
Agreed - Priceless!
and I say you are to Pinns what Ken Jennings is to Jeopardy :)
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I'm pretty sure I've never seen Jeopardy. I watch about 15 hours of TV per year.
So, that could be a really, really clever insult; you'd be laughing your head off, and I wouldn't even get it.
The "numbers or not" game is funny in other ways too. Naturally I climb with some people who don't go overboard to keep track of what they've done. Steve Dawson for example. Steve keeps track of some of the climbs he's done, but not others. So, on occasion he'll start up a climb and then realize that he's done it before. Who knows, maybe he gets more "onsights" that way.
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I watch about 15 hours of TV per year.
Did you keep track of those in pencil or ink?
Do you know who Lady Gaga is? Lord? Edward and Bella? Ever eat Coco Puffs?
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Do you know who Lady Gaga is?
Yes (but I'm not impressed).
Lord?
No.
Edward and Bella?
Yes, but only from hearing about them from my girls.
Ever eat Coco Puffs?
Now boy, that's just mean. After all, I'm not the MoM who's a free-range vegan. I do eat less than healthy foods at times. Have I ever eaten CocoPuffs (I'm impressed that you spelled it right too)? Well, lemme answer that with an old saying that they use up here in the mountains: "Is a frog's ass water-tight?"
And I don't differentiate either between free-solos and redpoints. My friend Donny does that. To me it always seemed too dangerous to emphasize that difference.
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Ever eat Coco Puffs?
Now boy, that's just mean. After all, I'm not the MoM who's a free-range vegan. I do eat less than healthy foods at times. Have I ever eaten CocoPuffs (I'm impressed that you spelled it right too)?
I have eaten Cocoa Puffs. Ever have Coco Wheats? Now that is some eatin'! and correctly spelled.
maybe clink got a hold of one of these - I'd actually never heard of it before now - they evidently can't spell either:
You make a coco puff like this:
-Slice a long slit down a cigarette with your razor blade trying not to fluff up the tobacco. Do not cut the whole thing open.
-Sprinkle in some powder cocaine.
-Carefully take a rolling paper and rip the 'glue' part. Lick it and seal the slit. Or, you can just re-role the whole cigarette with the rolling paper.
Light and pass around. You will not notice a strong high unless you use powered crack cocaine. If you do use powdered down crack cocaine, it is no longer a coco puff.
I wonder what it is if you substitute climbing chalk for the weasel dust...
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I spelled Lorde wrong. and Coco Puffs never get old. But no coo coo puffs.
JC, you may borrow my chalk bag for a runout lead any time you want, use liberally.
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As a parent you can stay "up" on pop culture vicariously or secretly be into vampires.
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Coco puffs, now I get the lyrics to a song always thought they were singing about the cereal.
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To me it always seemed too dangerous to emphasize that difference.
Aye, if you're OCD about numbers. Good to know thyself.
Thyself <-- good name for a route
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Thyself <-- good name for a route
Sure - for a narcissist! If you need good names I can help you...for a fee - remember what clink said - the silly name you pick will last forever!
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Reminds me of a route name I wanted to name on a formation I would call the Bread Pile...
... wait for it...
Self Loaving
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Sure - for a narcissist! If you need good names I can help you...for a fee - remember what clink said - the silly name you pick will last forever!
A fee? You can help me name routes and I'll let you belay me. That's a fair trade. :P :P
And Munge doesn't need help, he's come up with some beauties (by way of climb names):
- Red Line
- Full Throttle
- Drop Zone
- Wind Hammer
- Last Remaining Light
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Know Justice, No Peace ...is one of my faves. I should reclimb that soon.
Legitimation
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Emulsified Pride.
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Emulsified Pride.
indicating of course that you got whipped
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Should I be glad I missed Wind Hammer? What is the story with the above mentioned names?
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Should I be glad I missed Wind Hammer? What is the story with the above mentioned names?
Clink, you should not miss Wind Hammer. Small gear on a moderate angle slab right next to an arête in a canyon. Daily the wind will come thru and push the wind over this arête hitting you like a hammer.
The opposite side of that arête captures the Last Remaining Light of the day. Really great lines that F4 and I did on Weeping up on SPH. Would love to give you a tour if you guys would ever stop climbing at Pinns.
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The following real route names are products of having done enough FAs that I've actually run out of ideas a few times. On some of those occasions I've come home and just asked Katie and Tricia for names. Here are three (all on SPH) that resulted:
- Tomatos in Paradise
- Orange Rhymes with Door Hinge
- Pineapple Line Dancing
Makes sense doesn't it? I love these names now.
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Sign me up for the tour. I'll be heading up once a month or so.
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from my list my favorite so far is Insecurity Complex for a 5.9 wide crack.
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from my list my favorite so far is Insecurity Complex for a 5.9 wide crack.
That name for the "5.10d" offwidth that you and I did the FA on up here is pretty good. Remember "A Pound of Flesh?" The 5.10d that we gave it is in quotes because Scuffy B, who is truly an offwidth master (I've seen him free solo 5.10c offwidth), insists it's 5.11b. And so it is in the new book.
Another favorite offwidth crack name is one I put up with Joel and Alan. It's in the South Fork Canyon. When I led it, protection consisted of giant cam after giant cam. After Joel followed he had so much metal hanging off him that I thought of "Heavy Metal." And then when he almost puked from exertion I modified that to "Heavy Mettle."
Then there is your and Clint's 5.10d wide crack at Midguard: "Ground Up."
It's all fun.
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Munge. I sent a pm with my #. Can't tell if it worked. I also saw a pm from you back in Feb. Sorry I didn't get it or back to you.
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forgot about those other two. Protective memory I suppose.
Those are both quite good. perhaps better.
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I don't know what to say, that is a mighty impressive list. Even more impressive than the amount of climbs is how consistent the X's are on your checklist. Good job, I'm sure you could tell campfire tales for years without any repeats.
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... I'm sure you could tell campfire tales for years without any repeats.
There are people on this site who will probably insist that I already do ;)
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There are people on this site who will probably insist that I already do ;)
Oh geez...not THAT story AGAIN!
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Dennis, John and Jon and I were discussing various Pinns routes, their relative danger and fun levels, and which ones we'd done and had yet to do. A couple times I used the phrase "not on my 25 scariest Pinns routes list." So Dennis called me on it, he asked which routes were on my 25 scariest Pinns routes list. So I wrote them down.
It was a fun exercise - I hadn't even thought about several of the routes on the list for years. I also conceded that there were routes that I knew of that seemed scary too, but I hadn't done them and wasn't sure. I gave three examples of "hadn't done them" routes that I thought looked pretty damn scary (the climbs "Hate," "Discontent," and "Terminal Buttress - Last Ever Variation," all put up by none other than Mr. Mud himself).
So here's my list:
TOP FOUR SCARIEST LEADS AT PINNACLES (that I have done; not in any intentional order):
- 520.5. Seldom Seen Pinnacle - West Face 5.8 X (Take a rope, it'll make you feel like you're not free soloing. Besides, with a rope, if the second pitch leader falls, he might take the belayer with him. Did this with David Harden.)
- 854. Herchel Berchel 5.11a R (I had to be rescued from the third pitch of this the first time I tried it - thanks again Dennis. Did that first try with Robert Behrens. Then did it with Dennis - he led the crux pitch though. So I went back and led that pitch with Jennifer Wang. I've led all three pitches.)
- 0.5 Flake Don't Break 5.9+ (Will any of your gear hold a fall? Will any of your holds stay on the rock? Did this with Gavin Emmons.)
- 413. Needful 5.8 R (We joke about "kitty litter." On this one it's true. Total crap rock and total crap gear. For most of a rope length. I estimate that, while leading this, I knocked off a cumulative total of at least 100 pounds of rock. Did this with Robert Behrens.)
THE NEXT FOUR SCARIEST LEADS AT PINNACLES (that I have done; not in any intentional order):
- 828. Desperado Chute Out - Denny Colliver Direct 5.9 R (Start on an easier route, at a one bolt belay 200 feet up. But that one bolt is backed up by gear scattered between knobs at your feet. And then it's only one rope length to the top; I used a 75 meter rope and still had to brace myself among lodestones for the belay. With no anchor. Oh, and bonus, there's a bolt protecting that 75 meters of climbing. And yes, that's meters, not feet. Did this with Jeff Lane.)
- 822. Icarus 5.9 R A3 (It's hard to define why this one is scary - and yet it scared me a lot. The possible 40 to 50 foot lob off the 5.9 would be all air, and that's safe. The belay at the top of the second pitch is interesting. And, for Kevin, the aid was intricate and hard. Did this with Kevin Deweese.)
- 816. Pigeon Crack 5.6 X (it's really 5.8 X) (It took me three leads of this before I figured out that the climb has never gone further. That's a lot of kitty litter packed into 55 feet. Did this with David Harden and then Jim McConachie and then Kevin Deweese.)
- 792. The Arch - Up the Center 5.8 A3 (In a way this one is odd to be scared on/of. A leader is never more than 40 feet off a usually-sandy/soft creek bed. And yet, with a horrible, pivoting slamming-into-the-vertical-wall potential, and with 10 pitons driven straight up into a Pinnacles roof crack - six of those being knifeblades - I was exhausted, bathed in sweat and completely, utterly spent physically and mentally after this one. I did it with John Cook.)
THE NEXT 17 SCARIEST LEADS AT PINNACLES (that I have done; not in any intentional order):
- 450. Wild Turkey 5.10b R
- 780. Flies on a Pile 5.9 R
- 713. Premeditated 5.5 A3
- 642. Elephant Rock - Never Forget 5.10a R
- 798. Daedalus 5.8 R A1
- 455. Crap Chute 5.9 R
- 411. Needle's Eye 5.8 R
- 375. Outcast - South Face 5.6 R
- 345. Fear and Perspiration 5.10a R
- 340. Atlas Shrugs 5.9 R
- 327. Back of The Hand 5.6 R
- 329. Salathe - Wilts Bolt Variation 5.6 R
- 103. Gutter 5.10b R
- 86. Here Comes the Judge 5.11a R
- 55. The Embarrassment of Rich's 5.9+
- 637. Lonesome Bolt 5.6 R (Really 5.8 X)
- 9. Rollerball 5.9 R
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I've redacted my guidebook - jk.
There's a few I may get to one of these days...
Just as an FYI -
Lonesome bolt is in the corrections sticky as 5.8X :)
I was dumb enough to lead Sheepish using that same bolt. That was scary enough for me.
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Lonesome bolt is in the corrections sticky as 5.8X :)
Good point. It's a close call, but I gave it the 5.8 X much closer to when I did it, so my memory was probably better. I edited the list above to show it as "X."
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Herchel Berchel 5.11
(I had to be rescued from the third pitch of this the first time I tried it - thanks again Dennis. Did that first try with Robert Behrens. Then did it with Dennis - he led the crux pitch though. So I went back and led that pitch with Jennifer Wang. I've led all three pitches.)
I see a pattern.
Herchel Berchel is the only one I am aware of doing.
Terminal Buttress the way we went was the worst lead I have done at Pinns.
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Herchel Berchel 5.11I see a pattern.
Herchel Berchel is the only one I am aware of doing.
Terminal Buttress the way we went was the worst lead I have done at Pinns.
OK, I'll bite. What pattern do you see? >:D
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OK, I'll bite. What pattern do you see? Evil
No one, in their right mind, goes back for seconds or thirds. That is why I gently call "it" a "condition", (and admire your bravery from a safe distance).
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After Brad sent his list I started to work on one. I did not originally see his list until he mentioned the attachment. I did it while working late so it is not complete and I have not listed 25 routes. Have been a bit busy lately with work. Will try and come up with a more complete list later. Some of mine are listed as scary because they were at the time not necessarily because the routes are scary.
this list is in no order
Needful; I rope soloed this, it was loose and sketchy. When on top I just stood there for a bit.
Only a Lad; I was up at Marmot soloing and rope soling a bunch of stuff and decided to do this. I think I had actually lead it before but for some reason I thought this was a good idea. Just shy of the anchors as I was pulling over the top the rope came tight. I can’t remember if I was using knots at this time or the Gri-Gri but I was have a super difficult time getting the rope to feed out. I just was not in a good position and did not think I could reverse my move but I could not go up either. Could not really let go, loose hold for my left foot. Really thought I was going to pitch on this one. On getting down it turns out my rope had wound around a small stick and got stuck
Gutter; I do not think this route is to bad but it is full value and you really need two ropes to pull it off.
Premeditated; Took kind of a big fall, lowered to the ground then went back up. One of those weird leads where I started to blank out. I know I did quite a few free moves and I remember getting to the upper crack that leads to the belay. I had a tips finger lock and placed a blue alien and tried to wiggle it in when it got stuck tipped out. Tried to get it loose but it would not move. I was just starring at it. Really did not think it would hold body weight, finally just pulled through got a few moves up, got in an ok green alien, kept moving higher until I got a better cam in. Was kind of surprised I could hang out that long.
90% Inspiration; Did it without the current 1st and 4th bolt. Got up to just before the steeper loose stuff and had basically had a no hands rest but could not move out of it. Did not want to move up or down. I think I asked Clint to go get help and I think he was on his way when I just started to get real pissed at myself for being so chicken shit. It just hit me and everything started to come together. I knew the climbing was not easy, and there was a fair bit of loose rock but at the same time it just did not seem hard. Another route where I got to the point where I kind of blanked out and just climbed. I think there was probably too much cussing on this lead and probably to much whining.
Swallow Crack; The very first time I lead it and the very first time I free soloed it I got stuck on that upper ramp ( the one after turning the corner ). Both times I thought I was going to fall and stalled out for probably 5 to 10 minutes. That route always gave me fits. I have done it very casually but I tend to get the jitters when I get on it thinking of those days.
Herchel Berchel was kinda sketch before the rebolts. The bolts in the ladder did not inspire and the runout was heads up even though not real hard.
Denny Colliver Direct; leader and follower cannot fall. Belayed sitting on my haunches on some slab that I was wishing was not so steep thinking if Clint fell he would pull me into the abyss. Brad had the right idea of using a 70 meter rope.
Wild Turkey; The pro did not inspire and neither did not rock.
Tick in Time; Will put this route on this list. Not real sure how scared I was, but it was dam loose. The first/second crux was loose and I did not know about the gear. The upper part, I figured I was wedged in good enough there was no way I could fall, but damn.
No Holds Barred Direct; First time I lead this I did everything but fall and I did not really trust the gear. Still scary.
Terminal Buttress Final Version (Brad’s Name but it is good); Did this cuz it was there. Just started up and kept going. Used a full rack and was wishing for bigger gear up top. Another route where it all just kicked in. Thought falling might be a bad idea but kinda felt calm at the same time. There were moments on the route where I just kinda hung out and took it all in.
Carpal Tunnel; Getting up to the big knob had my full attention, then after slinging it I had to wonder how good it was. On a later ascent I was feeling my oats and sat on it and it held. So it must be good. Good runout to the top.
Machete Regular Route; rope soloed this and the exit moves over that last bulge while not all that hard had my full attention.
Knife Blade Direct; large portions of this thing is hollow.
Cataract Corner; not a scary route because the fall is safe but after pulling the crux I was trying to reach down and clip the rope into the draw and it was a delicate move. Was super pumped and kept wondering if I could hang on.
Delusion Overhang; Not real hard but the gear kind of sucks and the exit moves are loose.
Forgot the name of the route but I know Brad knows this one. That route in the high peaks that starts of the hand rail. If you fall on the starting moves it is going to hurt. Not bad after that.
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No one, in their right mind...
And yet, if I'm not mistaken in my understanding, you hang out with him, including climbing together, and you call him a friend :o
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Needful; I rope soloed this, it was loose and sketchy. When on top I just stood there for a bit.
At least you and I got the leads. And then there's poor Munge, who had to belay under a shower of rock and then follow the PoS.
Only a Lad; I was up at Marmot soloing and rope soling a bunch of stuff and decided to do this. I think I had actually lead it before but for some reason I thought this was a good idea. Just shy of the anchors as I was pulling over the top the rope came tight. I can’t remember if I was using knots at this time or the Gri-Gri but I was have a super difficult time getting the rope to feed out. I just was not in a good position and did not think I could reverse my move but I could not go up either. Could not really let go, loose hold for my left foot. Really thought I was going to pitch on this one. On getting down it turns out my rope had wound around a small stick and got stuck
This reminds me of a difference between you and I. You've made me do scary routes, but I've never made you do any (well, at Pinns at least - I kinda made/begged you to do Wet Denim Nightmare with me).
Premeditated; Took kind of a big fall, lowered to the ground then went back up. One of those weird leads where I started to blank out. I know I did quite a few free moves and I remember getting to the upper crack that leads to the belay. I had a tips finger lock and placed a blue alien and tried to wiggle it in when it got stuck tipped out. Tried to get it loose but it would not move. I was just starring at it. Really did not think it would hold body weight, finally just pulled through got a few moves up, got in an ok green alien, kept moving higher until I got a better cam in. Was kind of surprised I could hang out that long.
Was this on a free attempt after you and I did it as an aid route?
90% Inspiration; Did it without the current 1st and 4th bolt. Got up to just before the steeper loose stuff and had basically had a no hands rest but could not move out of it. Did not want to move up or down. I think I asked Clint to go get help and I think he was on his way when I just started to get real pissed at myself for being so chicken shit. It just hit me and everything started to come together. I knew the climbing was not easy, and there was a fair bit of loose rock but at the same time it just did not seem hard. Another route where I got to the point where I kind of blanked out and just climbed. I think there was probably too much cussing on this lead and probably to much whining.
One of my favorite climbing stories ever, from any climbing location, comes from my second ascent of this route where you followed me.
Swallow Crack; The very first time I lead it and the very first time I free soloed it I got stuck on that upper ramp ( the one after turning the corner ). Both times I thought I was going to fall and stalled out for probably 5 to 10 minutes. That route always gave me fits. I have done it very casually but I tend to get the jitters when I get on it thinking of those days.
Solution: don't free solo at Pinns ;)
Herchel Berchel was kinda sketch before the rebolts. The bolts in the ladder did not inspire and the runout was heads up even though not real hard.
If I had fallen of that third pitch on my first try I'd have pulled the single, crappy quarter inch bolt and taken a 200 footer. Now if one fell there (at the 5.7/5.8 headwall) it would only be an 80 or 90 foot fall (but then can you get any more dead than dead?).
Denny Colliver Direct; leader and follower cannot fall. Belayed sitting on my haunches on some slab that I was wishing was not so steep thinking if Clint fell he would pull me into the abyss. Brad had the right idea of using a 70 meter rope.
I totally forgot that you and Clint did this too. Was it easier for you - climbing without knowing what you'd find - or for me, knowing exactly what I'd find?
Wild Turkey; The pro did not inspire and neither did not rock.
See above comment about you making me do routes and me never making you do any.
Terminal Buttress Final Version (Brad’s Name but it is good); Did this cuz it was there. Just started up and kept going. Used a full rack and was wishing for bigger gear up top. Another route where it all just kicked in. Thought falling might be a bad idea but kinda felt calm at the same time. There were moments on the route where I just kinda hung out and took it all in.
I'm not sure I'll ever get around to leading this one.
Knife Blade Direct; large portions of this thing is hollow.
I'd totally forgotten about that. But aren't there trees (or a tree) that you can sling?
Forgot the name of the route but I know Brad knows this one. That route in the high peaks that starts of the hand rail. If you fall on the starting moves it is going to hurt. Not bad after that.
526. Condor Crag North - Denny-Colliver Route.
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90% Inspiration; Did it without the current 1st and 4th bolt. Got up to just before the steeper loose stuff and had basically had a no hands rest but could not move out of it. Did not want to move up or down. I think I asked Clint to go get help and I think he was on his way when I just started to get real pissed at myself for being so chicken shit. It just hit me and everything started to come together. I knew the climbing was not easy, and there was a fair bit of loose rock but at the same time it just did not seem hard. Another route where I got to the point where I kind of blanked out and just climbed. I think there was probably too much cussing on this lead and probably to much whining.
I found the story, which bears repeating:
I led Ten Percent Inspiration some years ago (Dennis' memory is off as to the route's name). It was the route's second lead (at least that we know of).
I expected 5.10a since that is what he and Clint had rated it. But I got really surprised by how hard it was for 5.10a. I hung first try, and lowered off and pulled the rope.
I rested and then gave it another (successful) go. Mr Mud followed my lead. As he neared the top of the climb I heard him kind of mumbling. I couldn't quite understand what he was saying, so I asked. He repeated (this time audibly): "I wish I had some more of that."
Naturally I asked: "Some more of what."
His response was classic. He said: "Some more of whatever the hell I was on when I rated that 5.10a."
True story.
The route's solid 5.10c (and it has two more bolts since his first lead - they were added by Clint afterward with Dennis' understanding).
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nah, it's 10a, just hard for the grade.
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nah, it's 10a, just hard for the grade.
Yeah, uhhuh.
It looks like everything is still the same as it's always been in Dennisland.
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nice circumvent.
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Dennisland.
Like Disneyland, but where none of the rides are safe.
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Like Disneyland, but where none of the rides are safe.
;D ;D
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At least you and I got the leads. And then there's poor Munge, who had to belay under a shower of rock and then follow the PoS.
This reminds me of a difference between you and I. You've made me do scary routes, but I've never made you do any (well, at Pinns at least - I kinda made/begged you to do Wet Denim Nightmare with me).
I would not want to follow that without getting the lead. You cornered me into Premeditated, Yankee Pinnacle and that Sonora OW that my mind has an uncanny ability to forget. Kinda wanted to do them, but you made the call. I know there is other stuff that I just do not remember. You pointed me in the direction of a lot of junk or perhaps inspired my toward it, but I am a bit guilty of being a semi willing victim.
Was this on a free attempt after you and I did it as an aid route?
On our attempt. I can still see that blue alien. I wanted so bad for that thing to be good.
Solution: don't free solo at Pinns ;)
Not a very good solution.
If I had fallen of that third pitch on my first try I'd have pulled the single, crappy quarter inch bolt and taken a 200 footer. Now if one fell there (at the 5.7/5.8 headwall) it would only be an 80 or 90 foot fall (but then can you get any more dead than dead?).
I agree, falling on that pitch would be bad for someones health. Quite glad you did not fall ( we still would not have a new guidebook ;) )
I totally forgot that you and Clint did this too. Was it easier for you - climbing without knowing what you'd find - or for me, knowing exactly what I'd find?
I think it was easier not knowing. The 70 m rope was a wise choice.
I'd totally forgotten about that. But aren't there trees (or a tree) that you can sling?
I think at the belay. This route is by definition choss, so it was only fitting I did with Munge.
526. Condor Crag North - Denny-Colliver Route.
I knew you would know this. You have certain super powers.
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I'm way late arriving at this discussion, but I've always thought 866 (Doc Holliday Direct) deserved consideration for an X. A fall would leave you kissing your belayer's toes - at the very least.
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Brad, I was trying to remember if I had every been on Premeditated with anyone other than you. Cannot really remember but I think I did go up there with Munge. I will ask. Drivin me nuts. I need new memory chips.
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...You have certain super powers.
I didn't know that you knew this.
It's true. Ask Tricia and Katie; when they were young we'd play hide-an-seek in the house and I could make myself turn invisible.
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I'm way late arriving at this discussion, but I've always thought 866 (Doc Holliday Direct) deserved consideration for an X. A fall would leave you kissing your belayer's toes - at the very least.
But if you're only kissing a belayer's toes it's "R," right? Unless maybe it's Dennis' toes you're kissing, and those are "XXX."
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But if you're only kissing a belayer's toes it's "R," right? Unless maybe it's Dennis' toes you're kissing, and those are "XXX."
Or Tricia's! PU :)
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Or Tricia's! PU :)
Now is that a polite thing to say about a beautiful, smart, 12 year old girl who can probably out-hike you :P
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That might make a good thread - whose toes turn R routes into X routes. Mine are right up there - or down there.
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Now is that a polite thing to say about a beautiful, smart, 12 year old girl who can probably out-hike you :P
Ain't no probably about it!
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Outrunning Tbola is unlikely.
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I think I did it. Today I led the last two routes I hadn't done. I've now done every route at Pinnacles National Park that is easier than 5.10.
While I was at it I bagged the first "wearing a Santa Claus hat" lead of the new route "Reticulated."
I'm kinda tickled. And a little confused: what am I going to do with the next 30 years of my life?
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Repeats?
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Congratulations Brad! A humongous endeavour.
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Well done Brad! Time for me to get out there and FA a few more sub-5.10s for you
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Repeats?
Hahahaha. I don't think so. But there are some FAs I want to do. And I've got about 20 5.10s and 20 5.11s still undone (I don't think I'll be able to do some of the harder 5.11s).
I'll be down there climbing still.
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Well done Brad! Time for me to get out there and FA a few more sub-5.10s for you
I wondered even yesterday whether we (I really) were going to have to tie Clink up with an extra lead rope - he kept trying to sneak off quietly and get another FA done.
Somehow the Karma Gods found out though, and he ended up with two big rocks in his pack (which he unfortunately found before we hiked down).
Now, with this weather, it might be awhile before any new routes go up ;D
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It was a good day and a lucky weather window.
J.C. got in two new leads in, including one that had frustrated him before (and he walked that one).
K.C. followed a reachy 5.9 in good style and with only a few grunts:
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7463/15838226628_639a228250_c.jpg)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7552/16024963202_faec4843b9_c.jpg)
Nelkins got in his first hand drilled bolt, done on lead, on stance, at Pinns:
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7495/15838222418_eb7bd58fde_c.jpg)
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8586/15839682549_f056ab1a71_c.jpg)
And Reticulated saw it's all important, first "wearing a Santa Claus hat" lead too:
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7544/15838371320_859bbc8d91_c.jpg)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7538/15839576629_810dca3187_c.jpg)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7498/15406009723_0d1b9f2f23_c.jpg)
If I get a little more grey in that beard, I could shove a pillow up under the jacket and really be Santa Claus:
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7483/15839597049_270ffaa766_c.jpg)
Clink laughed the most of any of us.
Tricia followed a fun 5.7 stemming pitch during which the length of hers legs grew by yet another inch ;)
And Gavin got in a much-needed bolt from a very awkward stance and he and I did another one from so hard a stemming stance that we had to tag-team through five different cycles before we got it done.
Now it can rain for a few days (not that it would change anything if I said it couldn't rain).
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And Gavin got in a much-needed bolt from a very awkward stance and he and I did another one from so hard a stemming stance that we had to tag-team through five different cycles before we got it done.
That is pushing limits! Nice!
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See.
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See.
Oh you are gonna be so busted if he sees this.
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I didn't know Gavin was a Pro-pho. The calendar is beautiful.
Someday Brad will be shaped like the quail and won't need a pillow rep Santa.
You guys and gals are the best, another fun, remarkable day!
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Santa gets a present
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4539/38302554194_20fec36fb2_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21mEAVq)
Starting up the last sub 5.10
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4537/24154501377_8ecac208a4_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/CNs8Ji)
Stylin’ in the chute
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4643/38302553884_4941078408_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21mEAQ5)
Exit moves for the win!
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4529/24154501187_7674954fc2_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/CNs8F2)
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Congratulations!
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I didn't know Gavin was a Pro-pho. The calendar is beautiful.
Seriously? He's very good; you should check out his web site.
Others here might want to contact him if they are interested in a 2015 calendar with many beautiful shots from Pinns.
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Congratulations!
Thanks man. It doesn't seem fair - I get a long-term goal done and you get a disease :o
BTW, Gavin still doesn't have a mug - I know you talked with him about that at the trail weekend, but we really should get one to him!
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He has an astounding mug.
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Yep, I will get one to him. The last run I think it took 6 to 9 Months to get one to you and Belizzi. I will try and beat that mark.
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Awesome day! I had a great time hanging out and climbing with you guys. Thanks again Clink and Brad for the bolting lesson.
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JC rolls Snake Eyes
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4572/38982683622_b369db9d23_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/22oLrGS)
Gavin drills a very awkward bolt
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4526/25147962058_27ed1d61ac_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/EjeSYJ)
Noal drills his first Pinns bolt
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4542/24154713317_e7538a478b_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/CNtdJr)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4596/27241339949_9c78f6ecb4_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/HvdZhZ)
Clink said I did 10a moves to avoid the 5.9
Technically this was a coveted 2nd ascent - Reticulated redux :)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4521/38302824844_f6db0eb0ea_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21mFZnN)
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I gotta remember to email K.C. the full size version of her on Reticulated. She can use it to show the people she works with that yes, she really is crazy :D
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Looks like a great day! Thank you for fixing the X rating. Although I am disappointed that I could not participate in the fun, I would not want anyone to lead under the original conditions.
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Great photo of you on Reticulated J.C.
Aaron, your original "X" rated lead of that route reminds me of my friend Jim up here. Jim's done a lot of FAs on the Sonora Pass Highway. Several of these he's done free solo (on granite mind you). It's quite a concept: on site, free solo first ascents, some up to 5.10a. But Jim seems to get into this "zone" in which he is absolutely immune to thoughts of danger. I've seen him in this zone too, on occasion, when he is leading. It's unreal.
Your original lead of Reticulated wasn't free solo, but it seems to me that you were in that same zone. Balls to the wall as they say. Glad you pulled it off, but I'll bet you wouldn't want to repeat it!
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I do not really want to be associated with is free solos or anything close. The only thing I can say is I was not willing to commit to that Gavin stance on the second bolt and thought I saw another stance up higher. One stance led to another and I am suddenly in XXX territory on Pinnacles rock. So I ask you, what do you do? I do the only thing I can think of in my tiny world, find a stance and drill! The problem was that I obliviously did not drill deep enough to avoid a spinner.
Zones are hard to delineate when you are on the the lunatic fringe.
I did not want anyone to have to repeat the route in its current format. This is why I am very appreciative for everyone's help on correcting my mistake. Thank you! I hope others will climb the route and enjoy without the physiological terror of the FA.
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Yeah, it was a good day (a week ago now!), and Reticulated was fun... Definitely worth the bolting effort.
Here it is a week later, and it was another great day with Brad, clink, JC, and KC, with two new lines - Pit Viper (5.10d) and Sidewinder (5.6) - completed with style. I'll wait to say more until KC and JC post some photos.
Happy Holidays, everyone!
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Happy Holidays Gavin!
I finally made the trek up there today. Thx to JC and the other JC for a great day.
Warmed up on the 5.6 and then got talked into leading Hood of the Cobra.
The 5.6 was good and will shape up nicely with more ascents.
Hood of the Cobra is worth a bunch of stars with very little cleaning of the looseness. It was a little flushed with stuff from recent rains, but that will clean out.
By then the temps were up so we ate and drank and headed for shade on some new stuff, to make sure Brad has reasons to keep coming back to Pinnacles.
JC, no the other JC, dropped in two more bolts on a project that is forming up nicely.
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Here's Gavin on the first lead of the first crux of Pit Viper (Kathy Cook took the shot; it's cropped and the contrast is lightened). Truly a fantastic effort:
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7512/15906975209_e0e5a324a9_b.jpg)
And me downclimbing to rest from one of the strangest stances I've drilled from in a while:
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7499/15906979089_e784dfed59_b.jpg)
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By then the temps were up so we ate and drank and headed for shade on some new stuff, to make sure Brad has reasons to keep coming back to Pinnacles.
Plenty of exploring to be done. Is it winter?
Munge, that chute you were eyeing looks like a good one. Nice day guys.
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wow, nice line.
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wow, nice line.
Yeah. It's 70 feet of really, really good climbing, although in every photo we've taken of it, it's dramatically foreshortened and looks shorter.
And you'd love climbing it. In my written description I use the phrase "intense stemming." I think you'd call it three out of three stars.
And then you'd call it 5.9+ :P
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And then you'd call it 5.9+ Tongue
Strombagging, like sandbagging but worse.
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Yeah, intense stemming pretty much covered Pit Viper. The moves right at the top are pretty in your face on lead, too. As I was belaying clink up through the final moves, he muttered "fudgecicles and brownies!" and I don't think he was focused on a sweet tooth!
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Thought I should repost this since it may have been overlooked.
For some reason the thumbnail isn't showing - just a box with an X. click on that X and the video should play.
Rob on Hood of the Cobra
(http://i1057.photobucket.com/albums/t395/JCwKCredux/MVI_3868%20rotated_zpsax6aeprt.mp4) (http://i1057.photobucket.com/albums/t395/JCwKCredux/MVI_3868%20rotated_zpsax6aeprt.mp4)
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Thought I should repost this since it may have been overlooked.
For some reason the thumbnail isn't showing - just a box with an X. click on that X and the video should play.
Rob on Hood of the Cobra
(http://i1057.photobucket.com/albums/t395/JCwKCredux/MVI_3868%20rotated_zpsax6aeprt.mp4) (http://i1057.photobucket.com/albums/t395/JCwKCredux/MVI_3868%20rotated_zpsax6aeprt.mp4)
I notice that you shut off the video as soon as he shouted "awesome."
;D
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I clicked on the slashed zero and it took me to a video that worked.
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As of the end of 2014 I've done 897 Pinnacles routes in good style.
I expect to get two more done on New Years Day (I haven't redpointed Pit Viper yet, and I suspect others will finish an FA near it at The Northeast Frontier on New Years Day - I'll likely be able to do a second ascent right after it's finished).
It is my hope that I can then do my 900th Pinnacles route on January 10, 2015. It's a Saturday. Weather allowing. Other prerequisites including that I am still alive, not injured, and that I am able to walk, climb and drill. It'll be a first ascent. I'd really like to share this ascent with as many of my friends as possible. Both Muds, Munge, Clink, J.C. and K.C., Gavin, Waldo, Nelkins, F4, Squiddo, Mucci, Cobbledick, Lasher, Jim and everyone else who posts here (and anyone that doesn't). It sounds goofy in a way - but I'd really, really value your company, all and any of you who can make it.
If the weather doesn't allow on that day, then the day after or the following Saturday, January 17th.
I've already picked out the line. It's in the High Peaks. It looks like it will go at 5.6 (so everyone - including my daughter Tricia, and a wounded-but-getting-there Mr. Mud - can do it). It's about 80 feet high and on good rock. There are good established routes nearby and several more nice first ascents waiting :)
On December 27th we put in the first three lead bolts and a summit anchor (class four from the back). Here are J.C. and I on top:
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7490/16149472011_3bfdd91542_c.jpg)
And drilling the anchor:
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8574/16151467695_fb04c55ea0_c.jpg)
Noal joined us too:
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7578/15964152480_2d7dfc041b_c.jpg)
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As my Dad would say, Doesn't that blow your hat in the crick.
Will see if we can make it.
:thumbup:
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As my Dad would say, Doesn't that blow your hat in the crick.
Will see if we can make it.
:thumbup:
I sure hope you (both) can.
By the way, Vicki suggested the name of the route: Nine Hundred for the Lead.
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Those pics are incredible! What a treat!! I think my face just cracked from smiling :)
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Those pics are incredible! What a treat!! I think my face just cracked from smiling :)
Tricia took those.
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Vicki suggested the name of the route: Nine Hundred for the Lead.
Good choice.
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Nice looking day out and thanks for consideration and in fairness- the honor. I'll see what I can do and make it..,twist my arm!
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Might make it Brad. Hope you do not mind. Jeff
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Might make it Brad. Hope you do not mind. Jeff
Mind? I'd be honored.
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Count me in! Cool photos. I like the silhouettes.
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Might make it Brad. Hope you do not mind. Jeff
How did you like The Inn Crowd?
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I might need help stocking the 900 water balloons the day before.
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I might need help...
Yep.
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Yep.
Hmmmm maybe too busy to climb after all :-)
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Did not get a chance my partner had to run errands for his aging mother and friend's college son took a cute girl snowmobiling. I always get beat out by the woman. Maybe Friday!
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Did not get a chance my partner had to run errands for his aging mother and friend's college son took a cute girl snowmobiling. I always get beat out by the woman. Maybe Friday!
We did it today with the Brosseau Finish - I recommend that over the regular finish if you get to it before the closures. Rosie onsighted both pitches and topped out for a nap - then Kat swung through to onsight the Brosseau. Kat onsighted p1 on 1-1-14, p2 regular on 1-11-14 and now the alternate $$$ pitch on the last day of 2014. It was a sweet ending to a fine year :)
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Hit 899 yesterday. Clink was right, I got there faster than I expected and now can't do any more new routes at Pinns until the FA scheduled for the 10th :D :D
So today, Cooks and I are going to finally put those rappel stations/bolts in on the Machete descent. I think that there is overwhelming consensus in favor of doing this. We'll use stainless steel, six piece, long 3/8" with stainless Fixe ring hangers (it's damp enough back there that chain would - I think - rust too quickly).
And then rebolting tomorrow - we're going to rebolt the first FA I did at Pinns, on Knuckle Ridge. I can't wait to revisit that 24 year old route; I suspect that the bolts are pretty decrepit. Cooks will get in some new routes too.
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Cool stuff Brad thanks again for the service BTW. Man, that Knuckle ridge area does feel remote. Love the experience.
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Man, that Knuckle ridge area does feel remote. Love the experience.
Dennis did some of his very best stuff out there - bold sh#t.
Any chance you've got the day off tomorrow to join us?
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Yep indeed, I briefly considered leading a 10b but then logic and small testees got the better of me. I enjoyed the one pitch (!) I did that entire day- think it was Flue Fire. Yes one pitch was much hiking.......
Thanks very much and had planned to climb but the trails have my attention tomorrow, Santa Cruz single track calls....
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Say Brad if out at Knuckle ridge, maybe add a bolt or 2 to those other routes out there.
I remember Mr Mub saying more bolts were needed.
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Say Brad if out at Knuckle ridge, maybe add a bolt or 2 to those other routes out there.
I remember Mr Mub saying more bolts were needed.
Uh huh, 'cause I can just picture Dennis wanting bolts added to his routes.
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It's ok, just make sure the hangers are pink.
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I think I have to approve anything Pink, or with lace.
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So,
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Dude, I'll take two.
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Haute haute haute!
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Clink is that from your collection....?
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F4, you might like these
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I would look super hot in those on Wet Kiss
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Only on a first ascent.
"Haute Route"
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Of course
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Speaking of first ascents, after yesterday I think I'm now in "I haven't done them all status?" That'll last for a while too.
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We will let you catch up again at !,000. >:D
Fantastic gems in the rough, raw form. Right under our noses.
Good work by everybody, JC is a prize stance stallion, if only we could betting revenue$$$.
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We will let you catch up again at !,000. >:D
Fantastic gems in the rough, raw form. Right under our noses.
Good work by everybody, JC is a prize stance stallion, if only we could betting revenue$$$.
I don't think 1,000 is ever going to happen. I'm too old and tired.
Your comment about J.C. and his runaway stance drilling reminds me somehow of Tobin Sorenson in John Long's story "The Green Arch." Without the screaming fall (and let's keep it that way :D ).
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Brad, now that you have broken 900, well not quite but this is a given. You kind of have to go for 1,000. It is only 100 routes and 5 or so of those will happen quickly. You can take your time, but you kind of have to do this.
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agreed.
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Well, the motion has a second. On top of that I know we have a quorum. So it looks like this mission is green.
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The honest truth is that with friends like all of you, I'll keep climbing at Pinns until I can't climb any more. We'll see where that gets me ;)
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!!!!
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Is this where the "DIE" context comes from?
;D
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something like that.
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just saw this...sounds like a party...
who is going from Santa Cruz? wondering if I bike down there, if I could coordinate and send my harness, shoes, gear, beer up w someone and throw my bike in the car/truck for a ride back? or whether someone can take my car, fully loaded?
also, wondering how to find everyone, once I'm there....
feliz año nuevo...
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Joe, harass Chrizzoni into going.
IIRC, 8;30ish trailhead.
Head toward High Peaks from West Side.
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Joe, harass Chrizzoni into going.
IIRC, 8;30ish trailhead.
Head toward High Peaks from West Side.
Piglet? Lol
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naturally
mmmm, bacon
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Brad said near Tuff Dome, isn't that more easily approached from the East side? biking to the east is more viable....
asked Chris before I knew about this event, he said surfs up and he's not feeling the crud, I'll try him again...
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That poor Chriz guy. All mixed up with conflicted priorities. I will pray for his soul. :)
Haven't done the mileages but West Side parking is what I heard.
PS - anyone climbing Sunday want to work on FAs?
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also, wondering how to find everyone, once I'm there....
Yell "free gear".
Call me if you want a shuttle gear to/ride back.
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if doing piglet, don't jump my new route....
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Which one F4?
If you give me clear directions to it, with pics, I'll be sure to know what to "avoid."
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My line is right there too. Sow er Grapes.
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oh, that's good!
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Feels weird, have to get up early tomorrow in order to go climbing.
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Feels weird, have to get up early tomorrow in order to go climbing.
I'm really glad you're doing it!
And don't forget to bring an extra mug for Gavin (I assume that some are left?). Hike it up there since he'll come from, and return to, the East Side.
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The National Weather Service thinks that tomorrow is going to be a good day at Pinns. This is the prediction with their location pipper right on the High Peaks:
Saturday - Mostly sunny, with a high near 67. Light south wind.
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Early congratulations to Brad on the milestone. I will not be there tomorrow, but Mud carries the weight for both of us.
I've put the case of remaining mugs in his car. One has Gavin's name on it. Munge, since you guys are carpooling, can you remind him to make sure the case goes with him whichever vehicle you go in? You know, sometimes, he can be a little absent minded. (He just walked by and saw what I was typing and protested, "you don't need to tell him to remind me. Geepers. No faith." Oh... that reminded me... "Hey, honey, did you pack your climbing shoes? Yeah? Both of them?")
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Roger that.
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"Hey, honey, did you pack your climbing shoes? Yeah? Both of them?")
surprisingly enough yes. They even matched.
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surprisingly enough yes. They even matched.
Mudworm must have put L & R on them and then tied them together.
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how did you know?
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For those of us who don't live locally, Pinnacles season usually starts with the cooler temperatures of autumn. Over the last few years this has coincided nicely with the Climber Appreciation/Trails Work weekend.
Since that weekend is now upon us, my 2015/2016 Pinnacles season starts tomorrow!
Among many parts of the season I'm looking forward to, a big highlight is the people. There are climbing friends who I just don't see enough, except at Pinnacles during this season. Nelkins, are you reading this? How about you Gavin? I hope to see Bob this weekend. Crux, will you be visiting our great park much these coming months? It seems like I never see Mr. Mud anymore, except at Pinnacles. Yep, I'm really looking forward to hanging with my "mud" friends this year (I think that the only "season" I look forward to more than Pinnacles season is "PCT" season).
To start 2015/2016, I'll update my "statistics:"
- At present I'm at 914 Pinnacles routes climbed in good style.
- There are now two routes "easier than 5.10" that I have not yet done (both are new routes, one's 5.8 and the other 5.6). I expect that I'll climb both of these this coming Sunday, and thus get "back in status" of having climbed every route at Pinns easier than 5.10.
I've got lots of other stuff to do to too. The "schedule" includes leading several 5.10s and 5.11s that I haven't yet done (usually the ones I haven't yet done are either hard or scary - or both). Another high priority this season is working over the guidebook maps. I'm hoping to edit/tweak/improve these enough that they are completely ready to go if/when we decide (in a few years) to do a second edition of the book.
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I'm reading it! Looking forward to seeing you too. May this Pinns season be as good as the last. :guitar: Where's the 5.6 and is Bob gonna show up?
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The 5.6 I haven't done is Welcome Respite out at Knuckle Ridge.
And amen to this season being as good as last season was!
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Sunday!! (she says while picking cobwebs out of her gear)
I love what you said about the faces and the climbs - or something along those sentimental lines.
It gave me a slideshow of my favorite combos.
Congratulations on collecting a few decades worth.
Hope to see you sooner than later. 8)
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The mornings just started staying cool in the salinas valley the past week or so, guess that's the sign it's time to climb local again :)
Took a friend out last Wednesday who had never climbed at pinnacles before and had a hankering to check out costanoan.
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll39/mjellis42/D5AAC191-D2C2-4B48-B463-26AB36F36067_zpsnvjol2ux.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/mjellis42/media/D5AAC191-D2C2-4B48-B463-26AB36F36067_zpsnvjol2ux.jpg.html)
Hope to get back out a week from Monday and get over to feather canyon.
Chances are this will be a short season for me, child #3 is due to arrive mid-December, and will herald the end of my climbing for the season (but not my climbing career).
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Don't worry about the cobwebs, Crux. Heck, I was so "Pinnacles rusty" before this last weekend that I actually had to steer my car on the way down (normally it's so used to the drive that I just kick back and it takes me there).
MJ, nice to see that you're getting out too. A new kid is an acceptable and fantastic reason for not having a long season. According to the weather prognosticators, you may have planned the birth date well - "Hell Nino" might force a short season on all of us (it certainly happened in '97/'98). If you've got any pull on the birth date, mine's December 22, which is pretty close to mid-December (and that's worked out pretty well for me!).
Thanks to Dave, Nolan, Noal and the fabulous Cooks, I got in three new leads after our trail work last weekend. So I'm back "in status" of having done everything easier than 5.10 (until someone puts up something new).
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So I'm back "in status" of having done everything easier than 5.10 (until someone puts up something new).
We're here for ya buddy. We'll get through this dry spell with nothing to climb! Just hang in there.
As we speak Mud Meisters are standing by, ready to deploy.
Though, maybe not me. I'm up this weekend on SPH. If you're around, give a shout. I might be able to belay a couple pitches.
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Oh I've got plenty to climb at Pinns still. There are at least a dozen 5.10s that I haven't done and that many or more 5.11s that I can do but haven't yet. Gavin especially has volunteered to "rope gun" routes like Verdict so that I've got a chance of redpointing them.
But I do appreciate your selflessness (and that of others too).
And about this weekend: Nolan Lamb and I are going out to the Missing Man Formation tomorrow (it's in the South Fork canyon). Nolan was a classmate of Luc's and one of his best friends. He's wanted to put up some new routes there in Luc's honor. There's a chance that Cassey and Serene may join us. We'd love to have your company; you knew Luc and you should do an FA there.
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Oh wow, yeah, I'm in!!
Sending you an email now.
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In status? Haha! The new fund raiser is selling location info of routes to Brad. >:D
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In status? Haha! The new fund raiser is selling location info of routes to Brad. >:D
And doing so would make you a what?
It won't work. I'd rather skip over that/those routes. Nice try though.
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;D
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I'm back "in status" of having done everything easier than 5.10 (until someone puts up something new).
Congrats!
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Congrats!
Thanks.
Speaking of "faces and names," one of my big and serious Pinns goals for this season is to climb more than one measly day at Pinns with Mr. Mud.
I'll likely be able to get back down there on the weekend of November 14/15, Mud. Any chance you and I could get some routes in?
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I will have to see. There is a good chance that I will be in Wa the week of the 11th and possibly the week after. One of those weeks might get pushed out to December. If I was around that weekend it might only be for that Sunday. Will let you know as I find out more.
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I will have to see. There is a good chance that I will be in Wa the week of the 11th and possibly the week after. One of those weeks might get pushed out to December. If I was around that weekend it might only be for that Sunday. Will let you know as I find out more.
Do what you can do.
If that doesn't work, then how about this instead:
I'm planning on climbing at Pinns for most of the last ten days of December (weather allowing). If I was to break say, your nose in about mid-December (with your cooperation of course), you could call in sick at work for a few days and then go climbing with me. You don't use your nose for climbing do you ("your nose," not "The Nose")?
Anyway, do what you can and we'll find some days ;D
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You can break The Nose, I am ok with that. Not so much up for the nose being broken. I think I should be available for some of those days. Not sure how good of a partner I will be, I am fairly solid 2nd class at the moment.
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If I broke The Nose, the whole climbing world would hate me. If I break your nose, well….
OK, we'll find some days (and it'll be my treat on the Geritol).
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If I broke The Nose, the whole climbing world would hate me.
This would change what? : )
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This would change what? : )
E.S.A.D.
(but L.O.L.).
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8)
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MJ, nice to see that you're getting out too. A new kid is an acceptable and fantastic reason for not having a long season. According to the weather prognosticators, you may have planned the birth date well - "Hell Nino" might force a short season on all of us (it certainly happened in '97/'98). If you've got any pull on the birth date, mine's December 22, which is pretty close to mid-December (and that's worked out pretty well for me!).
Due date is 12/21... if I convince the wife to wait an extra day, do I get a route named after the boy?
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Due date is 12/21... if I convince the wife to wait an extra day, do I get a route named after the boy?
Sounds great! Will you insist on that extra day please? And then you and I can put up a route in his honor. But you'll have to name him Northwest Buttress, or South Face, or something like that :o
The thought isn't unprecedented by the way. Roger and I actually took a similar step up here. Two summers ago, the Yosemite climbing ranger and his wife were staying with Roger and Robin so as to be close the the local birthing center. As Roger was leaving to come up and climb with me, their two guests were rushing off to the hospital (she'd started labor).
We ended up establishing a wonderful 5.11a face climb that day (three stars for sure). Roger suggested that we name it in honor of the newly born little girl. So there it is: Elora Wren 5.11a ***
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Brad, now that you have broken 900, well not quite but this is a given. You kind of have to go for 1,000. It is only 100 routes and 5 or so of those will happen quickly. You can take your time, but you kind of have to do this.
I'm done now with a fantastic 2015/2016 Pinnacles season. Although it apparently snowed here at our house for an hour and a half yesterday, none of it stuck to the ground. The days are getting longer and the Sierra is right here. I've got to stop for a while.
As the season has come to an end, I've realized that my skepticism about Mr Mud's comment (quoted above) might have been misplaced. Very misplaced. Lots of things could happen, but I now think it is likely that I will eventually reach a lifetime total of 1,000 Pinnacles routes done in good style. It's hard to believe.
In fact, Mud's comment that "5 of those will happen quickly" seems highly ironic at this point. I don't think any of us saw coming this new route "renaissance" we've been in. So many Pinnacles climbers have been putting up so many new routes (and having so much fun doing it)! And the combinations of climbers who've been working together! Very, very few of the first ascentionists who have been the most active in the last two years have not done an FA with each of the other first ascentionists who've been most active during that time. Many others haven't been highly active on first ascents, but have joined with more experienced climbers for a taste of the excitement and (ground up) adventure.
It's also interesting to me that, even with a large number of routes going up, the proportion of them that are of low, medium and high quality is about the same as the proportion in the 2007 guidebook. Discovery and exploration continue. Whole new formations and sub-areas now have routes. There are several climbers out there each of whom has a really "good eye for a line."
So with a touch of sadness that I won't be down there for a while but with anticipation of more seasons to come, here are my current statistics:
- I've done 952 Pinnacles routes in good style (defined as a redpoint or better lead unless the route only exists as a toprope);
- As of late yesterday (and thanks to J.C. for spending the day with me) I'm back into the status of having done every single route at Pinnaces that is easier than 5.10. I suspect that, with wet weather coming in, this status might last as long as two weeks this time 8)
- The 2015/2016 season was the first Pinnacles season in 32 in which every Pinnacles route I climbed that was new to me was not in any guidebook!
I now hope to see all of you up here for some granite climbing soon (yes, even you berserk fanatics who climb at Pinnacles year round).
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Nice wrap up.
signed,
the screaming banshee ;D :-\ :-[ >:( :D
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My granite season is almost done. Time for Pinns!!! ;)
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Nacho libre por supuesto.
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My granite season is almost done. Time for Pinns!!! ;)
I'll be talking to Tim today about an intervention.
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signed,
the screaming banshee ;D :-\ :-[ >:( :D
That wasn't so much a scream as it was a long, sustained, high-pitched grunt :o
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Did JC have to make an improvised loin cloth out of the rope bag and a sling to hike out in?
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Congratulations on the quality year.
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Did JC have to make an improvised loin cloth out of the rope bag and a sling to hike out in?
We don't carry rope bags - I think I may have one stored in the garage - with my chalk bag ;D :D ;D
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Nacho libre por supuesto.
Nicht verstehen ::)
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That wasn't so much a scream as it was a long, sustained, high-pitched grunt
chimney sounds?
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chimney sounds?
Yes, squeeze chimney sounds. He did a great job. Other sounds from just after that lead included:
- "I'm going to kill them," and
- (In a snide, irritated, imitating tone of voice) "You can't fall out of a squeeze chimney."
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Bwahaha :devildevil:
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"You can't fall out of a squeeze chimney."
this is true
The good thing is it goes left side in
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I'm a left side in man myself.
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Poor alignment? Sorry dude.
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JC
You really need to check out Bushwhacking Dave and Beasto
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JC
You really need to check out Bushwhacking Dave and Beasto
or not
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Feel the love
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JC
You really need to check out Bushwhacking Dave and Beasto
Yeah. As soon as you've done every other route in the park, check these two out.
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Burp!
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Brad, now that you have broken 900, well not quite but this is a given. You kind of have to go for 1,000. It is only 100 routes and 5 or so of those will happen quickly. You can take your time, but you kind of have to do this.
In January, 2015 I did my 900th route at Pinnacles (the first ascent of "Nine Hundred for the Lead"). It was a nice route, a great day, and a fantastic crowd of people.
Around the time of that ascent, Clink posted on this thread:
"We will let you catch up again at 1,000.
Fantastic gems in the rough, raw form. Right under our noses.
Good work by everybody, JC is a prize stance stallion, if only we could betting revenue$$$."
To say the least I was skeptical about ever reaching a lifetime total of 1,000 routes at Pinnacles (done in good style). I posted:
"I don't think 1,000 is ever going to happen. I'm too old and tired."
There were only slightly more than 1,000 routes at Pinnacles at that point in time. It had taken five years to get from 800 to 900 routes. And I couldn't imagine the amount of effort (and time!) it would take to add another 100 routes to my total.
Still, speculation can be fun. Dennis commented (in the quote box above):
"Brad, now that you have broken 900, well not quite but this is a given. You kind of have to go for 1,000. It is only 100 routes and 5 or so of those will happen quickly. You can take your time, but you kind of have to do this."
Munge and others agreed. It seemed funny to even talk about the subject. But I also saw no reason to stop climbing at Pinnacles (I just didn't think there's be enough routes and enough time to reach that "magic" number).
Man was I wrong. New routes continue to go up (and old, unreported lines are still being found).
Last Sunday I put in a long day of climbing with Squiddo (and others). I reached a lifetime total of 999 Pinnacles routes. I'm ready to do route number 1,000 (it'll be another first ascent - the intended name is "A Grand Adventure").
This coming Friday (February 24th) several of us are going to start the route. We'll start one or two other first ascents nearby too. All of these intended routes should be pretty easy (my guess is three new 65 foot high routes in the 5.4 to 5.6 range).
We're hoping to finish A Grand Adventure (and other routes) on Saturday (February 25th). The idea is to do another mass ascent (the first ascent list for Nine Hundred for the Lead included 23 people).
Everyone is welcome. The intended routes are out past the reservoir, about a 45 minute hike from East Side parking. There are large, grassy flat areas and a beautiful creek very near the base of the formation.
We'll try to gather in the East Side parking lot at 8:30, and hike in from there. Bring a rope or some gear and food and water. Bring a rain shell too - the current prediction is for showers in the afternoon (if that changes for the worse we won't climb Saturday and will change to either the next day - Sunday, February 26th - or to the next dry weekend day after that).
Here's hoping that I can stay healthy until then and that the weather gives us the break we need.
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With the increase in rain, is the approach at risk of getting flooded out?
"a beautiful creek"
I'll be there. If we have 23 people again, that will be something. Maybe I need to bring 2 bottles to celebrate with?
There's a limousine company called Le Grand Limousine in Santa Clara. Do we need to ride in style? ;)
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With the increase in rain, is the approach at risk of getting flooded out?
"a beautiful creek"
I'll be there. If we have 23 people again, that will be something. Maybe I need to bring 2 bottles to celebrate with?
Shouldn't be a problem.
Bring your pool noodle just in case.
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Sigh, Mr Mud was in the running to break 1000, but he lost his focus.
I kept saying, every weekend, 3 , 3 new routes a day, over 5 years.
And then he moves to Washington.
I am in the contention for the most repeats of the same routes over 30 years.
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Maybe I need to bring 2 bottles to celebrate with?
And maybe that stretcher we talked about. Whatever that stuff was, it wasn't bad tasting. But man was it strong....
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I am in the contention for the most repeats of the same routes over 30 years.
I'm afraid you'll have to settle for second place. Gavin has done routes like Verdict hundreds of times (it's 1/4 mile from his house!).
I'm curious though - which three routes have you done the most times, and (ballpark) how many times have you done each route?
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The day we met Brad, slightly more than 5 years ago (2-17-12)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4521/38982879482_50b3ed0a82_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/22oMrVL)
Brad and waldo on 900 for the Lead
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4546/25148116008_01e5cbfe55_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/EjfEK3)
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great pic
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Gavin has done routes like Verdict hundreds
Maybe I could bribe Gavin to give me the beta to sending Verdict!
Gavin, what's it going to take? Jelly Donuts? Guinness? Licorice? Bird feed? :) ;)
***assuming on your day off and no "bribes" in official capacities.
on topic, will this weather link suffice for 4casting?
http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lon=-121.19154217875238&lat=36.471428417922496#.WK0iQYWcGRs
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on topic, will this weather link suffice for 4casting?
http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lon=-121.19154217875238&lat=36.471428417922496#.WK0iQYWcGRs
Gavin sent me this one
http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=36.47075&lon=-121.147278#.WK0yhm8rLIX
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copy that.
"Saturday
A slight chance of rain. Partly sunny, with a high near 55."
watching
watching
watching
no change yet.
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Records and numbers are fun. Those of us whose numbers don’t involve “13s” or “14s” (or even “12s”) can do impressive things with determination and skill. Here are a few other Pinnacles climbing records that I admire:
- Gavin for the most ascents of any one route (hundreds of ascents each as to several different routes that I know of);
- J.C. for (by far) the highest number of routes done at Pinnacles compared to amount of time climbed there (same too for highest number of first ascents compared to time climbing there);
- K.C. is, I'm pretty sure, the woman with the most routes done at Pinnacles “in good style” (in good style means led in redpoint or better style except as to routes that only exist as topropes and those done with no hangs or falls). She’s probably got this record by a large margin too. She’s also the woman involved in the most first ascents at Pinns (again, by a large margin)
- David Harden and Bruce Hildenbrand for the longest time span between Pinnacles first ascents. From memory, Harden’s first at Pinns was in 1974, Hildenbrand’s in 1975; both did FAs there in 2016 (Waldo is right in the running on this one too);
- Brian Hamilton (most of you know him) is the only person I’ve ever heard of who’s done more climbing routes at Pinnacle that are not in a guidebook than he has routes that are in a guidebook (and he’s up around 80 total routes done at the park);
- David Rubine for the highest number of “stars” attached to routes in which he was a first ascent author (still true to this day - Clint put together a little program in the late 1990s that showed this to be true and I’m pretty sure it still is);
- Jim McConachie for the most number of first ascents with relatives (at least one FA there with each of four brothers). Clink could close in on or beat this; to my memory he’s done first ascents with two of his daughters, leaving room to move past Jim;
- Dennis “The Mud” has been a part of more first ascents of routes 5.10 and harder than anyone else in Pinnacles history (he may have spent more time than anyone else hanging on hooks there too).
I also tried to think of who might have the most stars compared to the number of first ascents they’ve participated in (excluding one-offs where someone participated in one or even just a very few highly starred routes). I have not come up with an answer to this one.
Also, who has taken (and survived - this part is critical) the longest fall at Pinns? I think I may have witnessed it (at the Yaks Wall in around 2004). This 45 to 60 foot fall could have been a lot longer if Ubergoober hadn't literally caught and slammed the falling climber against the wall at the belay ledge, thus cutting the fall length in half (there was no pro between the leader and the belay when he fell). Since this "enviable" record might be considered a little embarrassing, I'll leave names off.
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The day we met Brad, slightly more than 5 years ago (2-17-12)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4521/38982879482_50b3ed0a82_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/22oMrVL)
Masterful Photoshop work J.C. The hole in the knee of my pants looks just like it was there in the original photo.
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copy that.
"Saturday
A slight chance of rain. Partly sunny, with a high near 55."
watching
watching
watching
no change yet.
I'm watching too. I think we're going to get away with it though ;D ;D
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Masterful Photoshop work J.C. The hole in the knee of my pants looks just like it was there in the original photo.
Nice try. I couldn't photoshop that even if I wanted to.
That must have been during your arboreal Pinnacles phase Brad.
Actually for those interested - Brad and Mucci were working on rebolting Arch Up the Center.
Here's Mucci
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4688/39022150312_844004006f_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/22sfHM3)
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I'm watching too. I think we're going to get away with it though ;D ;D
Jinx! :nono: :eeeek: :crazy: :prrr:
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Millennium Falcon
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Millennium Falcon
The 70's called.
They want their name back.
Let's grow mullets dude - I don't want to go full-on hippie with a pony tail :lol:
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"Partly Sunny" its on
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"Partly Sunny" its on
Mungie - you have to grow a mullet with me and clink! :lol:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4586/25186499108_12108aa8f4_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/EnDoGC)
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I talked to the NPS administrators, they said it will be "Mullet Day". ;)
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God. I don't feel well....
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God. I don't feel well....
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4582/38171726295_6cf28f92dd_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21a75kZ)
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Well, as long as I already went there - how bout some more mullet shots (plus dig the fanny pack and ankh necklace) :lol:
JC in Santa Clara before the Utopia Redux show 1992
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4641/27276189029_d1cefb3b72_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/HyiAHc)
Why does he always look pissed off? This is for Matt. In Akron to see Rundgren's Individualist tour - 1995
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4556/24191842987_1b2fe7dd52_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/CRKw6a)
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You know, I didn't really believe you had an actual mullet in your youth until seeing these photos.
I assume you've seen some of the photos I have of Munge with long hair? It's been so long that I can't really imagine him with long hair any more.
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And for God sake, having the bravery, the absolute courage to post photos like that of yourself. One can start to understand where you get the guts to do run-out stance bolting....
;D :P ::)
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Off the heezy...
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2026/2405905913_25b82a214c_o.jpg)
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Off the heezy...
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2026/2405905913_25b82a214c_o.jpg)
Reed's Pinnacle, Mullet. Munge wins, mic drop, & crying commences.
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I will be there on Saturday. See you at the parking lot.
Mark
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Reed's Pinnacle, Mullet. Munge wins, mic drop, & crying commences.
Yes but I still have a pair of those 5.10 shoes and amazingly they are not dry rotted.
I even did some of my early Pinns leads in them but sadly without a mullet :smilewinkgrin:
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I bet NOAL had a mullet - c'mon NOAL... :yesnod: :thumbup: :lol: and just for you dude :puke:
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Yes but I still have a pair of those 5.10 shoes and amazingly they are not dry rotted.
Only your feet?
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Jim and I are about to leave (he's just finishing breakfast).
He suggested two more records he'd like to see tallied up:
- Who's done the most total vertical feet of first ascents at Pinnacles (that one sounds interesting); and
- Who's placed the most bolts on lead at Pinns (short-changes the re-bolters to some degree, in my opinion).
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rebolting is a separate category
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also, break down lead bolts by
from hook
from stance
from other type of aid
from dependent slung knob
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^ how the heck could someone remember all of that stuff? Don't tell me you keep a list somewhere. Lists..... :out:
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^ how the heck could someone remember all of that stuff? Don't tell me you keep a list somewhere. Lists..... :out:
Right? Brad, cough cough
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No lists!!! This ain't McCarthy Red Scare! ;)
But if I see my lead bolts, I usually remember whether I had to actually hang off the hook, as opposed to just using it as a back up. The terror seems to inscribe itself on my dendrites.
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My jockey and I will be there. Which East Side parking lot? And I apologize in advance for being a bit selfish with helping hump gear out, but most of my load limit's already accounted for.
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Saturday
Partly sunny, with a high near 55.
Still on.
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With Noal on this on this. Look what happened to baseball stats. "He was the first lefty, peppermint gum chewing, breach birth, shortstop with less than 2 weeks of stubble, to double with a 12 mile/hr NW wind, and to hit a 420 plus footer out of this park, bouncing twice then ricocheting off a Ford, breaking the windshield of the opposing teams bus."
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Still way on and now the possible rain is moved to the night. Sweet! Not going to miss this!
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Mullet sighting???
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2026/2405905913_25b82a214c_o.jpg)
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F4 you need to catch up buddy.
You going or not?
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Thank goodness KC told me about this little soiree.
No one in their right mind would wade thru this crud to find the worthwhile nugget.
::)
See you in da AM!
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Seems like a tomorrow might be the Mud n Crud event of the year. I'd love to join. Is there anyone who I can catch a ride with from Santa Cruz?
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Seems like a tomorrow might be the Mud n Crud event of the year. I'd love to join. Is there anyone who I can catch a ride with from Santa Cruz?
Sorry Atom - we have a full vehicle.
We got a lot done today.
The route I worked on today needs one more bolt. I'll get on that first thing and it should be ready in less than an hour.
Brad's is ready to go.
I wouldn't be surprised if we get a few more lines going.
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Fair point Brad, Gavin has to have the record. Seeing how he has the shortest commute.
I'd be tempted were I to get a ride.
Adam, ask Joe if you can ride on his handle bars.
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Seems like a tomorrow might be the Mud n Crud event of the year. I'd love to join. Is there anyone who I can catch a ride with from Santa Cruz?
I'll be passing Santa Cruz on my way, and would be happy to give you a ride. But, full disclosure, I have to be home by 4, so I'll be leaving the fun around 1:30.
Edit: I emailed you my cell number.
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Some of us are mullet impaired. Even so, I'll be there.
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My jockey and I will be there. Which East Side parking lot? And I apologize in advance for being a bit selfish with helping hump gear out, but most of my load limit's already accounted for.
Shane - the uppermost lot which will probably be full by 8:30.
If anyone misses the group, the crag is about 100 yards past the cutoff for The Hand.
There is a confluence of streams just before you start up toward Knuckle Ridge - stay left toward Spasm Block.
The water was way up today. Trail past the res is flooded but easy to skirt up and around on social trails.
hasta manana...
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Some of us are mullet impaired. Even so, I'll be there.
Sweet. We were hoping you'd be coming out.
Geezer Pleezer went from a wish to a reality today :lol: :thumbup: :biggrin:
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That was quite a day yesterday (actually the last 2 days).
My right calf is so tight today from stancing one-legged for 3 bolts that I am hobbling around.
At least it waited a day to get painful.
I'm a bit put out that it only sprinkled .02 over night and now it's sunny!
Looks like another good day to be out there.
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Yeah, I saw sun and blue skies here and thought, dayum I coulda had another good day out there.
Oh well, twas a fun time. I managed to climb 4 'routes' and 1 'scramble' - pretty good for an FA day. :)
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Here's some pics from Friday - getting the routes ready for the big celebration.
No walk past the reservoir is complete without a tribute to BirdBrain Pinnacle :lol:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4537/38171963485_4482729205_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21a8hRt)
JC contemplates the final section of Geezer Pleezer free solo
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4524/39022455062_b2ab9f4001_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/22shhnm)
Brad got started on A Grand Adventure with Jim, Bill and Dave
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4585/27276552709_9b847a071c_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/HyksPx)
Kat and I got started on Celebration Slab
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4549/38343104874_d0ba8666cb_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21qfre5)
Dave working on bolt 4 of A Grand Adventure
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4591/38343240034_dc4ef992fd_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21qg8pq)
Kat got some cool shots of Brad working on Celebration Slab
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4525/38343239594_6ba1ced981_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21qg8gQ)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4525/24192303097_e0ef221f3d_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/CRMSS6)
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Brad, I solve the mystery of the bolt-Calvin says he placed it as a prank while free soling your line back in '78, and gave me this pic of him hanging out on the east side of the summit block as proof:
(http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab1/HSKillometer/AirBrush_20170226120040_zpsb4wflesx.jpg)
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Yeah, I saw sun and blue skies here and thought, dayum I coulda had another good day out there.
Oh well, twas a fun time. I managed to climb 4 'routes' and 1 'scramble' - pretty good for an FA day. :)
The forecast was once again, misleading and inaccurate. Being a meteorologist must be a frustrating job.
Watch the movie The Weatherman with Nicolas Cage - It's wind...it blows everywhere :lol:
I feel especially bad for those that traveled far.
Bottom line it was a great day. :thumbup: :thumbup: :yesnod: :smile5: :biggrin: :smilewinkgrin:
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Congratulations Brad!!!!
1,000 route Club - That is damn Awesome.
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Here's a few choice shots from the big day.
Whitney leading Celebration Slab
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4526/27276712489_eb701d6ccb_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Hymhjn)
My turn in the conga line climbing up to join the Grand Master of Mud :yesnod: :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4555/27276712139_3964850af6_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Hymhdk)
The coveted 2nd ascent of A Grand Adventure. Brad was leading Celebration Slab while I led this.
Brad - was that 1001 or did you Pleeze your inner Geezer 1st?
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4732/27276711929_925f78748e_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Hymh9H)
And in a most appropriate finish - Father and Daughter leave the summit of A Grand Adventure - nice! :thumbup: :thumbup:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4564/27276712339_8d93c06f85_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/HymhgM)
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Brad, I solve the mystery of the bolt-Calvin says he placed it as a prank while free soling your line back in '78, and gave me this pic of him hanging out on the east side of the summit block as proof:
(http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab1/HSKillometer/AirBrush_20170226120040_zpsb4wflesx.jpg)
Hey Calvin, nice one! You would have gotten a kick hearing Brad's reaction when I spotted your old bolt (sounded like he was adding some new grey hairs). Well placed and solid except for the age (like many of us old geezers &#128522;).
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The coveted 2nd ascent of A Grand Adventure. Brad was leading Celebration Slab while I led this.
Brad - was that 1001 or did you Pleeze your inner Geezer 1st?
After I got down I ran up Junction Boulder - Summit Route with Rob, did Geezer Pleezer, and then the Excursion kids belayed me on Celebration Slab while you were leading A Grand Adventure.
I'm now three routes into my second thousand ::)
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Congratulations Brad!!!!
1,000 route Club - That is damn Awesome.
Thanks Dennis! And thanks for trying to make it down, I understand that quick flights there and back don't always work out.
I'd have added you and Katie to the crew if there was any way I could have done it; you two not being there was the only, only downer in a fantastic day (even the weather cooperated).
I got an email this morning from a Pinnacles regular congratulating me on having survived 1,000 routes. That's an interesting point. But I have, I've survived those routes and I've survived all the driving to get there too ;D
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I would have done it but in checking the calendar this Friday was patch night and we had a half dozen upgrade/maintenance tasks scheduled. I have been here all weekend. I did manage to get a couple of times but it has been a busy weekend
Congratulations again, amazing accomplishment.
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Great crew and fun climbing everyone, sweet the sun came out for a couple afternoon hours.
Brad, a lot of work that !,000 represents! Congratulations!
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Without question it was the people who made the day. The (eventual) sunshine helped, as did the gorgeous creek and wide open staging area.
But the friends, the daughter, my wife :)
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I just started working on the photos in my camera. I took a few shots, but Tricia took over 300!
These include a dozen or so photos of each of the first 13 people to climb A Grand Adventure. I'll definitely be posting up some of these (once they're ready).
Meanwhile, anyone have any suggestions for an efficient way for all of us to email exchange some of our best shots?
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I think we can create a photo album on the site if you want to host them there.
Let me check with my developer. : )
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... an efficient way for all of us to email exchange some of our best shots?
LOL, oh Brad.
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I just started working on the photos in my camera. I took a few shots, but Tricia took over 300!
These include a dozen or so photos of each of the first 13 people to climb A Grand Adventure. I'll definitely be posting up some of these (once they're ready).
Meanwhile, anyone have any suggestions for an efficient way for all of us to email exchange some of our best shots?
LOL, oh Brad.
I think we can create a photo album on the site if you want to host them there.
Let me check with my developer. : )
I'll take what is behind door number 3 please :lol: :yesnod: :lol:
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LOL, oh Brad.
I must be feeling the effects of that bottled 100 octane stuff you brought....
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Brad - was that 1001 or did you Pleeze your inner Geezer 1st?
After I got down I ran up Junction Boulder - Summit Route with Rob, did Geezer Pleezer, and then the Excursion kids belayed me on Celebration Slab while you were leading A Grand Adventure.
I'm now three routes into my second thousand ::)
I can't believe you didn't do BirdBrain for number 1001.
You coulda done a backflip off it afterwards.
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I can't believe you didn't do BirdBrain for number 1001.
That would have been 1000.1
You coulda done a backflip off it afterwards.
How do you spell tetanus?
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Friday, A Grand Adventure is started - Jim Drilling the second bolt:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2853/32981893292_9413deed01_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/541/33138636775_bcf796a06b_c.jpg)
Meanwhile, 200 feet upstream, John and Kathy start Celebration Slab:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/591/32293494244_6afe454f5f_c.jpg)
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Great pics.
Dennis - I think Brad should be the Grand Master now :thumbup: :yesnod: :biggrin:
He definitely ain't no millennial :lol:
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Congratulations Brad!!!
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Congratulations Brad!!!
Thanks Factor.
On Saturday I led the route fairly early in the morning (so as to leave time for the rest of the first ascent party/mob to climb it too).
Here's some shot's Tricia took (what the hell am I doing in that first shot?):
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/714/33097528756_527de41637_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/319/32982433562_8fc962ce75_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2616/32982455952_c9ca61681c_c.jpg)
Jim, Dave, and Bill followed next (Jim was kind enough to bring my shoes up to me!):
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/697/33011169021_601b54cbeb_c.jpg)
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3936/33011155331_db47d78894_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/585/33011204641_67f99c3949_c.jpg)
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Dennis - I think Brad should be the Grand Master now :thumbup: :yesnod: :biggrin:
He definitely ain't no millennial :lol:
Millennial? OMFG, not me!
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Millennial? OMFG, not me!j
lol lol
Congrats Brad.
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lol lol
Congrats Brad.
And thanks for the phone message Squiddo. You made the clearly correct decision (although we missed you!).
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Tricia got this excellent shot of climberdude:
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3821/33014896691_38ee5cc22a_c.jpg)
And good photos of Cruxluv making moves and then warming her hands:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/535/33014904801_6d505dcf97_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/577/33014906691_2b4d4f8e85_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2560/33014910451_56efcb1b15_c.jpg)
Aaron walked up it:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2865/33014911591_194fd6d011_c.jpg)
King got a lap in:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/347/33014913081_3e40f34833_c.jpg)
Imagine this: here's a photo of Caitlyn, a student at U.C.S.C., the oldest daughter of long friends of our family. Caitlyn had never climbed at Pinnacles before (and hasn't climbed much at all yet). So as part of her first Pinnacles climb she's part of a first ascent:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2761/33100667476_2f991288c5_c.jpg)
And, on the opposite side of that spectrum, here's Alex, daughter of a Pinnacles legend (and doing pretty damn well there on her own too):
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/670/33142387845_bf62b12fcd_c.jpg)
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And thanks for the phone message Squiddo. You made the clearly correct decision (although we missed you!).
Yes but still bummed to miss!
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My business partner Scott tries to convince us that he can't climb. But every once in a while he tosses that fib aside and busts out some moves:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/415/33100888766_583471df17_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2840/33100897396_4907fb77e0_c.jpg)
Here's a woman who practically lives on mud:
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3949/33100898626_a133d25d55_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2547/32296797804_47026e50d9_c.jpg)
I thought that I had patented the "grimace while climbing" look myself. Here's Rob stealing it from me:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/387/33142619975_e570a7d794_c.jpg)
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3950/33142621305_aa05628868_c.jpg)
Noal may have saved my ass yesterday - he made extra sandwiches and sent one up to me to scarf while belaying. Damn good sandwich, Noal, thanks again:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/569/33015185211_726e06accb_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/440/33015185691_b3d0026ab9_c.jpg)
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Rob, you forgot your slippers??
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Rob, you forgot your slippers??
Man, you've got a quick eye. Yeah, both he and J.C. followed in approach shoes :o
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Man, you've got a quick eye. Yeah, both he and J.C. followed in approach shoes :o
The Kid did too. It was a mistake for me. I enjoyed it much more in climbing shoes when I led it. :yesnod: :smilewinkgrin:
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Had them slippers. Even used them on some 60 foot? 'scramble' that had 5th class climbing on it, but that won't ever be recorded anywhere. Oh wait, Steve might have video of me cruxing out!
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I was squinting.
Grimacing requires being purple and even more pear shaped.
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So far NOAL has the best form :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin:
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Next Brian came up, bringing my hat and down jacket (the wind had come up by now and I was actually shivering):
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/733/32985963082_95a30cca3c_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2385/32985964032_61223ccea7_c.jpg)
Everyone's favorite, Waldo himself. He topped out with a huge smile and a handshake for me:
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3790/32985976032_bc9be51366_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/435/32985976902_0b943e6625_c.jpg)
Although the "looks easy from here" contingent was a big hit with the crowd due to two-year old Calvin, Calvin's dad was a huge hit with me for bringing up that said sandwich that Noal had so kindly donated (and then belaying for a few while I ate):
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3675/32986007622_e7a0f22a8b_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/404/32986014492_6313349f54_c.jpg)
Whitney was next:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/558/33101201576_4fc4abd964_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/579/32297021344_b97ba5b51e_c.jpg)
And then Tricia took a break. My camera's next shots are by Vicki, of Tricia following last (is it just me or do her legs seem to go on forever?):
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3879/33015469681_401a82d4d5_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2888/33015470531_83c0894253_c.jpg)
Once the climb was done several of us shared shots of this evil and powerful concoction that Rob brought (and admit it - none of you knew that Solo cups came in shot size before these photos did you?);
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3839/33015473291_8c78a9ebd7_c.jpg)
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3754/33015472201_b52f48191c_c.jpg)
And, to bring the event to a suitable and ridiculous conclusion, decorations were placed and photos taken:
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3688/33142863025_bc5bcbd601_c.jpg)
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So far NOAL has the best form :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin:
No way - one of my first moves on lead was a nose-plant (or some such). It can't get any better than that....
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Sweet. We were hoping you'd be coming out.
Geezer Pleezer went from a wish to a reality today :lol: :thumbup: :biggrin:
The geezer is pleased!
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a nose-plant
You stuck your nose into a plant? Camouflage?
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Millennial? OMFG, not me!
WHAT?!!! Who changed this!!!!
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WHAT?!!! Who changed this!!!!
I think I know, but I'm not telling. And thank goodness he/she/it did. Me a "millennial?"
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(http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab1/HSKillometer/IMG_8847_zpspwmvghfe.jpg)
(http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab1/HSKillometer/IMG_8870_zps9cemlemu.jpg)
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Without a doubt - best shot!
xoxo
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oooh, that is a good one!
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That is a great shot of waldo. :thumbup: :thumbup:
No way - one of my first moves on lead was a nose-plant (or some such). It can't get any better than that....
Brad - invalid without pictures :yesnod: :lol: :smilewinkgrin:
That shot of you most of the way up is good though.
Did you do the Oh What a Feeling jump at the summit?
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Brad - invalid without pictures :yesnod: :lol: :smilewinkgrin:
The first shot of me that I posted shows my nose almost in the rock....
Did you do the Oh What a Feeling jump at the summit?
No. I distinctly recall clipping the anchor and just saying "wow."
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Congrats and well done Brad!!!! Looks like a fantastic day surrounded by some even better company. Wish I could have made it out there.
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Here's some shot's Tricia took (what the hell am I doing in that first shot?):
The first shot of me that I posted shows my nose almost in the rock....
No. I distinctly recall clipping the anchor and just saying "wow."
That is so weird - I think I may have somehow missed that post because I don't remember that second pic of you looking so gripped :lol: :yesnod: :yikes: :big grin:
I can't believe you didn't say Wham or BOOM! :lol:
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well well, looks like I'm catching up. In winter 2008 I had done 228 different climbs in 'perfect style'.
How many have I done since then? Hell if I know. I'd be willing to bet I flipped 250 at least.
Been 'on' over 302 different climbs back in 2008. which means my ratio of sending to failing is not so great.
But I'm only a mere 772 away!!
LOL
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I can't believe you didn't say Wham or BOOM! :lol:
Onomatopoeia Pinnacle baby!!
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well well, looks like I'm catching up. In winter 2008 I had done 228 different climbs in 'perfect style'.
How many have I done since then? Hell if I know. I'd be willing to bet I flipped 250 at least.
Been 'on' over 302 different climbs back in 2008. which means my ratio of sending to failing is not so great.
But I'm only a mere 772 away!!
LOL
That's a good success to fail ratio. And I'm glad that this weekend's event rekindled your interest in keeping track (or seems to have anyway).
And the good news? With fewer than 100 new routes done per year, you too can hit 1,000 by the time you're 56 years old ;D
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so yer saying there's a chance! :o
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so yer saying there's a chance! :o
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4563/39023235072_23d9ff37fb_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/22smheN)
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lol, JC picked up on it. ha
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Cultural attaches are supposed to either make references in a way that us mere mortals can understand, or explain (at least eventually).
So, reference please? (Someone.)
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Movie reference...
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Rob, there is hope. It's simple math to break 1,000.
Say you visit pins 40 weeks out of the year. Each trip is 3 days (I'd camp to save beer transit time). 10 new routes each visit. That's 400 in a year. Do for 2years and you have 1,000.
Now what does that do to your car? Well for me it's. 200 round trip. So 40 visits at 200 miles a trip is about 8,000 miles a year.
See its Simple!
Now I just need a excel listing of routes. Note the open ones and then sort by area. That gives a hit list.
After 25 something years, I can barely remember what I have climbed, let alone where my car keys are.
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Munge , don't forget to purchase a rather large rabbit's foot.
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Rob, there is hope. It's simple math to break 1,000.
Say you visit pins 40 weeks out of the year. Each trip is 3 days (I'd camp to save beer transit time). 10 new routes each visit. That's 400 in a year. Do for 2 years and you have 1,000.
Now what does that do to your car? Well for me it's. 200 round trip. So 40 visits at 200 miles a trip is about 8,000 miles a year.
See its Simple!
Now I just need a excel listing of routes. Note the open ones and then sort by area. That gives a hit list.
The excel sheet is under the useful links sticky.
You may want to break down the costs as well.
camping fees.
gas
depreciation of your vehicle + extra maintenance costs
now start a go fund me page :yesnod: :lol:
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I like that silver rope I toted down from the top. Anybody know what kind it was?
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I like that silver rope I toted down from the top. Anybody know what kind it was?
Waldo, That may have been King's. I will ask him.
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Don't forget to include the beer in that budget. :o
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Don't forget to include the beer in that budget. :o
Never, never do that!
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Don't forget to include the beer in that budget. :o
I didn't include food or drinks since you'd be consuming those regardless :biggrin:
Something else to consider is that most people wouldn't be able to handle 40 weekends a year at Pinns considering the supposed season only runs from October to April. That gives you 28 weeks with no accounting for inclement weather.
Now double down with the impact of the closures on many of the routes that will be on the hit list. :out: :crazy: :prrr:
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Basically this is not an easy thing to do and may take 30 seasons after all?
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Basically this is not an easy thing to do and may take 30 seasons after all?
I have been at it 5 years and am not even halfway there.
Of course I keep getting sidetracked by working on new routes and rebolting as I do the old ones.
If I was just climbing I would be way farther along by now.
But who's counting? :lol: :yesnod: :thumbup: :crazy: :out: :ihih:
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I have been at it 5 years and am not even halfway there.
Of course I keep getting sidetracked by working on new routes and rebolting as I do the old ones.
If I was just climbing I would be way farther along by now.
But who's counting? :lol: :yesnod: :thumbup: :crazy: :out: :ihih:
I can't believe you guys are talking about total numbers of routes done at Pinnacles. Would you all get lives please :P ::)
And BTW, as all of you know, it gets harder and harder to keep the number growing as every new route done goes off the list and the list of undone routes gets shorter and shorter.
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I can't believe you guys are talking about total numbers of routes done at Pinnacles. Would you all get lives please :P ::)
And BTW, as all of you know, it gets harder and harder to keep the number growing as every new route done goes off the list and the list of undone routes gets shorter and shorter.
Something like the Law of Diminishing Returns :lol:
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can't believe you guys are talking about total numbers of routes done at Pinnacles. Would you all get lives please
And BTW, as all of you know, it gets harder and harder to keep the number growing as every new route done goes off the list and the list of undone routes gets shorter and shorter.
That was my point. Sure you could rack up 1,000 routes fast.....IF that was all you did Friday>>Sunday for 2 years.
No easy feat.
Which then supports what an amazing feat it is what Brad has done.
Now Mungie HAS racked up a respectable list of routes done/ lead at least that was a few years ago when I had a glance at his guide book.....Mr. Mud, even MORE, yet he doesn't even let on to how many.
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That was my point. Sure you could rack up 1,000 routes fast.....IF that was all you did Friday>>Sunday for 2 years.
No easy feat.
Which then supports what an amazing feat it is what Brad has done.
Now Mungie HAS racked up a respectable list of routes done/ lead at least that was a few years ago when I had a glance at his guide book.....Mr. Mud, even MORE, yet he doesn't even let on to how many.
What about me and clink? :idea:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4693/24192838187_5f70b51618.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/CRQBVM)
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Speak Truth To Power!
JC, you gotta be past me in totals by now! For sure in number of FAs.
Clink, you too?
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Nah, I detest climbed rock.
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Nah, I detest climbed rock.
Maybe it's just too Harry for you :lol:
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JC, you gotta be past me in totals by now! For sure in number of FAs.
J.C. what's your route total now? It's gotta be right at 400? And don't play coy. We know you keep track of the numbers because you find it fun (as do I).
Spit it out....
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What about me and clink?
Mr Mud literally lived at the Pinns for the past 20yrs,mabe 30, heck maybe he was born and raised there (it could explain the beard).
I'm sure you 2x have your share of routes.
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Maybe it's just too Harry for you :lol:
Who's Harry?
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Who's Harry?
My next door neighbor.
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Who's Harry?
Damn - another book reader.
Does anybody get it besides mungie?
It's really no fun when you have to explain a joke. :frown2: :crazy: :prrr:
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J.C. what's your route total now? It's gotta be right at 400? And don't play coy. We know you keep track of the numbers because you find it fun (as do I).
Spit it out....
It took me over a year to get my first 100 (Young Generations) and all I was doing was climbing.
10 months later I was doing my first FA (S Curve #174).
2 months after that I started my rebolting apprenticeship with Bruce and Clint.
2 months after that I was at 200 (Snake Charmer) and 5 of those last 100 were FA's.
It took me until February of 2016 to get to 300 (Cracklin' Rosie). I'd been at it for 5 years and 7 weeks.
Now a little more than a year later I'm about to click over again.
I'm thinking about doing an FA to mark that one since the last 2 have been FA's (not intentionally).
I don't have a goal but I know I won't get to 1000 - at least not at Pinns - maybe a lifetime total for all areas combined.
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I don't have a goal but I know I won't get to 1000
Methuselah is said to have lived 969 years
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Methuselah is said to have lived 969 years
They asked and I answered.
I thought showing how long it takes might be illuminating. :idea:
If I hadn't gotten into FA's and rebolting...
At this point I want to mix it up more - alternating between FA's and climbing the old routes - rebolting them if needed as I go.
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If I hadn't gotten into FA's and rebolting...
At this point I want to mix it up more - alternating between FA's and climbing the old routes - rebolting them if needed as I go.
But you did get into FAs and into rebolting. I don't think that's hurt your Pinnacles career at all. In fact it's a great mix.
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But you did get into FAs and into rebolting. I don't think that's hurt your Pinnacles career at all. In fact it's a great mix.
I agree. FA's and rebolting are some of my best days.
It slowed things to a crawl as far as climbing new routes but I don't regret one minute of it.
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(http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab1/HSKillometer/www.GIFCreator.me_TvCahk_zpsbfm53hoa.gif)
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That's cool Shane.
Too bad MJ wasn't there with his GoPro - he did one of me and Kat on Stretch Seven that is really cool.
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Thanks. It makes me a little more seasick to watch more than twice in a row than I'd like, but it was the best I could do with a series of pics that I didn't take with the idea of making them into a movie in mind. :D
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Nice!
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Munge, I think you broke a hold on Bathing Beauty. The beginning of Mud Diamond is a step ladder for 10 feet.
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Nope.
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So many holds, so little time.
Caleb, Nicole, Colton and Layton brought a group of 4-H youngsters and parents out to Crud and Mud for a first time climbing outing. Kat, Rachel, Ryan and my grandson Johnny, drove in with me to join in the fun. The 4-H group went all in for the climbing, both kids and parents on 4 of the routes.
Rachel went up Here's Mud in Your Eye with a little prodding from Kat, and got a congratulatory fist bump from her old buddy JC(Traffic Cone) when we dropped Kat off.
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On the hike in, as we were passing No holds Bared on of the Dads asked me "Are you a Pro Climber?" I replied "No, I only look like one, but i am a Pro burger and pasta consumer."
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On the hike in, as we were passing No holds Bared on of the Dads asked me "Are you a Pro Climber?" I replied "No, I only look like one, but i am a Pro burger and pasta consumer."
I guess I must be a Tecate pro.
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I guess I must be a Tecate pro.
Definitely!
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Nope.
Mungie,
We saw EXACTLY where you broke the hold yesterday when we were at Mud Diamond.
The hold was a step over left from the two bomber holds clink stood on to drill the first bolt.
Those two solid holds he stood on to drill are only about a foot apart.
I could see why one might bridge over left to shift weight and get better balance.
You definitely stepped onto untested territory.
How is the elbow?
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Elbow is good. I think you'd be surprised which hold blew out. If you guys were off left, yeah. I was directly in line with the bolt, and was reaching up to the box shaped flat topped jug.
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Elbow is good. I think you'd be surprised which hold blew out. If you guys were off left, yeah. I was directly in line with the bolt, and was reaching up to the box shaped flat topped jug.
Glad your elbow is better :thumbup:
I definitely saw the hold that broke. I recognized it from the pic you sent me. There was another one broken very near it too and a little lower. We went up starting a couple feet to the right of that and gently trended left. After the first bolt it goes significantly left, then up. The route definitely wanders a fair amount.
I broke a sizable knob off Mud Bath on the second ascent. It smacked Kat in the leg pretty hard. Not sure if it had been used prior since there are so many features but it may have been pre-weakened by repeated use. It was between bolts 3 and 4 so it saw a lot of action between Brad and clink on Saturday. Good route with a bouldery start that is in your face right off the ground.
Kat says we need to start taking one weekend a month to just climb so we will undoubtedly be visiting the crag a lot. We climbed Squeaky again while Brad and Jon were finishing Mud Bath. I always find it very pleasing. There is a little lesser quality rock up high and the angle drops off - otherwise it would be 3 stars. Same with Here's Mud in Your Eye - it is so much fun you'll want to repeat it too. :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin:
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As of yesterday (and today) I'm back "in status." For the fourth time I've reached a point where I've done every route at Pinnacles easier than 5.10.
Now this renewed claim rests on one assumption, one conversation with Mr Mud. I called him today, suspecting that he and Noal had finished their route yesterday. They did finish it. Obviously I haven't done it, it's too new. So I asked Dennis "how hard?" And he bit, he said "5.9 or 5.10a." That sealed it; by even mentioning the possibility that the route might be 10a, Dennis pretty much confirmed that it isn't 5.9 (anyone who isn't named Dennis - or Noal - disagree?). ;)
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5.7 or 5.10d but probably not 5.9.
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Well Mr Mud only has 5 fingers on each hand. So the hardest he can rate is 5.10 since he can't count any higher. I prefer 5.9. Why over rate something.
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Brad, did you climb Up the Buttress? Has anyone done a second ascent? If not somebody go do it and report back. It is fun.
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My routes go to 11!
It would be nice to get some kind of feedback on Up the Buttress. The bottom is probably 10a, maybe 10b. The upper part off of the ledge is probably 5.9. The upper part is kind of cool, steep balance moves with good feet follow the line up the buttress. The lower part is a bit junky but has fun moves.
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We got to the parking lot around between 7 and 7:30 in the morning. Spent the entire day out there then hiked out in the dark. Beautiful day out there.
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climb Up the Buttress
One of the better names.
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The route is a slab. The name is Pet Rock Syndrome. This came about from me petting the rock to get it to shed some if its lichen in order to get a better hold of it. 8 bolts or something, neither of us kept track of the bolt count. Either Noal or both of us, most likely Noal, will go back and add anchor chains. The route is about 120 feet.
As of yesterday (and today) I'm back "in status." For the fourth time I've reached a point where I've done every route at Pinnacles easier than 5.10.
Now this renewed claim rests on one assumption, one conversation with Mr Mud. I called him today, suspecting that he and Noal had finished their route yesterday. They did finish it. Obviously I haven't done it, it's too new. So I asked Dennis "how hard?" And he bit, he said "5.9 or 5.10a." That sealed it; by even mentioning the possibility that the route might be 10a, Dennis pretty much confirmed that it isn't 5.9 (anyone who isn't named Dennis - or Noal - disagree?). ;)
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It would be nice to get some kind of feedback on Up the Buttress. The bottom is probably 10a, maybe 10b. The upper part off of the ledge is probably 5.9. The upper part is kind of cool, steep balance moves with good feet follow the line up the buttress. The lower part is a bit junky but has fun moves.
Sounds nice, see he makes it sound like it's 5.7....
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It goes up the slab. Not a very good picture, starts where the lower part of the tree limbs come to the base of the slab. Tops out on the ledge and goes to the top. Will see if I happen to have a better pick. I took this one in 2015.
(http://www.mudncrud.com/MudGallery/_data/i/upload/2015/12/21/20151221195110-afecd308-me.jpg)
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Sounds nice, see he makes it sound like it's 5.7....
solid 5.7
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I'll repeat, add bolts with Pink Hangers to the scary parts.
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awesome
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The route is a slab. The name is Pet Rock Syndrome.
Ch Ch Ch Chia Pet :lol:
Did you guys ever finish Piggyback Relay Race? :arf:
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(http://i1070.photobucket.com/albums/u496/noalelkins/20170319_100647_zps829mp3ns.jpg)
Pet Rock Syndrome
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Noal,
Nice photo. Could you please email it to me at home so I can take it to the field when I go look for/climb the route.
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Will do.
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Ch Ch Ch Chia Pet :lol:
Did you guys ever finish Piggyback Relay Race? :arf:
Nope.
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The camera looks tilted.
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yeah, I think he tilted the camera up...
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yeah, I think he tilted the camera up...
;D ;D
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The camera looks tilted.
Where do you see the camera?
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Pet Rock Syndrome... That's a fun looking line.
Noal: if you'd like help banging in the anchors, let me know. While in the area I'd be interested in leading Up The Buttress too, and maybe checking out the harder line you guys put in nearby.
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I recommend long slings for all of these routes. At least for a few of the clips.
We will probably be up there tomorrow but the slab will probably be wet, it seems to take a bit longer to dry out. Most likely not a really early start since tonight is patch night and I will be working late.
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Good to know about the slings.
I'm working tomorrow morning... But I'll see if I can get the afternoon off to come find you guys. If not I'll try to schedule a time with one or both of you to head out there again.
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Good to know about the slings.
I'm working tomorrow morning... But I'll see if I can get the afternoon off to come find you guys. If not I'll try to schedule a time with one or both of you to head out there again.
Hey, both of you, you're off topic - go jack one of J.C.'s threads >:D
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PPPHHHBRRRtttttttttttttewsssssssssss
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Good to know about the slings.
I'm working tomorrow morning... But I'll see if I can get the afternoon off to come find you guys. If not I'll try to schedule a time with one or both of you to head out there again.
Hook up with Noal. I most likely will not be around to much. A chance I will be done in a couple of weeks but my stuff is always up in the air.
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Sure thing Gavin. Just ping me when you are free. There is enough stuff in that area now to get in a decent day of climbing. All in the 10a-11a range.
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Sure thing Gavin. Just ping me when you are free. There is enough stuff in that area now to get in a decent day of climbing. All in the 10a-11a range.
All right, since three of you are directionally challenged (you don't take DIRECTIONS from your obvious superiors), I'll jump in on subject, making these posts somewhat relevant to the thread:
Don't forget to include me in on these plans; I'd like to climb these routes, but more critically I need to document them in general (descriptions and the like). Gavin and I are already looking at plans for at least two days in May on them. It might be helpful too if Noal could join us, or go out a day with me in May, to help me find them and get accurate details.
And PPPHHHBRRRtttttttttttttewsssssssssss to you too.
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I recommend long slings for all of these routes. At least for a few of the clips.
We will probably be up there tomorrow but the slab will probably be wet, it seems to take a bit longer to dry out. Most likely not a really early start since tonight is patch night and I will be working late.
They are calling for up to half an inch of rain overnight at Pinns.
It is not raining at Pinns yet but it is steadily coming down here on the coast.
You're all wet.
I also can't believe Brad said he made plans for May. The "season" will be over by then.
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I also can't believe Brad said he made plans for May. The "season" will be over by then.
Season lengths vary.
Although I'll probably get a week of climbing in May at Red Rocks and the Owens River Gorge, anything higher in elevation will likely be snowed in still. Or, on our pass, the roads to it will still be washed out. Even climbing in Yosemite Valley will be inconvenient with Highway 120 wiped out by slides (and no projected opening date yet).
So, I might as well get in some time on Pinnacles crags that stay shady and cool, right? No-one could call me crazy for doing the drive this May?
EDIT:
And don't forget that the month of May starts the day after the Rendezvous. So if I stay over a day or two afterward, I'm climbing at Pinns in May.
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You're all wet.
Not necessarily. Some things do not get wet or dry quickly.
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The "season" will be over by then.
So, you're saying we're climbing on granite cracks in the Valley? I'm in!
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So, you're saying we're climbing on granite cracks in the Valley? I'm in!
Well, like actual B.A.P.s, you'll be deciding on the drive up - go to Twain Harte or go to the Valley. It's twice the drive from here to there now (via Highways 49 and 140 through Mariposa), and there won't be an easy shuttle between the two again for a long while.
* B.A.P. is Bay Area Puke; even though you're not one, you'll face similar decisions this summer while you drive to your home up here.
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Not necessarily. Some things do not get wet or dry quickly.
Very optimistic my friend.
I'll remember that while I am sleeping inn tomorrow morning and enjoying a big hot breakfast :lol:
This Afternoon Rain likely, mainly between 2pm and 5pm, then showers after 5pm. High near 63. South wind 13 to 16 mph, with gusts as high as 21 mph. Chance of precipitation is 80%. New precipitation amounts between a tenth and quarter of an inch possible.
Tonight Showers, mainly before 8pm. Low around 44. South southeast wind 5 to 14 mph becoming north northwest after midnight. Chance of precipitation is 90%. New precipitation amounts between a quarter and half of an inch possible.
Saturday Partly sunny, with a high near 63. North northwest wind 10 to 13 mph.
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Wow, glad to see those inoculations are working against BAP syndrome! :)
Yeah, already started thinking about how I'm going to have to go 140 on Fridays via 152 if I'm thinking about the Valley. Bivi lot time. The good news is a lot of other folks are probably thinking the same and might avoid the Valley too.
Tomorrow might be a ski day with that kind of forecast.
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This Afternoon Rain likely, mainly between 2pm and 5pm, then showers after 5pm. High near 63. South wind 13 to 16 mph, with gusts as high as 21 mph. Chance of precipitation is 80%. New precipitation amounts between a tenth and quarter of an inch possible.
Tonight Showers, mainly before 8pm. Low around 44. South southeast wind 5 to 14 mph becoming north northwest after midnight. Chance of precipitation is 90%. New precipitation amounts between a quarter and half of an inch possible.
Saturday Partly sunny, with a high near 63. North northwest wind 10 to 13 mph.
I am fully aware of that. I know how to check the weather forecast too. As you can see we are both using the internet. :prrr:
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I recommend a hot bath to start any day.
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Oh yeah!!!! Do tell more Clink.
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Oh yeah!!!! Do tell more Clink.
Oh for sh#t sake, do not encourage him [insert barfy icon which I cannot find but which you guys use all the time].
:puke:
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I am fully aware of that. I know how to check the weather forecast too. As you can see we are both using the internet. :prrr:
:lol: :lol: :lol:
I recommend a hot bath to start any day.
I recommend a Mud Bath :thumbup: :biggrin:
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Oh for sh#t sake, do not encourage him [insert barfy icon which I cannot find but which you guys use all the time].
You have to wait for it to hurl. :puke:
Geez - you would think from all the posting today that we all just sit around posting on forums all day long :lol:
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Sure thing Gavin. Just ping me when you are free. There is enough stuff in that area now to get in a decent day of climbing. All in the 10a-11a range.
Sounds good, Noal. I'll send you emails for the Shades area and for Voyeur. My folks are in town this coming week, but I think the following week and beyond should be looking more open.
(Gotta do my part here to keep derailing Brad's thread. ;) )
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Can I claim 30yrs as well? it was about 30yrs when I hiked the condor trail.
Clink, do tell more about the merits of daily bathing....and sausage.
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Clink, do tell more about the merits of daily bathing....and sausage.
F4, you are the saltiness of the earth.
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???
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Well, it's January 1st. I led both pitches of Lava Falls as my first-ever multi-pitch lead 34 years ago today.
And now, in 2019, I updated my climbing log like I do every New Year's day.
I'm up to 1,090 routes at Pinnacles in good style (and still having fun). If I make it to 1,100 Pinnacles routes, I do not intend a "mass ascent" as with 800, 900 and 1,000. Those were fantastics days, true highlights of my climbing "career." But 1,000 seemed like a real accomplishment and any "hundreds" above that don't seem that big.
So, for the rest of this season: hit 1,100 routes in our beloved park and, once again, reach a point where I've done every route there easier than 5.10 (there are two such that I haven't done as of this minute).
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4843/44741996270_80f60daa41_b.jpg)
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Show Off! :thumbup: :biggrin: :lol: :lol: :lol:
I told a guy once I didn't want to toot my own horn.
He told me I should! :biggrin: :yesnod: :arf:
Nicely done. :thumbup:
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Show Off! :thumbup: :biggrin: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Probably true. But what use are these logs and notes and all that unless I do something with them? Obviously my daughters are just going to chuck them when I move on to Valhalla.
And if there's ever a forum in which it's OK to post this way, I think this is it (and that's a compliment).
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But 1,000 seemed like a real accomplishment and any "hundreds" above that don't seem that big.
When you get to 1,500 we can wrap you in a shroud and toss you off. Please donate your body to the park. Future generations of climbers could register to take it out for First Ascents. So nostalgic for them, and your FA count would continue indefinitely!
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When you get to 1,500 we can wrap you in a shroud and toss you off. Please donate your body to the park. Future generations of climbers could register to take it out for First Ascents. So nostalgic for them, and your FA count would continue indefinitely!
With or without real, actual shorts?
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When you get to 1,500 we can wrap you in a shroud and toss you off. Please donate your body to the park. Future generations of climbers could register to take it out for First Ascents. So nostalgic for them, and your FA count would continue indefinitely!
The Pinnacle of Tourin.
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At what point does one....reclimb the same routes...Disco Wall and Muchshitty Ridge?
Keep it up Brad, at 1,500 I can loan you my Smith Rock guide....
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I dont get it... what are all these places that arent in Pinnacles or Yosemite?
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I dont get it... what are all these places that arent in Pinnacles or Yosemite?
First of all, "Yosemite," whatever that is, is irrelevant to this site. It's only on my list because I live so close to it.
As to the other "places that aren't Pinnacles?" One of them, Sonora Pass Highway is an exclusive reserve, the sole rock climbing property of me, Munge, J.C and K.C., and Briham and mt reynier. Over 1,600 climbs, mostly on granite, totally uncrowded, without law enforcement crawling around. And we've got the exclusive rights to all of it.
Ask really, really nicely and we might let you drive through and look at some of it (in season, of course) :P
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One of them, Sonora Pass Highway is an exclusive reserve, the sole rock climbing property of me, Munge, and J.C and K.C.
Um I think you're missing at least one someone there.
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Um I think you're missing at least one someone there.
I have no idea what you're talking about....
::) :-[
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Much better ;D
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True, Sonora pass is not s police state, where you can get tagged for sleeping you your car or a tree house.
Plus yosemite, it’s choss.
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There’s a tree house in Pinns? Sahweet!
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Why on Earth would I want to climb there if it isnt Pinnacles? I only go to the park that must not be named when Im DESPERATE
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Why on Earth would I want to climb there if it isnt Pinnacles?
Because the months of May - August exist.
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Got my lifetime route count at Pinnacles up to 1,101 today. I’m actually starting to like the place.
I’ll post details of multiple new FAs (by me and others) when I’m not on my phone.
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:thumbup: :thumbup:
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1,101
quite the number. Will only be surpassed by 1111
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1,101
quite the number. Will only be surpassed by 1111
11:11 looked like a world ender on Here and Now :lol:
Or maybe you just like binary :out: :arf:
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binary, bipolar whats the difference
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1,101
quite the number. Will only be surpassed by 1111
Since you are very, very dear to my heart, I feel compelled to observe that no, 1,101 will also be surpassed by 1,102, 1,103 and so on up the count :P
Actually, the hell with the literalist interpretation and just: thanks, I hope to get there soon.
And that name I'm waiting on from you and Noal?? Soon?
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A name for a route?
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A name for a route?
Yes. I'm working on the East Side text for the new edition and one of the "holes" in the document is a name for the route that you and Mud put up that Steve got clean on TR (left of Cutting the Rug).
Hoping that Piggyback Relay Race can be finished soon too so I can plug in it's final information.
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^^^
I asked Mud about it last Saturday and he was gong to talk to you about it (he thought you might have a better memory).
I haven't heard back and am not known for my patience, so my post could be called "nagging."
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Hoping that Piggyback Really Race can be finished soon too so I can plug in it's final information.
I think you mean Relay Race.
with warm regards,
The OCD team
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binary, bipolar whats the difference
The Bipolar Roller :lol:
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(left of Cutting the Rug).
Waltzing Mudtilda? :idea::lol:
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I dont think we ever gave that one a name. Needs to be red pointed and have anchor installed. I think I recall Steve saying the rating was 11b or so. Thoughts Mr. Mud?
Yes, it would be nice to finish the other route. When's the dead line? Should be around those parts this sunday but no Mr. Mud.
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Waltzing Mudtilda?
Good one but no more names with Mud. There's enough now @ crud and mud :D
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I think you mean Relay Race.
I did, and I fixed it (it's correct in the text).
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Good one but no more names with Mud. There's enough now @ crud and mud :D
Wango Tango? :thumbup: :yesnod: :lol:
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I dont think we ever gave that one a name. Needs to be red pointed and have anchor installed. I think I recall Steve saying the rating was 11b or so. Thoughts Mr. Mud?
Yes, it would be nice to finish the other route. When's the dead line? Should be around those parts this sunday but no Mr. Mud.
No deadline per se yet. But as you've seen, getting all the information together requires, well, getting all the information together. So I push and nag and I research stuff. Those are the only two "holes" in the text for the East Side that you and Mud are involved in. So, the sooner you can fill them, the better, from my perspective.
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Wango Tango? :thumbup: :yesnod: :lol:
Great names, but wrong thread. Get it straight or get a job.
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Did somebody climb Up The Buttress?
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Did somebody climb Up The Buttress?
The entire thing?
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Great names, but wrong thread. Get it straight or get a job.
No love for Uncle Ted. :crying:
Did somebody climb Up The Buttress?
Or some thing? :lol: :devildevil:
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Did somebody climb Up The Buttress?
No-one to my knowledge.
Gavin and I did all of your other routes out there and "keep meaning" to get back to that one. So much stuff to do, so little time ::)
Are you two really sure that you want that exact route name with your names as the FA party?
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I dont think we ever gave that one a name. Needs to be red pointed and have anchor installed. I think I recall Steve saying the rating was 11b or so. Thoughts Mr. Mud?
Yes, it would be nice to finish the other route. When's the dead line? Should be around those parts this sunday but no Mr. Mud.
I might be able to meet you down there Sunday. Will update as I know more. I am way out of shape but it would still be fun to climb.
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The entire thing?
And why in God's name would someone climb less than an entire route? The concept makes no sense.
Obviously if/when I/we get to it we'll do the whole thing (big cams and all).
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No-one to my knowledge.
Gavin and I did all of your other routes out there and "keep meaning" to get back to that one. So much stuff to do, so little time ::)
Are you two really sure that you want that exact route name with your names as the FA party?
Yes
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It has not been added to new route listings yet.
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It has not been added to new route listings yet.
Agreed. I usually try to climb a route before I add it so that I can get the description right.
My focus has been on the East Side almost exclusively this season (only non-East Side climbing this season was when I helped Gavin finish Full Circle). Next season will be all High Peaks. Including climbing and documenting that route.
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Its fun.
Yes. Mr. Mud let's go on Sunday.
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Its fun.
Yes. Mr. Mud let's go on Sunday.
They all are.
And occasionally I write up routes that I haven't been on. But I don't have enough info on that one to do the write-up yet.
As an example, if you guys work on Piggyback Relay Race, I've got what I think is a really good description of it, missing only the total number of lead bolts and the length (both missing for obvious reasons). Could you get me notes on both subjects when it's done please?
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They all are.
I suppose so. Each in their own special way.
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I suppose so. Each in their own special way.
Perfectly said.
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I thought I'd insert an opinion in here regarding the line left of Cutting The Rug, as I'm hoping to get the redpoint on that (when I can get a belayer to come out with me) and install the anchor.
I've climbed on it a few times, with and without Noal and Mud, and one aspect that stands out is that many of the holds are sharp and scraping on the fingers.
As such, and to keep with the name Cutting The Rug, I would propose Rug Burn for the name, or alternatively Rug Muncher.
Any thoughts?
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Rug Burn works
especially when thinking of other routes we put up
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one aspect that stands out is that many of the holds are sharp and scraping on the fingers.
Plus one for Rug Burn (not that I have any say in it) :redface:
Gavin's words bring to mind;
Razor Burn
Finger Lickin' Good
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That sounds good Gavin. Either name.
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Manscaping
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or alternatively Rug Muncher.
Any thoughts?
Manscaping
Saw that comin' sideways from a smile away :frown2: :crazy: :redface:
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Yeah, I think Rug Burn fits, given sustained moves on the climb (and on others, as Mud suggests).
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or alternatively Rug Muncher
:lol:
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I am way out of shape but it would still be fun to climb.
Can you belay?
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not very well, still a beginner
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Can you belay?
Come out on Sunday. We can all go belaying together.
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Quotes from no one.
Is this a thing now? Like van life? Owning a trendy new Tesla?
It feels like a micro aggression :lol: :out: :ciappa:
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it's more like micro traction but different.
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What time is Mr Mud picking me up?
I can have tepid milk with coffee ready for him.
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the coffee will have to be de-caf, I quit drinking coffee
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the coffee will have to be de-caf, I quit drinking coffee
feel any better?
I'm devolving into a full Peet's junky. Told a coworker this week (he was already awake, caffeinated on East Coast time) that, yes I'm online at 7am check emails and IMs, but I still hadn't had coffee so couldn't do a phone call right then. He kept typing. Then tried to voip call. I replied again. 'No seriously, I'm not doing a call right now.'
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Yes I drink decaf with a bit of caffeinated
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feel any better?
Yeah, I think so. It has been close to two Months. Not as stressed, easier to unwind when I am.
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Yes munge, you will feel better cutting back on coffee.
Mr mud, yes I to feel it’s easier to sleep if I have little or no caffine in the morning.
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^^^
Buncha old geezers talking about their failing bodies.
What will the next subject be, diapers? (And we'll shoot the first person that answers: "depends.")
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Why yes Brad it Depends.....they do save one a trip to the restroom.
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Pete's French Roast, but I have cut back to one potent cup in the morning usually. I can still drink a cup in the evening and not have it keep me up, but then I sleep like a corpse most of the time.
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Not me, 1 small cup in the am. If I had another at say 10am or later....I will not sleep the entire night.
Brutal, but good if you want to climb all night long....but not usually.
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Earl Grey, then English Breakfast earlier, two cups of coffee with berry pancakes later. Time for a Sunday afternoon nap.
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Good plan.
Weather look horrible.
Definitely not a Pinnacles day.
And the jets keep passing overhead!!! It’s terrible, so noisy I can’t hear myself.
You’d think I was living in Santa Cruz.
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Earl Grey, then English Breakfast earlier, two cups of coffee with berry pancakes later. Time for a Sunday afternoon nap.
You seem to have a problem with tense and order.
All that caffeine and sugar must have rendered you delirious.
I recommend a heavy does of stance bolting on crud. :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin:
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You are correct.
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HA!
In spite of all you rabid first ascentionists, as of Monday I'm back to a point where I've done every climb at Pinnacles easier than 5.10.
Countdown to the day another goes up and it's too hot and late-season to go down there: 10, 9, 8, 7....
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HA!
In spite of all you rabid first ascentionists, as of Monday I'm back to a point where I've done every climb at Pinnacles easier than 5.10.
Countdown to the day another goes up and it's too hot and late-season to go down there: 10, 9, 8, 7....
Got the first two bolts in yesterday :thumbup: :prrr: :devildevil:
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Got the first two bolts in yesterday :thumbup: :prrr: :devildevil:
You lying sack of dog meat.
And you, a vegan. Rabid too.
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And poof, there it went.
Gavin's just finished a new route in the High Peaks that he calls 5.9 (it sounds really good too).
And J.C.'s been all quiet lately. I suspect that he's finished another "sub-5.10" by now.
Sometimes it's fun to have first-world problems ;D
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And J.C.'s been all quiet lately. I suspect that he's finished another "sub-5.10" by now.
So far it is 11c.
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J.C.'s finished another "sub-5.10" by now.
Thanks for torpedoing me dude.
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If Gavin is putting up new routes, who is watching the birds?
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If Gavin is putting up new routes, who is watching the birds?
Hitchcock fans?
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I've almost done all of those routes too. But now that Gavin has ruined it, I give up. ;)
⛰⛰⛰⛰ <--- mtn emojis
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Thanks for torpedoing me dude.
A skinny little "target" like you is hard to torpedo. You should be congratulating me for the hits (although I'm not sure how "revealing" that you're up to some new routing could possibly surprise anyone on this forum).
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A skinny little "target" like you is hard to torpedo. You should be congratulating me for the hits (although I'm not sure how "revealing" that you're up to some new routing could possibly surprise anyone on this forum).
It was a sub joke :incazzato: :ihih:
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^^^
God, with "jokes" like that, you're going to make someone a very good father.
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With a supportive belay from Gavin, I led Condorks today.
That brings me to 1,200 routes done at Pinnacles in good style (meaning led cleanly or, in one of those rare instances where a route only exists as a toprope, I’ve toproped it). It was also the only 5.9 in the park that I hadn't done.
Thinking about it, this is almost certainly the last time I will pass an "even 100" milestone. I know of about 1,340 routes in the park altogether and many of those I can not climb. I'm pretty sure I'll never get to 1,300.
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And the "not getting to 1,300" comment is most certainly NOT a complaint. It's been a fantastic ride and I'm very, very happy that I've been this fortunate and, related to fortunate but not the same, lucky.
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Welcome to Intermission, or worse case scenario, should I ask, did you save room for dessert?
And congratulations on 1200. 1313 would then be a highly fortunate number?
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I'm pretty sure I'll never get to 1,300.
Not with that kind of attitude! Cookies are for closers!
More seriously tho, thoughts on trying to work just one hard line for you? get it ruthlessly wired, and send?
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Cookies are for closers!
Absolute dibs on this as a route name!
I might use it on Sonora Pass, but I'm using it this season (if that's OK with you).
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More seriously tho, thoughts on trying to work just one hard line for you? get it ruthlessly wired, and send?
There are actually several 10s and some 11s that I know I can redpoint and so I'll spend time on them (Torque Twister anyone?).
I can't imagine that I'll ever just stop climbing here.
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Absolute dibs on this as a route name!
I might use it on Sonora Pass, but I'm using it this season (if that's OK with you).
Take me with you. I want the knife set. lol (assuming you know the original reference?)
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Take me with you. I want the knife set. lol (assuming you know the original reference?)
I don't get the reference, but to at least some extent the phrase is self explanatory.
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1,201???
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^^^
After today, 1,204.
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First watch the movie Glengarry Glenn Ross, then watch the movie The Boss Baby.
Hours of good entertainment.
In other news I’m watching The Godfather tonight. Heck of a movie.
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First watch the movie Glengarry Glenn Ross, then watch the movie The Boss Baby.
Hours of good entertainment.
In other news I’m watching The Godfather tonight. Heck of a movie.
You sound like JC, KC and Noal. Cultural french-like attachments. (I did enjoy Steve Martin trying to say hamburger in The Pink Panther) Might need a new topic, 1204 movies Brad hasn't watched. Then there's the questions of the correlations as to why. (Not that I can talk, but I rarely let that stop me from doing so.)
I did watch the Godfather, It kinda went the opposite direction of Star Wars. The horse head scene was so appallingly different than the dancing, squealing, victorious and happy little furry creatures. Having daughters, the ending of part three was fucked. Yes, heck of a movie.
The other 2 movies I have not seen, but will look up.
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^^^
Yes, we have spent so much time raising girl children. They on the other hand spent equivalent time getting steeped in modern American culture (for all the good and bad that that implies). All three of them come up with cultural references like this that just blow me away ("where in the hell did that come from?!").
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First watch the movie Glengarry Glenn Ross
I'd rather stick needles in my eyes.
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^^^
See what I mean? I've never even heard of this movie. And yet J.C. seems to know exactly what it is. Enough to, apparently, not like it ;)
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I know! i may need to run down the hill and tape him to a chair until it passes.
He does make me feel like quite the knuckle-dragger at times.
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I know! i may need to run down the hill and tape him to a chair until it passes.
He does make me feel like quite the knuckle-dragger at times.
All he does is make you see pre-existing reality.
P.S. We all like your knuckles.
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No one out of 8 people yesterday had seen Bowfinger.
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^^^
There were actually nine of us :P >:D
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^^^
I've seen it and was there in spirit.
50% of the routes still remain to be "done" evidently - so...no cookies for you.
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Nope, seven out of eight routes got led. Most more than once.
Plus a lead by Steve and Laura of all three pitches of Book of Leon.
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^^^
Praise the Lord and Pass the Ammunition!
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P.S. We all like your knuckles.
:puke:
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^^^
Praise the Lord and Pass the Ammunition!
Pop quiz (NO using the internet):
Where's this quote from?
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^Frozen
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^^^
...the things I could say. But I'm older now and more restrained in my comments.
Yeah, right. It's from a little kids movie (and does this mean that you watch Disney - or whatever it is - movies?).
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Pop quiz (NO using the internet):
Where's this quote from?
Just before moving to California in 2000, we travelled around to visit a number of old friends.
An old friend of mine from Junior High School lived near Richmond, Indiana.
They knew of an old mansion that was available to rent - so we all stayed there for one night.
That title was on some old sheet music on a baby grand piano that I was playing.
I never forgot it...
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^^^
Old, old, old...
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Sound of Music?
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Just before moving to California in 2000, we travelled around to visit a number of old friends.
An old friend of mine from Junior High School lived near Richmond, Indiana.
They knew of an old mansion that was available to rent - so we all stayed there for one night.
That title was on some old sheet music on a baby grand piano that I was playing.
I never forgot it...
You gotta be kidding?! Well the song must have been written in the mid/late '40s then.
Nope, that's NOT where the quote originated. Hint - what else am I fascinated by, other than climbing?
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From the look of the artwork on the cover of the sheet music I assumed it had something to do with one of the World Wars but I am not interested in playing old songs (or wars) - so i didn't look at it beyond that. I just thought the title was funny and it evidently stuck with me.
I was playing David Crosby and Graham Nash songs that day...
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And I never knew that it was a song - just looked it up myself and wow!
I copy/pasted the military history event that the song was written about... during the attack on Pearl Harbor:
"According to writer Jack S. McDowell, the famous phrase is generally credited to "a chaplain," said to be manning the guns of a ship under attack. "This was not true," says McDowell. For some time, long after Pearl Harbor, stories and reports surfaced about an incident involving this apocryphal "sky pilot", who was said to have uttered the words "Praise the Lord and pass the ammunition".
The stories eventually made their way through the servicemen and back to the press. This, as McDowell noted, led some writers to erroneously identify other chaplains as author of the phrase. Nonetheless, the real chaplain, LTJG Howell M. Forgy, was aboard the USS New Orleans during the Japanese attack.
Lieutenant Edwin F. Woodhead, who was the officer in charge of an ammunition line on the USS New Orleans later recounted that during the attack, "I heard a voice behind me saying, 'Praise the Lord and pass the ammunition.' I turned and saw Chaplain Forgy walking toward me, along the line of men. He was patting them on the back and making that remark to cheer and keep them going. I know it helped me a lot, too."
Another lieutenant said that thereafter, when the men heard the song, they would kid Chaplain Forgy about the role he played, encouraging him to set the record straight about who actually said what. According to the same officer the chaplain would decline, modestly claiming he felt, "... the episode should remain a legend, rather than be associated with any particular person." Author McDowell noted that reporters eventually were permitted to interview the men of the USS New Orleans involved in the "ammunition" story. Chaplain Forgy's superior officers set up a meeting with members of the press and at last, the real story of the song and the man who had inspired it was confirmed."
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I was playing David Crosby and Graham Nash songs that day...
That reminds me, I'm still young in a hearty way.
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That reminds me, I'm still young in a hearty way.
Reading the name Woodhead reminded me of you.
Jeez that was a lot of reading!
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One of my goals in life is to stump you. Still, it beats gnashing teeth, as any chaplain would know.
Turn the other turret, sounds Old Testament.
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Kline, place JC in round room and ask him to sit in a corner.
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...the things I could say. But I'm older now and more restrained in my comments.
You are clearly confused.
As we get older the filter comes off or gets clogged and has to be removed to keep the flow unrestricted.
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With Waldo's help, I got there again today. I've done every route at Pinnacles that is easier than 5.10, in good style.
The first time I got to this point, I thought that maybe my time at Pinnacles was coming to an end. That was pretty naive. The place still has stuff to offer me, and I think it always will.
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That’s because Pinnacles is like an onion or an ogre.
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That sounds highly philosophical. But I have no idea what it means :P
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That sounds highly philosophical. But I have no idea what it means :P
It is so highly philosophical that it orbits over the heads of many brilliant people, sometimes comfortably at the distance of L2.
In short, let's say you are a donkey that wandered one day into the land of Pinnacles, which in turn happens to be an inert form of a very much alive ogre, who(not which) changes into a living character for the sake of having a conversation with you. Yes, you, a talking donkey and Pinnacles, the former Monument and now in the form of an ogre are strolling along and having a conversation.
SIDENOTE; Meanwhile, mighty, supposed kings of the West stir in distaste and jealous anger at Pinnacles again assuming it's ogre form...
Sorry to interupt this account of an utterly simple conversation and such beautiful truth, but work calls. I will gently continue later.
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Oh! Now I get it.
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Not sure what both of you are on but I may want to raid your stash. Party on Wayne...
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It may be some fantasmal delusion he cooked up after reading something at the lieberry - in which case...never mind...
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It may be ANOTHER fantasmal delusion he cooked up after reading something at the lieberry - in which case...never mind...
I changed one word for you.
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Speaking as an ogre who likes onions, I'd like to suggest that climbers of a certain age get free use of the donkey when descending from the High Peaks.
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Serious question:
Are there any actual laws that would prohibit use of a donky or mule on trails at Pinnacles?
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^^^
It's also an interesting question. And I for one have absolutely no idea.
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No you cannot ride or bring stock animals on trails at Pinnacles. Many national parks allow stock animals. It is stated on each park's website what area and trails they are allowed.. Some allow you to bring your own for example Yellowstone, Death Valley. Others offer them through concession companies.
I believe the idea to offer horseback riding at Pinnacles was thrown around when it became a National Park to increase revenue but it did not happen.
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Yep, Noal is correct. Stock have only been used sporadically by trails crew staff on trails at Pinnacles, when heavy gear for trails projects needs to be transported. Otherwise stock aren't allowed on trails.
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I’m sure that if one brought your emotional support donkey on the trail and explained that you are bipolar and at times could be quite an ass yourself, the rangers would be understanding.
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What if my pack animal is a pig?
Oh wait, nevermind, that’s my spirit animal.
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I’m sure that if one brought your emotional support donkey on the trail and explained that you are bipolar and at times could be quite an ass yourself, the rangers would be understanding.
eyes watering :lol: :lol: :lol:
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Well God Damn. I actually got back "in status" yesterday. Unless some damn sonof#$%&ch has been holding out on us about some new route they've done, I'm back to having done every climb in the park easier than 5.10 in good style. I wasn't sure I'd ever get there again. This stuff really is fun.
I'm starting to realize though that this will end some day. Someone will put up a route at some point and I'll walk out to it with my walker. Dave Harden will be along, no doubt, using two walkers. Gavin will be older and he'll have begun to understand but, willing as always, he'll have carried the rope and rack out. Marco and Mikayla will have intuitively understood what's coming and hiked out with us (a short hike) for the laugh. I'll look at the route, shake my head, and I'll say, "nope, can't do this one." It's inevitable and when it happens? I'll go back to camp, kiss Vicki, get my face washed by retrievers, pour a glass of wine, sit in my chair and be totally, totally satisfied by how long it did last.
Another thing I'm realizing is that I'll never get the raw route count up to 1,300. I've now done 1,258 different routes in the park in good style. There aren't currently enough existing climbs that I can do to get to 1,300 and even if others are established over time, I don't see it happening. And I'm good with that too. Such a great run.
All these reflections while I'm sore and worn out at home today after three action packed and excellent days down there. Thanks to Jenn as always for the great guidebook help and getting over to the first of two routes I needed to do. Gavin and Alacia made yesterday at The Citadel a ton of fun and quite productive. In fact, I think I'm mostly sore because Gavin expects me to climb harder than I should for my age. But who knows, maybe he's right. He definitely pushes me. Alacia just tries not to laugh while I grunt my way up routes.
And apologies to Natalie who seemed to understand and forgive me for not joining them today as planned.
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hey what's up with calling me a son of a b. ;)
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Oh the doubt! 1500 before you are 80, 1600 by 90. Geez!
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hey what's up with calling me a son of a b. ;)
As the old joke goes: "if the foo shits, wear it."
You got work under control yet?
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Oh the doubt! 1500 before you are 80, 1600 by 90. Geez!
You get your lard butt out here and get going toward 1,500 yourself. Finish that oh-so-obscure thing you started way out in hell as a beginning.
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I actually got back "in status" yesterday. Unless some damn sonof#$%&ch has been holding out on us about some new route they've done,
:lol: :yesnod: :out: :devildevil: :ciappa:
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I'm realizing is that I'll never get the raw route count up to 1,300. I've now done 1,258 different routes in the park in good style. There aren't currently enough existing climbs that I can do to get to 1,300 and even if others are established over time, I don't see it happening. And I'm good with that too. Such a great run.
And apologies to Natalie who seemed to understand and forgive me for not joining them today as planned.
Don't worry about it! I'll come down in a weekend or two and we can knock some stuff out. Did you get everything on the Citadel, or not? If not, what's left?
You get your lard butt out here and get going toward 1,500 yourself.
Strangely, I had some companions on Lardbutt on Sunday. Passed on that myself...
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Don't worry about it! I'll come down in a weekend or two and we can knock some stuff out. Did you get everything on the Citadel, or not? If not, what's left?
I led the first two pitches of The Nightman Cometh and followed the third. But then not drinking enough water caught up to me (yet again). I started cramping enough that I thought better of leading Drawn and Cornered - Gavin led it and I followed. I had hoped to lead this on Monday, but in hindsight, I needed the rest instead.
Most critically, I updated the topo for The Citadel to show these two new routes. I'm very pleased with the results. The route descriptions are now one edit away from being final too and I should be able to post them later today.
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Great day at Citadel with you this past weekend, Brad. Glad you liked the new routes! The topo looks great.
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Clink and I were talking this morning about the Grand Enchantment Trail in February. And it hit me:
My first ever trip to Pinnacles and my first ever climbing road trip were during this week, the week between Christmas and New Year's, 1984/85.
So now it's been 40 years. I don't feel like it was time wasted ;)
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So now it's been 40 years. I don't feel like it was time wasted ;)
Happy Fifth Decade climbing at Pinns! Pull down, not out!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54238035159_51123f148c_z.jpg)
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what the sigma?!
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Brad lesson #153: always rack up to a #2... pencil.
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So now it's been 40 years. I don't feel like it was time wasted ;)
Could be worse!