MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: clink on May 22, 2014, 06:42:22 PM
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I was reading the guide and noticed some of the ratings have changed. Some have remained the same since I remember first climbing them. Have holds broken off? Were others originally sandbagged? H&L was 5.4, Tilting Terrace 5.6, Fly Bye 5.9...
The one route that epitomized a standard to me was Ordeal 5.8 and it remains so.
5.0-5.14 any opinions as to a particular route that reps it's rating well?
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Fly Bye and Plaque seem like fairly standard 5.9's.
Daddy Long Legs as a good standard for 11d.
Heat Seeking Moisture Missile is a good standard for 10d
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The "d" is perhaps the most defining of the letter grades. A "d" rating implies any climb more difficult than this belongs in a higher number grade, "d" is the break point.
5.10 a is important because there is not a 5.9d .
Mud, I haven't climbed either of your "d" suggestions but will try this season.
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I was reading the guide and noticed some of the ratings have changed. Some have remained the same since I remember first climbing them. Have holds broken off? Were others originally sandbagged? H&L was 5.4, Tilting Terrace 5.6, Fly Bye 5.9...
The one route that epitomized a standard to me was Ordeal 5.8 and it remains so.
5.0-5.14 any opinions as to a particular route that reps it's rating well?
Two people at the AAC were saying they thought Ordeal was harder.
I can give you a list of sandbags and softies.
Ratings are so subjective, height and ego dependent - the more I climb, the less I trust their accuracy.
Of course all our new routes are perfectly rated - except one...or maybe two...no three...crap!
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Ratings are so subjective, height and ego dependent - the more I climb, the less I trust their accuracy.
Just add -ish
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I think Ordeal is 5.8, it definitely is not 5.9. It basically has one slightly tricky move. It is a route that has not gotten any harder over time. I think the foot transfer edge is perhaps a slightly larger than in the past.
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I think Ordeal is 5.8, it definitely is not 5.9. It basically has one slightly tricky move. It is a route that has not gotten any harder over time. I think the foot transfer edge is perhaps a slightly larger than in the past.
I told the folks at the AAC climb-in that if it felt harder than 5.8 - they must have been off route. One of them said they'd done it 4 or 5 times and it always seemed harder. When I saw that person climbing it they were on TR and way left of where I went on the crux. I think part of it is knowing your climbing medium and being adept at following the LOLR.