MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: JC w KC redux on June 12, 2014, 12:10:22 PM
-
clink and I topped Machete yesterday using his old favorite customized version of linkups.
We started up Twinkle Toes, continued up Gary and Phyllis Headwall and finished on The West Face.
Looking down part of the West Face Traverse.
When I got close to the end of my rope, I set up a belay on a "sturdy" holly cluster about 30 feet from the anchor (which I couldn't see and had no idea where it was) - tucked my butt into the slot and just started laughing.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3c8Cr3Bh0iS8QdVvusgHRlpQ7Q862qbJDdS04ZjbGZWxto_LG6KpA8AWCVcuC3pcn_sny9ApmPhfQDwnLqDukzPblW8HIN8BL1VZitBQ1IT5gxzqPkekMjrRAAtjFjVjGZwKkzG-MNJpNFXVWNO4IuC=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
clink following the traverse (classic old school Pinnacles nonsense)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fT2vPrEwVot0ZvVwfp0Z8aoPtwVA5elWq2bPdKg3UVkd_VJpJGVBW9CjKfxKtUZ8bPJn99zGVulcb0gjcSW4ux6dOZ6EWzRUBcnx1foid7YYM0t6o_D4cbwpcK2qmr2_55RvN5ojy5kB8rPx1it2-C=w627-h625-no?authuser=0)
clink follows the final pitch
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3c11xCQnz9u5cLs216vlvyyLv1BWi_FCHxJV8tCAyJWAdGRghFz1WvnKFycsV51gCauzZXov6MgwSi6QzdR2XTFneBJjLv_yTJY2XjH0Y1YKfSUH8o1tnZ4QuiZu_sha3Gfk4NGCm8Z0yQ740dmQbs6=w650-h488-no?authuser=0)
me and Magnum PO at the top
a great day swapping leads, learning new stuff and always a treat to rope up with the clinker :)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3elsZlliYoKhugCNvGAy9G9BjuuzvuehaGWY6kvBaU1EPiDye71hmL5Xe_99EEVxBjzBZUaigO5MkDd2dqq_mxWlqldVdAX7gKr0wM8K4A8aEM_GHHPfDVTk62gBa7lBwnUFVlCm9_arB0Uvg5iEDOp=w800-h600-no?authuser=0)
-
J.C. How'd the aid go? Did you lead or follow the aid? Jugs or french free?
And to think, the Dawsons and I had to squeeze between snow and rock just to get started on yesterday's climbs.
-
And to think, the Dawson's and I had to squeeze between snow and rock just to get started on yesterday's climbs.
That's called a hint. ;)
Who all is going up?
-
That's called a hint. ;)
Who all is going up?
LOL HA HA- I bet its melting fast!
-
J.C. How'd the aid go? Did you lead or follow the aid? Jugs or french free?
Good and bad. I need more practice on easier stuff/bolt ladders.
I aided the first two bolts on P&G smoothly and then went free.
clink led the West Face aid since the sun was coming over fast.
I had a terrible time following/trying to climb the aiders past the first two bolts on that 6 bolt section.
Getting the second and fourth bolts with those long reaches felt impossible.
-
Good and bad. I need more practice on easier stuff/bolt ladders.
I aided the first two bolts on P&G smoothly and then went free.
clink led the West Face aid since the sun was coming over fast.
I had a terrible time following/trying to climb the aiders past the first two bolts on that 6 bolt section.
Getting the second and fourth bolts with those long reaches felt impossible.
Wow, that surprises me that you struggled. It might be a mixed issue technique but also one of strength too - if one hasn't done or trained for that type of work, it doesn't come easy.
BTW, one of the best ways to train for that type of thing is to carry heavy, faded purple packs to the base of climbing crags. You should try that as often as you can.
-
Brad I stole one of your day packs the wknd we climbed. Want it mailed back?
-
Multipitch? Aid climbing? French Freeing? Jugging? JC what is happening to you? I am really starting to get worried. Keep this up and you might end up on granite somewhere in the Sierra and forsake Pinnacles for a weekend or two.
-
Multipitch? Aid climbing? French Freeing? Jugging? JC what is happening to you? I am really starting to get worried. Keep this up and you might end up on granite somewhere in the Sierra and forsake Pinnacles for a weekend or two.
Wow dude, slooow down. Yes, we're widening J.C.'s climbing horizons. He's steadily trying new stuff and getting better at all of it. And granite is a part of that process.
But it's got to be done slowly (he's pretty old you know). Give it time.
Oh, and by the way Aaron:
1. How's progress on your Valley goal if I might ask?
2. Why don't we see you up here now and then?
-
Brad I stole one of your day packs the wknd we climbed. Want it mailed back?
Huh? Do you really have one of my packs? If so, no mail. Bring it up yourself, that is, you personally get your ass up here.
-
JC what is happening to you?
I suspect it may all be related to sleeping inn or being a high peaks grifter ;)
-
Wow dude, slooow down. Yes, we're widening J.C.'s climbing horizons. He's steadily trying new stuff and getting better at all of it. And granite is a part of that process.
But it's got to be done slowly (he's pretty old you know). Give it time.
Oh, and by the way Aaron:
1. How's progress on your Valley goal if I might ask?
2. Why don't we see you up here now and then?
HA!
I have been hitting the Valley almost every weekend. I would really like to get my French Free technique dialed and a little more work on the belay systems with my partner. Finding people to practice aid climbing with has been challenging. Do not want to be part of the 50% that bail at or before Dolt Tower.
I need to get to Sonora soon. I have a brand new shinny guide book that I have still never been able use. I blame this on my choice in climbing partners and their need to only climb first ascents.
-
BTW, one of the best way to train for that type of thing is to carry heavy, faded purple packs to the base of climbing crags. You should try that as often as you can.
OK I admit it, this made me laugh out loud. I swear one time I'm gonna see you and that thing will disintegrate.
Hope the family made it home safe and you are enjoying the company.
-
HA!
I have been hitting the Valley almost every weekend. I would really like to get my French Free technique dialed and a little more work on the belay systems dialed with my partner. Finding people to practice aid climbing with has been challenging. Do not want to be part of the 50% that bail at or before Dolt Tower.
I need to get to Sonora soon. I have a brand new shinny guide book that I have still never been able use. I blame this on my choice in climbing partners and their need to only climb first ascents.
My first bit of advice is do not French Free, it is slow and bad form. Remember to Batman using high tech gear when ever possible, yarding on gear, or performing old school techniques such as A0 are also good form and can get you through difficult times quickly.
Here's to sweat in your eye
P.S. deploying decaying old purple packs is dubious at best.
-
My first bit of advice is do not French Free, it is slow and bad form.
Not sure I understand. I was practicing aid on La Escuela at the El Cap base a few weeks ago. Not sure if you are familiar with the climb but it is an 11.b left facing over hung corner. It took me about 45 minutes to aid the first pitch. I then tried French Free and did it in under 20 minutes. Seemed like it was much faster to French Free. Maybe I was in just in a time warp?
-
Aaron, read closely: French free is bad form. The one exception is if you are climbing with a French hottie.
yarding on gear, works very well. French Free might be faster than aiding a pitch, but A0 or yarding on gear are faster.
Jeepers, next thing we know you will be stopping mid pitch to bolt that crack. Did you perm your hair while you were out French Freeing those pitches, buy some foie gras, wear pink lycra? No wonder you cannot find climbing partners. Get a grip dude.
Think Hardman, Captian Granite, Batman, and Sweat in your eyes.
-
Mud, French free is A0/pulling on gear/half free climbing.
What are you talking about?
-
Yahooo! Mud was reading from the book. Aaron, you are privileged, accepted despite interpretation. I don't know how you triggered it, but that was awesome.
Do it again!
-
JC did you check out Rock Around the Clock or Balconies Regular Route? They look next. I found more 10's calling to you.
-
Mud, French free is A0/pulling on gear/half free climbing.
What are you talking about?
Read it and imagine Mud with that damn grin, saying: "...read closely: French free is bad form."
And what else did he describe? All of it is also bad form. Notice that he didn't have a problem with pulling on gear, just with French Free.
Aaron, you've just been honored with a humorous dig from Mud himself.
-
JC did you check out Rock Around the Clock or Balconies Regular Route? They look next. I found more 10's calling to you.
Get on Los Banditos too - I seriously think it's the best FA I've done at Pinns. Good aid/free experience.
-
Get on Los Banditos too - I seriously think it's the best FA I've done at Pinns. Good aid/free experience.
[/quote
Enjoyed rock around the clock...this is next....maybe after Machete....
-
Mud, French free is A0/pulling on gear/half free climbing.
What are you talking about?
Munge
DIE
-
well, at least I brought back the 'die'
going back to posting pics on SPH.com
-
Brad is right, los banditos is the best.
-
Brad is right, los banditos is the best.Get on Los Banditos too - I seriously think it's the best FA I've done at Pinns. Good aid/free experience.
Smells like fish.
Didn't I on sight freesolo that years ago?
-
Excuse my previous post. I could not find Los Banditos and thought you guys were yanking our chains with a mythical Pinns route. JC gave me the details.
-
Aaron, read closely: French free is bad form. The one exception is if you are climbing with a French hottie.
yarding on gear, works very well. French Free might be faster than aiding a pitch, but A0 or yarding on gear are faster.
Jeepers, next thing we know you will be stopping mid pitch to bolt that crack. Did you perm your hair while you were out French Freeing those pitches, buy some foie gras, wear pink lycra? No wonder you cannot find climbing partners. Get a grip dude.
Think Hardman, Captian Granite, Batman, and Sweat in your eyes.
Eric,
I can now only assume that you are French. I was thinking that maybe if you wore something like this it might make you look like a hottie....Then maybe if you would go climbing with me I might be in good form?
(http://www.konsultacia.biz/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/french-maid-costume-lhu26tak.jpg)
-
;D ;D
-
that won't help on the route.....the ladder is pretty good as ladders go. then there's the airy free moves to the ledge.
Maybe this fall with the wing being post 1yr from surgury.
-
I look much better than that in a French Maid outfit
-
I look much better than that in a French Maid outfit
Oh God I wish that I hadn't read that. OGodOGodOGod.
-
Haaaaaaaaah!
-
Multipitch? Aid climbing? French Freeing? Jugging? JC what is happening to you? I am really starting to get worried. Keep this up and you might end up on granite somewhere in the Sierra and forsake Pinnacles for a weekend or two.
The valley calls with its sweet granite voice.
-
Get on Los Banditos too - I seriously think it's the best FA I've done at Pinns. Good aid/free experience.
I MUST agree. This is by far my favorite non-death route in the monument.
-
The valley calls with its sweet granite voice.
Maybe.
But on the other hand, Roger and I just put up an absolutely three star, 5.11a route in the South Fork today. No crowds (in fact no-one but us), great, wilderness location, and previously untouched, Tuolumne Meadows quality rock. A full 115 feet of it (ten bolts and one cam).
I get a little jaded by the Valley crowds and scene (but then I've also done hundreds of routes in the Valley and had great times; and I'm not hanging out on and enjoying obscure walls there like you are Kevin - so more power to you for having high levels of fun).
-
I MUST agree. This is by far my favorite non-death route in the monument.
Hey, nobody died, so it wasn't a death route.
And BTW, did Sean make that delivery to you yet?
-
Roger and I just put up an absolutely three star, 5.11a route in the South Fork today. No crowds (in fact no-one but us), great, wilderness location, and previously untouched, Tuolumne Meadows quality rock. A full 115 feet of it (ten bolts and one cam).
color me jealous. Good temps? No bugs?
-
I'll see Sean this weekend Brad so we'll see. I'm going to try to get more freeclimbing in in my life now so once things cool down I'll be back in the pinns and start working in my tick list there.
-
color me jealous. Good temps? No bugs?
It's been pretty cool around here lately. Long pants in the evenings and the windows shut. Very nice.
There were two mosquitos while we were passing through the aspen forest, and then not a single bug in sight. None.
And BTW, J.C., Roger (who just moved here) teaches geology at our local community college. Sound familiar?
-
I'll see Sean this weekend Brad so we'll see. I'm going to try to get more freeclimbing in in my life now so once things cool down I'll be back in the pinns and start working in my tick list there.
Careful, careful! It is forbidden to mention the word "tick" in any thread about Pinns. Rob will get you now. ;)
Good too; sounds like we'll see you more this coming season.
-
NO TICKS!
(can also be said in conjunction with the anti-bolt crowd... NO KIT!!!) lol
-
in bicycling your kit is what your wearing....
-
NO KILTS !
-
Yeah, Mr mud in that get up gives me nightmares.
Unless he had a wax dipping and a shave???
Clink on the other hand.....
-
Maybe.
But on the other hand, Roger and I just put up an absolutely three star, 5.11a route in the South Fork today. No crowds (in fact no-one but us), great, wilderness location, and previously untouched, Tuolumne Meadows quality rock. A full 115 feet of it (ten bolts and one cam).
I get a little jaded by the Valley crowds and scene (but then I've also done hundreds of routes in the Valley and had great times; and I'm not hanging out on and enjoying obscure walls there like you are Kevin - so more power to you for having high levels of fun).
Great! I'll be back soon when it's cool enough to spend two days down there by the river climbing. Add this to my "to do" list!
-
ten bolts and one cam
11 bolts and it would be a sport route. >:D
-
F4, nasty
-
I heard it is 5.10b
-
But on the other hand, Roger and I just put up an absolutely three star, 5.11a route in the South Fork today. No crowds (in fact no-one but us), great, wilderness location, and previously untouched, Tuolumne Meadows quality rock. A full 115 feet of it (ten bolts and one cam).
Is that Roger Putnam that you speak of?
-
Is that Roger Putnam that you speak of?
Sorry, that information is on a need to know basis. And you don't need to know until you've climbed up here a bit. ;D
(P.S. - how's the arm/elbow issue - are you even able to climb right now?)
-
I was up there yesterday. Figured you would be in front of a computer.
-
I was up there yesterday. Figured you would be in front of a computer.
I don't believe that you were here. You are correct though that after climbing Tuesday and Wednesday, I did work yesterday.
How's your arm?
And yes, it was that Roger.
-
I was up there yesterday.
Sounds like a lot of talk. Brad, hold him to some pics of said visit to ski lift cliff. ;)
-
I attempted to find the Lost World but the guidebook got me lost.
Or I was just too impatient to explore with a warm girl waiting back in SC.
The issues with my arms are still there, but are slowly getting resolved. I think I have it figured it out.
-
I attempted to find the Lost World but the guidebook got me lost.
I don't buy that either - even you aren't that dumb; those directions could get a blind person right to the crag.
Or I was just too impatient to explore with a warm girl waiting back in SC.
More likely, but I still think you're lying and that you weren't up here.
The issues with my arms are still there, but are slowly getting resolved. I think I have it figured it out.
Good, I hope so.
-
The directions in the book are orientated to navigation from the west. My matters were complicated by the fact that I came from the east.
-
Out of the water?
-
I came from the east.
With the wise men?
Been wundering where you've been.
-
The directions in the book are orientated to navigation from the west. My matters were complicated by the fact that I came from the east.
Lol Adam! So you happy in love now?
-
a warm girl waiting back in SC.
Truly a wise man to keep heading west.
-
Or was it Arron in that maid outfit??
-
I stay away from Aaron now that he has the big wall bug. It can really messes people up and will take years to recover from.
You should all know I've been seeing the same person for two years. But she doesn't exist in your world, only climbs big walls, 5.11 or Paddles rivers. No SPH or Monument.
-
I stay away from Aaron now that he has the big wall bug. It can really messes people up and will take years to recover from.
You should all know I've been seeing the same person for two years. But she doesn't exist in your world, only climbs big walls, 5.11 or Paddles rivers. No SPH or Monument.
Staying away from this crew means a healthy mind.
-
You should all know I've been seeing the same person for two years. But she doesn't exist in your world, only climbs big walls, 5.11 or Paddles rivers. No SPH or Monument.
Wow, she sounds like she's a great Haven from the riff raff that we usually surround you with.
And it's a park now (although I catch myself calling Joshua Tree a monument too, and it's been a park for over 20 years).
-
Wow, she sounds like she's a great Haven from the riff raff that we usually surround you with.
And it's a park now (although I catch myself calling Joshua Tree a Monument too, and it's been a park for over 20 years).
Just following Mungie's lead with calling it The Monument.
-
and if we all keep at it, maybe it will revert back, and then the camping policies will change, and the crowds will go away.
That's how it works right?
-
no, its called progress
and its potentially irreversible
-
I stay away from Aaron now that he has the big wall bug. It can really messes people up and will take years to recover from.
Adam,
I know I was Born Under a Bad Sign but when are we getting on Cosmos?
-
always wanted to do Cosmos
-
Adam,
I know I was Born Under a Bad Sign but when are we getting on Cosmos?
I didn't know we were planning on Cosmos. Looks cool and obscure. I don't know anyone who's done it. But I could be convinced. Maybe I'll prepare for a few more journeys up El Cap this Fall. Been trying to do it twice a year.
Looks easier to haul than The Nose, which had the most logistically challenging hauling of all my walls. The A4 part is another story.
-
no, its called progress
and its potentially irreversible
Some things you can't change....like Mr Mud's beard.