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Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: clink on August 09, 2014, 05:00:41 PM

Title: H&L Slaughterhouse? Question for Gavin
Post by: clink on August 09, 2014, 05:00:41 PM
 Aaron and traipsed around the Feather Canyon wall today doing the mental FAs of numerous routes. I decided that along with recognizing toprope FAs mentally climbing a line should be considered a FA as well. I admit to using aid on one of the MFAs I did today, but only a 3 bolt ladder. MFAs are not to be confused with ACTUAL FAs. They are really cool though.

 I also had a new record amount of dirt stuck on me today after a Pinns outing.

 So Gavin, the insides of those corridors are littered with bird pieces. Is this the work of the peregrine pair that nested in the area?
Title: Re: H&L Slaughterhouse? Question for Gavin
Post by: F4? on August 09, 2014, 07:19:45 PM
There is nothing to see there other than bird shit and feathers.
Just keep on moving...to say Condor Crags or the Unmentionable.

Squiddo and I pissed on the whole area years ago.
Title: Re: H&L Slaughterhouse? Question for Gavin
Post by: clink on August 10, 2014, 09:45:40 AM
 
Quote
There is nothing to see there other than bird shit and feathers.

 This wasn't just feathers, shredded birds, whole wings...

 One of my friends wanted to be a falconeer. He raised pigeons and would carry this white one named Gandalf around on his arm. A couple years later he was raising his first redtailed hawk in his old pigeon coop. In a short time the hawk figured out how to rip the pigeons walking on top the coop through the lattice when it's normal rat feeding was overdue.

 As far as some great quality rock, we didn't find any, but many corridors and chimneys, and  some lower angle rock with decent holds. As Aaron says "adventure climbing"
 Damn it got hot enough.

Quote
Squiddo and I pissed on the whole area years ago.

 Marking your territory?
Title: Re: H&L Slaughterhouse? Question for Gavin
Post by: clink on August 10, 2014, 10:01:53 AM
 Munge could go bananas up there for at least one day and I want to watch. Is there a 5.5  5/6 pitch route or just dirt and a rotten rockfest?

 I sense a convergence of the choss minded. I did throw up some apple into the choss  guzzling too much water when we got back to our packs.

 Applechoss :)
Title: Re: H&L Slaughterhouse? Question for Gavin
Post by: mungeclimber on August 10, 2014, 10:37:30 AM
Two routes...

criss cross
And
Apple choss
Title: Re: H&L Slaughterhouse? Question for Gavin
Post by: F4? on August 10, 2014, 11:35:59 AM
There is stuff there.

All to be 4****

We should mount an expedition.
Title: Re: H&L Slaughterhouse? Question for Gavin
Post by: clink on August 11, 2014, 06:05:31 AM
 Cross cross? Another Mungism I have to ask the explanation to.

 4****? Let's see 0*x0*=? I know what to do with the zeros but what about the stars?

 I am claiming the MFA of Hard as a Rock. Geoff and I scoped it out. He says "it looks like it will go around 5.7" I wasn't sure we were looking at the same thing so I had to interrupt my MFA to glance at Geoff's face, yep, we were both looking at the same line. What a moron. I have never let him forget it:)

 Since I had to interupt my MFA, it was a "take". Which means I didn't get the MFA onsight.

 I am almost giddy with joy at how disgusted Brad is going to be with this. He will mentally start arguing the deniability of MFAs, while having to admit he has done many himself.
Title: Re: H&L Slaughterhouse? Question for Gavin
Post by: mungeclimber on August 11, 2014, 08:46:53 AM
Auto correct asdfasdf!!


Fixed.  Shades of The Brady Bunch.
Title: Re: H&L Slaughterhouse? Question for Gavin
Post by: clink on August 11, 2014, 09:43:05 AM
Hogan's Heroes
Title: Re: H&L Slaughterhouse? Question for Gavin
Post by: mynameismud on August 11, 2014, 09:47:31 AM
I MFA'd that back in the 1980's
Title: Re: H&L Slaughterhouse? Question for Gavin
Post by: Aaron McDonald on August 11, 2014, 11:47:49 AM
I MFA'd that back in the 1980's

You may have done it in the 80's but Clink was the first to report the MFA. The MFA goes to Clink.
Title: Re: H&L Slaughterhouse? Question for Gavin
Post by: Aaron McDonald on August 11, 2014, 11:50:22 AM
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-sWDv2LhNZHA/U-aPdM82-jI/AAAAAAAASfo/Z6E46aKUs6M/w483-h859-no/20140809_100204.jpg)

(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-_9qfUOOK9Ew/U-aQWp19FeI/AAAAAAAAShM/jbWW93Cd4V8/w483-h859-no/20140809_123122.jpg)
Title: Re: H&L Slaughterhouse? Question for Gavin
Post by: Aaron McDonald on August 11, 2014, 02:22:26 PM
Just to be clear Feather Canyon goes right up the middle?
Title: Re: H&L Slaughterhouse? Question for Gavin
Post by: F4? on August 11, 2014, 05:32:38 PM
Kind of.... Better i show you in person.
It would be easier if there was a topo. Maybe in the next guide.


Hey mud, did you actually piss there versus checking it out from a far? It makes a difference.

Maybe squiddo will pipe in, slacker.
Title: Re: H&L Slaughterhouse? Question for Gavin
Post by: mynameismud on August 11, 2014, 07:47:14 PM
I think perhaps maybe I need to go climbing.
Title: Re: H&L Slaughterhouse? Question for Gavin
Post by: clink on August 11, 2014, 08:26:58 PM
Quote
I MFA'd that back in the 1980's

Me too. 86?

I think he hurt his finger, ahh.

Title: Re: H&L Slaughterhouse? Question for Gavin
Post by: F4? on August 11, 2014, 09:09:15 PM
Quote
I think perhaps maybe I need to go climbing.

Me to.

I love the one....

Title: Re: H&L Slaughterhouse? Question for Gavin
Post by: F4? on August 11, 2014, 09:16:51 PM
This pretty much gives it away....the hear shaped rock.

Squiddo shows where you go...but did we go there 1st, nah @ his elbow is some nasty shit.

(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Sports/FeatherCanyon10/DSCF5102/762003651_UP6Vd-M.jpg)
Title: Re: H&L Slaughterhouse? Question for Gavin
Post by: mungeclimber on August 11, 2014, 10:35:35 PM
draw a line overview on that pic please showing the approach and the chimney please!
Title: Re: H&L Slaughterhouse? Question for Gavin
Post by: waldo on August 12, 2014, 06:57:37 AM
Hey, I know where it is - at least I did twenty years ago.  Clink, I never do MFAs.  I like to be surprised.
Title: Re: H&L Slaughterhouse? Question for Gavin
Post by: Aaron McDonald on August 12, 2014, 09:09:25 AM
Do you need a head lap to do feather canyon? Is the chimney really dark?
Title: Re: H&L Slaughterhouse? Question for Gavin
Post by: Aaron McDonald on August 12, 2014, 09:40:47 AM
Clink, I never do MFAs.  I like to be surprised.

The point is to lay claim to the route prior to Brad.
Title: Re: H&L Slaughterhouse? Question for Gavin
Post by: Aaron McDonald on August 12, 2014, 09:41:34 AM
draw a line overview on that pic please showing the approach and the chimney please!

That would be greatly appreciated!
Title: Re: H&L Slaughterhouse? Question for Gavin
Post by: waldo on August 12, 2014, 03:11:25 PM
Aaron,

The right slot starts twenty feet or so above the slope.  Some loose 4th class is required to reach the entrance.  Once you get into the slot, walk almost all the way to the N end before you start climbing.  It's more or less solid stemming with bolts (2 or 3 ancient ones) found on alternating sides of the chimney.  It's dark and pretty strange in there, but no headlamp is required.   
Title: Re: H&L Slaughterhouse? Question for Gavin
Post by: F4? on August 12, 2014, 07:46:07 PM
Quote
Aaron,

The right slot starts twenty feet or so above the slope.  Some loose 4th class is required to reach the entrance.  Once you get into the slot, walk almost all the way to the N end before you start climbing.  It's more or less solid stemming with bolts (2 or 3 ancient ones) found on alternating sides of the chimney.  It's dark and pretty strange in there, but no headlamp is required.  
Come one....don't give too much. It's all there.

Squiddo @ the 1st bolt or past it..
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Sports/FeatherCanyon10/DSCF5110/762006236_wovo4-X2-1.jpg)
Gear:
long runners
draws
cams to #2 Camalot
'6 Cam
6 pack of Tecate (cans)
few carabiners





Btw, the Admin is messing with me again...so much for free speech.
Title: Re: H&L Slaughterhouse? Question for Gavin
Post by: waldo on August 12, 2014, 09:10:34 PM
Come one....don't give too much. It's all there.

You're right.  It's the Roper in me.


6 pack of Tecate (cans) -- We agree on what constitutes a complete rack.
few carabiners





Btw, the Admin is messing with me again...so much for free speech.
Title: Re: H&L Slaughterhouse? Question for Gavin
Post by: NOAL on August 13, 2014, 12:14:09 PM
F4 where on the route did you need all those cams?  We brought none and the route is pretty mellow except for the old bolts in chimney.(I like that slung knob backing up the bolt in your pic)  Last time I was there the anchor at the top of the first pitch was re-bolted with new stainless hardware including rap rings  which makes it easy if you just want to check out the bottom of the chimney or you get spooked by the old bolts.
Title: Re: H&L Slaughterhouse? Question for Gavin
Post by: F4? on August 13, 2014, 07:37:11 PM
2nd pitch had a great spot for a #2 Camalot after the 1st bolt.

After that I think the cams were just for good looks.....

Nice someone replaced some bolts.

I think it's one of my favorite routes for sure.


Title: Re: H&L Slaughterhouse? Question for Gavin
Post by: NOAL on August 14, 2014, 12:46:28 PM
 F4,good to know.  Next time I do the route I'll bring a #2 cause the bolts in that chimney be baaad.
Title: Re: H&L Slaughterhouse? Question for Gavin
Post by: F4? on August 15, 2014, 05:51:59 PM
and the 6 pack of tecate, there are some great ledges along the way.

Title: Re: H&L Slaughterhouse? Question for Gavin
Post by: Gavin on August 17, 2014, 10:00:55 PM
So Gavin, the insides of those corridors are littered with bird pieces. Is this the work of the peregrine pair that nested in the area?

Bird pieces could be from prey remains left by the peregrine falcon pair. The corridors and crevices likely also make for decent roosts for owls - great-horned or barn - and the prey remains could be from those raptor species as well. If there were any castings around - big pellets with bone, fur, feathers, etc. in them - that would more likely be due to owls.
Title: Re: H&L Slaughterhouse? Question for Gavin
Post by: clink on August 18, 2014, 06:21:07 AM
Quote
Bird pieces could be from prey remains left by the peregrine falcon pair. The corridors and crevices likely also make for decent roosts for owls - great-horned or barn - and the prey remains could be from those raptor species as well. If there were any castings around - big pellets with bone, fur, feathers, etc. in them - that would more likely be due to owls.

Thanks Gavin. Next time up I will look for castings. And take more pics.
Title: Re: H&L Slaughterhouse? Question for Gavin
Post by: F4? on August 18, 2014, 06:02:41 PM
Mud Falcons?
Title: Re: H&L Slaughterhouse? Question for Gavin
Post by: clink on August 18, 2014, 08:29:08 PM
Sack lunch.
Title: Re: H&L Slaughterhouse? Question for Gavin
Post by: F4? on August 18, 2014, 09:26:46 PM
And keep an eye out for Squiddo.....haven't seen that guy on this forum in ages. He might have gotten lost in that corridor (he usually does).