MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: kylequeener on September 24, 2014, 08:18:21 AM
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After several failed attempts at remembering my log-in information I finally broke through and have regained control of my account. Whooo hoo!
So my first question is, what's your desired tick list for this season at Pinns?
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I plan on bushwacking tick free.
Shake and Bake 20 yrs later. Pratt's crack?
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Son of Dawn Wall, Icarus, Balconies Regular Route. Clink, I think you mean Pratt's Chimney!
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Four items on mine:
1. Finish the five routes in the Park that are easier than 5.10 which I have not yet done;
2. Finish two FAs that are started but not yet done (it's really rare for me to have more than one such route-in-progress);
3. Project a few 5.10s and 5.11s that I haven't yet led clean;
4. Do my 900th Pinnacles route as an FA with as many of my friends joining me for that FA as possible.
It would also be nice to bushwhack tick-free ;)
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Damn Aaron, add in Los Banditos to that list too (would you please?) ;D
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my goal is to get off the couch
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Son of Dawn Wall, Icarus, Balconies Regular Route. Clink, I think you mean Pratt's Chimney!
Right on, good routes. I've never done Icarus and it's one that stands out to me as well.
my goal is to get off the couch
Good luck with that. That's the hardest move of any route!
I'm hoping to do West of the Sun this year. That's the last of the hard stuff for me to finish up in the Monument. Errrr... I mean Park. Also looking around for new routes and getting a couple first free ascents. Doing the 3rd pitch of Conduit to the Cosmos would be nice too. A friend of mine took the FFA unknowingly and has eluded to the fact that its completely effing dirty. But it looks like an amazing position. I'm not looking forward to leading the 1st pitch again. It's really good climbing but the whipper on that pitch is an ugly thing to witness.
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Just go climbing
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Just go climbing
I'm going to keep chasing down the obscurities and hope I survive :)
I'm pretty sure that will also lead to some FA's and rebolting along the way.
Park schmark - I still call it the Monument too.
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Get on some not yet done classics
H&L Feather Canyon - weekend before last was great fun
Condor Condiment - maybe Sunday
then
Goat Rock - to bugger up a couple sheepish mudders
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That's a great list of goals.
I guess I should add to my list:
5. Clean my YELLOW rope that everyone has been calling green lately.
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Get on some not yet done classics
H&L Feather Canyon - weekend before last was great fun
Condor Condiment - maybe Sunday
then
Goat Rock - to bugger up a couple sheepish mudders
What? The Mac was on the mud?
Are you rebolting those as you go?
You climbing with someone or just free soloing?
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What? The Mac was on the mud?
Are you rebolting those as you go?
You climbing with someone or just free soloing?
There's nothing better than a good mud day.
It is tempting to go back and rebolt... For now it's great to take pleasure in just climbing without the extra work.
Was able to pull in my eldest brother (good prep for his Aconcagua trip in a couple of months).
My days of rope less soloing in the Monument are long past.
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There's nothing better than a good mud day.
It is tempting to go back and rebolt... For now it's great to take pleasure in just climbing without the extra work.
Was able to pull in my eldest brother (good prep for his Aconcagua trip in a couple of months).
My days of rope less soloing in the Monument are long past.
The mac bros are back! :)
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Jim, good to hear you got out.
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What was he in for?
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I'm hoping to do West of the Sun this year.
Doing the 3rd pitch of Conduit to the Cosmos would be nice too.
Sounds like you and Atom should start your own forum - nobody else on here pulls own that hard! :)
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Sounds like you and Atom should start your own forum - nobody else on here pulls own that hard! :)
No, no, no. One of the beauties of this forum is the mix of abilities and interest levels. Of men and women. Of duffers and young kids with yet-unscarred knees. Leave it be...
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Jim,
That's cool you went and did Bird Shit Canyon...Hope the doubles of Camalots and nuts helped.
Won't you agree all of the rock around it is crap...
Condor Condiment will be nice.
Post pictures for us working stiffs.
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All right, my YELLOW rope is clean.
One down, four to go :D
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Won't you agree all of the rock around it is crap...
Define "all"
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No, no, no. One of the beauties of this forum is the mix of abilities and interest levels. Of men and women. Of duffers and young kids with yet-unscarred knees. Leave it be...
Atom is moving to Jeantucky so it's most likely moot anyway :(
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Atom is moving to Jeantucky so it's most likely moot anyway :(
OK, I'll bite. I know where "Prunetucky" is. Jeantucky?
I'll take my answer offline or online Genius Boy.
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Balconies Project.
Balconies Regular Route
Get on some sport at Mono.
Feather Canyon is highly intriguing.
Something on Flumes has my eye.
Rebolt some more. I didn't get to very many last season.
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Something on Flumes has my eye.
Rebolt some more. I didn't get to very many last season.
Just as an FYI - someone has a project started on Flumes to the right of Romper Room.
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Just as an FYI - someone has a project started on Flumes to the right of Romper Room.
I think that this project you mention that is to the right of Romper Room is abandoned. I suspect you're referring to the one that Tyler broke his leg on. After he and Josh abandoned it, Josh was pretty sure that someone else added another bolt or two. But those additions were at least four years ago and nothing seems to have changed since.
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I think that this project you mention that is to the right of Romper Room is abandoned. I suspect you're referring to the one that Tyler broke his leg on. After he and Josh abandoned it, Josh was pretty sure that someone else added another bolt or two. But those additions were at least four years ago and nothing seems to have changed since.
Some folks told us they started up it one day and then realized it didn't keep going so they bailed off.
I am planning to do some rebolting on that wall eventually. Should I strip it if and when I do?
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Some folks told us they started up it one day and then realized it didn't keep going so they bailed off.
I am planning to do some rebolting on that wall eventually. Should I strip it if and when I do?
You know, it's over the trail enough that it might be a problem as a new route. Plus, if I recall, they found the climbing pretty darn mossy and dirty.
Josh checks in here enough that he probably has an opinion about what, if anything, should be done.
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Plus, if I recall, they found the climbing pretty darn mossy and dirty.
This cannot be a reason... That would be to many good routes!
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Atom is moving to Jeantucky so it's most likely moot anyway :(
Rumor is true. I'm moving to Bishop to pursue the art projects that distance from the sierra has prevented. Pscyhed to ski, climb and make art all winter... and eat really well. Also met a really nice girl, Jean from Kentucky (Jean Tucky), who has fallen into favor with me. I do plan on attending the Work days with Jean. At this point I've moved out of my place in SC and am temporarily around until the trimming season ends.
As for my goals at the Pinns. I would hope that John Bolte and I can finish our Condor Crags route. it would be cool to climb Foreplay, Best 5.11 in the monument... Brad you listening??? and generally just show Jean where I came from.
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I am listening (in between other computer work).
Has she really "fallen into favor with you?"
More like you got lucky and you've "fallen into favor with her." :D :D
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What Condor Crag route?? Interesting....
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Munge turned me on to a few comments above about the project to the right of romper room.
I think we started it in 05-06, decent climbing up to the little headwall. 2 bolts were placed then Tyler tried to hook to get a bolt about 10 inches higher than he could drill from on stance, and that bolt would have been a good protector from the slab.
The hook popped and he plummeted, exploding his ankle. It took us 3.5 hours to get to the car from the flumes...
I don't know when, but 2 more bolts were added to the line. Probably a few years after our attempt. 5 peice, with fixe hangers I think.
The line would stop before the large headwall toward the top, probably 80-100 feet, then with an anchor you could TR the slab on the right of what would have been our bolted line.
All of this was done without our knowledge of the "no new routes over trails". It was later I knew we had made a mistake, but did not venture back because we were going to try and finish it when Tylers ankle healed, which it never did.
I think it would be a decent climb, but as most it is a bit chossy, the upper slab above our bolts looks pretty heads up.
In terms of it's current status, I am not going to be able to do anything to the route for a while. Finishing it would be nice, if only to not have drilled for nothing. However, I believe the scope of the route is not in favor with the pinnacles ethic of abstaining from trailside new routeing.
I would ask that it not be touched, as I would prefer to discuss some options, and if a decision to pull and patch the bolts, I take care of it. That route reminds me of how quickly a life can change forever, to the tune of drilling a bolt. Since then, on many FA's I still think of Tyler and that fall.
I Think the best option for the interim would be to camo the hangers.
Thanks for the thoughts, and hope the season goes great for everybody, I miss the adventure...
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thanks Josh,
I wouldn't have touched it without say so.
It sounds like it might be okay and I don't think it's that close to the trail.
Sorry about your friend and sorry someone poached it.
You make it sound like you are out for the season.
Come join us in a couple weeks for some work with the Mrs.?
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I don't think it's that close to the trail.
That was my thought too, but much depends on how much loose rock there is on it right now. Could the loose rock be cleaned up enough to warrant it staying, just to be sure? Maybe someone could send Mucci some pics offline to evaluate?
Anyways, just talking out of my butt. I defer to Mucci.
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I wouldn't have touched it without say so
Didn't mean to infer that JC, we are all fortunate that mudsters don't jump lines ;D
I think it would be a cool climb, but honestly can't make a good call after so many years, and the memory of the big crushing fall. However, the matrix was good but mossy down low, and looked the same higher up.
Maybe somebody can take some pix of the line if they get a chance for me?
It would be cool if a consensus on the trail can be made.
I am pretty sure there was a bolt in the moss chute immediately left of our project line, right of romper room. I checked my notes on the area but didn't seem to mention it. Old leeper IIRC
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but did not venture back because we were going to try and finish it when Tylers ankle healed, which it never did.
Mucci, that is sobering. Sorry for your partner getting hurt.
We eyed that line, if it is where I am thinking.
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Has anyone climbed all the McConachie routes? Have any of the McConachie's climbed all of them?
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Good question.. I'm sure Jim has...Brad and Mr Mud not far behind.
If you do embark on that endeavor...good luck.
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I have not done the project on the Snail.
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and some of his newest stuff.
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Signing on a little late here, but for a fall / winter wish list:
- 5.10s and 5.11s at Balconies. I've done most of them but always love getting back on them.
- Long days at the Yaks and Yaks Wall. I've done some climbing there but it can be hard to convince people to make the trek out there. I've still never done some classics like Split Infinity and would love to.
- Resurrection Wall. Would definitely love to do the long 5.11a on that wall!
- Stuff at Citadel and Whitetail Rock, especially the classic 5.10s there.
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Signing on a little late here, but for a fall / winter wish list:
- 5.10s and 5.11s at Balconies. I've done most of them but always love getting back on them.
- Long days at the Yaks and Yaks Wall. I've done some climbing there but it can be hard to convince people to make the trek out there. I've still never done some classics like Split Infinity and would love to.
- Resurrection Wall. Would definitely love to do the long 5.11a on that wall!
- Stuff at Citadel and Whitetail Rock, especially the classic 5.10s there.
Never too late!
I just did Resurrection Wall yesterday and found it to be a lot less intimidating as I had suspected it to be. I think it has been sensationalized by others. I could just be an asshole though. You should definitely do it, its great. I didn't worry about the bad bolts too much. Just clip all of them.
Also, I've never been to the Yaks. If you ever wanna head out I will totally make the walk out there. I here it's fantastic.
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Another lap on Lava Falls.
Finally get around to climbing Cuidado.
I'd like to find an aid line to FA. Something vertical, solid, and technical. The valley calls just as strongly during the winter as it does in the summer though.
Watch my girl lead Portent.
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What would be the best thing to use to camo the bolts on Mucci's route on the Flumes?
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mottled paint, more than one color.
use a plastic milk jug with a hanger size cut out to paint just the hanger and not the rock.
I got yer FA aid lines.
What do you mean by "solid?"
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What would be the best thing to use to camo the bolts on Mucci's route on the Flumes?
Tie one of JC's bright orange shirts to a branch close to the route. No one will see the bolts.
I'd like to find an aid line to FA. Something vertical, solid, and technical
Overhanging, rotten, and suicide.
I think it has been sensationalized by others. I could just be an asshole though.
Please be my guardian a-hole (You would have to lead all the hard and scary sh#t)
For example; The first time Aaron and Geoff climbed together was on Rock Around the Clock. Aaron led all the climbing, Geoff pees on his rope and calls him an asshole.
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Please be my guardian a-hole (You would have to lead all the hard and scary sh#t)
For example; The first time Aaron and Geoff climbed together was on Rock Around the Clock. Aaron led all the climbing, Geoff pees on his rope and calls him an asshole.
You want me to pee of your rope?
Or do you want to pee on my rope?
I'm fine with one of those scenarios, but not the other.
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Or do you want to pee on my rope?
He'll PO your rope if you don't keep an eye on him.
I think that peckerwood is related to the Oakridge Boys ;)
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WOT is going on here?!?! lol
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Never too late!
I just did Resurrection Wall yesterday and found it to be a lot less intimidating as I had suspected it to be. I think it has been sensationalized by others. I could just be an asshole though. You should definitely do it, its great. I didn't worry about the bad bolts too much. Just clip all of them.
Also, I've never been to the Yaks. If you ever wanna head out I will totally make the walk out there. I here it's fantastic.
Yeah, we should make a plan for the Yaks... Let's try to remember and chat about it this weekend!
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I can give an excellent belay. A lot of climbers could improve their trad belaying and I work on it. I haven't peed on a rope yet. I admit, that I have had an attraction to poison oak lately as JC has observed.
Go Giants!
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Didn't mean to infer that JC, we are all fortunate that mudsters don't jump lines ;D
I think it would be a cool climb, but honestly can't make a good call after so many years, and the memory of the big crushing fall. However, the matrix was good but mossy down low, and looked the same higher up.
Maybe somebody can take some pix of the line if they get a chance for me?
It would be cool if a consensus on the trail can be made.
I am pretty sure there was a bolt in the moss chute immediately left of our project line, right of romper room. I checked my notes on the area but didn't seem to mention it. Old leeper IIRC
My two cents:
I saw this route this past Sunday and noticed a couple new bolts had been added. I remember taking a leaver biner off a few years ago at the second bolt. Maybe it was yours? Who knows. Not knowing anything about it I noticed it was over the balconies trail. It obviously doesn't start ON the trail but it is definitely OVER the trail. If a knob came off it would probably go down to the trail. I'd assume rock fall onto trails is part of the parks concerns in regards to new routes.
I can give an excellent belay. A lot of climbers could improve their trad belaying and I work on it. I haven't peed on a rope yet. I admit, that I have had an attraction to poison oak lately as JC has observed.
Go Giants!
I see poison oak as a good thing. It means I went bushwhacking. Heck, I'm itchy right now on my ankles, wrists and some on my bicep.