MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: JC w KC redux on September 27, 2014, 06:01:32 PM
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Went up Citadel way with the intention of doing a little climbing and refurbishing the anchor on the Sentry.
I removed the rotten nylon and fitted equalized rappel chains - but they would only facilitate an awkward rappel down a rotten face to a tree/shrub enema and would not facilitate the TR setup properly. The TR could easily be accomplished with a couple biners and sliding/magic X combined with the directional bolt. I doubt anyone will ever set that up again. I decided not to waste the metal.
I put an extra screwlink on the single anchor bolt to facilitate a rappel or belayed downclimb back down the 5.5 route.
In retrospect - since the hanger already puts the screwlink and the rope in the proper orientation - I should not have added this link - no harm done - just a waste of metal/money.
Single anchor bolt on The Sentry with an added screwlink
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eGO6cxzIRupxqijCGlUndYrW-HNa0nstctI9ugikKk7DSKDXyLjfyad5Xnn7DYQYFbkgPul3xcb5Lbwd7sEkAXQYjRhvf_fkxpZiDVSc5VY2ziAhX1OJkAqvbq089BdErcKDT0WlYwke_aTpqQatg8=w572-h626-no?authuser=0)
JC leads the Sentry
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fZ95RuCj9380tAJnrVCU9haH-UxN8WDm5wFNmXsvyBbFn_qMkSK_L5J4KfCbSxOIhnUYCuUltoBbPJWTz1bGx9Ac7a1liTXFK1_fQHEW98zXpqa-kJISeC4fIXHfBuOXnBZIs5WuPa7Y3ILpAuO_aQ=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
This was the best part of the climb :)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fac7z2tfdi1jHTxZa8dqdQmwYLr8eP5-Vzx5N67P7iPG8SEL4xsebIYiWoRqzqFGS6vc2WlZYxubPkDutmGbGUL3OJDq5aEmVupaP8CfM7DwlHh2AUa5OuzGSTazbwnHxrt3BmPlADLEHumAESvWEL=w700-h526-no?authuser=0)
We left the Sentry and scrambled around to the back of the Citadel
That didn't feel like 4th class to me - no doubt another one of those where someone climbed it without a rope ages ago so it had to be 4th class...
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fc4G7xuPmcZZWiNWM1X4_qMDXLELoL99JoHt1RDPwn4d6g2kUw3tNzmSzlqtwb7CjODVYp0kj38pRGjRJZ-VZEUxW1ufDx_6PDdROYYlKQ1iyNQSkyR3tapz4z2NeHflJz4TVCrAQcn04w7_t8u-8w=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
This was more like it - kind of reminded me of The Lamb - Citadel Class Four
I trailed the rope in case Kat wanted it
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cDcjK-3WUD7dVqe_YhXJByK6F3LPiMLUphvOurvTNsW3WwSAClfwBsnGXtwYBlWgemveTqLCIFUbPPVBt4tac3Um5IEvOkDgySgmevIlnKt4BnvW2Omx-9oy9sDv4UQJgxFCmd5QI3NWF9GpuZEndx=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
Kat thought she would want a rope but she ended up free soloing after me
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3f5-FpC38l5xB--o-M1yglRprUN0l-14lPtuNk_O1vrvLmxLI0XtYMM9vfgVlqusNlQT4-UijY_dVFdOGqVyyhmfU0g7qaueY-_jsV3Z4R7VJrr53ofzLCv8UT7JkaU10p-dm73PyKYMfCh3SzBurHA=w834-h625-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fBOz-G6xIpFtIUQbrq40crXFhY5FsLOHGq-S8QUDsc7a9DilzqZEm-2_QAcIEG8XROqv3b817uHpzXLy4wmWtY-sIN6QeWgEILq0GG2O9ybze2i4EOxwIVcKu_JLHSe88FxDppfqdThWwfq-3GcJYX=w800-h601-no?authuser=0)
We met a couple youngsters up top - Eric and Robert - they were kind enough to let us rap first (instead of going back down the "walk off".
Fun day with a little more free soloing and socializing on the way out :)
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Gotta love your thread titles.
And what else did you do? Did you pull off the TR route on the Sentry clean.
How did you like J.R.'s homemade hangers? I assume they are still on the formation? I always thought they were pretty beefy and well made.
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I saw a barbarian at the parking lot. He is from a small fierce local tribe and has four brothers. A Michoaconahey or somthing like that. Red flags were going off as he smiled and talked, this guy could break me in two with one arm tied behind his back, so I would need a well planned strategy, if I were to ever grapple with him. A barbarian for sure.
Having 3 brothers and many "foster" brothers, I know things. I bet there are interesting stories to be told about the 5 brothers. Hope to hear a few.
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Caleb and his twin boys,Layton and Colton, Aaron and I climbed Feeling Lucky Punk first. Next Caleb led Where's Waldo in one pitch, Aaron and I followed attentively. We all hiked down to the "Corridor" and showed the boys the route we are working on, they were excited to find bones. Then we went up a side ramp to a slide/clamber down a squeeze gully to a tree above a drop off. From the tree we climbed out a horizontal branch to 3rd/4th class scrambling left into a chimney/talus cave system that led us to the beginning of Feather Canyon's climbing. Could not have had more fun in a day.
We were listening for you, JC and KC.
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I saw a barbarian at the parking lot. He is from a small fierce local tribe and has four brothers. A Michoaconahey or somthing like that.
I bet there are interesting stories to be told about the 5 brothers. Hope to hear a few.
There's an additional/6th brother now :)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cqpyV_aqt5ql2KB8ybOt_25bL3HepAeNvtjXYOJVrqssBjBDGwANKppm5MFtFJO9R4emAxNgbSoj6s3D3u727tdj_FD5kIvJu6a79Ld__-Vs9wuP6Nph4tglILD1Et4Qwz2-GW9pSgvWWrnAvu_jJv=w500-h365-no?authuser=0)
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Gotta love your thread titles.
And what else did you do? Did you pull off the TR route on the Sentry clean.
How did you like J.R.'s homemade hangers? I assume they are still on the formation? I always thought they were pretty beefy and well made.
Pull off is probably a good description for that POS - no interest in getting on it - besides, clink says TR's aren't real routes :)
The hangers are still there. There were three just like those on Drizzly Drain/Drizzy Drain Direct - are you sure they're homemade? I guess it's certainly possible since I have not seen those anywhere else.
They are beefy but the one lead bolt is oriented to lever out on the bolt in a fall. Not that anyone will ever fall on the thing or even do the route :) The anchor is a carbon steel 5 pc. I suspect Richards was the FAist on Drizzly Drain Direct and may have added the second bolt on Drizzly Drain too (since the first bolt is a star dryvin on a Leeper and the three other bolts are 5 pc - not the standard in 1966).
It sounds like those hangers may be JR's signature.
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We were listening for you, JC and KC.
Sorry bro - we didn't have the gusto + I knew I was going back yesterday - which I didn't know when we talked earlier in the week. Looks like you guys had a blast. We'll get up there soon. What did Caleb rate Waldo? 5.2?
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What did Caleb rate Waldo? 5.2?
5.10a
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5.10a
Aw c'mon dude - you mean he didn't go back down and do it again in his approach shoes just to convince himself how easy it was :)
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Aw c'mon dude - you mean he didn't go back down and do it again in his approach shoes just to convince himself how easy it was Smiley
That's funny because he led Feeling Lucky Punk with his new approach shoes and wants to try an 8 or 9 in them.
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Check this out clink - me practicing the art of screwing the second.
Luckily Jim found the bolt that I overlooked and clipped it for Bill.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dIYYIHxhlIqKoHeUDhhj2xNw5kA68LIAj2_CQ3AKuKzV5RB_tLtNec_a5vRgeqy0VgXXQvloUkhYD5eilD5COsWB3UIyVDlEyETuzOrvl-dE6NNSqFNDDQosSS4Yw-n5MCPPapVDpfG-LwJdRAIuSI=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
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JC screwing around is an art.
Interested in a romp FA for Sat?
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that's cheating having those 2 brothers.....
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Wow that is screwing the second, proper screwed.
cool report on the citadel, awesome back there.
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Interested in a romp FA for Sat?
Total bullshit to do FAs at Pinns out of season and without me.
Get your lily white asses up here and we'll finish the SPH season with some FAs at the new crag (J.C. has been there Clink - you haven't yet. And your name isn't yet in lights up here for having done famous, wonderful, first ascents on granite).
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Get your lily white asses up here and we'll finish the SPH season with some FAs at the new crag
Like a statue of a Greek god's ass.
Your routes are too damn hard.
Tempted though. Any weekdays free?
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Your routes are too damn hard.
Bull. That's just the granite talking. Granite ain't Pinns. We need to make you good at both...
Tempted though. Any weekdays free?
We got some old time country sayings up here. One of 'em that you've probably heard is: "Is the Pope Catholic?"
One that you probably haven't heard is: "Is a frog's ass water-tight?"
Of course I have some weekdays free.
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Like a statue of a Greek god's ass.
Sure...if Greek gods subsisted on lard 3 times a day :)
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Total bullshit to do FAs at Pinns out of season and without me.
Get your lily white asses up here and we'll finish the SPH season with some FAs at the new crag (J.C. has been there Clink - you haven't yet. And your name isn't yet in lights up here for having done famous, wonderful, first ascents on granite).
NOW you see what I'm saying. :)
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NOW you see what I'm saying. Smiley
Moses and his Promised Land.
Sure...if Greek gods subsisted on lard 3 times a day Smiley
Feeling is believing.
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Of course I have some weekdays free.
Cool, I'll call.
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NOW you see what I'm saying. :)
Um, not really.
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oh come on, man!
Granite granite granite!
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oh come on, man!
Granite granite granite!
Granite is great. So is Pinns. Each is wonderful in its season.
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and what season is it now? :)
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and what season is it now? :)
Yeah, OK, I get it now.
It's granite season now. And people that do FAs at Pinns during this season should be punished.
And then over the last weekend of October we all get together and do good work as part of and for a community that shares a passion for a place and for an activity, and that marks the change from granite to Pinns season.
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It's granite season now.
Granite granite granite!
Hey Hey hee hee GET OFF A MY THREAD! :ciappa:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fc4G7xuPmcZZWiNWM1X4_qMDXLELoL99JoHt1RDPwn4d6g2kUw3tNzmSzlqtwb7CjODVYp0kj38pRGjRJZ-VZEUxW1ufDx_6PDdROYYlKQ1iyNQSkyR3tapz4z2NeHflJz4TVCrAQcn04w7_t8u-8w=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
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I hate being taken for granite.
You guys should come down this weekend - it's only going to be in the 90's :)
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Yes, we are going on a mungeventure! Westside Sat. with or without Munge.
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MungeVenture
Think I saw that on www.tesla.com. It's a step up from their Model S. Fully electric Bosch brushless motor, with Hilti racing suspension, and Milwaukee locking rear differential. Good for rock crawling.
Wish I could get you guys to climb granite this weekend. Got routes to do!
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Saturday is a home day, Sunday through Wednesday Joel and are are doing Tahoe area crags.
Do any of them count as granite?
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Think I saw that on www.tesla.com. It's a step up from their Model S. Fully electric Bosch brushless motor, with Hilti racing suspension, and Milwaukee locking rear differential. Good for rock crawling.
Munge, apparently, has consigned a drone/drill/bolting/robotic from Tesla? Is this ground up?
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The Munginator: The MungeVenture Funding Bill is passed. The system goes on-line August 4th, 1997. Ground up decisions are removed from bolting ethics. MungeVenture begins to learn at a geometric rate. It becomes self-aware at 2:14 a.m. Eastern time, August 29th. In a panic, they try to pull the plug.
Sarah Connor: MungeVenture fights back.
The Munginator: Yes. It starts a stance only campaign. With first salvo of stance only bolts going up on Balconies.
John Conner: Why attack Balconies? Isn't that an aid wall anyways, a friend to all?
The Munginator: Because MungeVenture knows the stance only attack will eliminate its enemies over here.
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Munge, apparently, has consigned a drone/drill/bolting/robotic from Tesla? Is this ground up?
I want! Can it be modified to setup TR's and to remove bolts? What about shooting Sport Climbers? Trad vs Sport is back, ah man this is so cool, climbing has gotten so boring. Finally I will be able to lead Wyoming Sheep Ranch. Thinking about the possible attachments gets me excited....
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Exactly what kind of attachments get you excited?
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scrubbing bristles attachments, to get the hard to reach choss and moss.
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Sunday through Wednesday Joel and are are doing Tahoe area crags.
Well la dee da!
Wish I could get you guys to climb granite this weekend. Got routes to do!
I gladly would if the plutons were several hours closer - or if I had 3 day weekends every weekend - or if you had a transporter to beam me to the base of the crag. That almost sounds whiny...
Now wish in one hand, chalk the other and see which one fills up faster.
Well...with me you'd end up empty-handed either way ;)
The choss is calling and I must answer it...
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I can do the driving, if you can get 2 days. And if you don't mind paddling in a canoe to reach the base of the cliff. Well, the canoeing is optional.
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...Well, the canoeing is optional.
Optional as in he could swim instead? Have you ever seen a skinny dude like him try to swim? He'd sink like a rock (make him swim with the rack already on him?).
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Exactly what kind of attachments get you excited?
It is a public forum!
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Optional as in he could swim instead? Have you ever seen a skinny dude like him try to swim? He'd sink like a rock (make him swim with the rack already on him?).
hah! Well, Tom A. does it all the time. Don't want to presume too much. :)
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What'cha got going on Mungie?
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Double top secret Greek themed water party
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best to shave and wash Mr Mud 1st then....
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Yep, for his cutting procedure too!
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Sighting of a meandering Neanderthal, (and his maid) swinging peckerwood clubs in Prunetuckian gestures of celebration when he topped the high point pinball wizardry score.
Looking at the reflection of the sun off JC's giant forehead yesterday may have brought on a mild delusional fit. :P
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Sighting of a meandering Neanderthal, (and his maid) swinging peckerwood clubs in Prunetuckian gestures of celebration when he topped the high point pinball wizardry score.
Looking at the reflection of the sun off JC's giant forehead yesterday may have brought on a mild delusional fit. :P
DIE!
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You've been hornswaggled
horn·swog·gle
ˈhôrnˌswäɡəl/
verbNORTH AMERICANinformal
past tense: hornswoggled; past participle: hornswoggled
get the better of (someone) by cheating or deception.
"you mean to say you were hornswoggled?"
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Dude, that's my line
;)