MudNCrud Forums

Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: JC w KC redux on November 16, 2014, 04:26:51 PM

Title: Chosster's Last Stand
Post by: JC w KC redux on November 16, 2014, 04:26:51 PM
Here's a couple of shots from yesterday - clink and I did Northern Lights 5.6R.
Wish I had a shot of my jump from the Geronimo Ledge.
I tried the climb part of the "climb or jump down" option described in the guidebook but everything I touched disintegrated. There was a big knob that I thought would be the key to getting down. I reverse mantled off a gravel-covered ledge and as my toe barely touched the large knob - it fell off and tumbled down the chasm below. Kat and clink heard it and thought the next thing they would see was me taking a monstrous swing out of the chasm.Only two options left at that point - reverse the route and bail or jump...Scary! Reversing the route was out of the question so I decided to jump. with my hands and butt on the ledge and my feet against the wall I pulled plenty of slack into the rope and psyched myself up. I pushed off with every ounce of strength I had and stuck the landing. When I caught my breath I yelled - "I jumped!...I'm Okay!" After I built a questionable gear belay and called off belay - I yelled - "KAT! DON'T FOLLOW THIS ROUTE!!!"   

Working toward the bolt with a couple big cams in

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fVXHCxSLHqD-BFgmWHJIssalj3-8vu4x7OemoGKdBTG0E2Nmy4-bsAGSp7pDcCd2OQljhViaSFNEsSiwPvwlMbKn4q6WtDxrAEkCErare9RRjWXgQ_DZvzMm7KJ5OjcRI1SC8ntyVz4GNV85fKlZ_U=w800-h601-no?authuser=0)



Moving past the bolt on some seriously crunchy rock

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cCWF0xfExXjjvmDOwSLUne2tGE9m655hxvQELwkkKVPgHzkPTEHtKDvcwrT22Trz-X0FuuPJRrE_lnZRaeGZEK6v_qhhWIyRTQBYnscYRvRzf71NzBFWocfbtvVVVkVZc_E-CMZWps-0r6fiO-zSyT=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)



clink follows - terror awaits the follower after unclipping the bolt - if you fall you are either going to the hospital or the morgue.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dlbtdU3mWYUGuQHOJFXlpMt0b2FzkTEb2iHDB6fn5zyyKNsfRxh0Nl1wouMzZWfpTLpo2EB46IC82vnSiH0Xqyb51tZItZtC3E_2IZrc_ViS9EB19MlKfo3DARbMfYyOFvpU2XJ3tDpHZLXnO2G4np=w700-h525-no?authuser=0)



Grateful to be on top, alive and have a partner like clink
Thanks to Kat too for the support :)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eHu_UeCT2SlNXXOjDyXGNEPtFrHhIWT_D9PMzgttWDtU0gjV71kcanThxH84atj4U_P944vejJF8pxmM6i9KV8iBcZhwHrp1fxnruu_sxw6p_biZQhw6ZBO4KP4HXRIJgp6m6Kb0MavsgqKg9lLR_V=w833-h625-no?authuser=0)
Title: Re: Chosster's Last Stand
Post by: mynameismud on November 16, 2014, 04:53:25 PM
The crack is longer than I remember.
Title: Re: Chosster's Last Stand
Post by: clink on November 16, 2014, 05:09:52 PM
The ground was closer than I remember.

Any Munchkins crawling around?
Title: Re: Chosster's Last Stand
Post by: F4? on November 16, 2014, 05:18:06 PM
the jump was fun.
Title: Re: Chosster's Last Stand
Post by: mynameismud on November 16, 2014, 05:32:58 PM
rapid deceleration syndrome 
Title: Re: Chosster's Last Stand
Post by: Brad Young on November 16, 2014, 05:34:05 PM

The crack is longer than I remember.


Yeah, I agree.
Title: Re: Chosster's Last Stand
Post by: F4? on November 16, 2014, 06:39:27 PM
Does the route need more soft brushing?
Title: Re: Chosster's Last Stand
Post by: mynameismud on November 16, 2014, 07:36:24 PM
Does the route need more soft brushing?
go for it
Title: Re: Chosster's Last Stand
Post by: JC w KC redux on November 17, 2014, 08:05:28 AM
The ground was closer than I remember.
Any Munchkins crawling around?

What's the typical ape index on a Munchkin clink?

Puny Legs could also increase the difficulty factor :)
Title: Re: Chosster's Last Stand
Post by: clink on November 17, 2014, 01:29:14 PM
Male or female?
Title: Re: Chosster's Last Stand
Post by: clink on November 17, 2014, 05:43:36 PM
Cooks got in touch with their inner boulderer. JC even went back for seconds.
Title: Re: Chosster's Last Stand
Post by: Brad Young on November 17, 2014, 07:42:30 PM
That's record three posts in a row that I:

1. Could read and understand; but

2. Had no idea what the hell they were talking about.

Title: Re: Chosster's Last Stand
Post by: mynameismud on November 17, 2014, 09:07:29 PM
I will second the last post.
Title: Re: Chosster's Last Stand
Post by: JC w KC redux on November 17, 2014, 09:13:33 PM
Cooks got in touch with their inner boulderer. JC even went back for seconds.

Yep it was pretty cool us each getting the coveted second ascent of each other's routes - esp mine of the Route Formerly Known as M.E. :)
Title: Re: Chosster's Last Stand
Post by: clink on November 18, 2014, 06:05:01 AM
Munchkin 5.9 is a new "sombrero" type route, at 24' high it required no bolts (true Munge fashion) so may not actually exist. Cool holds to Pinns rap.

This was a follow up on a follow up trying to repeat a boltless Mungeventure, and led to more >:D This above sentence is for Brad and Mud.

I am determined to see JC lead a 5.10 this season at Pinns. After Munchkin I am convinced he will. What about that route on the Sisters you have been eyeballing JC?

Aaron, let me know if an attempt on Godzilla's testicle bypass is a possibility.


Title: Re: Chosster's Last Stand
Post by: mynameismud on November 18, 2014, 01:49:05 PM
Godzilla's testicle bypass


somehow this seems like a good route name
Title: Re: Chosster's Last Stand
Post by: Brad Young on November 18, 2014, 02:14:34 PM

somehow this seems like a good route name


Supertopo says no:  http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2530233/Crass-Sexisim-in-Route-Names
Title: Re: Chosster's Last Stand
Post by: mynameismud on November 18, 2014, 05:12:25 PM
well I have no desire to be a SNAG ( Sensitive New Age Geezer ) so I am going with my original post that it is a good route name.  Plus Clint seems to insinuate that crass is good so it absolutely has to be good.

Title: Re: Chosster's Last Stand
Post by: waldo on November 19, 2014, 06:47:35 AM
Yes, but other parts of Godzilla's anatomy might become fair name game.