MudNCrud Forums

Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: clink on November 29, 2014, 08:23:35 AM

Title: Rituals and magic.
Post by: clink on November 29, 2014, 08:23:35 AM
 Great experiences are sometimes hard to put into words. I shared one yesterday with Aaron. The project is 140ft higher and a major suspect large chockstone has been safely bypassed.
 None of the new ground gained was near as hard as the lower squeeze crux in the bottleneck. We were surprised with solid rock and good holds at a steep and committing section that went at 5.7 to another chimney with a bomber human sized skull shaped chockstone to protect 5.5 chimneying leading to light and escape from the depths of the lower labyrinth. We put our headlamps away and continued up to a split in possible direction , exploring both ways a bit before heading down. The moonlit trail was cool, short days and early night has it's beauty.
 
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: JC w KC redux on November 29, 2014, 01:55:56 PM
I've been told passing stones is very painful.
I did something new yesterday but not an FA.
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: JC w KC redux on November 29, 2014, 02:44:40 PM
The project is 140ft higher and a major suspect large chockstone has been safely bypassed.

On further reflection - does that mean a major suspect chockstone still looms in some kind of danger zone since you bypassed it?
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: Aaron McDonald on November 29, 2014, 07:03:56 PM
Clink,

What an amazing day!  Cannot believe that route went to the top.  It seemed grim after I got to the bypass belay with you.  I can now say that I have stood on Godzilla's testicle and lived.  I am still in shock that the rock quality actually improved.  Great job!

John preforming bypass surgery...

(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-3KsP2Nyu2VA/VHqGKHeWrBI/AAAAAAAAadM/kaK9ZdGOi5A/w535-h951-no/20141128_113743.jpg)

Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: Aaron McDonald on November 29, 2014, 07:07:56 PM
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-3_lYup9daqk/VHqGKHfgMdI/AAAAAAAAadM/LicySQfMxPY/w1598-h899-no/20141128_113838.jpg)

Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: Aaron McDonald on November 29, 2014, 07:08:27 PM
Having survived the depths of Hell, Dante and Virgil ascend out of the undergloom...
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-IDIwNBC0xf0/VHqGKN5cIxI/AAAAAAAAadM/bMm-Pku6Y94/w535-h951-no/20141128_140317.jpg)
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: Aaron McDonald on November 29, 2014, 07:08:50 PM
and miles to go before we sleep
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-sdoOQH5QySY/VHqGKDP-7WI/AAAAAAAAadM/zlgprR1yWA8/w1598-h899-no/20141128_142606.jpg)
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: mungeclimber on November 29, 2014, 07:50:13 PM
So many great name possibilities!
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: mynameismud on November 29, 2014, 08:44:23 PM
looks awesome
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: clink on November 29, 2014, 09:57:07 PM
Quote
On further reflection - does that mean a major suspect chockstone still looms in some kind of danger zone since you bypassed it?

It is still there, but you don't touch it until both you and your belayer are above and to the right, out of the catastrophic danger zone. JC, we are at the beginning of that water-chute you were eyeing, that goes up the north side of what I call the Chosstrum.

Quote
So many great name possibilities!

More names and enough route possibilities to interest all of the MoM's for years.

There is a lot climbing to be done, hope you guys can join us for the upper sections.
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: mungeclimber on November 29, 2014, 10:39:27 PM
Sounds wild. I'd love to come check it out. Only have one day next weekend. Lots of folks going West Side.
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: JC w KC redux on November 30, 2014, 10:17:25 AM
It is still there, but you don't touch it until both you and your belayer are above and to the right, out of the catastrophic danger zone. JC, we are at the beginning of that water-chute you were eyeing, that goes up the north side of what I call the Chosstrum.

There is a lot climbing to be done, hope you guys can join us for the upper sections.

We definitely want to get in on that.

This tasty water chute?

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3em8BthnRwgHWafxhpG6wkIBGSM_ZnYGRRZt3Pld2WTl1gEdGCXs5UUw_ouJz_gS2Eg7CSuJcRvSwiqp7BSlpIumUsM-KuXp_EAunlTQze23A6qrVfKx6gU-xZk9pqJz_Bw9Ntc0rR4gjPweOVTUkUp=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)



I finally got to do this one Friday with Kat (Lonely Sheepherder pitch 2). She couldn't quit talking about how fun it was :)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cJIdjc10gA2nj7I-Y021xhvwRm-V39SSgAToO2l6qx4SjJQBR7i22jPpC8yzlYZVYY6bSoM8N2bts_h_6Jza_gz5HDysYgXJIuK7Rggkm0WcmI0XB3DUlyq9LiN_oIfpS8zwWoxHXOYeeE6trK5dQt=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: clink on November 30, 2014, 05:39:55 PM
 We will see how this rain and the weekend play out. Munge, what day works? Brad and Waldo I'm sure will be notified of any excursions up to work higher.
 JC, that chute is on the next tower on the up and right-side split, via another flare or a cool looking variation that may or may not connect, that Aaron found. The left-side split I saw has a weakness, (similar looking to Waldo) that diagonals up and left and joins a chute not in that pic, above a rotten band. May be a little steeper also. There are couple dozen pinnacles, faces and chimneys in this immediate area.
 Saw and climbed with some of the MoM's at the gym today. I think Caleb is going to get sponsored by Hello Kitty.

Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: Brad Young on November 30, 2014, 06:13:53 PM

...I think Caleb is going to get sponsored by Hello Kitty.


To call you cruel is just touching the surface.
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: mungeclimber on November 30, 2014, 06:40:56 PM
Sunday
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: clink on December 01, 2014, 06:49:34 AM
Quote
To call you cruel is just touching the surface.
Yes, at times.
 Caleb's family spends the weekend with us, cut Christmas trees... We put him on a 5.11 outside/laybacking corner climb that kicked the rest of our butts, and he pulls it without a fall. He finds all 4 of my outside cats and talks and cuddles with them. He climbs off the couch like no one else, is a terrific dad and great husband. The guy is amazing and at times a little weird(he doesn't drink coffee or beer). I really do love him and his family. 

 Happy Holiday Cheer!

 Watching the weather for Sunday, Munge.

 
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: waldo on December 02, 2014, 08:33:30 PM
Clink,

You guys were in deep!  That was an amazing adventure!  Rituals and Magic?  Shoot me an email if and when I might be useful -

Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: clink on December 03, 2014, 06:49:33 AM
Quote
Rituals and Magic?

Every time we enter the labyrinth, we have have to battle and kill this creature. When we return it is alive and the we have to kill it again. It's name is Fear.

Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: clink on December 03, 2014, 06:55:22 AM
Bob, do you like chimneying? We were wondering you are an aficionado? Or do you only tolerate them?
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: Killer K on December 03, 2014, 03:55:17 PM
Hello All,

I'll post here too because it seems somewhat relevant. I wanna climb Sunday. Is one day of dry weather enough to not damage the routes? (never been to the Pinns)

Totally stoked. Thanks for any info.

Kelley
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: mynameismud on December 03, 2014, 04:28:17 PM
Hi and welcome to the forum.  With harder routes we typically give the routes 2 or 3 days of Sun to dry out.  Some of the easier routes really do not need much time.  The rock is definitely more fragile when well soaked. 
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: Aaron McDonald on December 03, 2014, 04:57:36 PM
Agreed.  Might not be the best time for a first visit to Pinns if you want to go climbing.
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: mynameismud on December 03, 2014, 05:00:44 PM
Everyday is a good day for a good first visit.
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: waldo on December 04, 2014, 04:04:55 PM
Bob, do you like chimneying? We were wondering you are an aficionado? Or do you only tolerate them?

Clink,  I used to be quite good with the wider ones, though I'm not the flexible kid I once was. I've got to warm up and take care of my right hamstring nowadays.
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: JC w KC redux on December 04, 2014, 06:42:10 PM
Hello All,
I'll post here too because it seems somewhat relevant. I wanna climb Sunday. Is one day of dry weather enough to not damage the routes? (never been to the Pinns)
Totally stoked. Thanks for any info.

Kelley

Kelley - I think you might like this one now that it's good and wet. No worries on preserving the rock :)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dPpJsWFc3Cj0YVAeV1cvPdX2VDmR1hXIym7xGGOAWfK2FaJChh9YzGogjFgcppgfL8tRmSpGwfj7Wg3_puCgH8mQJeTibE76IsH-42PYHtdi3yyGxn34QZncgiUtb5ugO71rjQ_KOYPz7-t7VL4Tlq=w700-h525-no?authuser=0)
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: clink on December 05, 2014, 08:23:15 PM
Quote
I used to be quite good with the wider ones

Bob, there is a lot of nice wide stuff.

Quote
Kelley - I think you might like this one now that it's good and wet

Kelley, I recommend climbing with JC. He will lead all that kind of scary, poorly (or not at all) protected crap for you. Take my and KC's word on it. ;D
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: Killer K on December 09, 2014, 09:57:20 AM
Went out on Sunday. Probably was the only dry place to climb in nor cal! Anyway I was blown away by the cave trail and the sheer beauty of the area. We climbed the center route on the first sister which was awesome. Then I backed off the beginning of the wet kiss at the disco wall. Then we had a little time left so we hit the tourist trap and did thrill hammer and wee little one. Had a blast. I've always wanted to climb out here since my dad told me of getting scared shitless in the late sixties when he climbed out here as a kid living in santa cruz.... Everything I've ever heard about the pinns was that it was a total choss pile and I strongly disagree. Sure theres loose rock but the uniqueness of the rock matrix is unlike anything I've climbed before. I'll definitely be coming back!
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: Brad Young on December 09, 2014, 10:27:45 AM

Went out on Sunday. Probably was the only dry place to climb in nor cal! Anyway I was blown away by the cave trail and the sheer beauty of the area. We climbed the center route on the first sister which was awesome. Then I backed off the beginning of the wet kiss at the disco wall. Then we had a little time left so we hit the tourist trap and did thrill hammer and wee little one. Had a blast. I've always wanted to climb out here since my dad told me of getting scared shitless in the late sixties when he climbed out here as a kid living in santa cruz.... Everything I've ever heard about the pinns was that it was a total choss pile and I strongly disagree. Sure theres loose rock but the uniqueness of the rock matrix is unlike anything I've climbed before. I'll definitely be coming back!


Nice. There's good rock and bad at Pinns, but for sure, adventure lives there still. Hopefully it always will.

(And by the way, the only place I've ever gotten hurt climbing because of bad rock was in Yosemite Valley - go figure.)
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: mynameismud on December 09, 2014, 07:56:32 PM
good to hear you enjoyed it.
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: clink on December 10, 2014, 05:21:05 AM
Quote
I've always wanted to climb out here since my dad told me of getting scared shitless in the late sixties when he climbed out here as a kid living in santa cruz.... Everything I've ever heard about the pinns was that it was a total choss pile and I strongly disagree.

 There are really cool and extremely crappy routes. Climbing at the Pinns gets in your blood. In your case there may have been a genetic transfer from your dad.
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: clink on January 19, 2015, 07:06:56 AM
JC, Nelkins and I climbed via Meanderthal to the "cockpit" where we added a second belay bolt. Nelkins persevered through a stem stance, then up a wild slimey flare, to this years high point halfway up the chimney above. A perfectly clear, small pool of water formed in the middle of the cockpit.

 Thanks for a great day exploring guys. Aaron will be proud of your work. Hope this stokes your dreams for what's to follow after the closures are lifted.
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: waldo on January 19, 2015, 06:23:12 PM
 The left-side split I saw has a weakness, (similar looking to Waldo) that diagonals up and left and joins a chute not in that pic, above a rotten band. May be a little steeper also.

[/quote]

I'd be very careful with any weakness that looks like me!
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: NOAL on January 19, 2015, 08:22:25 PM
Quote
Hope this stokes your dreams for what's to follow after the closures are lifted.
Yep, all through out the day I have been thinking "hmmm...what's past those chockstones where the tree is poking out?"
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: mungeclimber on January 19, 2015, 08:58:10 PM
More pics!
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: Brad Young on January 19, 2015, 09:27:11 PM

 Yep, all through out the day I have been thinking "hmmm...what's past those chockstones where the tree is poking out?"


And, unless you can get up there and find out in the next 2 1/2 hours, you'll have to wait months.

Gavin announcing closures in 4... 3... 2... 1....

Rob, I TRed that face that you did on the west side of Bynum's Spire today. It felt remarkably like a short version of Aliens Ate My Buick, but with not-as-good rock. I'd call it 5.10b (no stars). Any thoughts on a name yet (tried to call you on my way home, but didn't reach you).
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: NOAL on January 19, 2015, 09:43:41 PM
Quote
And, unless you can get up there and find out in the next 2 1/2 hours, you'll have to wait months.
ARRRRGHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: mungeclimber on January 19, 2015, 10:13:27 PM

Rob, I TRed that face that you did on the west side of Bynum's Spire today. It felt remarkably like a short version of Aliens Ate My Buick, but with not-as-good rock. I'd call it 5.10b (no stars). Any thoughts on a name yet (tried to call you on my way home, but didn't reach you).

I remember bad rock on it, kind of steep below the top, and kind of short.

How about a...

"A Play in Three Acts"

Since it's short (3 or so moves), a Toprope (play), and it's a great place to hang out and play and climb.

FA = unknown. I'm sure we weren't the first ones to TR it or the East arête.

Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: clink on January 19, 2015, 11:08:43 PM
Quote
FA = unknown. I'm sure we weren't the first ones to TR it or the East arête.

The FA hasn't been done yet. It is like a 2 year old claiming to have run a marathon after being pushed 26.2 miles in a stroller.
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: mungeclimber on January 19, 2015, 11:14:05 PM
correction

"FTR = unknown"
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: clink on January 20, 2015, 07:05:48 AM
 I was explaining to JC how earlier this week Geoff Norris went on a tirade about how absolutely a TR is NOT a FA. A FA is ONLY ground up. It was quite entertaining, as he was SO serious.
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: Brad Young on January 20, 2015, 07:42:15 AM
But a TR is a first ascent, it's just not a very good one. It's not a lead, and thus not a "real" route, but it is an ascent.

And where, as here, it's done accidentally (they thought they were on a different, already existing route), and the climbing is pretty poor (lots of that sun-baked looseness) and not worth bolting, it should probably stay that way.

Your memory of the route is pretty good, although the difficult part is significantly more than three moves.

We'll call it then "A Play in Three Acts."
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: mynameismud on January 20, 2015, 08:13:25 AM
It can be argued that a TR is perhaps a better ascent since there is less trace left behind.  I really see a TR as a perfectly acceptable form of ascent especially if there is a viable way to get to the summit.
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: JC w KC redux on January 20, 2015, 10:27:01 AM
More pics!

Noal leads the 5.7 section on p5 up into what clink is calling the cockpit - complete with kiddy pool.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eP016it26LQrYkiOA4Qb3839MhNMt_YsEzc9lmxmny4SUdzKe7dfY2hl4iLuh0CHkDj32cT_TWiP7GDvEkAL2j7oqT1-UZV235raEdclxMh-Vvybh1Jh8zoe3NCVcLHmG6H2sh2SYOz-hdDI0xFWFA=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)



Noal assumes a brutal drill stance in the cockpit

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eZSqhNfN07x4f3uqwypw--YzcpwJ5_8d9GGKYf90YbDLKEytp_efQT9rtaZakgaxSiuOVvwKLYsgdVjzjY9pPWG_KS9Jn4RcQsOnikTp-eHnHTMgQbG7ErtocHbuv3l1Nu4QzUFRer_E8mZulGU4o_=w834-h625-no?authuser=0)



Noal climbed up and down about 10 times to get the bolt in...

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cj-HWxFT1rITIyg5lnLTeHBPh9LWx-cyMOE_y294UKOMEpkTWIR4WuCBt42xJ2C7Ve5KOhP8vl8YCasN0xb8h3uoKqJt9Aec6tEK1PMi5BxY8eA4XLSJ2kQSgEuM5BVGYEZzhJF8aVoQnx5-GHJ0Ph=w834-h625-no?authuser=0)



Then he did some burly (and slimy) moves to get past the bolt and into the next section...

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3c9Y6vhdwA7L8LkjHVMO_iaabYQmBCU4_Z6T__I-krnUZw8qi7pCRGoUoeUUuT_ym7ftasJCh_WdPkFadTBks9R0ZTT54fAV5sLp_7Rqhxta0Nx-uEP_Ldnfu85TAo3uDCdM5UR45dZJMdCjIAE1ObK=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)



End of the day

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cp6tugWQZYHfMUG5TKEYU8P_h6HFEtMgaDR_vaF1rRAUt_nG8kBVhGIvFlgZGuiQRsoPoEobKUFynK2BmdkF9B8mN7Ffb8VqsYYzB_mlrhiIufeUBTzgA0E2TWauHCU9nsqZsKpYmLJIc4mLBVwUm4=w834-h625-no?authuser=0)

Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: mungeclimber on January 20, 2015, 10:56:48 AM
outstanding!
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: mynameismud on January 20, 2015, 12:21:59 PM
Sweet
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: NOAL on January 20, 2015, 12:52:31 PM
Thanks for taking and posting photos John.  I had no idea I had my shoes clipped to my harness.  The selfie photo of the three of us is my favorite. It really caught the mood of the day.  Did the ones of Jon following the flare turn out O.K?
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: JC w KC redux on January 20, 2015, 02:20:14 PM
Thanks for taking and posting photos John.  I had no idea I had my shoes clipped to my harness.  The selfie photo of the three of us is my favorite. It really caught the mood of the day.  Did the ones of Jon following the flare turn out O.K?

No problem. Jon took quite a few of them. The one of him following wasn't very good - needed to be back further - not underneath. Maybe if I'd had an inner tube to float in the kiddie pool :)
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: clink on January 20, 2015, 05:34:06 PM
"A sunbeam of truth needs to shine upon the subject of top ropes being considered a first ascent. Top ropes as first ascents, are worse style than rap bolting"-Geoff Norris 1/20/2015  
beer in hand.

 I nodded my head in agreement, stuffing more sweet potato fries in my mouth.

 What to do?
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: mungeclimber on January 20, 2015, 06:12:20 PM
Proclamations do not a rule, make.


Heavy pondering over pints is required.
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: clink on January 20, 2015, 06:13:54 PM
Fetuses and top ropes, unborn.

Here is fetus soap, use to get clean feeling after a hard day of top roping virgin rock.

Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: clink on January 20, 2015, 06:16:00 PM
Quote
Proclamations do not a rule, make.

Nice one Yoda. May the force not the farce be with us.
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: clink on January 20, 2015, 06:21:05 PM
To be or not to be? The question is, how do you chop a route that isn't there?

Frustrating.
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: mynameismud on January 20, 2015, 06:37:46 PM
I will pass on the soap, thank you.

The guy is well, sometime when not in a online permanently archive situation and I have a beer in hand, ask we what I really think.

Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: clink on January 20, 2015, 07:14:58 PM
WE are being archived? Oops.


                                             >:D
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: Brad Young on January 20, 2015, 08:56:06 PM
And by the way, I sure hope the name of the route (when it is done) is going to be Rituals and Magic. That's a great name.
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: JC w KC redux on January 20, 2015, 10:04:38 PM
It's The Labyrinth.
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: mungeclimber on January 20, 2015, 11:38:26 PM
First I sniff my boot, and absorb it's tectonic powers.

Then, the magic smell is delivered after the sacramental mcbiscuit is consumed.

More pics?
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: clink on January 21, 2015, 06:00:31 AM
Quote
First I sniff my boot, and absorb it's tectonic powers.

Then, the magic smell is delivered after the sacramental mcbiscuit is consumed.

Take out ritual? How 'bout dine in?
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: clink on January 22, 2015, 06:46:29 AM
Quote
And by the way, I sure hope the name of the route (when it is done) is going to be Rituals and Magic. That's a great name.

Quote
It's The Labyrinth.

Labyrinth may end up describing the lower section. Rituals and Magic is a great name(as is Shake and Bake). Whatever it gets stamped, Aaron will be the one to sign off on it. He calls the deep chimney with dim light "The Chamber".

Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: JC w KC redux on January 22, 2015, 09:28:02 AM
Labyrinth may end up describing the lower section. Rituals and Magic is a great name. Whatever it gets stamped, Aaron will be the one to sign off on it. He calls the deep chimney with dim light "The Chamber".

Dungeons and Dragons
Godzilla Meets Swamp Thing
Plank Across the Back Side
Masters of Mayhem
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: Brad Young on January 22, 2015, 09:29:24 AM
A long time favorite:

-  Conquistadors of the Useless
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: clink on January 22, 2015, 09:58:18 AM
Quote
Plank Across the Back Side

Let's not go there :)
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: Brad Young on November 10, 2019, 05:33:22 PM
Great name. Imaginative route. I think 5.9 ** and very worth doing.

Would not have wanted to lead that crux pitch wet or with one less bolt (much less with both conditions!!). That’s impressive too.

BAP is tough.

Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: NOAL on November 10, 2019, 07:39:25 PM
I never saw the top/end of that route.  Where does it end and what do you see?
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: Brad Young on November 10, 2019, 08:00:06 PM
It ends at a two bolt anchor just above the highest chockstone. Another ten feet of easy fifth above the bolts leads to the tops of big boulders. Behind there is a fairly level area with a forest of oaks and a short distance behind that a massive forest of poison oak.
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: Brad Young on November 10, 2019, 08:02:07 PM
The total length of that pitch, to that anchor, is 65 feet.
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: NOAL on November 10, 2019, 08:19:49 PM
Thanks. Now I can sleep at night.
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: JC w KC redux on November 10, 2019, 08:32:31 PM
Great name. Imaginative route. I think 5.9 ** and very worth doing.
Would not have wanted to lead that crux pitch wet or with one less bolt (much less with both conditions!!). That’s impressive too.

No way that crux in the V slot is 5.9
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: Brad Young on November 10, 2019, 08:46:17 PM

No way that crux in the V slot is 5.9


It’s straightforward, but slightly  slanty  chimneying and it could be 5.8. But it seemed a little harder than the lower, 5.8 crux and similar to the crux of Fifi Wears Lycra. I think 5.9 is the right grade.
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: clink on November 11, 2019, 10:35:43 AM

 Harder when wet. I remember Noal's slimed out FA well.
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: NOAL on November 11, 2019, 06:25:01 PM
Quote
 I remember Noal's slimed out FA well.

Ah yes, I also recall the delightful afternoon we spent in the Swamp Vag.  Such dirty, wet, hard drillin' excitement.   >:D
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: Brad Young on November 11, 2019, 06:57:55 PM
Two words:

Totally bone dry.

Actually we may have done the first ever not slimy ascent  ::)

Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: JC w KC redux on November 11, 2019, 07:07:41 PM

Hang a Slippery When Wet sign at the entrance.
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: clink on November 12, 2019, 08:21:04 AM

 Catchy new route name Noal. Brad wouldn't publish it though. Gulliver's Before Unmentioned Travels
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: JC w KC redux on November 12, 2019, 08:53:01 AM
Two words:
Totally bone dry.

I demand a recount!
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: Brad Young on November 13, 2019, 12:49:09 PM
Thanks, Clink.

I'm trying to get work done here and suddenly, from outside my office, I hear Ellen laughing very loudly.

I walk out, half-amused, to check on the humor. She's slightly red-faced and laughing at the rock feature "Godzilla's Testicle." Where do you come up with this sh#t?

You're distracting my staff.
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: clink on November 13, 2019, 01:56:20 PM
From hanging out with the other Meanderthals  :)
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: Brad Young on November 13, 2019, 06:06:08 PM
All photos by Clink.

Start of the first pitch:

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49058065651_4704ca5f20_c.jpg)


The only truly run-out section of the route is the 5.5 squeeze chimney at the top of pitch four:

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49057554368_36d782a56d_c.jpg)


(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49058289487_a122eb5e80_c.jpg)


What happens on the approach to people who make snarky comments about someone's legs:

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49057554293_f4cf61c642_c.jpg)


Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: Zay on December 08, 2019, 10:33:24 PM
Oh man, headlamps mandatory? Chimney after chimney? Dudes has thing thing seen a second?
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: JC w KC redux on December 13, 2019, 12:37:36 PM
Oh man, headlamps mandatory? Chimney after chimney? Dudes has thing thing seen a second?

Hay Zay,

I'm not sure about thing thing and as far as I know Brad's ascent was the coveted 2nd ascent.

He and clink did a pitch a week later to connect up with Feather Canyon while Gavin and I climbed Cornflake and Where's Waldo.

Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: Brad Young on November 24, 2020, 08:30:50 AM
This thread should become relevant again....
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: TJMoynagh on December 03, 2020, 06:04:14 PM
Kudos to the teams that put up Meanderthal and Rituals and Magic. We climbed them both a few Sundays ago and could not be more stoked to find such a grand chimneying adventure at the Pinnacles!!! I thought the ratings were right on and most of the rock was pretty solid, even better after the removal of some pesky moss. The route description for R & M was spot on as well - no topo required.

Keep putting up these awesome routes!!

Todd


(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3czsgguLWOfpPrDo-lKrp2KQQhbcobXE8OrZN1-U9DT8LDZLNy_U_kP7orZVo6Jt4qMbbLkqbyCPzSIyEuIkL0DsToof1jEjhs6vU1K5uZ2islquBdeqIuhDbhPZTVrVP0kdi5xc_Pc1zYmu3sP1jm1=w688-h916-no?authuser=0)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dSLVEAX_otkS2AbuDniFPl1iIPDrrCW1dgwFvSHqRObk5S0Pw7vpmas1cg-lKLuyC5hkjTw--mg6gItdwLuoubbQjfn1E3HdpNouk01gWJ5SjV1E-5q_KC-G9GyRY9KDy7H8ljkVn-n0_IXMFpeGg0=w688-h916-no?authuser=0)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3ebxRTpyP1Smjy3z_jTN7bmxFRAgs3FPge9kPdKzI0WCLryyNv58KqLikL8yJWvL-oJGe593bhQyPRJwLe31UnPMYKNHecmSP9vf9S5KYJGL8TfmqykqJBXba3ae0jeGBWTEmyCj8lIgiQ_LV8c1UFl=w688-h916-no?authuser=0)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fGZV4XCQIP-LKWJjIve5pn40vhodWN05q0qq6kyX-LHPSKiANuUrmLcAfBrDgu6brON-6yCtkXiokGVWso2RajyYf4rNgCDtUJWUVC_OpAiSy7jmXOJH7pUoflVPoiFqsRmkTeu-Q0PzgSdrUI7hhw=w688-h916-no?authuser=0)

Thanks JC for the photo tips!
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: Brad Young on December 03, 2020, 06:46:46 PM
Both routes in one day. Impressive, Todd and Justin. It's no wonder that Bob and I saw you hiking out by moonlight too (although you'd at least broken down and gotten your headlamps out...).

Keep repeating the new routes and giving feedback!



Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: mynameismud on December 03, 2020, 06:52:46 PM
Very nice first post. 
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: NOAL on December 03, 2020, 10:44:29 PM
Clink and Aaron really found a gem.  Nice to see someone climbing the new routes! 
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: F4? on December 04, 2020, 09:18:51 AM
where is it?/
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: Brad Young on December 04, 2020, 10:07:02 AM
Pinnacles.
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: F4? on December 04, 2020, 11:56:51 AM
wonderful

any general area in particular?
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: JC w KC redux on December 04, 2020, 03:44:52 PM
wonderful
any general area in particular?

New routes list
564.24  Rituals and Magic  5.9 **
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: F4? on December 04, 2020, 05:47:44 PM
Getting closer.....where is the new route list.

Has the route been soloed?

Just PM me....
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: JC w KC redux on December 04, 2020, 09:14:37 PM
Thanks JC for the photo tips!

No problem.
I see it worked  :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod: :ihih:
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: Brad Young on December 05, 2020, 07:52:14 PM
Todd, nice job with reformatting the photos. Sounds like you had near professional help  ;)  Good photos too.

Posting them the first/ weird way did at least follow in the footsteps of a MudnCrud wanna be legend.
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: Gavin on December 06, 2020, 05:48:47 AM
Nice Todd - glad to hear you two are enjoying some of the new routes at the park!
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: JC w KC redux on December 06, 2020, 07:31:17 AM
Posting them the first/ weird way did at least follow in the footsteps of a MudnCrud wanna be legend.

Ahem. The dude is a legend - and he has threatened to take a lesson from the professorial help but has yet to follow through.
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: Zay on December 02, 2021, 08:21:31 AM
Elliott and I climbed Rituals and Magic yesterday. It was a blast. We got lost on the approach, right after the 40 ft of 3rd-4th class boulders...

Placed one black totem twice, and a #4 once. Didnt see many other good options for gear.

Having done feather canyon before saved the day, when we almost committed ourselves to the wrong (meanderthal?) Gulley... then i noticed the massive flake that makes feather canyon's second pitch.

The route was overall a more serious endeavor than feather canyon IMO. More chimneys, loose rock, the crux chimneys were a good (albeit short) grunt.

Total time on route was 2.5 hours.

High praise for the adventurous spirit that drove te first ascentionists into this unique and bizarre terrain.
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: Brad Young on December 02, 2021, 08:33:37 AM
Nice work guys.

Two questions:

- Did you need a headlamp;

- Was it dry (I suspect so since the only rains in months were weeks ago).

Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: Zay on December 02, 2021, 08:45:18 AM
I think headlamps were pretty critical, mostly for the second 5.8 chimney... however i suspect that if someone messed up and forgot their headlamps... it would be DOABLE but pretty hard.

Bone dry. Weather has been beautiful
Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: Brad Young on December 02, 2021, 09:14:44 AM
I tried that second pitch, 5.8 chimney without a headlamp. I could NOT see my feet and just could not get going. And Jon, who was with us that first time I was at that spot, told us that there was more light that day there than he had seen before.

Title: Re: Rituals and magic.
Post by: mungeclimber on December 02, 2021, 09:31:30 AM
TFPU!