MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: clink on November 29, 2014, 08:23:35 AM
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Great experiences are sometimes hard to put into words. I shared one yesterday with Aaron. The project is 140ft higher and a major suspect large chockstone has been safely bypassed.
None of the new ground gained was near as hard as the lower squeeze crux in the bottleneck. We were surprised with solid rock and good holds at a steep and committing section that went at 5.7 to another chimney with a bomber human sized skull shaped chockstone to protect 5.5 chimneying leading to light and escape from the depths of the lower labyrinth. We put our headlamps away and continued up to a split in possible direction , exploring both ways a bit before heading down. The moonlit trail was cool, short days and early night has it's beauty.
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I've been told passing stones is very painful.
I did something new yesterday but not an FA.
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The project is 140ft higher and a major suspect large chockstone has been safely bypassed.
On further reflection - does that mean a major suspect chockstone still looms in some kind of danger zone since you bypassed it?
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Clink,
What an amazing day! Cannot believe that route went to the top. It seemed grim after I got to the bypass belay with you. I can now say that I have stood on Godzilla's testicle and lived. I am still in shock that the rock quality actually improved. Great job!
John preforming bypass surgery...
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-3KsP2Nyu2VA/VHqGKHeWrBI/AAAAAAAAadM/kaK9ZdGOi5A/w535-h951-no/20141128_113743.jpg)
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(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-3_lYup9daqk/VHqGKHfgMdI/AAAAAAAAadM/LicySQfMxPY/w1598-h899-no/20141128_113838.jpg)
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Having survived the depths of Hell, Dante and Virgil ascend out of the undergloom...
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-IDIwNBC0xf0/VHqGKN5cIxI/AAAAAAAAadM/bMm-Pku6Y94/w535-h951-no/20141128_140317.jpg)
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and miles to go before we sleep
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-sdoOQH5QySY/VHqGKDP-7WI/AAAAAAAAadM/zlgprR1yWA8/w1598-h899-no/20141128_142606.jpg)
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So many great name possibilities!
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looks awesome
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On further reflection - does that mean a major suspect chockstone still looms in some kind of danger zone since you bypassed it?
It is still there, but you don't touch it until both you and your belayer are above and to the right, out of the catastrophic danger zone. JC, we are at the beginning of that water-chute you were eyeing, that goes up the north side of what I call the Chosstrum.
So many great name possibilities!
More names and enough route possibilities to interest all of the MoM's for years.
There is a lot climbing to be done, hope you guys can join us for the upper sections.
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Sounds wild. I'd love to come check it out. Only have one day next weekend. Lots of folks going West Side.
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It is still there, but you don't touch it until both you and your belayer are above and to the right, out of the catastrophic danger zone. JC, we are at the beginning of that water-chute you were eyeing, that goes up the north side of what I call the Chosstrum.
There is a lot climbing to be done, hope you guys can join us for the upper sections.
We definitely want to get in on that.
This tasty water chute?
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3em8BthnRwgHWafxhpG6wkIBGSM_ZnYGRRZt3Pld2WTl1gEdGCXs5UUw_ouJz_gS2Eg7CSuJcRvSwiqp7BSlpIumUsM-KuXp_EAunlTQze23A6qrVfKx6gU-xZk9pqJz_Bw9Ntc0rR4gjPweOVTUkUp=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
I finally got to do this one Friday with Kat (Lonely Sheepherder pitch 2). She couldn't quit talking about how fun it was :)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cJIdjc10gA2nj7I-Y021xhvwRm-V39SSgAToO2l6qx4SjJQBR7i22jPpC8yzlYZVYY6bSoM8N2bts_h_6Jza_gz5HDysYgXJIuK7Rggkm0WcmI0XB3DUlyq9LiN_oIfpS8zwWoxHXOYeeE6trK5dQt=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
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We will see how this rain and the weekend play out. Munge, what day works? Brad and Waldo I'm sure will be notified of any excursions up to work higher.
JC, that chute is on the next tower on the up and right-side split, via another flare or a cool looking variation that may or may not connect, that Aaron found. The left-side split I saw has a weakness, (similar looking to Waldo) that diagonals up and left and joins a chute not in that pic, above a rotten band. May be a little steeper also. There are couple dozen pinnacles, faces and chimneys in this immediate area.
Saw and climbed with some of the MoM's at the gym today. I think Caleb is going to get sponsored by Hello Kitty.
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...I think Caleb is going to get sponsored by Hello Kitty.
To call you cruel is just touching the surface.
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Sunday
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To call you cruel is just touching the surface.
Yes, at times.
Caleb's family spends the weekend with us, cut Christmas trees... We put him on a 5.11 outside/laybacking corner climb that kicked the rest of our butts, and he pulls it without a fall. He finds all 4 of my outside cats and talks and cuddles with them. He climbs off the couch like no one else, is a terrific dad and great husband. The guy is amazing and at times a little weird(he doesn't drink coffee or beer). I really do love him and his family.
Happy Holiday Cheer!
Watching the weather for Sunday, Munge.
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Clink,
You guys were in deep! That was an amazing adventure! Rituals and Magic? Shoot me an email if and when I might be useful -
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Rituals and Magic?
Every time we enter the labyrinth, we have have to battle and kill this creature. When we return it is alive and the we have to kill it again. It's name is Fear.
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Bob, do you like chimneying? We were wondering you are an aficionado? Or do you only tolerate them?
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Hello All,
I'll post here too because it seems somewhat relevant. I wanna climb Sunday. Is one day of dry weather enough to not damage the routes? (never been to the Pinns)
Totally stoked. Thanks for any info.
Kelley
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Hi and welcome to the forum. With harder routes we typically give the routes 2 or 3 days of Sun to dry out. Some of the easier routes really do not need much time. The rock is definitely more fragile when well soaked.
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Agreed. Might not be the best time for a first visit to Pinns if you want to go climbing.
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Everyday is a good day for a good first visit.
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Bob, do you like chimneying? We were wondering you are an aficionado? Or do you only tolerate them?
Clink, I used to be quite good with the wider ones, though I'm not the flexible kid I once was. I've got to warm up and take care of my right hamstring nowadays.
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Hello All,
I'll post here too because it seems somewhat relevant. I wanna climb Sunday. Is one day of dry weather enough to not damage the routes? (never been to the Pinns)
Totally stoked. Thanks for any info.
Kelley
Kelley - I think you might like this one now that it's good and wet. No worries on preserving the rock :)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dPpJsWFc3Cj0YVAeV1cvPdX2VDmR1hXIym7xGGOAWfK2FaJChh9YzGogjFgcppgfL8tRmSpGwfj7Wg3_puCgH8mQJeTibE76IsH-42PYHtdi3yyGxn34QZncgiUtb5ugO71rjQ_KOYPz7-t7VL4Tlq=w700-h525-no?authuser=0)
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I used to be quite good with the wider ones
Bob, there is a lot of nice wide stuff.
Kelley - I think you might like this one now that it's good and wet
Kelley, I recommend climbing with JC. He will lead all that kind of scary, poorly (or not at all) protected crap for you. Take my and KC's word on it. ;D
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Went out on Sunday. Probably was the only dry place to climb in nor cal! Anyway I was blown away by the cave trail and the sheer beauty of the area. We climbed the center route on the first sister which was awesome. Then I backed off the beginning of the wet kiss at the disco wall. Then we had a little time left so we hit the tourist trap and did thrill hammer and wee little one. Had a blast. I've always wanted to climb out here since my dad told me of getting scared shitless in the late sixties when he climbed out here as a kid living in santa cruz.... Everything I've ever heard about the pinns was that it was a total choss pile and I strongly disagree. Sure theres loose rock but the uniqueness of the rock matrix is unlike anything I've climbed before. I'll definitely be coming back!
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Went out on Sunday. Probably was the only dry place to climb in nor cal! Anyway I was blown away by the cave trail and the sheer beauty of the area. We climbed the center route on the first sister which was awesome. Then I backed off the beginning of the wet kiss at the disco wall. Then we had a little time left so we hit the tourist trap and did thrill hammer and wee little one. Had a blast. I've always wanted to climb out here since my dad told me of getting scared shitless in the late sixties when he climbed out here as a kid living in santa cruz.... Everything I've ever heard about the pinns was that it was a total choss pile and I strongly disagree. Sure theres loose rock but the uniqueness of the rock matrix is unlike anything I've climbed before. I'll definitely be coming back!
Nice. There's good rock and bad at Pinns, but for sure, adventure lives there still. Hopefully it always will.
(And by the way, the only place I've ever gotten hurt climbing because of bad rock was in Yosemite Valley - go figure.)
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good to hear you enjoyed it.
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I've always wanted to climb out here since my dad told me of getting scared shitless in the late sixties when he climbed out here as a kid living in santa cruz.... Everything I've ever heard about the pinns was that it was a total choss pile and I strongly disagree.
There are really cool and extremely crappy routes. Climbing at the Pinns gets in your blood. In your case there may have been a genetic transfer from your dad.
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JC, Nelkins and I climbed via Meanderthal to the "cockpit" where we added a second belay bolt. Nelkins persevered through a stem stance, then up a wild slimey flare, to this years high point halfway up the chimney above. A perfectly clear, small pool of water formed in the middle of the cockpit.
Thanks for a great day exploring guys. Aaron will be proud of your work. Hope this stokes your dreams for what's to follow after the closures are lifted.
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The left-side split I saw has a weakness, (similar looking to Waldo) that diagonals up and left and joins a chute not in that pic, above a rotten band. May be a little steeper also.
[/quote]
I'd be very careful with any weakness that looks like me!
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Hope this stokes your dreams for what's to follow after the closures are lifted.
Yep, all through out the day I have been thinking "hmmm...what's past those chockstones where the tree is poking out?"
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More pics!
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Yep, all through out the day I have been thinking "hmmm...what's past those chockstones where the tree is poking out?"
And, unless you can get up there and find out in the next 2 1/2 hours, you'll have to wait months.
Gavin announcing closures in 4... 3... 2... 1....
Rob, I TRed that face that you did on the west side of Bynum's Spire today. It felt remarkably like a short version of Aliens Ate My Buick, but with not-as-good rock. I'd call it 5.10b (no stars). Any thoughts on a name yet (tried to call you on my way home, but didn't reach you).
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And, unless you can get up there and find out in the next 2 1/2 hours, you'll have to wait months.
ARRRRGHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!
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Rob, I TRed that face that you did on the west side of Bynum's Spire today. It felt remarkably like a short version of Aliens Ate My Buick, but with not-as-good rock. I'd call it 5.10b (no stars). Any thoughts on a name yet (tried to call you on my way home, but didn't reach you).
I remember bad rock on it, kind of steep below the top, and kind of short.
How about a...
"A Play in Three Acts"
Since it's short (3 or so moves), a Toprope (play), and it's a great place to hang out and play and climb.
FA = unknown. I'm sure we weren't the first ones to TR it or the East arête.
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FA = unknown. I'm sure we weren't the first ones to TR it or the East arête.
The FA hasn't been done yet. It is like a 2 year old claiming to have run a marathon after being pushed 26.2 miles in a stroller.
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correction
"FTR = unknown"
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I was explaining to JC how earlier this week Geoff Norris went on a tirade about how absolutely a TR is NOT a FA. A FA is ONLY ground up. It was quite entertaining, as he was SO serious.
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But a TR is a first ascent, it's just not a very good one. It's not a lead, and thus not a "real" route, but it is an ascent.
And where, as here, it's done accidentally (they thought they were on a different, already existing route), and the climbing is pretty poor (lots of that sun-baked looseness) and not worth bolting, it should probably stay that way.
Your memory of the route is pretty good, although the difficult part is significantly more than three moves.
We'll call it then "A Play in Three Acts."
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It can be argued that a TR is perhaps a better ascent since there is less trace left behind. I really see a TR as a perfectly acceptable form of ascent especially if there is a viable way to get to the summit.
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More pics!
Noal leads the 5.7 section on p5 up into what clink is calling the cockpit - complete with kiddy pool.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eP016it26LQrYkiOA4Qb3839MhNMt_YsEzc9lmxmny4SUdzKe7dfY2hl4iLuh0CHkDj32cT_TWiP7GDvEkAL2j7oqT1-UZV235raEdclxMh-Vvybh1Jh8zoe3NCVcLHmG6H2sh2SYOz-hdDI0xFWFA=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
Noal assumes a brutal drill stance in the cockpit
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eZSqhNfN07x4f3uqwypw--YzcpwJ5_8d9GGKYf90YbDLKEytp_efQT9rtaZakgaxSiuOVvwKLYsgdVjzjY9pPWG_KS9Jn4RcQsOnikTp-eHnHTMgQbG7ErtocHbuv3l1Nu4QzUFRer_E8mZulGU4o_=w834-h625-no?authuser=0)
Noal climbed up and down about 10 times to get the bolt in...
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cj-HWxFT1rITIyg5lnLTeHBPh9LWx-cyMOE_y294UKOMEpkTWIR4WuCBt42xJ2C7Ve5KOhP8vl8YCasN0xb8h3uoKqJt9Aec6tEK1PMi5BxY8eA4XLSJ2kQSgEuM5BVGYEZzhJF8aVoQnx5-GHJ0Ph=w834-h625-no?authuser=0)
Then he did some burly (and slimy) moves to get past the bolt and into the next section...
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3c9Y6vhdwA7L8LkjHVMO_iaabYQmBCU4_Z6T__I-krnUZw8qi7pCRGoUoeUUuT_ym7ftasJCh_WdPkFadTBks9R0ZTT54fAV5sLp_7Rqhxta0Nx-uEP_Ldnfu85TAo3uDCdM5UR45dZJMdCjIAE1ObK=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
End of the day
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cp6tugWQZYHfMUG5TKEYU8P_h6HFEtMgaDR_vaF1rRAUt_nG8kBVhGIvFlgZGuiQRsoPoEobKUFynK2BmdkF9B8mN7Ffb8VqsYYzB_mlrhiIufeUBTzgA0E2TWauHCU9nsqZsKpYmLJIc4mLBVwUm4=w834-h625-no?authuser=0)
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outstanding!
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Sweet
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Thanks for taking and posting photos John. I had no idea I had my shoes clipped to my harness. The selfie photo of the three of us is my favorite. It really caught the mood of the day. Did the ones of Jon following the flare turn out O.K?
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Thanks for taking and posting photos John. I had no idea I had my shoes clipped to my harness. The selfie photo of the three of us is my favorite. It really caught the mood of the day. Did the ones of Jon following the flare turn out O.K?
No problem. Jon took quite a few of them. The one of him following wasn't very good - needed to be back further - not underneath. Maybe if I'd had an inner tube to float in the kiddie pool :)
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"A sunbeam of truth needs to shine upon the subject of top ropes being considered a first ascent. Top ropes as first ascents, are worse style than rap bolting"-Geoff Norris 1/20/2015
beer in hand.
I nodded my head in agreement, stuffing more sweet potato fries in my mouth.
What to do?
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Proclamations do not a rule, make.
Heavy pondering over pints is required.
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Fetuses and top ropes, unborn.
Here is fetus soap, use to get clean feeling after a hard day of top roping virgin rock.
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Proclamations do not a rule, make.
Nice one Yoda. May the force not the farce be with us.
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To be or not to be? The question is, how do you chop a route that isn't there?
Frustrating.
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I will pass on the soap, thank you.
The guy is well, sometime when not in a online permanently archive situation and I have a beer in hand, ask we what I really think.
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WE are being archived? Oops.
>:D
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And by the way, I sure hope the name of the route (when it is done) is going to be Rituals and Magic. That's a great name.
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It's The Labyrinth.
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First I sniff my boot, and absorb it's tectonic powers.
Then, the magic smell is delivered after the sacramental mcbiscuit is consumed.
More pics?
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First I sniff my boot, and absorb it's tectonic powers.
Then, the magic smell is delivered after the sacramental mcbiscuit is consumed.
Take out ritual? How 'bout dine in?
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And by the way, I sure hope the name of the route (when it is done) is going to be Rituals and Magic. That's a great name.
It's The Labyrinth.
Labyrinth may end up describing the lower section. Rituals and Magic is a great name(as is Shake and Bake). Whatever it gets stamped, Aaron will be the one to sign off on it. He calls the deep chimney with dim light "The Chamber".
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Labyrinth may end up describing the lower section. Rituals and Magic is a great name. Whatever it gets stamped, Aaron will be the one to sign off on it. He calls the deep chimney with dim light "The Chamber".
Dungeons and Dragons
Godzilla Meets Swamp Thing
Plank Across the Back Side
Masters of Mayhem
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A long time favorite:
- Conquistadors of the Useless
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Plank Across the Back Side
Let's not go there :)
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Great name. Imaginative route. I think 5.9 ** and very worth doing.
Would not have wanted to lead that crux pitch wet or with one less bolt (much less with both conditions!!). That’s impressive too.
BAP is tough.
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I never saw the top/end of that route. Where does it end and what do you see?
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It ends at a two bolt anchor just above the highest chockstone. Another ten feet of easy fifth above the bolts leads to the tops of big boulders. Behind there is a fairly level area with a forest of oaks and a short distance behind that a massive forest of poison oak.
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The total length of that pitch, to that anchor, is 65 feet.
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Thanks. Now I can sleep at night.
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Great name. Imaginative route. I think 5.9 ** and very worth doing.
Would not have wanted to lead that crux pitch wet or with one less bolt (much less with both conditions!!). That’s impressive too.
No way that crux in the V slot is 5.9
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No way that crux in the V slot is 5.9
It’s straightforward, but slightly slanty chimneying and it could be 5.8. But it seemed a little harder than the lower, 5.8 crux and similar to the crux of Fifi Wears Lycra. I think 5.9 is the right grade.
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Harder when wet. I remember Noal's slimed out FA well.
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I remember Noal's slimed out FA well.
Ah yes, I also recall the delightful afternoon we spent in the Swamp Vag. Such dirty, wet, hard drillin' excitement. >:D
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Two words:
Totally bone dry.
Actually we may have done the first ever not slimy ascent ::)
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Hang a Slippery When Wet sign at the entrance.
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Catchy new route name Noal. Brad wouldn't publish it though. Gulliver's Before Unmentioned Travels
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Two words:
Totally bone dry.
I demand a recount!
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Thanks, Clink.
I'm trying to get work done here and suddenly, from outside my office, I hear Ellen laughing very loudly.
I walk out, half-amused, to check on the humor. She's slightly red-faced and laughing at the rock feature "Godzilla's Testicle." Where do you come up with this sh#t?
You're distracting my staff.
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From hanging out with the other Meanderthals :)
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All photos by Clink.
Start of the first pitch:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49058065651_4704ca5f20_c.jpg)
The only truly run-out section of the route is the 5.5 squeeze chimney at the top of pitch four:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49057554368_36d782a56d_c.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49058289487_a122eb5e80_c.jpg)
What happens on the approach to people who make snarky comments about someone's legs:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49057554293_f4cf61c642_c.jpg)
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Oh man, headlamps mandatory? Chimney after chimney? Dudes has thing thing seen a second?
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Oh man, headlamps mandatory? Chimney after chimney? Dudes has thing thing seen a second?
Hay Zay,
I'm not sure about thing thing and as far as I know Brad's ascent was the coveted 2nd ascent.
He and clink did a pitch a week later to connect up with Feather Canyon while Gavin and I climbed Cornflake and Where's Waldo.
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This thread should become relevant again....
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Kudos to the teams that put up Meanderthal and Rituals and Magic. We climbed them both a few Sundays ago and could not be more stoked to find such a grand chimneying adventure at the Pinnacles!!! I thought the ratings were right on and most of the rock was pretty solid, even better after the removal of some pesky moss. The route description for R & M was spot on as well - no topo required.
Keep putting up these awesome routes!!
Todd
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3czsgguLWOfpPrDo-lKrp2KQQhbcobXE8OrZN1-U9DT8LDZLNy_U_kP7orZVo6Jt4qMbbLkqbyCPzSIyEuIkL0DsToof1jEjhs6vU1K5uZ2islquBdeqIuhDbhPZTVrVP0kdi5xc_Pc1zYmu3sP1jm1=w688-h916-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dSLVEAX_otkS2AbuDniFPl1iIPDrrCW1dgwFvSHqRObk5S0Pw7vpmas1cg-lKLuyC5hkjTw--mg6gItdwLuoubbQjfn1E3HdpNouk01gWJ5SjV1E-5q_KC-G9GyRY9KDy7H8ljkVn-n0_IXMFpeGg0=w688-h916-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3ebxRTpyP1Smjy3z_jTN7bmxFRAgs3FPge9kPdKzI0WCLryyNv58KqLikL8yJWvL-oJGe593bhQyPRJwLe31UnPMYKNHecmSP9vf9S5KYJGL8TfmqykqJBXba3ae0jeGBWTEmyCj8lIgiQ_LV8c1UFl=w688-h916-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fGZV4XCQIP-LKWJjIve5pn40vhodWN05q0qq6kyX-LHPSKiANuUrmLcAfBrDgu6brON-6yCtkXiokGVWso2RajyYf4rNgCDtUJWUVC_OpAiSy7jmXOJH7pUoflVPoiFqsRmkTeu-Q0PzgSdrUI7hhw=w688-h916-no?authuser=0)
Thanks JC for the photo tips!
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Both routes in one day. Impressive, Todd and Justin. It's no wonder that Bob and I saw you hiking out by moonlight too (although you'd at least broken down and gotten your headlamps out...).
Keep repeating the new routes and giving feedback!
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Very nice first post.
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Clink and Aaron really found a gem. Nice to see someone climbing the new routes!
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where is it?/
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Pinnacles.
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wonderful
any general area in particular?
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wonderful
any general area in particular?
New routes list
564.24 Rituals and Magic 5.9 **
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Getting closer.....where is the new route list.
Has the route been soloed?
Just PM me....
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Thanks JC for the photo tips!
No problem.
I see it worked :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod: :ihih:
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Todd, nice job with reformatting the photos. Sounds like you had near professional help ;) Good photos too.
Posting them the first/ weird way did at least follow in the footsteps of a MudnCrud wanna be legend.
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Nice Todd - glad to hear you two are enjoying some of the new routes at the park!
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Posting them the first/ weird way did at least follow in the footsteps of a MudnCrud wanna be legend.
Ahem. The dude is a legend - and he has threatened to take a lesson from the professorial help but has yet to follow through.
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Elliott and I climbed Rituals and Magic yesterday. It was a blast. We got lost on the approach, right after the 40 ft of 3rd-4th class boulders...
Placed one black totem twice, and a #4 once. Didnt see many other good options for gear.
Having done feather canyon before saved the day, when we almost committed ourselves to the wrong (meanderthal?) Gulley... then i noticed the massive flake that makes feather canyon's second pitch.
The route was overall a more serious endeavor than feather canyon IMO. More chimneys, loose rock, the crux chimneys were a good (albeit short) grunt.
Total time on route was 2.5 hours.
High praise for the adventurous spirit that drove te first ascentionists into this unique and bizarre terrain.
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Nice work guys.
Two questions:
- Did you need a headlamp;
- Was it dry (I suspect so since the only rains in months were weeks ago).
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I think headlamps were pretty critical, mostly for the second 5.8 chimney... however i suspect that if someone messed up and forgot their headlamps... it would be DOABLE but pretty hard.
Bone dry. Weather has been beautiful
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I tried that second pitch, 5.8 chimney without a headlamp. I could NOT see my feet and just could not get going. And Jon, who was with us that first time I was at that spot, told us that there was more light that day there than he had seen before.
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TFPU!