MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: mungeclimber on January 21, 2015, 11:11:58 AM
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https://californiaclimbermagazine.files.wordpress.com/2012/06/cc11_winter14_master_hires_web.pdf
pg 51
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YEAH- a good one. Snapped that up as soon as I saw it.
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be specific...
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well for one, "past his cower-ing belayers" They did not cower, ever.
None of my routes are in it so it is definitely sub-par. pphhhhhrrrttttttt
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- I thought the article said he was the author and photographer?
- Some of what J.C. describes/faults is just the use of dramatic license.
- Jim's a good guy with tons and tons of climbing experience. He's climbed at Pinns a lot, but I don't think it's his favorite location and nor do I think he's very passionate about the most of the place (these may all be a sign of intelligence beyond ours).
- I don't think easier routes interest him much (no matter how good they are), and it showed for sure.
- People's opinions differ on ratings; I thought some of those he attached to routes in his article were pretty dumb/inflated, but others might be appropriate. I think calling Lava Falls 5.9 R isn't a big stretch, although I didn't give it an "R" in my book.
- I was pleased that he didn't bring into the article controversies about rap bolting and that kind of crap. Those who've read Adam's Mudn'Crud thread about the rap bolted travesties on The Monolith may recall that Jim defended the practice in that thread (although he didn't put those "routes" in). I disagree with him on this topic and always will. Stated another way, I don't share his values on this subject and I would/will/have vigorously told him that. But in that thread he was respectful of others and wrote/spoke clearly. I can't fault either of those things. He could have used this magazine article as a pulpit for his views, but did not. I'm good with that.
- He's a known quality and quantity to Dean (the owner/editor of California Climber). One of us (you though, not me) should contact Dean and volunteer to write the next Pinns article (in two years or so?) centering the article on easier climbs, or on new climbs, or on something like the High Peaks.
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hah, now I know half of your post is bluster.
Ratings "Correct" please.
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I say boycott the Pinnacles!
And Lava Falls is 5.9R....
....And his pictures are nice....I say take it with a grain of salt.
Me, I'm going diving Sunday..
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That it gets any love from any rag is a miracle and good fortune.
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What is good fortune is that someone posted something other than that ongoing TR discussion! Thanks mungie :)
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What is good fortune is that someone posted something other than that ongoing TR discussion!
Incriminating.
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On a positive note, I like books with pictures and words!
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There are words?
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There are words?
:thumbup:
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Why am I always the bad kid in school?
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That's alright JC
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the pictures are cool.....can't doubt that. But yeah they do look familiar....and I can understand given the work put in already.
Mr Mud needs pictures...like me.
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You make some good points in your post Kyle but there are a couple I would like to comment on.
We must remember that ethics are ethics and not law
I did not notice that John made any reference in his post to ethics so it is interesting to me that you would bring this up.
and
Also, take into account who this magazine is targeted to. Is it a small group of Pinnacles climbers or the extremely board and diverse group who drastically outnumber you.
Both of these statements to me raise a very important point. When magazines target large audiences such as gym climbers where this magazine is distributed it is important for everyone to be on the same page as far ethics are concerned. This applies to the small group that posts on this forum and to others who might consider themselves as part of another group or maybe no group at all.
As climbing becomes more and more popular (which is evident if you use a gym on a regular basis for the last three or so years) the impact on areas such as Tourist Trap, Disco Wall, The Monolith,The Flumes etc could potentially raise or cause access issues especially if there are people who feel the consensus on ethics do not apply to them.
I do believe that your article with Jim was a labor of love (Jim takes fantastic photos) and I think the work that John Cook does is coming from the same place.
Also, I really enjoyed watching you guys climb Peregrine the other day. Did you guys climb Rock Around the Clock after that? Pinnacles needs more young people like you who , have a interest in developing new harder routes, and respect the great history of the park.
Take Care,
Noal
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Jim, that's outrageous. The crux holds on Lava Falls are most certainly not hollow.
I get the point of your response and thanks for having a sense of humor. And BTW, I'm not sure that J.C.'s post didn't use a little hyperbole in trying to be funny too (that's how I took most of it).
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HaHa! They ARE hollow. I've knocked on them like a compulsive woodpecker many times!
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HaHa! They ARE hollow. I've knocked on them like a compulsive woodpecker many times!
I can see the compulsive woodpecker part - that's the perfect description of an experienced Pinnacles climber.
But they can't be hollow - they've held my weight :P
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Well at least he was correct that it is the Hard Variation. Has been for the last 20 years or whatever. How does that song go, one out of 20 aint bad.
:)
I do think Brad was a bit correct that JC was using a bit of hyperbole. As much as it pains me to say this, JC is actually a pretty decent guy.
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I've talked with JC a few times in passing and his attitude has always been positive which makes his post so out of character.
On that point, the whole "I'm tempted to write a letter to the editor" thing made it clear to me that he was tongue in cheek. He knows it's a small one man operation and that no-one would care about such a letter (that is, he knows that a "letter" to Dean would be pointless).
Possibly another victim of the internet being pure black and white, no nuance?
Anyway I'll leave the issue to him from here on, if he reads this and if he wants to reply.
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Lava is 5.9R...it just is. Maybe not a bad R, but there is some space and if you are not on your game (been 14yrs since it was easy) then it seems scary.. The late Brutus didn't make it and banged up his ankle... he and EM approach Mr Mud and I near the parking lot..."are you guys climbers?" as they are on their way or was it coming back?
Yes, a day in the High Peaks would make a nice article... piglet will be in it!
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Hard Variation was given an R back in the day because when you pulled over the lip there was a loose flake and you had to do the first couple of moves on ball bearings. If your belayer was inattentive you could potentially hit the ledge down below. That clarifies the R on The Hard Variation. Had to sleep on it. It is very clean now so not so bad but when the books came out is was more heads up.