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Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: Aaron McDonald on February 09, 2015, 12:11:34 PM

Title: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: Aaron McDonald on February 09, 2015, 12:11:34 PM
Doesn't have to be just Pinnacles. I want to hear about them!!!

Balconies Regular Route
Prairie Home Companion  
Nexus
Son of Dawn
Icarus


Galactic Hitchhiker
Regular Northwest Face
Excalibur
Bulging Puke???

Balloon Dome (if I can find anyone who will go)
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: Brad Young on February 09, 2015, 12:36:59 PM
I've got only a few:

1 - Have fun. Seriously, this is my biggest climbing goal nowadays; I've done most of the big climbs and sets of climbs I've ever wanted to do and now I just want to keep climbing and continue having fun.

2 - Be safe (self explanatory).

3 - The Southwest Face of Liberty Cap in a day. Well, I admit it, Roger is rubbing off on me a little. I've tried this route and failed in the past. I'm pretty sure that doing it with Roger will be a synch. I'll be making a special effort to be in shape for it (I'm making a Clink-style aid/jumar training rig in a tree behind the house). And Roger? Well he did the Salathe Wall last April - he'd never even been on it before then - in under eleven hours.

4 - More Sierra Nevada high country stuff, including two or so fifth class routes and bagging more summits with my Tricia.
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: mungeclimber on February 09, 2015, 01:19:14 PM
Canoeing
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: kylequeener on February 09, 2015, 01:22:59 PM
Finish all the established routes in Pinnacles rated 5.12 or harder but not including top ropes or link ups. Only a handful of 5.12's left and then West of the Sun, which I'm not sure I can do this Spring given that I'm rehabbing some finger injuries right now. Not sure how that will play out.

Maybe put up a couple new routes look into FFAs

Would still like to link all the balconies flumes in a day, free. Peregrine to Shake N Bake.
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: mynameismud on February 09, 2015, 01:42:04 PM
I will start with "Go Climbing" and go from there.  My stretch goal is to lead 5.11 again. 
We will see.
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: Brad Young on February 09, 2015, 01:52:47 PM

Finish all the established routes in Pinnacles rated 5.12 or harder but not including top ropes or link ups…


Kyle, maybe between the two of us we could reach a point that we've done every route in the Park?
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: kylequeener on February 09, 2015, 02:12:53 PM
Kyle, maybe between the two of us we could reach a point that we've done every route in the Park?

Ha ha ha Yes!

It will be like a team ascent of Pinnacles!

Actually Brad you're kind of the motivation behind my 5.12 on up goal based on your 'all routes under 5.10 or 5.11' (Don't remember which grade was the cap) idea.
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: Brad Young on February 09, 2015, 02:38:33 PM

Ha ha ha Yes!

It will be like a team ascent of Pinnacles!

Actually Brad you're kind of the motivation behind my 5.12 on up goal based on your 'all routes under 5.10 or 5.11' (Don't remember which grade was the cap) idea.


Given your young age (pun intended), we could be "team youngkyqueener."

Or you could just skip me and by your 50s (I'm 54) you could have done literally every route in the Park.

I actually got to a point last December where I'd done every single route at Pinns easier than 5.10. But I've also done most of the 5.10s, and so a dream would be to get to a point where I've done everything at Pinnacles easier than 5.11.

And although I've done about three quarters of the 5.11s at Pinns, there are some there that I've decisively proven that I can't do   ;)     So that level isn't going to happen for me.

Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: clink on February 09, 2015, 02:44:14 PM
 40 routes in a day has caught my attention, Munge. One at least of every rating from third class to 5.11a? That will get my ass in shape and be a great Pinn's sampler. Finish the upper pitches of "Aaron's project" by December. Explore far corners of the park I haven't been to with JC all year long. Do more rebolting of routes with Bruce, JC and co. Get Geoff back on a route he started 25 years ago, or remove the old bolts if it aint gonna happen.

 A huge goal will be to get Martha climbing by years end. Looks like her surgery will be on Wednesday to remove the plate and screws in her foot.

Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: CruxLuv on February 09, 2015, 02:45:50 PM
To keep the rubber side down. 
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: mungeclimber on February 09, 2015, 02:55:17 PM
40 routes in a day has caught my attention, Munge.

I think we need to seriously think about mapping this out. Start VERY early, Warm ups, solos, then some meaty routes in the middle, taper off toward the end of the day.

I'd do 'pitches' too.

Routes would be anything in the guidebook. I'd include e.g. the boulder problems up at The Carousel.

I think this would be easiest on the East Side.
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: Brad Young on February 09, 2015, 02:55:37 PM

To keep the rubber side down.  


Which rubber?

With your recent history I can see keeping the rubber side of your bicycle down; down on the road and trail and not up in the air.

And I can see keeping the rubber side of your shoes down too; on the rock and not flying through the air.
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: clink on February 09, 2015, 03:07:46 PM
Quote
I think we need to seriously think about mapping this out.

Agreed, I was thinking of the East, West and High Peaks.

Quote
To keep the rubber side down.

That works for me.
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: mungeclimber on February 09, 2015, 03:13:14 PM
need a sortable spreadsheet we can filter off of. Sort by rating, then filter by area. Arrange those areas into a direction of travel.

I will train tonight now that the shoulder is in better shape.
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: CruxLuv on February 09, 2015, 03:15:41 PM
Which rubber?

With your recent history I can see keeping the rubber side of your bicycle down; down on the road and trail and not up in the air.

And I can see keeping the rubber side of your shoes down too; on the rock and not flying through the air.

The former to not impede the latter.   ;)
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: Brad Young on February 09, 2015, 03:20:05 PM

need a sortable spreadsheet we can filter off of. Sort by rating, then filter by area. Arrange those areas into a direction of travel.

I will train tonight now that the shoulder is in better shape.


Dude, you might be blowing it here. Make him trade (you know, you'll do his pet 40 routes project with him if he'll do a little canoe ride with you - just a little canoe ride).
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: clink on February 09, 2015, 03:21:21 PM
Quote
I will train tonight now that the shoulder is in better shape.

It's on then.
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: Brad Young on February 09, 2015, 03:21:32 PM

The former to not impede the latter.   ;)


Amen and hallelujah. And the same exact wishes to Mr. Mud too.
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: clink on February 09, 2015, 03:25:52 PM
Quote
just a little canoe ride

I know what is at the end of that canoe ride. He needs Mucci or Cobbles for that.
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: mungeclimber on February 09, 2015, 03:45:08 PM
It's on then.

Yeah. Stay injury free and let's get this going.
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: MUCCI on February 10, 2015, 11:32:27 AM
Code: [Select]
The West Face of Liberty Cap in a day
Did you mean the southwest face harding route?

Man, You guys should repeat the Scarface.  Tons of cracks for both of you to fire off and easy aid on the other stuff.  In a day no problemlemo with Strong Roger.

I just want to rehab my A2 pulley.  Maybe get out and start a big proj somewhere...
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: mungeclimber on February 10, 2015, 04:51:03 PM
I know what is at the end of that canoe ride. He needs Mucci or Cobbles for that.

There are no cement er, cobble shoes involved.
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: Gavin on February 10, 2015, 09:02:50 PM
Doesn't have to be just Pinnacles. I want to hear about them!!!

Balconies Regular Route
Prairie Home Companion  
Nexus
Son of Dawn
Icarus


Galactic Hitchhiker
Regular Northwest Face
Excalibur
Bulging Puke???

Balloon Dome (if I can find anyone who will go)


Nice topic, Aaron. I would do Nexus and Son of Dawn with you. I've been on the former once and a loose knob blew my onsight attempt... I've only done the first pitch of the latter but would be up for the whole thing if you're game.

Otherwise, for objectives: nothing too concrete. I'd like to finish setting the first pitch of Full Circle with Brad, set at least a new line with Kyle, and see what else inspires me. I've wanted to do Resurrection Wall, some of the harder stuff on Citadel, and Bolt It And They Will Come for some time and hope to finally get on those.
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: Brad Young on February 10, 2015, 09:08:50 PM

Did you mean the southwest face harding route?


Yep, that's the one. It's a route that's been on my list for a long time.
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: Atomizer on February 11, 2015, 06:31:33 PM
Climb 100 peaks over 10,000 ft.
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: Brad Young on February 11, 2015, 06:33:12 PM

Climb 100 peaks over 10,000 ft.


That'd be pretty damn impressive!

You still living in Bishop (which would certainly put you in the right place to hit that goal)?

And photos. We're gonna want to see photos.

Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: Atomizer on February 12, 2015, 07:40:26 AM
I've been up two so far this year, Mt Whitney and Mt. Tom. I'm figuring that there are some ways to get in 10-15 in a day so summer should be the catchup time. For now I take the Mr Mud approach and am riding my bike like a madman.
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: Brad Young on February 12, 2015, 09:00:58 AM

I've been up two so far this year, Mt Whitney and Mt. Tom. I'm figuring that there are some ways to get in 10-15 in a day so summer should be the catchup time. For now I take the Mr Mud approach and am riding my bike like a madman.


Assuming that we can snark at each other on one thread and talk on another, was your winter ascent of Whitney very wintery?

And Mount Tom? I've always been fascinated by it's north ridge; what six miles long and seven thousand feet of elevation gain? I'd love to hike that some day. Which way did you get to the summit?

98 more to go is still a lot - don't pull a Mr Mud approach to mountain biking and end up in surgery like he did!  ;)
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: clink on February 13, 2015, 02:44:42 PM
Aaron, I'm gonna climb Sunday. Valentine's Day I'll be with Martha who is recovering from her foot hardware removal nicely.

Hugs and kisses to all you tomorrow.
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: Aaron McDonald on February 13, 2015, 02:57:06 PM
Aaron, I'm gonna climb Sunday. Valentine's Day I'll be with Martha who is recovering from her foot hardware removal nicely.

Hugs and kisses to all you tomorrow.

Click,

I just put up and this is how you treat me?  :)

Tell Martha I hope she has a speedy recovery!
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: waldo on February 14, 2015, 08:08:32 PM
Clink, Munge, you guys have a canoe?  I've got a line in mind at Courtright, but I need a boat.  Let's talk.
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: JC w KC redux on February 14, 2015, 08:24:00 PM
Clink, Munge, you guys have a canoe?  I've got a line in mind at Courtright, but I need a boat.  Let's talk.

Rub a dub dub...
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: Brad Young on February 14, 2015, 08:29:18 PM
Aaron,

Per our discussion, from Excalibur:

Sunset high up on the headwall:

(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8651/16347979477_8acae26da3_b.jpg)


Frosty's Claustrophobic bivy:

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7292/16533912555_22d2c9799e_b.jpg)


Using an old Forrest one-point hammock for a sling belay "seat:"

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7397/16532831202_d3e7d90fb0_b.jpg)
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: Aaron McDonald on February 14, 2015, 10:07:17 PM
Brad,

Those are great!  Thanks for sharing!
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: Aaron McDonald on February 14, 2015, 10:08:59 PM
Nice topic, Aaron. I would do Nexus and Son of Dawn with you. I've been on the former once and a loose knob blew my onsight attempt... I've only done the first pitch of the latter but would be up for the whole thing if you're game.

Gavin,

Lets plan a day and get it done!
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: mungeclimber on February 15, 2015, 07:42:10 AM
Clink, Munge, you guys have a canoe?  I've got a line in mind at Courtright, but I need a boat.  Let's talk.

I have access to one. Lets talk.
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: beanolar on February 15, 2015, 07:47:01 AM
My goals.. drop 15lbs and get pregnant
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: mynameismud on February 15, 2015, 09:31:14 AM
that is a new one.   lol
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: beanolar on February 15, 2015, 07:53:39 PM
 :)
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: CruxLuv on February 16, 2015, 12:15:01 PM
While I don't have an official list, there are climbs that have been in the back of my head for a while.  Got to knock one off yesterday:  First Sister Left Route.

Also got to re-lead my first ever lead of three years ago:  Sinbad from the chimney.

Super fun baby steps...   ;)
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: Brad Young on February 17, 2015, 06:46:35 AM
Crux, good job ticking down the list on the Sister.

Beanolar, for a well protected first 5.8 lead, consider route 560.2 Abuela Cochinita (5.8 **) in the High Peaks (it is not closed for birds). There's a full description in the new routes sticky thread on this site.



Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: Brad Young on February 18, 2015, 09:45:57 PM
Aaron,

We talked about the Joshua Tree route Cedric's Deep Sea Fish Market. That's the route I told you about where my shoelaces got caught in a carabiner on a cam (on an early attempt).

Now rated 5.10d, it's got two cruxes and a lot of hard crack. The first ascent authors called it 5.11 (as does Donny Reid, one of the best crack climbers I know). Here's the photo I told you about; of my hands right after I redpointed it (second try on it that day):

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7356/16577280425_2a1d1a2f2f_b.jpg)


Damn, granite is sounding pretty good. Coming up soon.
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: Aaron McDonald on February 23, 2015, 10:00:07 AM
Aaron,

We talked about the Joshua Tree route Cedric's Deep Sea Fish Market. That's the route I told you about where my shoelaces got caught in a carabiner on a cam (on an early attempt).

Now rated 5.10d, it's got two cruxes and a lot of hard crack. The first ascent authors called it 5.11 (as does Donny Reid, one of the best crack climbers I know). Here's the photo I told you about; of my hands right after I redpointed it (second try on it that day):

Damn, granite is sounding pretty good. Coming up soon.

Brad,

Wow, your poor hands! With battle wounds like that, it must be a good route. I still cannot believe you were able to break your shoelace. Horrifying!
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: Brad Young on February 23, 2015, 12:09:38 PM
The word "horrifying" comes from old english. The root meaning is "it'll be a good story in ten years."  ;D   ;D
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: JC w KC redux on February 23, 2015, 02:27:29 PM
I still cannot believe you were able to break your shoelace.

Brad also recently mastered untying his shoe lace mid lead - that was exciting too :)
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: F4? on February 23, 2015, 06:36:00 PM
I was told that tape was for bad technique???

Yeah, I use tons of it!
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: Brad Young on February 23, 2015, 07:16:41 PM

Brad also recently mastered untying his shoe lace mid lead - that was exciting too :)


At least the shoe stayed on my foot until I finished the climb   :-\

And it's true that tape may be for bad technique, but some of us aren't spring chickens any more and skin gets thinner as it ages (that's my excuse and I'm sticking with it).
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: JC w KC redux on February 23, 2015, 07:19:12 PM
At least the shoe stayed on my foot until I finished the climb   :-\

Amen to that brudda!
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: clink on February 24, 2015, 06:38:57 AM
Study this.
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: Brad Young on February 24, 2015, 09:08:14 AM
Oh the laces were tied properly (thanks for the refresher though).

I just need to not put one foot on the end of the other foot's shoelace.
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: Brad Young on March 15, 2015, 02:14:04 PM
Brian and I finished an FA here today. It's a bolt ladder in the ponderosa pine next to the deck. (Thanks to Clink for the inspiration!)

We thought it would be A1. Then Brian read that the 7/16th inch lag bolts I bought have a bearing weight of "325 pounds." So maybe it's close to A3? And then the wind started blowing and we thought "what if the whole tree falls down?" So we think it is A5.

Aren't we badasses?

We figure that if we make everyone who comes up here to climb lead the aid pitch and then jug the fixed line, we'll contribute to better conditioning overall, and that we'll also get some people trained to get up those elusive Pinns mixed aid/free routes.

Brian says "you're welcome."
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: Brad Young on March 15, 2015, 02:15:22 PM
(The true purpose is to get stronger/faster on aid and on jugs so we can each haul ass on walls we're each doing with Roger in the next months.)
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: clink on March 15, 2015, 03:24:48 PM
Quote
Then Brian read that the 7/16th inch lag bolts I bought have a bearing weight of "325 pounds."

 The ALCA at work. L is for lunatic. Great, what is the top anchor?

 The neighbors Harry,Shane and Josh, on which the "aid tree" straddles our property lies went climbing with Bob and myself yesterday. This was the first time climbing outside for them, they may be hooked. Goals for them are Portant, Swallow, Sinbad, Entrance, Stupendous Man, Ordeal, Wet Kiss and the NEF and A High Peaks circuit. Thanks Bob for being our morning rope gun. I finally was able to wear out Josh.
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: Brad Young on March 15, 2015, 04:09:14 PM

 The ALCA at work. L is for lunatic. Great, what is the top anchor?


Three of those 7/16 inch screws, equalized. I'm gonna look for some 3/4 inch screws tomorrow and replace a few of the smaller ones.

Feel free to bring a kid or two up here if/when you make it this summer. New kids really wear out quickly on crack climbs  ;)

And that beautiful daughter who, from what VLY showed me on Bookface, had a great time climbing with an all woman, champion Pinnacles team yesterday. If I remember right, she really enjoyed that crack climb she tried last year.


Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: clink on March 15, 2015, 06:42:48 PM
Quote
If I remember right, she really enjoyed that crack climb she tried last year.

Laura went with the EXCLUSIVE all ladies yesterday, Carrie was the crack climber. Rachel has bombed out lately. All three  are planning on Memorial day.

I girthed the tree for an anchor.
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: Brad Young on March 15, 2015, 07:30:59 PM

Laura went with the EXCLUSIVE all ladies yesterday, Carrie was the crack climber. Rachel has bombed out lately. All three  are planning on Memorial day.

I girthed the tree for an anchor.


OK, I remember that now. Memorial Day will be fun. And we'll get some climbing in too.

Girthing the tree sounds good too - although I am fairly fond of large diameter steel.

Munge just stopped by and I invited him for a lap on the new aid route. But he was pretty worked from climbing hard already today and begged off.





Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: CruxLuv on March 15, 2015, 07:41:21 PM
Laura went with the EXCLUSIVE all ladies yesterday

She is such a sweetheart!

So...while it wasn't an objective - heck, I'm happy to be climbing anything right now - I broke into the 5.7's yesterday!!  Woohoo! 

Prolly also safe to say I led more than any other single day.  Booyah! 

Now I'm super stoked for MoM weekend and The Hills and Courtright...

BTW Brad - besides having the coolest name combo ever, Whitney is a really great person.  I'm sorry they won't be coming. 
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: Brad Young on March 15, 2015, 09:18:24 PM

BTW Brad - besides having the coolest name combo ever, Whitney is a really great person.  I'm sorry they won't be coming.


Yep, too bad her middle name isn't something like "Hood," or "Baker," huh?

BTW, Brian is pretty cool too. He climbed up here with us this weekend. They both hang out at our house on many summer weekends. Perhaps you should come up and stay/climb here just so you can get to know them better?  ;)

And BTW, big congrats on recovering from the injury and getting back into it in a big way!!
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: clink on March 16, 2015, 04:40:42 AM
Quote
Yep, too bad her middle name isn't something like "Hood," or "Baker," huh?

 Did she ever get called St. Helens when throwing a temper tantrum? Probably not, she doesn't seem like the tantrum type.

 We on the other hand should have went with names like  Vesuvius, Krakatoa, Tambora, Mauna Loa, Eyjafjallajokull, Pelée, Thera, or Pinatubo for our girls.
Quote
Frequently Asked Questions About Eruption Precursors
Before a volcano erupts, magma must force its way upward through solid rock beneath a restless volcano. This process causes the ground above to heave and shake as rock is shoved aside or broken. At the same time, gases are released from the magma as it rises to shallower levels where the pressure is lower and the temperature of the ground increases. These phenomena--ground movements, earthquakes, and changes in heat output and volcanic gases--provide the clues that scientists use to recognize a restless volcano and anticipate what might happen next.
So much simpler and tamer than hormones and emotions. Last night there were a couple precursors, but no actual cursing.

 Thanks Crux for taking Laura, she had a great time.
Waldo, I have your sling and locker as well as the helmet you loaned the boys.
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: clink on March 16, 2015, 06:53:54 AM
I went on two guys only outings last week. Here is pics from the first one. Planning on many more of these in 2015. Johnny at Panther beach.
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: Brad Young on May 13, 2015, 06:49:36 AM
I got "goal" number three done Monday:

"3 - The Southwest Face of Liberty Cap in a day. Well, I admit it, Roger is rubbing off on me a little. I've tried this route and failed in the past. I'm pretty sure that doing it with Roger will be a synch. I'll be making a special effort to be in shape for it (I'm making a Clink-style aid/jumar training rig in a tree behind the house). And Roger? Well he did the Salathe Wall last April - he'd never even been on it before then - in under eleven hours."

That's a pretty physical route all done in a day. Roger is still laughing at me for thinking that getting up at 5:00 a.m. to get ready was uncivilized (it is an hour and a half hike to the base, and ten long pitches to the top):

(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5327/16961660433_17f1e75439_c.jpg)


(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5462/17394217648_d791b2288c_c.jpg)


(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8885/17555674496_a3da37b9d0_c.jpg)


(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8826/16959495444_9bb5db2cd1_c.jpg)


(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5346/17579737152_d7d54e2c97_c.jpg)


(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7747/17582067145_69aac2180e_c.jpg)


(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7721/17394498530_7ee424a90b_c.jpg)


(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7727/16959544114_a8d6b8b497_c.jpg)


(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8724/16961776803_a6a371bba7_c.jpg)


(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8817/17582079361_6518d0a94f_c.jpg)


(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7705/17579823552_b24af51a5c_c.jpg)


I particularly enjoyed seeing the "Crack of God" feature where Mucci's route joins this Southwest Face. But then Roger's geologist side came out and he told me that that crack means that the whole section of face there (ten thousand tons of rock?) is going to come off. And it's gonna happen in ten days or ten thousand years (I don't want to be there then).

I'm still sore as hell in way too many muscles.


Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: Brad Young on May 13, 2015, 07:00:58 AM

Quote

...Munge, Brad, Jim, Aaron, Geoff and all others suffering from harsh cases of severe granititis.


Given what I posted above, I suppose there is some truth to this. Pinnacles is always love number one, but even there, "to every thing there is a season, and a time to every purpose under the heaven."
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: JC w KC redux on May 13, 2015, 07:21:59 AM
Given what I posted above, I suppose there is some truth to this. Pinnacles is always love number one, but even there, "to every thing there is a season, and a time to every purpose under the heaven."

Love is supposed to be timeless and unconditional :)

Exfoliation domes...yeeeesh :)
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: Brad Young on May 13, 2015, 07:38:46 AM

Love is supposed to be timeless and unconditional :)


Yes, of course. And a constant, hovering presence with my love has never been my style.  :P
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: mynameismud on May 13, 2015, 08:39:48 AM
Went Big!  Congratulations looks like a really cool route.
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: mungeclimber on May 13, 2015, 11:42:14 AM
gear list?
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: Brad Young on May 13, 2015, 11:50:41 AM

gear list?


What Roger would bring next time, or what we brought this time?  :o

-  We only had about ten stoppers. I use lots of stoppers and would bring twice that many.

-  Double set of cams from blue Alien through #3 Camalot, plus a single #4 Camalot (I was the only one that used a tiny purple cam, and I got a blue alien in a foot above that). Offset cams were really useful (no surprise there).

-  He used a cam hook one time.

-  The 70 meter rope was very helpful.

He revised his topo (from the one that is currently in his guidebook). It's pretty darn good now. I bet we could arrange to get you a copy.

Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: CruxLuv on May 13, 2015, 02:15:48 PM
Congrats!  Looks amazing.
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: CruxLuv on May 13, 2015, 02:19:14 PM
Okay - putting out there to invite peer pressure next weekend:

Lead 5.8 sport and 5.6 trad routes at Courtright.

Baby steps.

Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: Brad Young on May 13, 2015, 06:29:23 PM
Okay - putting out there to invite peer pressure next weekend:

Lead 5.8 sport and 5.6 trad routes at Courtright.

Baby steps.



One of the beautiful things about climbing is that everyone can find their own level of challenge. It's been fun watching you find your level (you've got a great sense of adventure).


Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: Brad Young on May 13, 2015, 06:58:05 PM
Oh hell, I almost forgot to post these too:

NEW TOY, NEW TOY

(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8866/17619035752_04a696db08_c.jpg)


(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8719/17435114789_affe923895_c.jpg)


That's a normal #3 Camalot next to it. Who in for some offwidth?  >:D   >:D
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: CruxLuv on May 13, 2015, 07:37:21 PM
BLING!
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: mungeclimber on May 13, 2015, 07:44:42 PM
nice, can I borrow it?
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: clink on May 13, 2015, 08:05:56 PM
Congrats Brad and Roger!
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: Brad Young on May 13, 2015, 08:44:44 PM

nice, can I borrow it?


Of course. And Alan and I went in on two (he's got the bigger one).
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: clink on May 14, 2015, 05:09:57 AM
Quote
he's got the bigger one

Forever humble. The "I only took second place, but OMG look who's first."
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: mungeclimber on May 14, 2015, 08:25:34 AM
You know what to ask me, if I do ask to borrow it:  "are you sure? are you feeling well? Are Em, Scuffy, Jaybro, Ed and Odub crew coming up to Sonora again?"  :)
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: Aaron McDonald on May 14, 2015, 12:20:29 PM
You know what to ask me, if I do ask to borrow it:  "are you sure? are you feeling well? Are Em, Scuffy, Jaybro, Ed and Odub crew coming up to Sonora again?"  :)

Munge,

You sold me all your wide gear last year....
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: Aaron McDonald on May 14, 2015, 12:21:39 PM
I got "goal" number three done Monday:

Great job! That looks like a great route!
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: MUCCI on May 15, 2015, 03:29:48 PM
Very nice ascent Brad!

Roger is solid in every way,  pretty good at climbing too ;)

That summit shot shows quite a bit of light left in the day!

One question:

Was that triangular death block still in the squeeze at the end of the 6th? Pitch (Large Right Facing Corner)



Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: mungeclimber on May 15, 2015, 03:34:14 PM
Munge,

You sold me all your wide gear last year....


"all" is a relative term. :)

I sold enough to have an excuse not to crush overhanging fist cracks that go more 100' LOL

Still have enough to get into trouble with. :)
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: mynameismud on May 15, 2015, 03:39:01 PM
so you one or two pieces?
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: Brad Young on May 15, 2015, 04:56:58 PM

Very nice ascent Brad!

Roger is solid in every way,  pretty good at climbing too ;)

That summit shot shows quite a bit of light left in the day!

One question:

Was that triangular death block still in the squeeze at the end of the 6th? Pitch (Large Right Facing Corner)





Ahha, so you have been there.

Yeah, it was still there. Roger talked about jettisoning it on if he does the route again. But we agreed that it could only be done with a spotter or two on the ground (and with two way radios to communicate).


Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: waldo on May 18, 2015, 09:11:03 AM
Brad, I'm in awe of your climb! I had a small adventure while you up there. It follows:

I arose with dawn on Monday and made my leisurely way through morning camp chores – mostly drinking coffee and watching sun-fingers touch Glacier Point.  I finally tidied up breakfast and made ready to set off on my hike – a jaunt up the Snow Creek Trail.  My pack was packed except for a few munchies – two ziplock bags filled respectively with gorp and peanuts – which I removed from the bear box and set on the picnic table. I stepped to the open rear of my van to retrieve my pack and heard a loud flapping behind me.
   I turned quickly, but my bags of goodies were already headed for the deep woods in the clutches of two large ravens. I dropped my pack and gave chase.  Some distance into the trees, I realized – Holy S _ _ _ !  I’m sprinting!  It’s been a decade or two since I did that and I decided it was best to quit, especially since the ravens, even burdened, were widening the gap between us. Uttering raucous, mocking caws, they soon disappeared.
   I returned to camp and sat pondering my losses with a third cup of coffee. After a few minutes, up flapped Mr. Raven. He settled on a high branch, cocked his head to one side and peered down at me, obviously hoping that I’d offer him a second course of breakfast. I addressed him in a conversational tone and told him that he closely resembled the southern-most orifice of the human body. I added that his ancestry was more than suspect. He listened attentively until I finished. When he was sure I had no more to say, he flew away.
   A few minutes later, he swooped down and dropped my stolen baggie of peanuts at the edge of camp.
   I’m open to explanations here!
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: Brad Young on May 18, 2015, 09:23:03 AM

Brad, I'm in awe of your climb! I had a small adventure while you up there. It follows:

I arose with dawn on Monday and made my leisurely way through morning camp chores – mostly drinking coffee and watching sun-fingers touch Glacier Point.  I finally tidied up breakfast and made ready to set off on my hike – a jaunt up the Snow Creek Trail.  My pack was packed except for a few munchies – two ziplock bags filled respectively with gorp and peanuts – which I removed from the bear box and set on the picnic table. I stepped to the open rear of my van to retrieve my pack and heard a loud flapping behind me.
   I turned quickly, but my bags of goodies were already headed for the deep woods in the clutches of two large ravens. I dropped my pack and gave chase.  Some distance into the trees, I realized – Holy S _ _ _ !  I’m sprinting!  It’s been a decade or two since I did that and I decided it was best to quit, especially since the ravens, even burdened, were widening the gap between us. Uttering raucous, mocking caws, they soon disappeared.
   I returned to camp and sat pondering my losses with a third cup of coffee. After a few minutes, up flapped Mr. Raven. He settled on a high branch, cocked his head to one side and peered down at me, obviously hoping that I’d offer him a second course of breakfast. I addressed him in a conversational tone and told him that he closely resembled the southern-most orifice of the human body. I added that his ancestry was more than suspect. He listened attentively until I finished. When he was sure I had no more to say, he flew away.
   A few minutes later, he swooped down and dropped my stolen baggie of peanuts at the edge of camp.
   I’m open to explanations here!


No explanations here.

And I'm not laughing at you, I'm laughing with you.

Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: mungeclimber on May 18, 2015, 09:36:48 AM
lol, talk about communing with nature.
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: CruxLuv on May 18, 2015, 11:15:00 AM

   I’m open to explanations here!


He undoubtedly took pity on such a poor, flightless creature.  You surely needed the nutrients more than he.

(thanks for the laugh!)
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: mudworm on May 18, 2015, 01:40:05 PM
   I returned to camp and sat pondering my losses with a third cup of coffee. After a few minutes, up flapped Mr. Raven. He settled on a high branch, cocked his head to one side and peered down at me, obviously hoping that I’d offer him a second course of breakfast. I addressed him in a conversational tone and told him that he closely resembled the southern-most orifice of the human body. I added that his ancestry was more than suspect. He listened attentively until I finished. When he was sure I had no more to say, he flew away.
   A few minutes later, he swooped down and dropped my stolen baggie of peanuts at the edge of camp.
   I’m open to explanations here!

I believe it! Sure, this is a raven, but crows (just another type of birds) have been known to bring humans gifts for a long time (example (http://www.bbc.com/news/magazine-31604026)). If you had kept talking to Mr. Raven, he could have brought you a five course meal stolen from the next campsite.
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: Brad Young on May 18, 2015, 01:57:06 PM

...this is a raven, but crows (just another type of birds)….


Oh

My

God.

You better hope that Gavin doesn't EVER read that.

Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: mudworm on May 18, 2015, 02:01:18 PM
Geez, you made me nervous. After all, one has four letters and the other has five. They are not the same, are they?

Crows vs Ravens (http://www.allaboutbirds.org/page.aspx?pid=2501)
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: mynameismud on May 18, 2015, 02:28:32 PM
so there you have it, one is a four letter word.
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: clink on May 18, 2015, 04:45:30 PM
Three letters Mud, four is though.
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: Brad Young on May 18, 2015, 05:26:30 PM

While on Liberty Cap, Roger and I were talking about our respective histories of climbing the walls of Yosemite (Roger is 31 years old by the way). The conversation went like this:

Brad: "You realize that I probably climbed El Cap for the first time when you were still in diapers?"

Roger: "When?"

Brad: "In 1985."

Pause, followed by Roger: "Wow, yeah, I was in diapers."

Second pause and then Roger again: "You realize too that you'll probably be in diapers when I climb El Cap for my last time?"

Zing ------------!!

Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: mungeclimber on May 18, 2015, 06:10:47 PM
Buahaha
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: clink on May 18, 2015, 06:45:10 PM
Quote
Second pause and then Roger again: "You realize too that you'll probably be in diapers when I climb El Cap for my last time?"

It all depends.
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: clink on May 20, 2015, 06:18:41 PM
Quote
A few minutes later, he swooped down and dropped my stolen baggie of peanuts at the edge of camp.
   I’m open to explanations here!

 Waldo,

 Mr. Raven works for the IRS, he kept the good stuff, and your refund was peanuts.
Title: Re: Climbing Objectives for 2015
Post by: waldo on May 21, 2015, 03:46:05 AM
Waldo,

 Mr. Raven works for the IRS, he kept the good stuff, and your refund was peanuts.

Clink, it's not even April, but you're right!