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Climbing and ... Climbing => Everywhere Else => Topic started by: clink on May 04, 2015, 07:08:23 AM

Title: Go lighter.
Post by: clink on May 04, 2015, 07:08:23 AM
 Aaron is one well prepared climber. He has educated himself in ropework and self rescue and even though to his face we make fun of how much stuff he climbs with, behind his back we admire his expertise.

 The latest item he was noticed to also carry is a taped up lighter, for which he received a comprehensive lambasting. We realized that Aaron has somehow misinterpreted the meaning of "go lighter".  Caleb pointed out that if Free Bird was suddenly blared across the Valley on a good sound system after dark, no one would be cooler than Aaron on an unplanned bivy blinking his lighter.

 Kyle offers free guiding, especially to annoying people and if you would rather, instead of your own, use his gear anytime. He was the only one of the group excused from Geoff's mandate that we all lose 10lbs.

 Geoff almost succeeded in sabotaging my follow of Moby Dick by dubbing me "Powerlocks", Goldilocks' bigger sister. It is hard to continue jamming during a fit of belly laughs. The next day I ruined Caleb's chair, when seat ripped out while I was sitting in it. He said this made us even for him running up the East Buttress of El Cap with my nut pick and new red Camelot that he pilfered from my rack, thinking it was Geoff's.

 Jeremy gave an informative minor dissertation at the campfire on alcohol and prescription drug use and how to avoid liver damage.

 Missed Aaron D.(the other Aaron), hope he can make the next one. Got on harder climbs than I have in a while such as Sacherer Cracker thanks to the lead efforts of the rest of the crew. Good sore and great outing.

 

  
Title: Re: Go lighter.
Post by: clink on May 04, 2015, 08:49:33 AM
Geoff just informed me of a text Caleb sent him. Cause and Effect with a picture of my backside and his broken chair. With friends like these who needs enemas?
Title: Re: Go lighter.
Post by: Yo-so-mighty on May 04, 2015, 09:11:58 AM
My new goal in life is to make Clinker laugh-rattle out of a crack... preferably on lead.
Title: Re: Go lighter.
Post by: mudworm on May 04, 2015, 09:47:06 AM
The Valley? Oh, jealous.
Title: Re: Go lighter.
Post by: JC w KC redux on May 04, 2015, 10:04:17 AM
Good one clink. Thanks for the free entertainment :)
Title: Re: Go lighter.
Post by: Aaron McDonald on May 04, 2015, 03:25:41 PM
What a great trip.  We need to do that more often. Caleb! My Fifi is on belay!

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-vqSjzzXBV90/VUZ0Mu1Z1-I/AAAAAAAAfWs/yVjRKJ7R9ec/w440-h780-no/20150501_094120.jpg)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YQVjf0yivcw/VUZq6B37pNI/AAAAAAAAfWs/-2W81JI1Fho/w440-h780-no/20150501_095254.jpg)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Et5eDmkVXqc/VUZq8yXmMgI/AAAAAAAAfWs/CFKCrC7RCGo/w1197-h674-no/20150501_102401.jpg)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-A6xtqdK7OBc/VUZrEsEnmaI/AAAAAAAAfWs/0-uYFbGnPdU/w1197-h674-no/20150501_105428.jpg)

(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-6O-4RuabKgs/VUZrJUQZ7FI/AAAAAAAAfWs/NaNXtS_DaEg/w440-h780-no/20150501_105704.jpg)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-S1Fnk3gQrwA/VUZrVJz7W3I/AAAAAAAAfWs/wiMtGArSEz0/w1197-h674-no/20150501_110115.jpg)






Title: Re: Go lighter.
Post by: mynameismud on May 05, 2015, 02:20:42 AM
Nice
Title: Re: Go lighter.
Post by: mungeclimber on May 05, 2015, 06:31:05 AM
Granite?

I thought it was pinns season.


I'm so confused.
Title: Re: Go lighter.
Post by: Brad Young on May 05, 2015, 06:50:27 AM
It's Pinns season except when it's not (obviously).

And who the hell leads Sacherer Cracker with a huge cam? Hell, back in the day all we had was number four Friends (not even Camalots for crap sakes). Is Pinnacles climbing making these climbers weaker?
Title: Re: Go lighter.
Post by: CruxLuv on May 05, 2015, 06:59:23 AM
Sweet!
Title: Re: Go lighter.
Post by: the Kid on May 05, 2015, 07:25:50 AM
Awesome! I've got some serious granite envy going on...
Title: Re: Go lighter.
Post by: mynameismud on May 05, 2015, 07:40:08 AM
Back in the day we had Hexes and TriCams
Title: Re: Go lighter.
Post by: Brad Young on May 05, 2015, 08:00:22 AM

Back in the day we had Hexes and TriCams


Yeah. And in your day all that gear was made from dinosaur bones. Climbers are weak nowadays.

Title: Re: Go lighter.
Post by: Yo-so-mighty on May 05, 2015, 08:29:29 AM
Yeah, I hear you guys. One of the lobes on my Aliens was a little worn down and didn't fit perfectly. It took me a few extra seconds to set it right, and I didn't even complain! Kids these days...
Title: Re: Go lighter.
Post by: Aaron McDonald on May 05, 2015, 11:24:45 AM
It's Pinns season except when it's not (obviously).

And who the hell leads Sacherer Cracker with a huge cam? Hell, back in the day all we had was number four Friends (not even Camalots for crap sakes). Is Pinnacles climbing making these climbers weaker?

I will belay you anytime you want to prove it.  There was a rumor about a slingable chock stone somewhere in the the off width section that no longer exists. The #6 only works for a about 1 foot, then it is completely tipped out and basically worthless.

You are also probably going to tell me that you lead Apron Jam with only a single flexable number four Friend as well?
Title: Re: Go lighter.
Post by: clink on May 05, 2015, 12:05:44 PM
Back in the days when apes were men and men weren't apes.
Title: Re: Go lighter.
Post by: Yo-so-mighty on May 05, 2015, 12:09:56 PM
... when the women were strong, the men were good looking, and the children were above average.
Title: Re: Go lighter.
Post by: mynameismud on May 05, 2015, 12:14:40 PM
and we did not have flexy stems...
Title: Re: Go lighter.
Post by: clink on May 05, 2015, 12:40:57 PM
BTW Yo-so, should have went with Me-so-dumbass.  >:D
Title: Re: Go lighter.
Post by: Yo-so-mighty on May 05, 2015, 01:23:22 PM
Whats that Clunk?
Title: Re: Go lighter.
Post by: Yo-so-mighty on May 05, 2015, 01:28:50 PM
With the average age of the posters here, I don't think anyone has flexy stems.
Title: Re: Go lighter.
Post by: mudworm on May 05, 2015, 03:41:42 PM
With the average age of the posters here, I don't think anyone has flexy stems.

Oh oh oh... I do, I do!

When Mr. Mud was still away on his biz trip this Saturday, I opened up the closet and pulled the pieces out of drawers and hidden pouches. Racked them all up, and sat in front of this for an hour... dreaming about the beautiful cracks...
(http://www.mudncrud.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=70629&g2_serialNumber=1)


... when the women were strong, the men were good looking, and the children were above average.

Don't think I know who you are, and when I saw your first post, I thought you were a young'n.... until I saw this post. You don't find many youngsters listen to that show.
Title: Re: Go lighter.
Post by: Brad Young on May 05, 2015, 05:45:30 PM

I will belay you anytime you want to prove it.  There was a rumor about a slingable chock stone somewhere in the the off width section that no longer exists. The #6 only works for a about 1 foot, then it is completely tipped out and basically worthless.

You are also probably going to tell me that you lead Apron Jam with only a single flexable number four Friend as well?


Well we'll have to find time then  ;)  (but let's do it when the Valley isn't crowded, I hate it there when it is crowded). Offwidth isn't that hard if you just get in it and go, and the section of offwidth at the top of Sacherer Cracker is pretty short and straightforward.

Actually, no, no, here's the deal: I'll lead Sacherer Cracker without a big cam if, in return you promise to lead my route up here, Heavy Mettle, using all the gear you wish to take. That'll be fun times two.

And when I led Apron Jam in the 1980s, we only had rigid stem Friends. Also - you probably won't believe this part - they came with the Friend only and no sling. Imagine that, we had to tie tubular webbing through the stem!





Title: Re: Go lighter.
Post by: Yo-so-mighty on May 05, 2015, 06:41:01 PM
Well, let me introduce myself. The name is Caleb, I'm 40. Clink was my climbing mentor and muse, (let that sink in for a bit). I was a weirdo who didn't own a TV until about 24, so I got a lot of my entertainment from unusual places, hence Garrison Keillor... and Clink.
Title: Re: Go lighter.
Post by: F4? on May 05, 2015, 07:37:42 PM
Hey, I think one of those yellow camalots is mine. check the axel, touch of rust on it.

notice she is showing her gear. Mr. Mud's is sparse...
(http://www.mudncrud.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=70629&g2_serialNumber=1)
Title: Re: Go lighter.
Post by: clink on May 05, 2015, 07:48:15 PM
Quote
The name is Caleb

 A normal person would have said "my name is..."

 I barely know you and lets keep it that way. Wasn't like I was a priest and you were an alter boy. Quit following me around, I have big climbing plans this summer.

 
Quote
I was a weirdo

 ??

 
Title: Re: Go lighter.
Post by: mungeclimber on May 05, 2015, 09:51:15 PM
Clink was my climbing mentor and muse, (let that sink in for a bit).

But you got better, right?   ;)


Clink speaks highly of The Caleb. Gotta be ok if you're climbing Pinns regularly.


cheers,
Munge
Title: Re: Go lighter.
Post by: mynameismud on May 06, 2015, 05:21:29 AM
Clink was my climbing mentor and muse

Your doomed.
Title: Re: Go lighter.
Post by: clink on May 06, 2015, 06:08:26 AM
Quote
Clink speaks highly of The Caleb.

Shhush, might go to his head. He is somewhat the spirit of Harding reincarnated into a family man, off the couch climber. This combination may cause inner conflict.

He enjoys to climb far into the night by headlamp.

Quote
Your doomed.

Totally.

Title: Re: Go lighter.
Post by: Yo-so-mighty on May 06, 2015, 06:11:50 AM
There is peacefulness and solitude to be found in night climbing. Plus you can't see how far you're gonna fall.
Title: Re: Go lighter.
Post by: clink on May 06, 2015, 06:35:41 AM
 Upon reflection, possessed would have been a better choice than reincarnated.

 Truth be told there is a deep reservoir of excellent spirit of among those who contribute here.

 Thinking more Hetch Hetchy quality, less Pinns reservoir.

 

 
Title: Re: Go lighter.
Post by: Aaron McDonald on May 06, 2015, 08:24:06 AM
Posted on behalf of  Yo-so-mighty....

The East Buttress of El Cap

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wXirY3cVdlM/VUo_xkoX1wI/AAAAAAAAfZA/nkOtbJpNjDk/w477-h636-no/FullSizeRender.jpg)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wBo7vmB_cbY/VUo_xigZWTI/AAAAAAAAfZA/cWwdYW8TVMo/w477-h636-no/IMG_0011.jpg)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-VUzX9aAIyeE/VUo_xsKmluI/AAAAAAAAfZA/O5zS4tGxWWo/w477-h636-no/IMG_0010.jpg)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3EW-E6pooWc/VUo_xvAKglI/AAAAAAAAfZA/s58RmreRfeg/w477-h636-no/IMG_0009.jpg)
Title: Re: Go lighter.
Post by: Yo-so-mighty on May 06, 2015, 08:26:52 AM
Thanks a lot Aaron.
Title: Re: Go lighter.
Post by: Aaron McDonald on May 06, 2015, 08:33:13 AM
Actually, no, no, here's the deal: I'll lead Sacherer Cracker without a big cam if, in return you promise to lead my route up here, Heavy Mettle, using all the gear you wish to take. That'll be fun times two.

And when I led Apron Jam in the 1980s, we only had rigid stem Friends. Also - you probably won't believe this part - they came with the Friend only and no sling. Imagine that, we had to tie tubular webbing through the stem!


It's a deal.  Heavy Mettle sound like an off width? Tell me more...

I believe the that rigid stem Friends are now referred to as "Inflexible Friends."

Title: Re: Go lighter.
Post by: mynameismud on May 06, 2015, 08:45:12 AM
Pinns reservoir.

You probably have not heard my skinny dipping in the reservoir story.  lol

Title: Re: Go lighter.
Post by: Brad Young on May 06, 2015, 09:15:52 AM


It's a deal.  Heavy Mettle sound like an off width? Tell me more…


Heavy Mettle is a three star (out of three), 70 foot long, 5.10a offwidth. A superb route. It's located in the South Fork canyon, one of the prettiest parts of the SPH, with some of the best rock.

I led its first ascent with the following gear: yellow Alien (in a side crack down low), #5 Camalot, #6 Camalot, #5 Camalot, #4.5 Camalot and #6 Camalot.

It was physically tough, although it has one rest point two thirds of the way up. Joel followed me. Without any real offwidth experience, he hung on the rope every eight inches. He made it up though, and then almost puked. I looked at him and started laughing. And I thought: "that's a lot of heavy metal." As I thought though about his persistence in following the thing, I decided to change the spelling to "mettle."


Quote

I believe the that rigid stem Friends are now referred to as "Inflexible Friends."


Around our house we call them "wall decorations."   ;D

Title: Re: Go lighter.
Post by: Brad Young on May 06, 2015, 09:16:40 AM

You probably have not heard my skinny dipping in the reservoir story.  lol



I think I have, but I'm not sure. So, let's hear it...
Title: Re: Go lighter.
Post by: Yo-so-mighty on May 06, 2015, 09:17:41 AM
Lets not, and say we did.
Title: Re: Go lighter.
Post by: Brad Young on May 06, 2015, 09:19:27 AM

Lets not, and say we did.


Hey, bug off pest. You don't get to say stuff like that until you're post count is at least in the double digits.  :P
Title: Re: Go lighter.
Post by: clink on May 06, 2015, 09:51:32 AM
Quote
You probably have not heard my skinny dipping in the reservoir story.

I have heard it and others ;D
Title: Re: Go lighter.
Post by: mudworm on May 06, 2015, 10:01:03 AM
I have heard it and others ;D

The question is have you told Caleb that story, or not? If not, what kind of mentor are you???
Title: Re: Go lighter.
Post by: clink on May 06, 2015, 11:45:20 AM
Quote
what kind of mentor are you?

Tormentor >:D   Unlike Waldo who is a fine, respectable citizen and mentor who speaks so softly.



Mudworm, Kyqueener told us of your lead attempt on the left side of POD wall. Bravo.
Title: Re: Go lighter.
Post by: mudworm on May 06, 2015, 01:42:41 PM
Mudworm, Kyqueener told us of your lead attempt on the left side of POD wall. Bravo.

Huh? Something got lost in translation. There was no *lead* attempt from me. It was all Kyqueener. He led POD, Foreplay, and then onsighted Tailspin. I fell off at the crux of Tailspin.
Title: Re: Go lighter.
Post by: clink on May 07, 2015, 05:53:05 AM
Quote
I fell off at the crux of Tailspin.

I would have fallen off the beginning, middle, and never made it to the crux. Well he was impressed by your effort on follow then.
Title: Re: Go lighter.
Post by: clink on May 07, 2015, 07:07:43 AM
Aaron asked me again last week about considering climbing a wall. Looking at a TR by J-tree on the second ascent of Jericho I had to laugh at this excerpt,
Quote
With the weight of the pack, I was only able to go about 20-30' at a time before I needed to rest. Ryan had long since left me behind because he was obviously in much better shaper that I was. The final insult came towards the top of the hill when I had to ask Ryan to carry my bag the remainder of the way if he wanted us to start with any light left in the day. My role as "more experienced leader" was quickly being replaced with "whiney wimp." My only consolation was that Ryan was getting a sneak peek at my honed-to-perfection aid technique of whimpering and sobbing while on lead.

Blubbering is an older term  (1. To utter while crying and sobbing.)

 Aaron, are you ready, to deal with this? Do I want to endure vertical camping again? Or can I be the steadfast prow of a ship, parting new seas of discovery. Hmm. Laura is cooking up an egg breakfast. I will eat and contemplate.

 Topo's make everything look so doable.
Title: Re: Go lighter.
Post by: clink on May 07, 2015, 08:01:18 AM
More description from J-tree,
Quote
Before long, he was at the tree belay and calling off belay. I had wanted to be the gentleman and carry most of the rack for him to make the freeclimbing easy; after all, I'd be doing the pitches on toprope as a second after all. Within moments of starting up the pitch I realized that the traversing nature of the route combined with 2 pieces of protection for the 180' feet or so meant that I would def not be treating this as a simple toprope. More whimpering ensued. Bigwalllesson#162: Don't try to be a gentleman.
:)
Title: Re: Go lighter.
Post by: Aaron McDonald on May 07, 2015, 02:43:15 PM
Clink,

At least you are thinking about it. Does this mean you are committing?
Title: Re: Go lighter.
Post by: Yo-so-mighty on May 07, 2015, 04:33:33 PM
"So you're saying there's a chance..."
Title: Re: Go lighter.
Post by: clink on May 07, 2015, 04:52:10 PM
Chance of meatballs.
Title: Re: Go lighter.
Post by: F4? on May 07, 2015, 05:46:38 PM
Quote
You probably have not heard my skinny dipping in the reservoir story.  lol
I'd give you $10 for you to do it again!