MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: CruxLuv on May 23, 2015, 08:06:41 PM
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Or, as I've been slaughtering it all day: "Abulita Conichita" ::)
Anyhoo...just tooting my own horn for my second 5.8 lead!! Woohoo! Proof that Tilting Terrace wasn't a fluke a couple weeks ago. ;)
I had wanted Bob's route to be my first 5.8 ever since I started grabbing crud but Tilting Terrace came calling first recently so Grandma had to settle for second.
They may share a rating but what a vast difference between the two! It may have just been the wind and cold whipping around me today but the climb certainly got my attention in a few places whereas Tilting Terrace was just plain fun.
It's so great to have a whole bunch of new stuff to tackle now! Stoking the fire. >:D
(There aren't many places/people who would understand so thanks for listening!)
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Awesome job - glad to give you a belay. ;D
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Nice job Lisa. Wish I could have seen you from John Wall :)
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...proof that Tilting Terrace wasn't a fluke a couple weeks ago. ;)
Of course some of us already knew that.
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Awesome job - glad to give you a belay. ;D
I'm looking forward to returning the favor in a couple weeks! ;D
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Congrats!
5.9 route lined up?
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5.9 route lined up?
Heck - it's taken me three years to get this far...might be a while for the next leap.
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Congratulations, CruxLuv! Thanks for sharing your excitement, and I'm totally feeling it all the way out here (in traffic from Pinnacles).
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Ugh...yeah, I was stuck in traffic coming home yesterday too.
Hopefully you're home now, nice and clean with a burrito in yer belly. ;)
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Heck - it's taken me three years to get this far...might be a while for the next leap.
I do not believe that.
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They may share a rating but what a vast difference between the two! It may have just been the wind and cold whipping around me today but the climb certainly got my attention in a few places whereas Tilting Terrace was just plain fun.
Abuela is sustained. You've done it, so I think you're solid for 5.9, Lisa. Thank Brad for getting bolt #6 in!
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Congrats! On my list too.
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I can always count on this bunch for a good ego strokin'. ;D
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Congrats!
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Abuela is sustained. You've done it, so I think you're solid for 5.9, Lisa. Thank Brad for getting bolt #6 in!
There ya go. Coach says you're ready. Just find a nice one that resonates with you, and takes gear or nice clips, then you'll be set.
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Okay - looks like I'm at least ready for suggestions - I trust you guys.
Well, most of you.
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- I trust you guys.
What?!
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…well, most of you.
I was going to give some ideas for a first 5.9 lead, but I guess the comment above puts me out of the running :o
Hey, but I can comment about 5.10a. Talk to J.C. about Side Horse in the High Peaks. It's truly 5.10a, but it's a boulder problem crux (Crux) that's part of a longer, much easier climb. 5.10a is number you could do and that you could have fun with!
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Tilting Terrace is 5.6. Side Horse may be 5.10b for certain heights.
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I trust you guys.
That put me out of running too. :o
But hey, I don't have a route to recommend anyway. First, follow enough 5.9's (and maybe even 5.10's) and you'll know when you are ready to lead, which can be very very soon. Next time, maybe not to turn away from that TR on Wet Kiss? ;)
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I would never trust me but here it goes.
Little Javalina - this is a nice route with a good location. Others have a better memory and can probably give a decent sanity check.
Rebecca's Sailing - I think this is a good choice and a pretty decent route.
Bits 'N' Pieces - Kind of like Rebecca's
I really think you can lead any of the 9's on the Flumes. They are all there, just relax, breath and take full advantage of the rests. Absolutely do not care how long the lead takes. Keep your weight on your feet. You can get no hands rests on those if you do the high step rest that we talked about. Just pick one TR it three times then go.
Here's to sweat in your eye
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I really think you can lead any of the 9's on the Flumes. They are all there, just relax, breath and take full advantage of the rests.
I think this is excellent advice. I have only led about a dozen 9's in Pinns and 5 of them were on the Flumes (since B&P extension counts as a route). I also really like Twisted Sister for a slab route and it is well protected right where you need it.
Adam's Apple was my first 9 and the day we met Brad :) Short crux.
Do Cool Daze first and the 9's will probably feel easier - that sucker is pumpy and exhilarating but also has a couple of good rests.
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That's actually two bits of fantastic advice from two Pinnacles veterans. I'd add that I recall Little Javelina being a bit on the sustained side. Maybe don't make it your first 5.9 (instead make it your proudest).
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Do Cool Daze first and the 9's will probably feel easier -
Exactly what I was thinking. Probably be my next 5.8.
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About Face
You Insolent Peasant
Sundog Millionaire
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Really solid advice and interesting list of stuff I've never heard of -
Thanks for the high-step rest reminder, mud - gonna work on that in the gym.
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interesting list of stuff I've never heard of -
Munge forgot to mention his recs are not in Pinns.
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Munge forgot to mention his recs are not in Pinns.
Ya know...I had an inkling after writing that... ;)
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I'll throw my votes in for the stuff on the Flumes, all very fun routes on good rock (and plenty of shade to boot!)
You all are giving me good ideas for a tick list next time I get out there!
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next time I get out there!
Hopefully sooner than later! 8)
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That's actually two bits of fantastic advice from two Pinnacles veterans. I'd add that I recall Little Javelina being a bit on the sustained side. Maybe don't make it your first 5.9 (instead make it your proudest).
I agree with Brad here: Little Javelina is a great line (one of my favorite 5.9s at Pinnacles) but the first half or two-thirds of the route is pretty sustained. It is a long pitch, too. Regardless, it is a must-do 5.9 for you at some point!
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Yup, I agree, Little Javelina is a damn great climb. And I agree, not a good 1st 5.9 (it's bolted safely, but you don't want to hand). Wet Kiss is a better one.
It needs some soft brushing, but the rock is solid.
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Great job Lisa! Your doing it now!