MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: mj on June 08, 2015, 02:40:36 PM
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Tried to beat the heat on Sunday by climbing in the shade of Machete Ridge in the morning. My friend wanted a tour up part of Machete, so we figured up to the meadow just below the headwall where some of the aid routes begin would be a good way to spend the day.
Starting out on Lucky 13, someone added a hanger to the lowest bolt stud on the wall. I'm not sure what good a bolt 6 feet off the ground does for you. I also vaguely remember the first bolt being higher up, did more get put in?
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll39/mjellis42/aa439ebb-bbf7-4f14-8285-937faf6654dd_zpsp575oklu.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/mjellis42/media/aa439ebb-bbf7-4f14-8285-937faf6654dd_zpsp575oklu.jpg.html)
I took the first (attempted) lead of the route, but got a quick ride back to the ground when my handhold broke off while clipping the 2nd (3rd??) bolt. Just enough rope out to make it wall the way back down without getting a wedgie.
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll39/mjellis42/D7E5078A-A566-4AAB-9A0C-1CF3F66F20C5_zpszjhiaccl.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/mjellis42/media/D7E5078A-A566-4AAB-9A0C-1CF3F66F20C5_zpszjhiaccl.jpg.html)
At least I got the draw clipped :)
I tried falling my way up the route after that, but didn't make much more headway once the adrenaline wore off. My friend took over the lead and we were up to Alias Bandit Bench in no time. He continued the lead over the traverse to the base of the Badman Mezzanine chimney (this was the first time he's ever done a traverse and was stoked!).
I took the lead up Full Throttle, which was way more fun than I thought it would be! My 60M probably only had 5ft of slack to spare by the time I made the anchors. Sitting up on the ledge and meadow is probably one of my favorite places in the park
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll39/mjellis42/9D88567A-3692-4567-9799-2B619161A370_zpslgavauxe.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/mjellis42/media/9D88567A-3692-4567-9799-2B619161A370_zpslgavauxe.jpg.html)
We (somewhat) reversed West Face and traversed climbers right to the meadow for a short break.
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll39/mjellis42/6CC384E9-68A1-4151-A396-E71E74047DDA_zpsyg8sbk2u.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/mjellis42/media/6CC384E9-68A1-4151-A396-E71E74047DDA_zpsyg8sbk2u.jpg.html)
Did I mention my friend is a snake charmer in his spare time?
The sun was pretty much full on us by this point and it was too hot to hang out much longer, so we rapped down to the ledge over Dos Equis, down-climbed to collect our things, and escaped to the shade at the Flumes for a little bit.
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll39/mjellis42/39C1B053-5DEE-4FBF-8EE9-51BFD27A2FE9_zpsn7u6dw6z.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/mjellis42/media/39C1B053-5DEE-4FBF-8EE9-51BFD27A2FE9_zpsn7u6dw6z.jpg.html)
I must say that I love the colors on the wall just to the right of our descent! So cool looking!
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll39/mjellis42/FE0710C3-D63C-4947-8F3E-4994504B788B_zps7cqajmdt.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/mjellis42/media/FE0710C3-D63C-4947-8F3E-4994504B788B_zps7cqajmdt.jpg.html)
Part of me wishes we could have topped out on Machete, but it was WAY too hot to be messing with aid climbing. I think a return trip to the top will have to wait until next fall.
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Nice job and great trip report man! 8)
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I must say that I love the colors on the wall just to the right of our descent! So cool looking!
Part of me wishes we could have topped out on Machete, but it was WAY too hot to be messing with aid climbing. I think a return trip to the top will have to wait until next fall.
Those cool colors are Pigeon Crack but you gotta be crazy to climb it.
No one added anything to Lucky 13. It's an old aid ladder.
The first two bolts had missing hangers for years.
Bruce and Clint replaced all the hangers Jan 2014 (see my list at the end of the rebolt sticky)
If you've never done it - consider reversing the Machete descent and climb Barber's Backside to get to the top of the ridge early.
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Great to see you getting out.
My advice for going there in the summer:
-Evenings are nice...Muchshitty is in the shade I think in the evening.
-Day time, wait for a monster marine layer to come in and the wind will blow cool air...but get off by 11 or your shoes will melt.
Great job on those routes. Yeah, finding the loose ones sucks, but if you gotta fall...might as well be like that.
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they did it right. Machete morning, Flumes afternoon.
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Break a mirror or break a hold on Lucky Thirteen, I don't know. Fry Fest on Machete in the afternoon in this heat.
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nice! TFPU
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Those cool colors are Pigeon Crack but you gotta be crazy to climb it.
Ahem. Ahem. Some of us are listening.
Nice trip report mj, although I wouldn't a placed you among the CRAZIES who climb there in this heat.
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Ahem, ahem - We're maniacs :)
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Ahem, ahem - We're maniacs Smiley
Brace yourself for the knee.
Climb that 10b after is been upgraded with SS.
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Climb that 10b after is been upgraded with SS
paging the kid, paging the kid, come in kid?
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paging the kid, paging the kid, come in kid?
brace yourself...good one clink...
kid don't help - kid don't climb :)
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brace yourself...good one clink...
kid don't help - kid don't climb :)
Kid do climb. But maybe she climb in sensible location while it is hot.
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Kid do climb. Maybe she climb in sensible location while it hot.
mmmmm...Kemosabe - me see she go that a way...
That's why they make chocolate and vanilla - mud maniacs would dance on coals for some crud :)
Spontaneous Combustion is a current project and Made in the Shade is likely to happen :)
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Thanks all for the sage advice!
Ahem. Ahem. Some of us are listening.
Nice trip report mj, although I wouldn't a placed you among the CRAZIES who climb there in this heat.
Delusions of sanity have nothing to do with my climbing choices..... Proximity and time make the decision on my behalf!
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Those cool colors are Pigeon Crack but you gotta be crazy to climb it.
Do you know anyone who has climbed the pigeon crack? Or what gear is required? It looks like mostly big gear, but I've never been close enough to really see.
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Do you know anyone who has climbed the pigeon crack? Or what gear is required? It looks like mostly big gear, but I've never been close enough to really see.
http://www.mudncrud.com/forums/index.php?topic=1960.0
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After reading about it and talking to Brad I inked in the words STAY AWAY in my guidebook.
There is no gear and the rock sounds like some of the worst anywhere.
I have done a few of the X rated routes in Pinns but this one will not be getting checked off my list.