MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: JC w KC redux on August 10, 2015, 04:25:13 PM
-
Dumb
Well...clink basically implied that I am among his idiot partners a while ago, so I may as well fess up.
As I continue to rack up new(established) routes, I seem to be getting worse rather than better.
This is however - no reflection on my rebolting work - all of that stuff is absolutely stellar :)
Lately I seem to be learning the hard way on The Frog.
3 weekends ago I led Ski Jump and missed the 3rd bolt.
Sadly, I had even pulled the topo out of my pocket to look at it when I couldn't see the 3rd bolt from the 2nd bolt.
Now what did I do on that particular climb?
Well...I think part of the error occurred when I had been out to The Frog on a previous occasion and spent some time scoping out various climbs in anticipation of a return trip. I noticed from the ground that one of the bolts was further to the right than what was indicated on the topo and made a note in my book. The problem was - I was looking at the 3rd bolt - thinking it was the second. Now the "corrected" topo showed the 2nd bolt over to the right - which meant that I should be looking for the 3rd bolt more or less straight up from there. Of course I saw nothing but a variety of tasty knobs. At that point I did what came naturally. The rock seemed unusually solid and there was a good sling knob to my left - so I slung it. Now with no bolt in sight - several ways looked tempting. I thought - "what would I do if I was working on a FA?" Well...I would follow the obvious line of course - choosing the juiciest holds and working to the next stance. Looking up I saw chunky goodness leading to a big lodestone - just ripe for stancing and so obvious...so up I went. I slung the big lodestone (solid and positive) and moved up onto it - ahhh - the perfect stance. Now...where is that pesky bolt? Looking around I was dismayed...how could someone pass up such a wondrous opportunity? I eventually started looking down and lo and behold - well down and to my right was the bolt. WTF?!!! I cast off into the easy runout. Now if someone is uncomfortable with runout - I would hesitate to recommend this climb. The bottom part is definitely the money section - too bad it's over so quickly. Yes - the upper section is easy, but you could still fall before the midway anchor - and if you do - you're history. Isn't that the norm for "easy" Pinns climbing though? Just call it another no fall route, climb and enjoy :)
I thought the section above the midway belay was pretty good too. I did have some difficulty locating the 2nd bolt.
It was further left than I expected - on the edge, if not actually in the water chute and that chute is very mossy - reminded me of Where the Sun Don't Shine. The hanger is also one of those camo things which imo should never be used as a lead bolt hanger - anchors okay - but not lead bolts. One nice thing about the climb is the whole route has been rebolted - albeit with non stainless hardware. The metal looks good and the installations are good too.
Dumber
Yesterday I went up to work on some bolts that I identified as needing replacement while enjoying Ski Jump.
I led Lonesome Dove to get to the top and also to check out the rebolt that had been reported for the route.
I was a bit peeved when I got to the first bolt - only to see a rusty old stud with a shiny stainless hanger.
Looking up there was more of the same.
Now again - if you don't like easy runout I would be hesitant to recommend this climb.
It is nearly as far to the first bolt as it is to the midway anchor (more like 2/3 of the way) on Ski Jump.
I evidently didn't know how to read the topo on this route either. When I showed it to Kat last night and asked her what she would or wouldn't do based on the topo - she was fairly quick to say - "I wouldn't clip the 3rd bolt - it's off route."
SPOILER ALERT?
Silly me - I remembered and read what the description said - climb straight up past three bolts and then up and left past three more bolts. Reading the natural line and looking at the rock quality and the available holds from bolt 3 was illuminating. I speculate that the FA party climbed up and placed the 3rd bolt and then realized that continuing up from there might not be the best way to proceed. They downclimbed below bolt 3 and went up and left to a perfect stance below bolt 4. If you were to move horizontally left from bolt 3 to bolt 4, bolt 4 would be almost at your feet - and last time I checked - it's difficult to drill a bolt between your feet! Bolt 2 is also in a sort-of alcove - so if you don't put an extended runner on it - you're hosed on rope drag. Insert Noal's t-shirt slogan here :)
Now if you think I've tainted your onsight of the climb there are still plenty of surprises awaiting you. For instance - watch out for a big lodestone in the easy lower part that completely lifted off from the rock when I tested it. It was too big to jettison. If you wait a few weeks I should have the climb rebolted.
-
It's not possible that your beta "tainted" anyone's onsight of either route. Yep, impossible.
How do I know this? Easy. Your comment is on the internet. And it's a long comment. And there are no photos. Add up all those factors and they equal: NO-ONE WILL READ PAST THE FIRST TWO LINES, IT'S THE INTERNET :P :P
You'll next point out that I in fact read it all. Yes, I did. But I don't count because I could read before there was an internet, and I've done both routes anyway.
-
NO-ONE WILL READ PAST THE FIRST TWO LINES, IT'S THE INTERNET :P :P
Eyes are watering, stomach hurts - I knew I could count on you!
-
I thought this thread was going to be about our idea to buy a chimpanzee, disguise him as a climber, and have him assist us in re-bolting by carrying all the gear. ???
-
I thought this thread was going to be about our idea to buy a chimpanzee???
Okay - that's two gut busting comments - made it worth creating the thread.
Hard acts to follow - Now everybody can hijack...
-
I thought this thread was going to be about our idea to buy a chimpanzee, disguise him as a climber....
Nelkins, WTF? J.C.told me that you are a chimpanzee disguised as a climber and that we got to know you so you would haul all our gear around?
Now what am I supposed to think?
-
busted.
-
and I've done both routes anyway.
JC, you are the third strike. The first ascent party climbs a dangerous route and no one in their right mind repeats it, sometimes for decades until this guy from Sonora(I know TH is east Sonora but this is how it was reported to me) tries to climb every route in the Monument, no matter how bad and the route gets repeated in deranged but mostly good style. Then you go and climb the route.
So Dumb, Dumber and ..................!
Yup, how many "third ascents" have you done JC, of routes which that guy from Sonora did the "second ascent" ?
;)
Nelkins, layoff on the bananas.
-
The guy isn't from "Sonora" no matter how it was reported to you. Although I should give you credit: at least you said Sonora. Most BAPs would have said Sonoma and not known the difference.
And before you Santa Cruzians jump on me, I did not just call Clink a BAP. Santa Cruz is no more Bay Area than Sonora is (if I lived there, which I don't). I'm only saying that he did better than those people who are BAPs. >:D
-
Back to chimpanzees @ the Pinns. If the government/Nasa can put chimps into space can't they overlook the no pets rules in national parks to let us do the first chimp and man FA at Pinnacles?
-
You must be bored to be monkeying around so much?
-
MY EYES!!!
I CANNOT UNSEE THE BETA!!!!
oh well.
East Sonora? Good way to get uninvited to dinner there Hoss.
I look forward to Frog time in the Autumn.
-
I was informed that i had better get to SPH at least 2 more times this year to climb or Brad will never climb at Pinnacles again.
That is the emptiest threat ever. Sounds like a good idea if the cool summer weekends stop and we get typical triple digit temps.
Waldo, good to see you post. We were wondering what you have been up to grandpa. Mud found a High Peaks beauty, we had a good time working on. Looking forward to seeing everyone for the trail days.
-
and you'll probably go up there when I'm not around.
I see what's going on.
it's a conspiracy!
:o
-
Waldo, good to see you post. We were wondering what you have been up to grandpa. Mud found a High Peaks beauty, we had a good time working on. Looking forward to seeing everyone for the trail days.
Orangutan over here - I'm bald. Gramps is headed for Croatia in a couple of weeks to check in with the new kid.
-
Gramps is headed for Croatia in a couple of weeks to check in with the new kid.
We will be anticipating your TR with pics of the "new kid"
-
John,
If you thought those routes were questionable, you should try the Beyers routes on the Frog.
***
John I like you too much recommend a Beyers route in any shape or form.
-
John,
If you thought those routes were questionable, you should try the Beyers routes on the Frog.
***
John I like you too much recommend a Beyers route in any shape or form.
Oh believe me - I'm very familiar with his work. His routes are the remaining ones out there that need rebolting.
-
John,
If you thought those routes were questionable, you should try the Beyers routes on the Frog.
***
John I like you too much recommend a Beyers route in any shape or form.
Beyer routes are kind of cool in their own way.
-
Cool like the slab at the morgue.
-
Cool like the slab at the morgue.
;D ;D
-
That is a great route name. Or for next years t-shirts.
Cool like the slab at the morgue.
Climbing at Pinns.