MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Everywhere Else => Topic started by: Brad Young on August 22, 2015, 08:07:54 PM
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So K.C., how was that 140 foot first pitch? Wasn't it your first gear first ascent? Wild isn't it, striking out on unknown terrain, hoping and expecting that it'll go? Helluva nice job. Pretty rock too. On a gorgeous day.
And who led the second pitch? Working on the crack climbing skills on lead (yeah, that's what we DO in the SUMMER)?
Psychopomp Corner 5.7 * (two pitches, 255 feet total, rap off left, 100 feet).
It's a little way below/on the way to Deadman Buttress (so when you google "psychopomp" you'll understand the context of the name).
And, technically, we found an old, two-quarter-inch bolt anchor at 175 feet, so we only did the FA of the whole 255 foot route (which included the second crux - the unknown first FA party didn't do that part of what we did).
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Psychopomp Corner 5.7 *
No circumstance?
Working on the crack climbing skills on lead (yeah, that's what we DO in the SUMMER)?
Ouch.
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Either J.C. or K.C. ought to post a photo of one of them doing "the beached whale." It was a great move.
And K.C., how long did it take you to place that bolt on lead? The first bolt you've placed on lead in granite? Impeccable granite too, great bolt.
Psychopomp Slab 5.6 ** and 115 feet long (needs one more bolt, but we'd run out, so we ran it out).
Working on perfect rock slab climbing skills (yeah, that's also what we DO in the SUMMER!).
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So K.C., how was that 140 foot first pitch? Wasn't it your first gear first ascent? Wild isn't it, striking out on unknown terrain, hoping and expecting that it'll go? Helluva nice job.
Thanks Brad. Yes, my first gear FA and only my second gear lead on granite. It was exciting and a little nerve wracking - I am pretty sure you guys could hear my big sigh of relief when I got to the belay ledge. Thanks again for the encouragement and patience.
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No circumstance?
clink - the circumstance was me pulling over a first bulge - then looking at a short section of steep crack and wanting to back off. I had a good cam in and was able to reach up to my limit to slot a nut. At that point it was either try it or lower off. Brad took over on belay while I proceeded to turn a 5.7 into a 5.9 - seems to be my special talent. My first beached whale maneuver over the top and I was set to do the rest.
In an attempt to redeem myself - I exhibited better form while running it out on our new slab route to finish the day. In addition to making me very proud by leading an unknown pitch on gear - KC placed her first bolt on lead with a Bosch.
KC leading into the unknown
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3ct7RmLm5DzBBU66D1-YFeQE4I0Ze_dJeZkzDQRqegUhL9b_rFQ7MrSY1QV4CBykrOsZ14GptOXBVuyDEp0-jBqjWAg2LAC7yLO0P_l3CC-qFE92Q-fnC7uogVMd_Ao_JWsbdRMZhj4-nfQ4-kyb3Fa=w750-h563-no?authuser=0)
JC’s beached whale maneuver
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3egfv3x36VAor3-ky-AXGU8I4a-oYx4qnMJ-DTNbkTTqcsTPLWGWNoqH_OLLjpzP2P_nlT79WXeFlwTh35_6cr8GdRDbZ9SbQqLnLZIkhw7tqFojPA5om88f6q5fZcewafbQUBMgOeWQJ4kR8AueONQ=w529-h625-no?authuser=0)
KC’s beached whale maneuver
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eIdlLwZaAkDoIfKrsknkA7mZXi7ajQrDtrs4swrCL8SIzIajP2ZHaAdRC64zwre7RRutYWS4xnuxYC95ZH813NQHar4V326D-QjZLxb9JZOoxq1FplNXYOTwQVOzb8Lde_qlJZ7TLj3WZClN3oyqnv=w593-h625-no?authuser=0)
JC runs it out for the coveted 2nd ascent of Psychopomp Slab
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cuFds7nDY8EaYuhblykKk4S7kj_cN7Im62ieA_8GJdZclJ80eog8sr4JsQz-qXK6HLXY2BxmWQytOtauCGiNjlYakhK7XHa8ndOM_-IhUtJlYaMHdFBvR1epVqCKFrkjy_h7mrrve4DxM66CALon_r=w586-h625-no?authuser=0)
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And K.C., how long did it take you to place that bolt on lead? The first bolt you've placed on lead in granite? Impeccable granite too, great bolt.
I think it took me longer to get the drill on my harness and move up to the second stance than to place the bolt. A girl could get spoiled drilling with a Bosch. ;D
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Those photos turned out nicely.
Psychopomp Corner got its coveted second ascent today (at least as to the whole length, including the second crux bulge). Aaron and I ran up it, enjoying it thoroughly. We confirmed it at 5.7, one star. I also got the first lead of Love Lies Bleeding, just up the hill. This route is 5.11a *** (we'd previously thought two stars, but that thing is sweet, clean, fairly continuous and 90 feet long - three stars for sure).
Aaron got a bunch of routes in, including Toccata, a very good, sustained, long 5.10b. It was a damn good lead.
And, most importantly (at least from some perspectives) Charlotte and Halifax got to start and end the day in ice cold stream water.
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KC placed her first bolt on lead with a Bosch
With great battery life comes great responsibility.
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Parliamentary Debates FROM THE YEAR 1803 TO THE PRESENT TIME, T.C. Hansard.
The Quote is:" that the possession of great power necessarily implies great responsibility" page, 614
1227] HOUSE OF COMMONS, . Habeas Corput Suspension Bill. (1803-1817)
I did think of Munge today when a BLL commercial came on. It was a pool party where you bring your own kiddie pool to soak in while drinking BLL. The commercial was promoting the new bottle design and the catchy slogan is Summer On.
This is what hand drillers think of batteries,
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Truth be told I worked both days this weekend and am jealous of all your climbing exploits, living vicariously through your posts. Great pics. Congrats guys and KC!
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Truth be told I worked both days this weekend and am jealous of all your climbing exploits, living vicariously through your posts. Great pics. Congrats guys and KC!
thanks dude :)
Those photos turned out nicely.
Psychopomp Corner got its coveted second ascent today (at least as to the whole length, including the second crux bulge). Aaron and I ran up it, enjoying it thoroughly. We confirmed it at 5.7, one star. I also got the first lead of Love Lies Bleeding, just up the hill. This route is 5.11a *** (we'd previously thought two stars, but that thing is sweet, clean, fairly continuous and 90 feet long - three stars for sure).
Aaron got a bunch of routes in, including Toccata, a very good, sustained, long 5.10b. It was a damn good lead.
And, most importantly (at least from some perspectives) Charlotte and Halifax got to start and end the day in ice cold stream water.
I figured you two would have a blast and it sounds like you did :)
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Hey, I worked all THREE days this weekend. I worked on Friday, when I climbed Psychopomp with 30 pounds of bolting gear and chain. I especially worked on Saturday, when we did all burly routes on Bienvenidos Wall. And I worked today too, humping uphill for 20 minutes to reach perfect rock.
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humping uphill
Suddenly the title to your biography came to me.
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Nice job.
For Santa Cruzians that move is the banana slug move.
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Suddenly the title to your biography came to me.
Careful, this is a family web-site :o
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For Santa Cruzians that move is the banana slug move.
Sounds kinda bland - try adding salt :)
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Well, let's be blunt: there ain't no banana slugs in the world that could be anywhere near that boney. Nope, it's not a banana slug move.
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A psychopomp (from the Greek word ψυχοπομπός - psuchopompos, literally meaning the "guide of souls") is a creature, spirit, angel, or deity in many religions whose responsibility is to escort newly deceased souls from Earth to the afterlife. Their role is not to judge the deceased, but simply to provide safe passage.
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I always forget psyche is a greek root for soul/mind.
The greek myth that comes to my mind is Charon, ferryman of the dead, but apparently Hermes and Apollo are also psychopomps? Trismegistos?
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A psychopomp (from the Greek word ψυχοπομπός - psuchopompos, literally meaning the "guide of souls") is a creature, spirit, angel, or deity in many religions whose responsibility is to escort newly deceased souls from Earth to the afterlife. Their role is not to judge the deceased, but simply to provide safe passage.
Cool. But for you dear agnostic friends, If you are already dead, what is there to fear? Should have named it Recycle Bin.
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We put the needed fifth bolt on Psychopomp Slab yesterday (although we didn't locktite it - J.C. please help me remember to do that next weekend).
Dark clouds, cold temps, and chilly wind made it feel like November up there yesterday. Hoping for warmer today at Burst Rock.
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. Hoping for wet weather.
I modified your statement.
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I always forget psyche is a greek root for soul/mind.
The greek myth that comes to my mind is Charon, ferryman of the dead, but apparently Hermes and Apollo are also psychopomps? Trismegistos?
Was this apart of pre-law?? Or pre-med?
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post D&D
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Must have been pre-Mullet?
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I modified your statement.
It didn't' work. We had nice (and DRY) temps in the sun and chilly in the shade. Got a new FA and a bunch of other stuff done.
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I noticed that pre-Mullet and post D&D were ignored. Therefore please expound and post pics.
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We put the needed fifth bolt on Psychopomp Slab yesterday (although we didn't locktite it - J.C. please help me remember to do that next weekend).
Thanks - looking forward to leading it next weekend. Did anyone else lead it yesterday?
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(http://i.kinja-img.com/gawker-media/image/upload/s--BvrQcDw_--/c_fit,fl_progressive,q_80,w_636/19fzhlzth9s86jpg.jpg)
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Thanks - looking forward to leading it next weekend. Did anyone else lead it yesterday?
Define "lead?"
Roger wanted to check it out, so he ran up it with the bolting gear. He did put on climbing shoes. He used a rope. And he clipped all the bolts. He thought it was very good rock and 5.5.
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Mr Mud has a thing for mullets....must remind him of childhood.
And D&D I guess.
Mungie is well ejumacated...
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Roger wanted to check it out, so he ran up it with the bolting gear. He thought it was very good rock and 5.5.
How many stars? I vote that Roger is not allowed to rate climbs in this range - stick to 10 and above :)
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How many stars? I vote that Roger is not allowed to rate climbs in this range - stick to 10 and above :)
I didn't ask what he thought of the quality. He obviously liked it. I'm sticking with two stars. It's so clean and at 115 feet, it's got some length. Maybe others will climb it this weekend and we'll get their input.
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Maybe others will climb it this weekend and we'll get their input.
Define "others"
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Maybe others will climb it this weekend and we'll get their input.
Caleb and I will be digging 8ft deep around a house to reseal block walls and put in french drain. What is with the French having to get credit for toast, fries, kisses etc.?
Others def.- Sane people who don't routinely climb all summer at Pinnacles.
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Define "others"
Anyone other than you, me or Roger (the only people who've led it so far). Joel, Brian and Whitney all wanted to do it, but we moved down there at the very end of the day.
And who knows, maybe Munge has done it by now. I think he was up at Chipmunk yesterday? But if he was, he was probably working on some project of his own.
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Others def.- Sane people who don't routinely climb all summer at Pinnacles.
Pot/Kettle.
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Who knows, maybe Munge has done it by now.
He told KC he couldn't find it.
IMHO - Joel, Whitney, Kat and Munge would be a good sampling.
clink too but he seems to be in a rut...
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They're at it again....
Climbed at The Mousetrap today. While there, everyone got in good climbs. Annnnnd:
Benjamin Franklin 5.6 (no stars, but we had fun).
FA: September 5, 2015, Brad Young, Brian Hamilton, Joel Primrose, John and Kathy Cook.
Gear: small to four inches.
They'll post photos when they can (they better at least).
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I shall return!
Right now I'm in South Dakota.
Seen hawks, buffalo, wild climbers, Pronghorns, wild horses, deer, and a MOOSE!!
stand off with the moose on a trail. Didn't get a good pic. But my second wild moose ever.
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Wildemoost?
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My above post is for me google historic. No results, zip, nada.
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I shall return!
Right now I'm in South Dakota.
Seen hawks, buffalo, wild climbers, Pronghorns, wild horses, deer, and a MOOSE!!
stand off with the moose on a trail. Didn't get a good pic. But my second wild moose ever.
Excellent, just excellent. Enjoy the trip!
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Granite blah, blah blah. You are being hijacked. Eastside at 0630.
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Granite blah, blah blah. You are being hijacked. Eastside at 0630.
Nope. They're still here (just had dinner, all of us, at Dawsons). Birthday song and cheesecake for the birthday girl.
K.C. led two routes today and J.C. four.
I think they're going to Herring Creek Dome with Dawsons tomorrow. Tricia and I are going to hike a Sierra Peak (I've been climbing pretty hard and I need a rest/hiking day).
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Well the Central Coast is having some nice weather.
You guys are missing out.
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very nice!
Labor
Day
Labor Day: Sunny and hot, with a high near 101. East wind around 5 mph becoming calm in the morning.
Hot
High: 101 °F
Tonight
Tonight: Clear, with a low around 53. West northwest wind 5 to 9 mph becoming light and variable in the evening.
Clear
Low: 53 °F
Tuesday
Tuesday: Sunny and hot, with a high near 104. East wind around 5 mph becoming calm.
Hot
High: 104 °F
Tuesday
Night
Tuesday Night: Clear, with a low around 58. Northwest wind 3 to 6 mph.
Clear
Low: 58 °F
Wednesday
Wednesday: Sunny and hot, with a high near 108. East wind around 5 mph becoming west in the morning.
Hot
High: 108 °F
Wednesday
Night
Wednesday Night: Clear, with a low around 61.
Clear
Low: 61 °F
Thursday
Thursday: Sunny and hot, with a high near 109.
Hot
High: 109 °F
Thursday
Night
Thursday Night: Clear, with a low around 61.
Clear
Low: 61 °F
Friday
Friday: Sunny and hot, with a high near 108.
Hot
High: 108 °F
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Wow, and the prediction for today on Leavitt Peak (at 11,669 feet) is: "Sunny, with a high near 66. Calm wind becoming west around 5 mph in the afternoon."
We'll likely be able to see into the San Joaquin Valley to the west and into Nevada to the east.
And it's only an hour drive to the trailhead.
Yeah, screw it, we're on our way to Pinns for the day. See you just after 8:30.
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Maybe Pinns might have been better. I most commonly succeed in what I set out to do. But today Tricia and I failed monumentally. Big time. Totally screwed. Abject failure. Utter fiasco.
To say the least, we didn't summit.
We thought we'd start from south of the peak and hike to it and up it before continuing toward Sonora Pass. And Vicki would hike up from the pass to finish the walk out with us. Hiking in this direction required us to start at Leavitt Lake.
The road in to Leavitt Lake is even worse than I'd heard (and I'd heard it was pretty bad). We turned around after the Expedition slid into a hole (while in first gear/low four wheel drive). Both of the side running boards were shattered.
OK, it's only "material" right? So we turned around. Or Vicki took over the wheel and did. Tricia and I simply started up the peak from halfway out the road. It's only cross country, right? Right. I've never done harder cross country. Side-hilling in scree for hundreds of yards. Huge elevation gain. One step up, nine tenths of a step down. Cliffed out numerous times. Going north and east in order to work around so we can go west. Big elevation loss. Jesus!
By the time we hit the PCT we were spent. And to summit the peak we'd have had to go away from the car a full mile, top out, and then reverse the same hike. No way. Too tired. Almost out of water. Smoke from the fires blowing back in. Screw it, we're out of here.
At least we met Vicki a mile and change up from the pass, right on time (although "on time" as planned had included summiting the peak before meeting).
Tricia gleefully commented that we've now got a new measuring tool, a "worst day of hiking" to which we can compare anything else in the future. Or her version of words to that effect.
And I got to spent a day with my daughter in adverse conditions, work through crap, come out OK from it all, and still have time to stop on the way home for a damn good hamburger.
Plus, unlike some parts of some routes at Pinnacles, Leavitt Peak will be there next time we try (and next time we're going all by trail).
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That road was tough in my old ranger 4x4 when we drove it in 98??
It used to be easy so says my buddy.
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Maybe Pinns might have been better. I most commonly succeed in what I set out to do. But today Tricia and I failed monumentally. Big time. Totally screwed. Abject failure. Utter fiasco.
To say the least, we didn't summit.
Wow! And I got to climb on routes with stars.
Tricia gleefully commented that we've now got a new measuring tool, a "worst day of hiking" to which we can compare anything else in the future. Or her version of words to that effect.
The price of gaining perspective. Tricia is a mountain warrior.
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Wow - that was a bit shocking to read. On the plus side - you guys got to have an unusual adventure.
Bummer about the truck - but at least you didn't get stuck or hurt.
Has someone taken over my body and brain - what is with all this looking on the bright side crap?
Kat and I got up to HCD around 11:00?
We talked to a couple from Palo Alto who said they'd already done Sea of T. I have my doubts.
We forgot to ask them if they had the guidebook - demerit for me.
We got up to the base of the route and the bees were very active.
As we were scoping things out, the sun came over the top of the dome and yep - right in your eyes for climbing the route.
We spent some time scrambling up to check out the other routes.
Kat wasn't feeling the T so I suggested she get back in touch with her inner gear climber.
About that time another couple (from NV) came up and we spent time chatting with them.
It was their first time on the pass.
They told us they had climbed Hexentric and Pygmy Pillars on Sunday - they must have been on the pillars when we passed by. They didn't do Lincoln Logs but said they thoroughly enjoyed the rest.
We gave them some recs for a short day with easy approaches.
Kat led Teacher and I followed - a few pieces up I heard Laura and Alex - then looked down to see Steve leading the smoky charge. Luckily the smoke cleared out significantly as the day progressed.
It was a "one and done" day for me and KC. We were both feeling pretty wiped - so we headed out.
The Dawsons were still having fun on the elderly routes and were talking about possibly doing Teacher for an encore.
Really nice weekend :)
P.S. - I just checked temps for Pinns and it was 98 yesterday and already 94 as I finish this post - totally doable :)
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Did the couple from Nevada have a guidebook? Two demerits for you.
Photos?
Yes, great weekend. I'm still jazzed about getting Atom Splitter clean. Plus the stuff at Deadman.
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Did the couple from Nevada have a guidebook? Two demerits for you.
Photos?
They did have one - I suggested they get another :)
Workin' on it...
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They did have one - I suggested they get another :)
Workin' on it…
Dude, you go from two demerits to five bonus points!
Did they lug that ridiculous thing all the way up to Herring Creek Dome?
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Dude, you go from two demerits to five bonus points!
Did they lug that ridiculous thing all the way up to Herring Creek Dome?
Nice.
Yes they did and they were using Sea of T as an approach to Red Herring so they lugged it up there too :)
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Here's a couple pics from day 1
Brad on the FA onsight of Ottoman Empire
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3deC46KZEwnAtVQF1KYpTr-u3g2IK7MNR1AzECYvbGYNCaz51n1jRLRm1n6aGgAoQrGtY14SRmFv5ajHeEtqq3bCeCu89kcNenvVmumNSyblftz-gI4nL8iE-aYnVQwxSk5imVHFvQ9ayf0YeDzsfXd=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
I led it a little later
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3e6pfKL87UNYEvixY1nseHpzsMviEwXWVwC6GcdlVX-QupYOlF10X3xCEjgnjQociG63VFp5y1Tylv3fKsarTdHKkBbvXof-sUTF3-0UzO8u07LEnAUR7mEfyS9pX7e9rikbqUVgueE8d6x_FhMYnUA=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
Kat followed Ottoman Empire while Brad and Brian belayed and watched Joel on Snap Shut Arete
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3e7HtWhJnPhoDNYuTNw9EAsodiFhKwfDi2GA54QHnqiWypijSNmB60VjOjRuQgxhIzlsFDVwjyV07GRq_oLMlKK5_8DLQRfpeKHvOmADLWOppkTZbERYqdF8vZa-T_dLAzfwSBBt5IYXkwKrF-zEOdP=w659-h625-no?authuser=0)
Brian on Snap Shut Arete. I led the nice crack to the left earlier but the pics were crap – Madeleine 5.8** – a nice hand crack leads to a fun hand traverse to the high ledge - a bolt protects the finish on a balancy arete. Super fun lead and a nice tribute to a missed little lady.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3f2pa2aBqM-o8yHhi0XyUT-tJ2JGGNCKPwz0PJaY442EsMO2A6ACxNf0brUBclitIEx86hy8upPZD6vZervfexCs1bQs5_htxnwC7Tvvgx-uMbjy5f87a_db8SgmagQWsPkph0tPBgxkHp-zLM3b5gV=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
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I've been informed that The Empire has fallen into enemy hands so I made a few edits to the photo captions.
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I've been informed that The Empire has fallen into enemy hands so I made a few edits to the photo captions.
By way of explanation, this small area where we put up new climbs is left of The Mousetrap and right of Main Burst Rock.
Older climbers here might recognize that The Mousetrap is a game wherein a ball drops on the mouse if a player screws up. There's a huge granite boulder precariously perched right above the route Mousetrap that looks exactly like that game ball, but it's five feet in diameter.
So in looking for a name for this jumbled area where the new climbs were done, Brian suggested that we name it for a different board game. J.C. then suggested Trivial Pursuit. That stuck immediately.
Joel then proceeded to tell us how, when he plays Trivial Pursuit, if he can't think of any answer at all, his fallback is "Benjamin Franklin." That led to J.C.'s fallback answer, which is "Ottoman Empire."
So there you go - the fascinating and totally arbitrary way that routes are named.
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In my defense...although I haven't played Trivial Pursuit that many times...I've won every time :)
...Unlike getting my arse handed to me repeatedly by a certain bright and quick 13 year old while playing bananagrams!
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So there you go - the fascinating and totally arbitrary way that routes are named.
People too, especially children of hippies and celebrities.
I've been informed that The Empire has fallen into enemy hands so I made a few edits to the photo captions.
Damn invaders ruin everything.
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So there you go - the fascinating and totally arbitrary way that routes are named.
I've been around a lot of FAs in my years of climbing. And I've been around some good route names too.
In all that though, one of my favorites (a new route at Pinns from less than two years ago) is Joaquin the Dog. It's a name that makes me smile every time.
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I've been around a lot of FAs in my years of climbing. And I've been around some good route names too.
In all that though, one of my favorites (a new route at Pinns from less than two years ago) is Joaquin the Dog. It's a name that makes me smile every time.
It is good. Too bad the FAist advises that Joaquin away from this one is the smart thing to do :)
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Here's a few pics from Day 2
T moves up to bolt 3 on Psychopomp Slab – Steve and Alex are at the base – Laura is with me and Crista at the belay
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fnCYRfcaqGju0s2aw_JwekAGY7WCdxRY4yDOGUo_Bh-1ZcCp8N9HgWkpNNUPAFhll3aGtGswAotw771QwbhPSc86C66nPFmqZPZjxfNLembwU7HIjEK5OABYw96xca26O6K_o2fT7hzhqp5S4GPoX7=w542-h625-no?authuser=0)
T works toward the last bolt and blue alien above
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eetZFUkmogV22nFM0U1NOhyQgbu8fE4rTdA9hQiWv6MeH07CSpezVFu24WzumBplHjqz1dIsE5Thkg3K9mO8HVzfmKxX6ZQvdFJdWCvDkuGlXRpknMApgS0IGA6egkUOx3gxdhEFwc08qXS62gE0Ul=w750-h563-no?authuser=0)
My two favorite kids – T raps as Alex climbs
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3c0iagnV4-RcV50aZUEKhUv4i_ApbsWjXAK-uAiqWcUfPcZsdVLmYH_TU0paKwUhnxlVlFcDg0ghFaNYkFfZlxAl7lzQtUc30x6POvExSt6qmdH8FWMV16SDzslaWVRzARxHfP2xPyZHK2C57pF19tA=w833-h625-no?authuser=0)
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They were at it again; Chipmunk Flat for three days (I joined them today, but no FAs).
Here's John on "Bolts Before Beer"(one guess which Bud Lite Lime infested, now-local SPH climber put this one up):
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/728/20932599624_1239cdcd14_b.jpg)
Kathy led several routes this weekend. And John got a clean toprope of the hardest route he's ever done, "Love is Love," 5.10c (thin, thin edging and smearing):
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/587/21564231791_525fac991d_b.jpg)
Meanwhile, I'm starting to think about Pinns. In six weeks ;D
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Success today for Tricia and me:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/677/21397007018_4659502d0d_b.jpg)
And to prove that the photo above wasn't staged:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/701/20962070024_ec072a66e8_b.jpg)
It was windy:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/746/21573557382_0d381e8ae7_b.jpg)
Tricia took this photo of me and the dogs from north of us looking south. The number of peaks that are visible is just fantastic:
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5772/21558651476_e99b7a7dcb_b.jpg)
Visible in this photo are three different "layers" of peaks.
Starting in the far back are, from left to right, Mount Ritter (sharply triangular), Banner Peak, Mount Lyell (it's glacier - visible in front of the summit - is obvious), Mount McClure, Mount Ansel Adams. I've summitted the first three of these. They are west of Mammoth and must be 60 miles from Leavitt Peak.
Closer is the ridge with Tower Peak (huge from this close). On that same ridge, going rightward, are Craig and Snow Peaks (Snow is also "volcano shaped"). I've summitted all of these three.
Then, although it's hard to discern a separate ridge, Forsythe and Keyes Peaks are closer than Tower and the others (Forsythe is seemingly right in front of my face; it has jagged ridges). I haven't done either of these peaks (I may go in solo for three or four days to do these to in mid October).
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Fun trip report. We were both laughing hard at the pic of T in the wind and thought it was very cool that you included our register entry - thanks! Was the plastic orange thingy still at the summit? We needed you with us to point all that stuff out - I told Kat you would know it all :)
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Tiburcio’s meets SPH?
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fTjGwMG7vGaPpda_PyRBtO_9VoCzAVn9jKPRFlzxyY5FQAfgx2WNKc1fWZFtLs4rf64IjkxbZL3tlkh4jowJtU8PpvpB26siLpdjuk2c0ez6MYq89Gx0pQ7G6CmkMGUlovGKzxXVP9pUcFPWuDiwvW=w834-h625-no?authuser=0)
JC leading Season’s End 5.7R*
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cdzZQVMEhgcBATJTWfwe9YZG_v3_P_UDkUHOzsCEBDabetTgWO291YfYgtMKYBCnY_nD8z5s_xzt5sIWcAq3GwwKsImYQe8VCMnB4Hzg15I5FEhF6kOmIphWithExKtQzx9wMvkteeYg-JtdKuk_uk=w470-h625-no?authuser=0)
KC gets some Extra Miles
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3d3rsAbPYey0NR_lo_YsEThQfsj9-PaSb8EBNDsBpQK_ODzyz55Ty----GVydo7i__Yp2F8R0wIw0cOUZ8wrJiXX2CdP9TET7z4KvTPWuWgWxtKXIkl75w8f3-vPMqJj_v9EhpsfmJaWxFAKytRvP1t=w481-h625-no?authuser=0)
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pic of KC came out nice.
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pic of KC came out nice.
Agreed. Definitely my fave of the weekend - I cropped and auto contrasted it.
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pic of KC came out nice.
Thanks dude! It was a fun route to follow.
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Woot!
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That really is a great photo.
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Lot's to lichen.
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Holy crap, what a day yesterday. Perfect, sunny but cool conditions.
Among other fun, we finished a new route at The Missing Man Formation (named in honor of our friend Luc Gruenther): Never Forget 5.9 *** and so, so fun (we're still debating whether it's very sustained 5.9, or 5.10a; it needs more opinions). A bunch of us contributed to finishing the new route, including (yes, on granite) K.C. and J.C.
And J.C. was absolutely on fire - he did two of the best, most sustained leads I've ever seen him do (including the fourth lead of Never Forget itself).
I'll post some photos when I get a chance.
Heading to Burst Rock today.
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5.9
I decided to give up on Granite.
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(https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7780/29430729366_240f0925c5_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8105/29385414211_1b69f9e8ec_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8013/29385415361_542c66058b_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8076/29356804412_de64fee853_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8168/29176623600_98b51c7f17_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8356/29356827352_07b19a6d99_c.jpg)
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5.9
I decided to give up on Granite.
Won't happen.
BTW, people who tried one of your and my routes on Curbar Edge were cursing you today (I told them the runout at the top was your idea - although according to the guidebook, I did the first lead of it).
;) :D
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John and Kathy did a short crack as an FA today (at Curbar Edge). Then Tricia led it as her first gear lead (5.4):
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8591/29386020631_b92a0e207a_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8485/29386021821_9c60986ccb_c.jpg)
In a world-altering event though, John hasn't been able to come up with a name for the route yet. What gives? Is he losing it?
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In a world-altering event though, John hasn't been able to come up with a name for the route yet. What gives? Is he losing it?
Orange With Envy.
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In a world-altering event though, John hasn't been able to come up with a name for the route yet. What gives? Is he losing it?
I came up with one almost immediately to honor Rob but no one seemed to be on board.
Now since it is Alex Dawson's first time participating in a FA, we have decided it should be 2016 A.D.
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No Granite For Old Men
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No Granite For Old Men
Good one Mud :biggrin:
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If this crag didn't already have a name I believe Detachment Disorder would be appropriate
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dblA7jRhuAwnTUDgx56uiq9CikbDF6dj-6z9Fs26UosIlkHDhBhlLT0YN_tmodzbn5pcVhqA4zkeWRMjcYf2PAgh9uiC3nnU7kddwhgI8jm0CAaxiYDc0DU2Nl4w6mlyylJ4TDyKwxurzn5dPerbmG=w700-h525-no?authuser=0)
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Meanwhile, one of our ways of measuring success tells us that it has been another successful year around here (I'm not in it and neither is anyone I climb with!):
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8516/29400054002_cda87d645b_c.jpg)
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sweet
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Like Father
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eycfCptNIciri0rwceg8ZHRLPWVXJwb9JjZ6X6MZyUWxvrKUAA8X7AkgouomkyGQATLIPOmsa5cov85pijIzeJWF6Gnv8WgfHpSSKsy_BdIdEFELMt3HGBM_-XNOarSR72Jl5egkbTolgZ06ERyEed=w479-h625-no?authuser=0)
Like Daughter :wink:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3d4X7L3vHIZpHHJ2Oc6HORmqdrIZiY4BjUwIEnZlZ-ITNt517DBr12Xmb1GaGbbEvV_bSRlhuog_bfIYvSzlAqFeLBuMKwkoXClCi60rhNhW9aSyVVOeIMonMRa-BIfqx8h9Rj-tS8Isu_QiV_RpxJV=w532-h625-no?authuser=0)
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5.9
I decided to give up on Granite.
If I try anything harder than 5.9 clink ridicules me for being a sport climber.
Good luck giving up on granite with all the plutonics around your new digs - although there should be plenty of crud too :thumbup:
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Like Father
(http://i1057.photobucket.com/albums/t395/JCwKCredux/IMG_6306%20Brad%20on%20Leaping%20Dwarves_zpserpsztyr.jpg) (http://s1057.photobucket.com/user/JCwKCredux/media/IMG_6306%20Brad%20on%20Leaping%20Dwarves_zpserpsztyr.jpg.html)
Like Daughters :wink:
(http://i1057.photobucket.com/albums/t395/JCwKCredux/IMG_6330%20Ts%201st%20gear%20lead%202016%20A.D._zpshtrzmc9y.jpg) (http://s1057.photobucket.com/user/JCwKCredux/media/IMG_6330%20Ts%201st%20gear%20lead%202016%20A.D._zpshtrzmc9y.jpg.html)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8005/28926219434_1d43ce1d01_c.jpg)
There, I fixed it for you ;) ;D
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(And thanks for the original post - Vicki in particular loved it.)
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nice fix.
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The daughters seem to have better technique. Katie in particular is doing quite well at tucking her foot up under her butt. Brad needs to really work on sucking the hip in. : )
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Oh, I am going climbing on some local choss on sunday. Notice how I mention choss to keep it on topic.
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Notice how I mention choss to keep it on topic.
There is a wide range of choss quality.
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choss quality.
Isn't that an oxymaroon?
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No!
Edit: All choss is quality. There are just various degrees of excellent choss.
J.C. - Did someone hack your account?
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All choss is quality. There are just various degrees of excellent choss.
Here, in this statement, one can observe that the delusional thought process has become predominate in the subject.
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delusional dominance. Should that be in the route name thread.
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delusional dominance. Should that be in the route name thread.
Definitely.
I posted some gem quality choss for you on Quest for Mud :biggrin:
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saw that. looks good. My drill is getting rusty
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My drill is getting rusty
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Is that for my drill or for my forehead?
; )
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What do Kentuckians know that we up here in the mountains don't? Friends of ours who were driving through that fine midwestern state sent us this photo:
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5565/29367186804_3fbed8e214_c.jpg)
A really, really early warning of an upcoming exit? Advice about moving to the west coast? A time portal from Kentucky to California? What gives, those of you in the know?
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I think KY deserves a new thread.
There was a hwy 395 in Shelbyville. I was truly on the east side.
There were signs to vote for you know who in front yards out in the country.
I think I gained 6 pounds in 4 days while we were there.
I forgot how relatively smart Califorons are.
I learned The Walking Dead is written by a couple guys in Cynthiana - near Paris, KY
As far as the Sonora mystery, you could always just ask Noal. He seems to know everything. :ciappa: :devildevil: :puke:
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I think there is a mispelling on that sign. They put a r where a m should be. How's that for knowledge?
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Funny how there is a hwy 49 along the way.
Kentucky Route 84 is a 66 mile long state highway in KY that connects KY Route 401 southwest of Hudson to KY Route 49 and KY Route 52 in Lebanon via Eastview, Sonora, Hodgenville, and Raywick.
Sonora is in Hardin County. Population is about 500.
The city is less than 1 square mile in area. Elevation 725 feet.
Brad would fit right in, in his Daisy Dukes :devildevil: :lol:
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I think there is a mispelling on that sign. They put a r where a m should be. How's that for knowledge?
Sorry brocephus,
There is no Sonoma, KY. They do have vineyards in Lexington and a few other spots. The limestone there makes good soil for grapes. Most of the vineyards we drove past looked pretty puny. They are much better at making bourbon. They also grow tasty tobacco and mine high quality coal. They could make a fortune on hemp. There were huge farms there growing it back in the old days.
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He lives in Sonoma right? I would take The 101 to get there.
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He lives in Sonoma right? I would take The 101 to get there.
I'll take The 1 and we can synchronize to see who gets there first! :lol: :puke:
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Here are a few pics from last weekend.
Getting warmed up on a previously established route.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1806/43191533982_e7da771208_c.jpg)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1788/43240673061_1e4258bd77_c.jpg)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1821/43191533832_8fd7498023_c.jpg)
FA of Holey Moley - giggly fun :ihih:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1802/42336405155_304a6dd045_c.jpg)
All of Holey Moley
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/841/42336405045_bc02909dff_c.jpg)
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^^^
So glad you two could join us.
Holey Moley is sure foreshortened in the full-length shot - in real life it's all of 60 feet high.
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Cool looking rock :)
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Looks a bit short....Squiddo could use his 30m gym rope.
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Kick-ass day with J.C. and Joel Primrose. Finished two new routes:
- The Mary Davis Route 5.9 **
- Doctor Pat Corner 5.8 ***
Both are 140 feet long on superb granite. All the photos were taken with John's camera, so he'll have to post them.
John was on fire leading the crux of The Mary Davis Route.
We also got three bolts in the slab FA of my (recent) dreams. So far it's well protected 5.10a. It'll take another dozen bolts or so (it's 160 feet high).
Damn the Sierra is beautiful!
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Kick-ass day with J.C. and Joel Primrose. Finished two new routes:
- The Mary Davis Route 5.9 **
- Doctor Pat Corner 5.8 ***
John was on fire leading the crux of The Mary Davis Route.
Damn the Sierra is beautiful!
I'm ready to come back and enjoy some more of the Sierra. Not sure if JC told you or not, but my last day of work is August 3. That gives me lots of time to climb on Granite. :D
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I'm ready to come back and enjoy some more of the Sierra. Not sure if JC told you or not, but my last day of work is August 3. That gives me lots of time to climb on Granite. Cheesy
That is the summer's BIG news, congratulations Tuff Chik!
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Please note that if Tuff Chik climbs granite too her Pinns membership will be revoked. All FA fun escheats back to Mungie.
With all this granite talk Mud may need to change the dns to point to a new domain name.
Granitencrud.com
Post “DIE” coming in 3...2...1..
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DIE
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lol
;D
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Kick-ass day with J.C. and Joel Primrose. Finished two new routes:
- The Mary Davis Route 5.9 **
- Doctor Pat Corner 5.8 ***
Both are 140 feet long on superb granite. All the photos were taken with John's camera, so he'll have to post them
Brad leading Dr. Pat Corner - coming up to the breaking wave - look out! :thumbup: :yesnod: :biggrin:
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/915/29497109048_4fdfa02235_z.jpg)
Joel leads pitch 1 of The Mary Davis Route. It splits off up and left into that short crack
You can also see the top portion of the stellar Dr. Pat Corner, cutoff in the pic of Brad because my hand shading the camera had to be cropped out
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1808/41558305510_169721cb19_b.jpg)
JC high-clipping the crux bolt on pitch 2 of The Mary Davis Route - cue the Randy Newman song Short People :lol:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1783/29497108628_5c8b215c82_b.jpg)
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Nice
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The wave looks sweet! And high-clipping??!?! What are us shorties to do?!?
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The wave looks sweet! And high-clipping??!?! What are us shorties to do?!?
To put it bluntly, you're screwed (on this one route).
Keep in mind that the crux move, on a fairly blank face, is a very long and balancy reach to a good edge. Anyone who can't clip the lead bolt would also have no hope of reaching the edge (that's why I went ahead and put the bolt high).
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The wave looks sweet! And high-clipping??!?! What are us shorties to do?!?
A shoulder stand on briham while humming the tune :lol:
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Can you access the top of the wall? Place a few bolts on the way down?
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Can you access the top of the wall? Place a few bolts on the way down?
I can't believe I am saying this but...
Yer missing the point - deadpoint that is :yesnod: :thumbup: :out: :prrr:
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Please note that if Tuff Chik climbs granite too her Pinns membership will be revoked. All FA fun escheats back to Mungie.
With all this granite talk Mud may need to change the dns to point to a new domain name.
Granitencrud.com
Post “DIE” coming in 3...2...1..
My membership may have to be revoked - I'm going to drive up after work tomorrow and enjoy another weekend on the G word. This Tuffchix still loves Pinnacles, but I don't like climbing in 100 degree weather. I'll give Pinnacles plenty of love later in the year.
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That corner looks awesome
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And high-clipping??!?! What are us shorties to do?!?
Get creative - like we always do! :)
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Get creative - like we always do! :)
...while silently swearing under our breath ;)
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A shoulder stand on briham while humming the tune :lol:
He has yet to let me do this, let alone offer! How RUDE!
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Today's efforts (and we thought we'd get rained out!):
- Raised By Wolves 5.7 **
FA Party/Date: John Cook, Brad Young July 13, 2018.
- Mother Knows Best 5.10b **
FA Party/Date: Brad Young, John Cook, July 13, 2018
And other stuff is started, waiting for the weekend....
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Today's efforts (and we thought we'd get rained out!):
- Raised By Wolves 5.7 **
FA Party/Date: John Cook, Brad Young July 13, 2018.
- Mother Knows Best 5.10b **
FA Party/Date: Brad Young, John Cook, July 13, 2018
And other stuff is started, waiting for the weekend....
Formula and Breast Fed Babies for the next 2 route names to keep the theme going?
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Formula and Breast Fed Babies for the next 2 route names to keep the theme going?
Only if you get your lily white butt up here and help with the FAs....
Right now, the 150 foot route we've started right up the middle of The Mother Slab (right of the corner seen in J.C.'s first two photos - that slab) is gonna get the name "Mom." And a nice face-to-crack right of that will get the name "Kay Louise."
Lots and lots more to do, lots more "mom-themed" names to use.
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Couple of shots from Raised By Wolves
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/917/42490583465_b925953c32_z.jpg)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1809/29524216858_903b5bec17_z.jpg)
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Damn guys, that looks cool!
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Damn guys, that looks cool!
You would definitely dig it :yesnod: :biggrin:
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Damn guys, that looks cool!
clink - I have two small weirdly-shaped red patches (slight sunburn) on my giant forehead where the sun was shining through the vents in my helmet while I was looking up into the sun most of the day.
You are missing some good heckling opportunities :yesnod: :biggrin: :lol:
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Fitting
>:D
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clink - I have two small weirdly-shaped red patches (slight sunburn) on my giant forehead where the sun was shining through the vents in my helmet while I was looking up into the sun most of the day.
You are missing some good heckling opportunities Yes Nod Big Grin Laugh Out Loud
Not sunburn, your horns are starting to grow. I hope they are centered.
We are camping this coming Saturday(21st) to Wednesday at Headquarters campground, Kernville CA. My Dad and Johnny's friend Daniel are joining us for 3 days. Fishing,
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what is thing you call 'fishing'? ;)
Have fun! Kernville Rock is right there on the road. Beauty fun 5.5 right up the middle. Just say.
wrt to granite on 108. Seemed pretty smokey down low with the Ferguson fire blowing smoke from Yosemite, and the afternoon thundercould buildup visible from Sonora.
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Have fun! Kernville Rock is right there on the road. Beauty fun 5.5 right up the middle. Just say.
The last night of the trip(Sat the 28th) we are staying a few blocks from Stoney Point. Then up at 4 to get to our first Ocean Fishing 3/4 day.
3/4 Day SPECIALS
Wednesdays for $55 ( 8AM Departure)
Sundays $65 for an adult and a child fishes free! (6am Departure Sunday ONLY)
Will be bringing the 3 R's, rods, rifle, and rope.
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wrt to granite on 108. Seemed pretty smokey down low with the Ferguson fire blowing smoke from Yosemite, and the afternoon thundercould buildup visible from Sonora.
Up Highway 108 today, warm and clear changed to hot and smokey by 1:00.
But by then we'd already finished a first ascent on the right side of The Mother Slab (this one named after my mom):
Kay Louise 5.6 ***
FA: Brad Young, John Cook, Kathy Cook, July 15, 2018.
Two pitches (90 and 80 feet). A significant rightward traverse to a nice ledge at 90 feet up made us decide to set up a belay there (not to mention the fact that that first pitch anchor will, soon, be the top anchor to two excellent-looking 5.10 or 5.11 pitches directly below!).
Until I get a new camera or get the old one repaired, we'll have to rely on J.C. and K.C. for photos.
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Here is Brad on the FA of Kay Louise at the first gear placing stance (there are 2 bolts below).
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/913/42552176945_8a548c776a_c.jpg)
Brad at the ledge where the first anchor was installed. Kat took this from the mid anchor on the Mary Davis slab
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1790/42552176585_4559baa2d4_c.jpg)
Yesterday we went back and I got to lead this same pitch to the anchor.
Here I am at the top of the crack placing a few more pieces before heading into the traverse.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1803/29585993848_4b802aa39d_c.jpg)
Eyeballing the traverse to the anchor
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/845/41648816900_e7f251f862_c.jpg)
Kat followed me
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/836/29585992358_e3e1b74d20_c.jpg)
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Nice looking rock
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Nice looking rock
Major portions of The Mother Slab are so clean you could eat off it.
Nothing like fresh exfoliation surfaces (relatively speaking) :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod: :lol:
Here is a pic from the top to show the smoke that drifted in yesterday.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/925/43428496932_3807d88147_c.jpg)
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Sweetness!
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Quiet around this site. Here are some of our latest efforts on granite.
Brian leading Doctor Pat Corner 5.8 *** (150 feet, almost 5.9 and almost "R"). My daughter Katie belaying:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/925/43602583211_6a0f5e7e5c_b.jpg)
Jennifer leading the first moves of Mom 5.10a *** (sixteen bolts in 160 feet of pure, clean granite, right up the middle of The Mother Slab):
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/862/43602580041_62bf9ec448_b.jpg)
Brian leading Kay Louise:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/861/43602587111_c265338034_b.jpg)
Leading Geez Louise 5.9 ** (an 80 foot thin crack leading to the Kay Louise first pitch anchor):
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/842/43602590721_4e1cd9d9bd_b.jpg)
Jennifer partway up Mom:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/936/28715093197_ef5243fe00_b.jpg)
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Fun stuff
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Why are they leading on twin ropes (to set up a TR?) and do you have to be a Geez to lead the 5.9?
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Why are they leading on twin ropes (to set up a TR?) and do you have to be a Geez to lead the 5.9?
Jennifer likes her twin ropes and brings them now and then (no-one else seems to like them much, but we humor her).
The 5.9 requires better than average thin crack protection skills. There's a bit of a crux low protected by a long Lost Arrow piton that I sunk to the hilt. Up high, where the real crux is, are these weird, weird potato chip flakes that I thought would pull off easily. Yeah, not really. They've got an uncanny solidness to them. But we all agreed that no sane person would ever place gear behind them! So two bolts protect the last 15 feet of climbing.
And, to finally answer your question, I am a Geez and so I don't know if someone who isn't could lead it :P
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Notice that neither Brian not I are using double ropes?
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Notice that neither Brian not I are using double ropes?
Solidifying your place in society
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Notice that neither Brian not I are using double ropes?
Looks like briham is doublin' up on Kay Louise. Or is that doublin' down? :biggrin: :thumbup: :yesnod: :lol:
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True. He used the doubles on Kay Louise so he could set up a TR on Doctor Pat Corner for the others once on top.
Such a nice area. But no more climbing for me now for a full two weeks....
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True. He used the doubles on Kay Louise so he could set up a TR on Doctor Pat Corner for the others once on top.
Such a nice area. But no more climbing for me now for a full two weeks....
ruh roh, is your body giving you the finger? Pun intended is it the nagging injury?
You can join me MTB'ing now......Brian and F4 is in too. I keep hearing how good it is on SNP, dropping in on Crabtree too...
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ruh roh, is your body giving you the finger? Pun intended is it the nagging injury?
You can join me MTB'ing now......Brian and F4 is in too. I keep hearing how good it is on SNP, dropping in on Crabtree too...
No finger issue. Leaving tomorrow for PCT, session two.
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No finger issue. Leaving tomorrow for PCT, session two.
Have fun.
Remember there is no place like California, no place like California.
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Daniel and Johnny did some scrambling, and rappelling yesterday on GRANITE. Still used 5 pieces of gear for the anchor. :)
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Mtn biking is way safer than climbing.
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You can join me MTB'ing now......Brian and F4 is in too. I keep hearing how good it is on SNP, dropping in on Crabtree too...
I keep hearing that too. Might have to check this out in the fall when the trails get a little water.
The mother slab is delivering. Such good rock and climbing.
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Who slings features on granite? We managed to do 4 new routes and only placed one lead bolt. Had a lot of fun doing it too :yesnod: :biggrin: :thumbup: :ihih:
Kind of a butt shot butt it was the best one :ciappa:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1956/29918314097_5632e09b4e_z.jpg)
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Sweet
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We managed to do 4 new routes and only placed one lead bolt.
Meanderthals. ;D
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Meanderthals. ;D
You would really think that if you do our new choss route in the Alabama Hills.
https://www.mountainproject.com/route/115393104/wrist-rocket
now scroll down to the 4th comment here
https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106284947/slingshot-arete
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How tall is that route?
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While J.C. and K.C. and I were climbing on the east side of the Sierra, I used my "50 meter" rope. Its length is placed in quotes because the rope started life as a 60 meter, bi-color cord, but I cut off about 30 feet several months ago due to a core shot.
When we started this trip, this fairly used rope was 50 meters long, and not bi-color. Its center point was marked in bright red (done using a Sharpie marker).
And damn if the same rope didn't get another core shot on this trip! We don't know how, but clearly that part of the rope wasn't usable; white was visible under a tattered inch-long part of the sheath. "Oh well," I assumed. Maybe if I cut it it would make a nice "short rope" to use on "short crag" days.
I just cut it down again. Now I've got a 145 foot rope. Usable, just like J.C. uses his half-length ropes to cut down on weight on some days. And the center point? How convenient. The rope's center point is, once again, where the bi colors meet ;D
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Invalid without pics. :)
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what are the odds?
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Sounds like that rope needs to be retired....
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I'm surprised that Brad didn't ask the seamstress he has on retainer to patch the core shot.
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It's been a long time since I did three FAs in one day to a cumulative total of zero stars (worth doing, 50 foot high wide cracks, but not good enough for stars).
- Hypotenuse 5.6: Wide crack/edge of flake, squeeze/thrutch;
- Pythagorus 5.8: Fist crack to offwidth;
- The Gusher 5.6: Chimney (unclimbable in the spring and still wet well into summer).
Shirts off part of the day at 8,000 feet. Crisp and beautiful.
I wish it would rain and snow soon though. I am starting to get the Pinnacles itch....
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I am starting to get the Pinnacles itch....
I recommend BENADRYL® and Tecnu®.
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I recommend BENADRYL® and Tecnu®.
Nah. Lots more fun to just scratch it. Pinnacels here I come....
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Sounds like my kind of climbing