MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: JC w KC redux on November 02, 2015, 09:41:10 AM
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I think this deserves a separate thread.
Alacia and Kat worked hard again yesterday to advance their route.
Kat ran it out from the second bolt to the bottom of the upper chute and placed a third bolt.
Alacia went up to check it out and the decision was made to place a bolt partway through Kat's runout.
This sounds like a familiar story. Bolt 3 is now bolt 4 :)
clink was busy elsewhere or he may have recognized the body language and deployed the tranquilizer gun
Alacia drills bolt 2 on the last day of the PCAD weekend – 10-15-15
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4400/37111560372_0e6e1631cf_o.jpg)
KC at her runout stance for bolt 3 – now bolt 4 – 11-1-15
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4433/37111560012_ef6d0fe97a_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YxqrQY)
Bolt 2 shown for scale
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4370/36446362074_296b8af3b4_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XwD8F1)
Alacia with KC
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4369/37111559752_345999ed7d_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YxqrLu)
my hero :)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4441/37111559452_61977b092d_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YxqrFj)
After some discussion - the gals made a decision to place a bolt partway through Kat's runout - Alacia took on the job.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4406/37093407836_8914e1d0f6_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YvPpQq)
Crux led up to Kat's high point to check it out and work up a little higher
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4369/37093409156_e96a3a9486_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YvPqeb)
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Fun was had by all yesterday. A shout out to Crux Luv for taking pictures. Hoping to finish the route in the next week or two. Drilling bolts is hard work ;D
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cool.
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Excellent!
I can see why they decided to add a bolt partway through the runout - looks easy, but there would definitely be ground-fall potential.
As I understand it, this is an all, all female FA (no guys can even belay)?
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Excellent!
I can see why they decided to add a bolt partway through the runout - looks easy, but there would definitely be ground-fall potential.
As I understand it, this is an all, all female FA (no guys can even belay)?
The climbing was a little easier, but after I got up there and started drilling the bolt I realized if I had taken a fall while I was squeezing myself inside the crack it would not be pretty. Can we say exposure ...
Your understanding is correct - no guys can even belay.
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No boys allowed. ;)
This was the only time I've ever worried about Kathy's safety - so freaking run out. Then, while drilling, her foot slipped off a bit of fluff (as Alacia so affectionately calls it).
Made my heart stop. :o
Whew.
No harm, no foul and bolt 3 (now 4) done diggity done! Amazing job by them both.
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nice!
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Would it be too much to ask that guys be allowed subsequent ascents? ;D
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Would it be too much to ask that guys be allowed subsequent ascents? ;D
I guess we can let guys climb the route after we are done - but you have to promise to only say nice things about it. ::)
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Kat and Tricia MADE HERSTORY today when Kat topped out the route :)
Tuff Chix 5.7
No one else can ever accomplish this feat :)
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Kat and Tricia MADE HISTORY today when Kat topped out the route :)
Tuff Chix 5.7
No one else can ever accomplish this feat :)
Thanks guys for the support yesterday. Really fun day!
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Kat and Tricia MADE HISTORY today when Kat topped out the route :)
Tuff Chix 5.7
No one else can ever accomplish this feat :)
Alacia and Crux too. That photo of Alacia drilling her first bolt is going in any second edition guidebook for sure. And Crux is the only one of you four who shed blood for the route!
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We're still waiting for the news crew to get here.
Not sure why the paparazzi weren't outside when we woke up.
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We're still waiting for the news crew to get here.
Not sure why the paparazzi wasn't outside when we woke up.
Bastards were here instead! Woke us up at 6:00 this a.m.
I showed them our extra bedroom and told them: "K.C. has slept there."
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This is going to be an interesting season. Ladies putting up routes and also trading for equal sections with the guys on non-precleaned routes, placing bolts from stances that would make a gym climbers(male born) balls shrivel. I was complementing Nelkins and JC on a newer 5.9 and was informed that the Kid (Barbella's) placed two of the bolts.
Tuff Chix at 5.7 will put a look of concern on the brow of the leader, I mean what guy would want to bust an ankle/leg screwing up on a girl's route :)
Tricia survived another day with/of the rest of us ::) She also Womaned up with a hammer.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4431/37141861531_21a41d5f93_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YA6KqX)
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Bastards were here instead! Woke us up a 6:00 this a.m.
I showed them our extra bedroom and told them: "K.C. has slept there."
Good one.
Sorry about the interruption - I know how much you need your beauty sleep :)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4398/37093691406_02b02e7e43_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YvQS8y)
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Is that a move from status and climbing in the new shoes for the first time, or from another day? The background is throwing me off.
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Is that a move from status and climbing in the new shoes for the first time, or from another day? The background is throwing me off.
I can still feel my feet in that shot - that's topping out Tuff Chix with numb feet from shoes that hadn't ever been worn before.
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I wouldn’t normally post so many pictures but this is something that can never happen again.
The first ascenders on this route now have a unique distinction - There is History and then there is Herstory .
The route was done onsight and all bolts were drilled from stance. It is unique because it is the first climb established by women only - no men were allowed to participate in any way (belaying, climbing or drilling).
Congratulations Kat, Alacia, Tricia and Lisa :) :) :) :)
Kat and Tricia approach the crag (Deep Groove Wall). Tuff Chix is the fully shaded last groove on the left along the skyline (to the right of the obvious big tree).
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4358/37111946022_29cb3333f7_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YxsqAj)
Tuff Chix 5.7
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4420/37284546225_1bd0056a1e_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YNH3BT)
Kat back in the saddle
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4429/36886765310_6c2ddcf5e3_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Ycyjdf)
Kat moving up to the stance for bolt 5
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4335/37111947652_85be10f023_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Yxsr5q)
Kay working on bolt 5 (this would become the last protection on the route)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4406/37093691026_5929f06e24_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YvQS21)
Kat drilled the bolt hole and placed the bolt (it took about an hour) - then started making the moves above it.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4442/37141860851_941079426e_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YA6Kee)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4332/37111947302_31347bb091_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YxsqYo)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4426/36446702574_82468387fc_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XwESTG)
I thought Kat might stop here and place one more bolt but she was so close to the top she decided to just go for it :yikes:
The decision to go for it should provide a bit of a thrill for future leaders.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4408/37093690516_eb53b99643_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YvQRSd)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4350/36446702274_5258f4b22d_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XwESNw)
Topping out for the woohoo! moment :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod: :ihih:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4414/36886762800_4840b64d1d_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YcyisY)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4420/37111945782_ba0bceaeb5_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Yxsqwb)
Tricia follows and joins Kat, Alacia and Lisa in the annals of Pinnacles Herstory :thumbup: :thumbup:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4430/37141860421_dd90dd9d6d_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YA6K6P)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4364/36446701924_8cbfeed8d5_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XwESGu)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4373/37111945452_3265e1ec28_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Yxsqqu)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4332/37111946382_599f008d5d_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YxsqGw)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4379/37141859881_c3ab74f1cd_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YA6JWv)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4367/37284546605_d4590b2678_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YNH3Jr)
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:)
nice!!
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Alacia and Crux too. That photo of Alacia drilling her first bolt is going in any second edition guidebook for sure. And Crux is the only one of you four who shed blood for the route!
I also shed some blood yesterday - just a little on my left knee.
Will have to go back out with them so they can lead the route.
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Way to go everyone! Also I love that picture of Kat and Tricia :)
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And Crux is the only one of you four who shed blood for the route!
And smart enough to wield a brush rather than a hammer. ;)
Very appropriate for a Young to be on this list of ladies. Nice job Tricia!
So sorry to have missed the finishing touches yesterday. Great pics-
Looking forward to getting back out there soon to lead the entirety of that bad boy...er...bad girl...um...Tuff Chix!!
8)
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Awesome! Lovin' the double victory fist shot.
Coincidentally just the other day I noticed that formation in a pic in the guide and was wondering if any routes had been done on it. Now I have my answer. 8)
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Awesome! Lovin' the double victory fist shot.
Coincidentally just the other day I noticed that formation in a pic in the guide and was wondering if any routes had been done on it. Now I have my answer. 8)
I'm guessing you were looking at the pic on page 150.
Between the existing routes, the finished new routes and the in-process routes, we should have quite a selection in this area as the "season" progresses.
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I'm guessing you were looking at the pic on page 150.
Between the existing routes, the finished new routes and the in-process routes, we should have quite a selection in this area as the "season" progresses.
Yep. It looks pretty cool on Google Maps, too.
Based off these pics and your teaser I'm even more interested. Might have to cruise out that way with the little guy later this week and do some snooping. ;D
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Very appropriate for a Young to be on this list of ladies. Nice job Tricia!
Especially cool that it's the young Young. (Sorry, just had to throw that in.)
And one more note about what J.C. said. There are not only new routes that are worth doing in that area; thanks mostly (or even exclusively) to he and Nelkins, all or almost all of the old/existing routes in that area have been re-bolted too (making them much more reasonable prospects).
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Yes, it is a beautiful area. Not too much of a hike, but enough to be on your own.
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I added a few more pics to the first part of the thread :)
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I added a few more pics to the first part of the thread :)
I finally figured out that clicking (http://www.mudncrud.com/forums/Themes/default/images/english/new.gif) will bring me straight to the bottom of the page and now I have to scroll to the top anyways? Yer killin' me!
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Here you can see the formation Tuff Chix and the other new routes. Notice the streaks in the shadows. Tuff Chix is the shadowed streak on the left.
(http://www.mudncrud.com/MudGallery/_data/i/upload/2015/12/21/20151221201022-1c42c0bc-me.jpg)
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Here you can see the formation Tuff Chix and the other new routes. Notice the streaks in the shadows. Tuff Chix is the shadowed streak on the left.
(http://www.mudncrud.com/MudGallery/_data/i/upload/2015/12/21/20151221201022-1c42c0bc-me.jpg)
Thanks for the pic Mud - that has some nice shadows and light.
Just for some clarification - the main formation was named Byzantium a few years ago - by Uncle Stinky.
He put a route on the far right end (Perne in a Gyre) and the backside on the left (No Country for Old Men).
Noal and I named the wall Tuff Chix is on Deep Groove Wall (Noal's brainchild).
I can also see The Knee, Nit-Wit Knob and the soon to be finished route on Dunce Cap :)
This is going to be quite the destination once all the routes are finished :)
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Deep Groove Wall sounds good. ;)
I also see Frog, Hand, Thumb, Snail, and that want to be formation below the Frog. :)
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I have not been on this forum much or read this post carefully. Nice to see some climbs being put up there, will make the hike in much more worthwhile. Looked at Deep Groove Wall years ago when we put up No country for Old men. Then again a couple of years back when I put up Perne in a Gyre on a rope solo, climbing and camping by myself. For some reason putting in those bolts messed up my wrists for almost a year, makes me afraid to bolt again. Only climbed once at Pinns last year. Looked at those routes but they sure looked dirty then. Thanks for everyone cleaning and bolting them! In fact I free soloed up and down Tuff Chix, to about where the fourth bolt is, and part of No room for Squares checking out the different routes. Which way did you hike in, I have dropped in from just past the Anvil and have hike up and cut over from lake and creek. Not sure which is best. Cheers
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I have not been on this forum much or read this post carefully. Which way did you hike in.
Hey Uncle Stinky - better late than never :)
The routes have turned out really nice so far and we are still working on a few more out there.
We approach either by going up the drainage past the Watchmen - then past Maniacs and the Knee or by going out toward Knuckle Ridge past the Hand cutoff and cutting right up the ridge across from Chimney Sweep and up around the back. The latter way seems a little longer but is enjoyable. I still haven't climbed No Country but have done Perne.
The route we just finished on Dunce Cap is really nice too (Class Clown).