MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: mynameismud on November 23, 2015, 09:49:40 AM
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As many of you know I have been working on a new route in a new area. Nelkins and I got in an additional bolt this Sunday on the project ( 7 Total ), and got it cleaned up a bit. The issue is climbing off of the last bolt is hard 10 or easy 11. Having been out of the game a bit for a while I do not seem to have the finger strength to pull over the bulge and up onto the ramp above ( there are some good crimps ). Any takers? Pretty good rock and kind of a cool location. I might be able to aid it if I bring aiders and daisy.
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Sounds like you need a rope gun that can also drill.
I've heard rumors that Aaron and the Kid will chase dangling carrots...
What's the route name? Slim Pickens? :)
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No name as of yet. That could work.
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I'm interested but won't be around again until after December 18 or so.
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I forgot to mention earlier, I'm good with an etrier rest step and drilling high in the hero loop!! ;)
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You could just rappel from the top to place the last bolt.
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Consider me a movable 197 lb anchor.
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I think The Kid, Aaron or Gavin need to step up.
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Roger would be another good candidate - he's been talking about how he'd really, really like to experience a Pinns FA (and he's stronger than crap).
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Let him know there is a route in waiting. I am confident he would pull through.
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Let him know there is a route in waiting. I am confident he would pull through.
I did and he certainly would pull through.
I don't think he'll find time though. He's loved Pinns the times he's been there. But geography seems to be a big obstacle for him - Pinns is too far away (this is one of his very few faults).
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Mr Mud, I am in - I'd be happy to help. Send me an email or PM and we can make a plan. I'm usually off work on Sunday to Tuesday.
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I did and he certainly would pull through.
I don't think he'll find time though. He's loved Pinns the times he's been there. But geography seems to be a big obstacle for him - Pinns is too far away (this is one of his very few faults).
That is unfortunate, considering Pinnacles wouldn't even exist were it not for faults!
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That is unfortunate, considering Pinnacles wouldn't even exist were it not for faults!
Scientist humor and other myths....
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Scientist humor and other myths....
lolz
I think The Kid, Aaron or Gavin need to step up.
I think my reputation is getting a head of me. I haven't actually lead anything that hard in the pinnacles (yet). And careful with Roger, he might actually crush so hard there will be no more rock left.
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^^^^The move is very well protected. I am sure you could figure it out.
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Mr Mud, I am in - I'd be happy to help. Send me an email or PM and we can make a plan. I'm usually off work on Sunday to Tuesday.
Sweet. Will PM. Tentatively lets plan for Sunday. the Kid is welcome to join. Nelkins are you open on Sunday since you helped last Sunday?
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Mud, I sent an email on the subject to your mudncrud email address. Did you get it? Roger and I might be able to join you, but not until December 12 or 13.
Sounds like you'll want to get it done as soon as you can though.
We'll have to look for an alternative route for Roger to ropegun?
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Definitely have a couple of others that will need a ropegun. Sent an email. The finger strength is taking a bit to get back.
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I am free Fri-Sun.
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Thanks for the invite! I'm in Red Rocks with my pops until Sunday. I'm down, if you're going out the following weekend.
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Enjoy RR, say hi and we will be out both weekends.
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Fresh choss you say???
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Kyle, if you're still around a computer, give us a quick rundown on how the extended road trip has gone. You guys are in Bishop now?
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Fresh choss. Fresh steep choss in places. Trying to start out on the not so steep to get some finger strength back for the good stuff.
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I will be terrorizing Discovery Wall tomorrow. Which potentially leaves Sunday available, if you're desperate. Also a heads up to anyone interested, I will be starting a small shopping center in Soledad this week which will keep me busy into February some time. Plenty of opportunities to break away in the afternoon for a quick hit.
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Just read this today.
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Just read this today.
post mortem :)
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Putting a summary here just to have it in the original thread.
Went up Sunday with Gavin and Noal. Thankfully it was not quite as cold as Friday. Gavin tied in and lead up to the crux then shook out. He lead up past the high bolt into the crux and into the realm of the moss and mud. It looked like he was going to get it first try when he popped off. Two or three tries later he pulled onto the stance that is about 5 or 6 feet above the crux bolt. After a bit of digging he got in two good hooks and placed the new high bolt. After that he moved up higher to a good ledge that is about 95 feet off the ground and 10 or so above his previous bolt. He put in one bolt then lowered off while cleaning up a bit. We then went and sat in the sun and ate a bit. After that I went up and followed to the high point and put in a second anchor bolt. While I rapped and cleaned Gavin and Noal started what will be the fourth route in this area. Once I was down Gavin lead through to the anchors. Then Noal followed with a couple of hangs at the crux. I then took my turn and got the route clean.
The route still needs a bit of brushing but is fairly clean. Difficulty is 10d or so, we probably need a couple more people to lead to get a good consensus. I think the route should get one or two stars since it has some fun moves and the rock quality is fairly good. Tentatively we are going with Cutting the Rug but that might change.
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Gavin did a great job! It's a fun route with superb rock that builds up nicely to the crux. I was really surprised how well the crux cleaned up and the fun sequence to get over the headwall/bulge.
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I agree with Mr Mud and Noal - it's a nice route on great rock, definitely worth a couple stars in my opinion. The first time I popped off the attempt at the crux was due to a handhold blowing out. The crux is still challenging but way cleaner now. It should get even better with more folks climbing it.
It was a fun and productive day. I look forward to more work out there!