MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: JC w KC redux on November 29, 2015, 09:29:15 AM
-
We had a lot of fun this weekend working on new routes and meeting a variety of folks in the parking area. Friday was cold and damp. The theme of the day was cold hands and feet working up through a peat bog plastered on the cliff. clink toughed it out at the end to get in one last bolt - the next person up will be well protected into some interesting looking terrain.
Yesterday we had a few hours of sun. KC and I started a low angle right facing flake to slab (Katwalk) – while Mud and nelkins chased an enticing arête to its finale (Humping Lizards).
They are out again today - back in the shade – makes me shiver just thinkin’ about it.
Are hard moves easier to do when you can’t feel your fingers? I guess Gavin will find out :)
Noal drills bolt 3 (OCD Overdrive 5.8**)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eL4JvLXcY_dvdnDf2iCBa8bHdTN5htzboiv3H9fduJgBTJpbhtXSZfnqOOTyt1rF7W8v7JMpQMbKiUfIaVZ9M0QFQE8kM9AWHfH-TpWEab14TMo7rV1cDEoV4boPwLCkrGHAqL8wTKIjN5LzYwvQyI=w581-h625-no?authuser=0)
JC drills bolt 4 OCD
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50268597576_8b0d8ea509_z.jpg)
Mr Mud drills bolt 5 OCD
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dwXYpVA8io916LfUJnvO3kn4LE-6E5c54zt2kUrssVba6GVk9eKF0nDWuE_TwvZT9Msyx-KVoeEYYYcQFikDI8hw5hG7GgQpktQNZogb3CivdY_4ehGBijUaYGioUBPOQFlNyBcB2ox9LlTHJCt3Bx=w578-h625-no?authuser=0)
clink drills bolt 6 OCD to end the day
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50268597531_e442941d48_z.jpg)
-
What kind of progress was made today at the Fortress of Mud?
Did Gavin latch on and go or what?
The suspense is killing me :)
-
The suspense is killing me Smiley
Did they slave through the night?
-
Gavin pulled the crux and got a bolt in, he then went up to a good ledge and we put in a 2 bolt belay. The rope was right at the 1/2 way point on the 60 meter bi-color. It took Gavin about 3 or 4 tries with one short fall. Route seems to be about 10d or so. I went up and put in the second bolt and scrubbed the route. Gavin and Noal started another route, whoot. Once I got down Gavin lead the whole route clean then Noal and I followed.
Looks like he will be keeping this area open unless of course a bird decides to nest which has not happened in the past. So I will be moving on to closed areas for a bit. It did not seem quite as cold on Sunday.
-
Funny - I was typing right as Mr. Mud was, and he posted first!
To answer JC's question: yeah, the cold was enough to make the crux moves tricky with numb fingers... Well, that and a pile of featureless dirt / moss as I was scrambling for holds near the end of the crux sequence. (After Mr. Mud thoroughly cleaned the upper part of the route it is much better for hold options now, but still challenging.)
I would agree the line is 5.10d and at least 2 stars. The rock quality is amazingly good.
-
Did they slave through the night?
Hey, I saw the first bolt for your project in the area... I'd be game to help with that if you want assistance at some point. I also started a line 15 or so feet to the left of where yours will go... Should be some interesting hard stuff in that area when we get done with the routes!
-
Gavin pulled the crux and got a bolt in, he then went up to a good ledge and we put in a 2 bolt belay. The rope was right at the 1/2 way point on the 60 meter bi-color. Route seems to be about 10d or so.
Sweet! Except for the 10d part :(
Nice job!!
I noticed you didn't mention whether or not you and Noal were able to get it clean on the follow.
-
I got it clean on both times. First lap was just barely. I think Noal had a couple of hangs.
-
I got it clean on both times. First lap was just barely. I think Noal had a couple of hangs.
Nice!
What's the name? Have Gun Will Travel?
-
That is an appropriate name but I think we are tentatively thinking Cutting the Rug. If Gavin had not volunteered to be the ropegun we would have to have gone with A Month of Sundays.
-
The other one I thought of is Carpetbagger :)
-
I thought of another name but it is too inappropriate to post here but I can give you the acronym version.
R.M.F.S.C.
then when I got home I thought of three word addition which would be:
W.N.A.R.M.F.S.C
P.M. me your inappropriate guesses. I'll buy the winner a beer.
-
Gavin have at working on that bulge and pushing the route higher with or without me. It's going to be an outstanding route and in the 11's. Speaking of which, pm me your contact info.
-
Nice job finding and completing that line all.
-
how many bolts?
-
how many bolts?
Pretty sure it is 8 bolts to a two bolt belay.
-
yep, 8 then the belay.
Clink, thank you for going there with me and getting that stuff started.
Good Times.
-
8......is it a sport climb?
-
yep
-
moAR pics!
-
Sorry mungie - no pics of that one as I only did it on TR up to bolt 7 and Tuff Chik was way too cold.
If it hadn't been so dang cold I might have tried to get past there - or at least move up a little to check it out.
-
werd. I see a lot of puffy jackets in the pics as it is.
-
Meanwhile, I've been checking out real mud. It was 20 degrees when I started hiking to these. It took me an hour and a half to reach the base of Castleton (not climbing it, just stopping by on a recon while traveling to my brother's house). It about killed me too - obviously I am just over being ill:
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5631/22841288154_67e9d59f82_c.jpg)
And all after spending time with these blessings:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/685/22841390744_79f16866ae_c.jpg)
It was 9 degrees when we woke up here in Silt, Colorado - but at least I spent last night indoors. I camped three nights while driving out from LA; one night it was 15 degrees and another a balmy 18 (and I only had two dogs on what should have been three dog nights).
Vicki and Tricia report lots and lots of fun from Europe. Apparently Tricia is the only kid on their whole tour (expected) and everyone else in the group has adopted her fondly.
Going out today to tour some of the houses my brother has built in and around Aspen. Some are over 10,000 square feet (and sell for tens of millions).
-
Oh, and I've got this to add to Clink's collection of pithy quotes. It seemed appropriate here, since we do have our share of fanatics on this site. It's from Winston Churchill:
"A fanatic is one who can't change his mind and won't change the subject."
I am missing you all, and missing Pinns too.
-
More pics please!
-
Wow, people were a lot more productive over the holiday weekend than I was. Way to get after it in spite of the temps. Looks...fun? :P
Silt, Colorado
I imagine that speaks volumes to the local climbing.
-
Actually, they live 15 miles from the climbing at Rifle (which is way too cold right now).
-
Ah, scare tactic. Gotcha. Kinda like Iceland/Greenland.
-
"A fanatic is one who can't change his mind and won't change the subject."
Since we're talking Winston...
"You're right, Miss, I am drunk; but in the morning I will be sober, and you will still be ugly."
-
What a great visit to Colorado. But I'm headed west this morning; California (and, plus, plus, plus, Vicki and Tricia) here I come.
By way of Sedona, Arizona, and three days of climbing on real mud with Bill (mud so real that an older guidebook to the area is called "A Better Way to Die."
-
I'm standing on a corner in Winslow, Arizona.
-
What's on your mind?
-
I'm standing on a corner in Winslow, Arizona.
Is there a girl in a flatbed Ford?
-
Missing my girls (they just texted me shots from Prague).
I'm gonna drive the long way back to the interstate looking for that Ford.
-
Just climbed my first Sedona route. Three pitches. I did Queen Victoria.
-
;D
Nice
-
Profound and not profane in any way at all. Then again we haven't seen any pics.