MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: clink on January 19, 2016, 06:21:11 PM
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Lars, who is he? Has he done other routes at Pinns and elsewhere.
What is the style of ascent so far and protection on the line we had a stage view of last weekend? Does it have a name? Rating so far? BTW, that trail sailed through an area quite easily that I always supposed would be very difficult to access.
A large face with an obvious line up it and no other routes. NW Face of Goat Rock? My interest is peaked and I wasn't the only one. Is Lars still climbing? The third time they say...
Is it open to project, once the closures lift that is?
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Lars, who is he? Has he done other routes at Pinns and elsewhere.
What is the style of ascent so far and protection on the line we had a stage view of last weekend? Does it have a name? Rating so far? BTW, that trail sailed through an area quite easily that I always supposed would be very difficult to access.
A large face with an obvious line up it and no other routes. NW Face of Goat Rock? My interest is peaked and I wasn't the only one. Is Lars still climbing? The third time they say...
Is it open to project, once the closures lift that is?
He used to go by a slightly different first name and then reached back into his heritage to change it. See page 380 of the 2007 guidebook, as an example. He helped put up routes 841 through 843. You've probably met him.
The rest of this shouldn't be publicly posted should it? Aren't we supposed to be highly secretive about all prospective FAs? Lest someone STEAL them?
Oh well, ignoring that risk, here's everything I've got in my notes about that particular project:
"On the north face of Goat Rock, long relatively faint, grey waterstreak. Start just right of a block. Three bolts so far (and a broken-off drill bit where a fourth bolt was being drilled). By Lars Johnson (abandoned by him, “given” to Josh Mucci and/or Brad Young)."
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Holmgren and I nosed around through there, but Piedras Bonitas took our attention away.
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Oh well, ignoring that risk, here's everything I've got in my notes about that particular project:
Thanks Brad, what be your thoughts on it after seeing it again? Did Lars have a parting wish for style of ascent?
Holmgren and I nosed around through there, but Piedras Bonitas took our attention away.
Waldo, did you know there is a relatively clear way up that canyon in between Goat and Resurrection( not along the base of Resurrection)?
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Thanks Brad, what be your thoughts on it after seeing it again? Did Lars have a parting wish for style of ascent?
He didn't say anything about that one. I told you what he said about the other one, the one closer to Resurrection. He's around, and you could talk to him directly. Email Mucci, I'm sure he'd put you in touch with him.
I'm not too sure whether I'd like to go back to that exact spot.
Waldo, did you know there is a relatively clear way up that canyon in between Goat and Resurrection( not along the base of Resurrection)?
Of course he does. Like any real Pinnacles climber he's studied the maps in the 2007 guidebook (page 342 shows that passage quite well).
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Your Big Wall doctor called just now and he wants his CLAIMED back. ;)
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Of course he does. Like any real Pinnacles climber he's studied the maps in the 2007 guidebook (page 342 shows that passage quite well).
While you're doing your guidebook studies, look at route #844 too. I did mention that bolt in the block on the ground. And apparently I liked the route too, in spite of the weird bolts (two stars!).
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The rest of this shouldn't be publicly posted should it?
I wouldn't have told him that much. Surprised you didn't refer him to the cultural attache ;)
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Thanks Brad, what be your thoughts on it after seeing it again? Did Lars have a parting wish for style of ascent?
Waldo, did you know there is a relatively clear way up that canyon in between Goat and Resurrection( not along the base of Resurrection)?
Of course he does. Like any real Pinnacles climber he's studied the maps in the 2007 guidebook (page 342 shows that passage quite well).
Clink, Brad, I've been up that pleasant canyon several times, though never with Jack.
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I'm not too sure whether I'd like to go back to that exact spot.
That's funny - I could have sworn you said you would NEVER go back there.
We clearly need to all work together to get clink's focus elsewhere. Too much other rock out there to go back to that jinxed spot. I know the 3rd time can be a charm but based on the events that have happened there so far it could also be fatal. I think this thread should get the axe and let's just let that thing fade into obscurity.
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I think this thread should get the axe and let's just let that thing fade into obscurity.
Perfect. Not.
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A most definite line. Taboo or no taboo. Broken bit at high point.
Story isn't finished being writ. May the rest be in ink not blood.
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Blood and Writ
both ominous and literary. Has a good sound to it.
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gotta be 5.9
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gotta be 5.9
Sometimes 10a can seem like 5.9 >:D
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Carrion my Wayward Son.
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Carrion on my Wayward Sun?
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Carrion my Wayward Son.
There will be pieces when you are done.
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Geez
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There will be pieces when you are done.
Or a greasy spot.
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Be interested to have Mucci weigh in on this route. After intermission.
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There will be pieces when you are done.
Lay your weary head on breasts.
Don't you fly no more...
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Drinking way too much Ethanol from the Heartland boys.
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Lay your weary head on breasts.
hey hey hey...this is a family site! ::)
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huh? what do you mean? Chicken is great! Besides, it was the only thing that would rhyme to get me to the next verse line.
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Lay your weary head on breasts.Don't you fly no more...
No, no, no.
The rest goes:
Lay your gear and rope to rest
You won't climb no mo'
ba, ba, baba, ba, ba, babababa,
ba, ba, baba, ba, ba, bababa.
:blahblah: :guitar: :madman: :out:
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I like your percussionist nelkins.
Wanna go kayaking this weekend? :prrr:
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This respectfully originated thread has been overtaken by groupies.
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Anybody seen any good concerts lately?
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Marry Poppins is coming to town.
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Anybody wanna buy a duck?
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my bathtub is full
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Blood and Writ
both ominous and literary. Has a good sound to it.
Munge, Nelkins - Bit by Bit?
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Munge, Nelkins - Bit by Bit?
Sounds painful.
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Anybody wanna buy a duck?
Have you got a duck?
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On the positive side, note that a lot of other areas are open for the rest of the season, including Goat Rock
May the Holy Shearing Fleece Force be with ewe'll.
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I bet the trail is easy now, as the SAR team chopped a huge swath all the way to the base!
That route was/is a proud line that lars has had on his mind for over 30 years. probable 2 pitches maybe 3 and steep.
Yes, broken drill bit still in rock at high point.
I am never going back, and can say with authority that Lars will never either.
At this point, I would never even bring up the area with lars again, too many painful memories associated with that area. Further I can tell you he would caution anyone going up there to try the route, rather tell you to find a happy place somewhere else in the park. It is a dark place for us, and he would not wish an ounce of the pain delivered to him up there on his worst enemy.
Now, Clink, If you are set on going up there, please keep a look out for a camera in a case on the left side of the gully leading up to the starting block, I think I left it there when lars took his helo ride.
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One more thing...
Lars is an old school master.
Of all the projects that he showed Brad and I that day (many) most were very bold with 1st bolts in break yourself territory.
We would ask him about adding a bolt lower and he would reply "absolutely not" Hehehe
His Beserker route was the pinnacle of his FA's in Pinns, and rightfully so. Way out there for early 80's IMHO.
Man I miss pinnacles.
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Man I miss pinnacles.
And we miss you too (I mean, just for example, what the hell are we going to eat at MoM this weekend without your endless and fantastic BBQ chicken?).
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Thanks Brad,
Moving down to socal has been good, but i miss the gang and mini adventures always found off the beaten path.
Looking back, I feel I got a lot done at pinnacles, and scared myself enough to be fairly content!
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Thank you for the description and input, Mucci. The line is too good not to take a look. I will try and find the camera and be extra careful.
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I you cannot be careful, have fun.
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Resurrection Wall / Goat Rock
Sensitive: Resurrection Wall
Okay: Goat Rock, Shaft, Beak Peak, Western Front
Tuesday NightClear, with a low around 55.
WednesdaySunny and hot, with a high near 100.
JC, let's go check this thing out, carefully. Be at your place at 5am Wed next week? I'll be fine with over medium.
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How did it go?
Can the route be accessed from the top?
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How did it go?
Can the route be accessed from the top?
Supposed to go this Wednesday.
Will try to report back Thursday.
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Approach was a bitch. No sign of bolts in the area we went to. Was thinking Taboo-boo would be a good name for a route here, now Voodoo-doo(def; when bad shit happens allover again) seems more appropriate. First words JC uttered was "no one is ever going to go here".
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"no one is ever going to go here".
now i want to go
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First words JC uttered was "no one is ever going to go here".
Sorry bro - guess that didn't exactly set a positive tone.
I suppose if someone is willing to approach Le Petite Morte they might be willing to go a bit further?
From Mucci - Now, Clink, If you are set on going up there, please keep a look out for a camera in a case on the left side of the gully leading up to the starting block, I think I left it there when lars took his helo ride.
Oops - we forgot to review our homework - but maybe we were in the right place on that big block.
From Mucci - Lars is an old school master.
Of all the projects that he showed Brad and I that day (many) most were very bold with 1st bolts in break yourself territory.
This may be why we were unable to spot any bolts.
From Mucci - I bet the trail is easy now, as the SAR team chopped a huge swath all the way to the base!
That route was/is a proud line that lars has had on his mind for over 30 years. probable 2 pitches maybe 3 and steep.
We were hoping the approach would be a bit better defined but it has been a long time since the rescue op. Growth.
I couldn't remember how we descended through all that mess last winter - plus that would have only gotten us back to the vantage point - not to the route.
2 pitches maybe 3 and steep. Hmmmm...probably two with some parts appearing steep and others lower angle - pretty typical for a water chute - of course you never know how steep it is until you get on it. HMIYE doesn't look that steep and that thing is in yo face :ihih:
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Lower gully well below starting block
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fOdjmLa9D3sTBqrsYzQdCHx2RUkf8rodk64B2PpIyAojBgo7Uiml2jE_zITfxnm3ii6IWGRKc-Haug05RD2pE3o8CQcvLceRYdvgJu4q_PB_jcTyESuu10wdXAN7IZwAQyfE4B4k26DRJxXw-8TM7f=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
Upper gully with big boulders just below starting block
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dc2Lae-LGs3j3aQWIA8NLr8TM9zitn_rR-sXpnA1R_r62ei3z-BmYlbnrGcBzBG3xcip_ZXU8cr7UqmcxGGeHwCYx0lbHyO1BK-yaDwK962b6DptqhJHCvHrTq_-J4dQMoDJGq8jqzaoPBQwMa66kJ=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
Weird round top on wedged in boulder at starting block
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dFVxUATIPYAtnziYsIR5bp9lKWqZ4u2LodJgT5tSGOXRMpvgPA6Kg-Nn8bX_AR6WopM8De73kYrLf6Dy8cxMNTTdgCxYssKQ2PVKrAAlBAIh-AM1YCDbWgz9ljCKXVugY4ahkZNLV2Fq-BUX5Tqk96=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
Weird round top with start of route?
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cKBGHbauGPYftvdkvBRZsjOI3a-saDunRN7s7Rhu9zV_-QufGqIqLLiFH4cXvAaaJPWLWPQR-l2Viv-ueUUdmZMuOWSDMVGVnp974BBvh_4ZiNTsBJyoWUaexTAz0GegGc0flI6wrFrDKTj0rTLOxf=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
Water streak taken from gully above starting block
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cxb-GdcNTBS5XFcmDzW71kn5i8-p9WdIwVfMdjKwbesOlISPBQa1Ln6TK5RlG8kCnRl89eLEeMwDW3HR7JDIL7BFatiy2AhNMG1Vugqhby9vOChElcUgmTCvQzgPNaYfEmxO8XdogL4yPh7o7UJ8JT=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
Cliff with route? You can see the starting block near the bottom of the picture in the middle. It sticks up and left out of the vegetation. There is a thick patch of moss under the left side. The water streak goes all the way to the top of the cliff, left of the obvious notch.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3f5lmk3euvu2_1UbeQI39ysd6f-hA9qHNL4c3H-BeZ30acJ1BV6hFtAeaxr-eRLrn0ACA5DNWkCEvdduXekeBAbIU7FYFlHzr6vWqbz6zBCzN-mcQtXrEPHVkJgA62afWa2Z4gJQmCaDRHqeITUtqIh=w657-h625-no?authuser=0)
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now i want to go
I had a feeling...
Thanks for posting up the pics and notes JC. Brad and Josh might weigh in on your pics.
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Good looking line.
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Brad and Josh might weigh in on your pics.
Or break into a cold sweat :'(
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Good looking line.
Could Tabooboo become Señor Bentonite? 8)
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Is this across from resurrection?
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Is this across from resurrection?
Somewhat, but further up the canyon. NNW side of Goat. I did not know the West side doesn't open till 7:30 am. Not much of an early start to beat the heat. We spent some time exploring a poison oak bypass, then backtracked.
That route was/is a proud line that lars has had on his mind for over 30 years. probable 2 pitches maybe 3 and steep.
The route we were looking at undulates and doesn't get completely vertical. It's a mix of a lower angled section then a steeper section, so always something to hit. A do not fall special.
Lars is an old school master.
Of all the projects that he showed Brad and I that day (many) most were very bold with 1st bolts in break yourself territory.
A caveat?
It is one thing to do so on your own terms and another to on someone else's.
Once Geoff on Resurrection and again myself up Citadel Canyon, ended up on a "supposed" route, climbing way past the break you point only to luckily survive a retreat. These sections that later ended up being protected by others with 3 bolts.
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when in doubt run it out
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A caveat?
It is one thing to do so on your own terms and another to on someone else's.
Once Geoff on Resurrection and again myself up Citadel Canyon, ended up on a "supposed" route, climbing way past the break you point only to luckily survive a retreat. These sections that later ended up being protected by others with 3 bolts.
2nd Ascents are always harder, especially without info.
(also, I don't think Clink was insinuating in context that Lars put up any "supposed" routes in Citadel canyon, just that finding an old Lars route is similarly hard as an attempt on a second attempt generally).
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The route at Citadel was a weird case of receiving a topo showing a route that was designed before it was bolted. ???
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that is how I do all my routes
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when in doubt run it out
Or place a bolt.....
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that is how I do all my routes
You no use protection.
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You no use protection.
I think you are confused
Mr Mud 0
You 6
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I have been spoiled by the steeper routes with good holds and clean falls, that we have found in the last 6 months. Lars and his routes are a mystery at this point, they are fables. A hike up from Western Front and my good pair of binoculars to find these bolts may fit in before a work day.
What would Lars do?
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run it out
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I have been spoiled by the steeper routes with good holds and clean falls, that we have found in the last 6 months. Lars and his routes are a mystery at this point, they are fables. A hike up from Western Front and my good pair of binoculars to find these bolts may fit in before a work day.
What would Lars do?
seems like a lot of mysteries have been solved lately. It's ok if we leave the next gen a mystery or two.
That's why all my bolts are actually glue-ons with replica hex heads!!
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Sweet
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PPP
Purely
Psychological
Protection
Whose down with PPP?
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I thought you were to go up with PPP
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Please paint the hangers when you find them.
When does the bermed tail go in?