MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: climberdude on January 28, 2016, 06:06:12 PM
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I recently rebolted Pinky Pinnacle, which I reported to Brad and others. This is definitely a somewhat obscure climb although it is somewhat close to the trail. I found bolts and piton holes on it. Despite the climb not showing up in the guidebooks until Rubine's guidebook, I suspect the climb was probably done in the 1970's. The first ascentionists have never been identified.
A close inspection during the rebolting work showed that there are to horizontal piton slots above the first and only lead bolt. This piton slot are unique because they were formed by a Lost Arrow piton for one and probably a knife blade piton for the other. There are no other piton slots above, so I suspect that the first ascent party did two moves of aid then then a few moves of free climbing to the top. Today the climb is a free climb.
Although I have reported this to Brad for inclusion in future guidebooks, I thought I would provide some information on the protection. The piton slot will only accept a deeply placed Black Diamond Red (0.1) X4 Cam, but two lobes will be slightly over-extended. The next larger X4 cam will not fit because the head width is too wide. I do not have a Black Diamond 0.1-0.2 hybrid cam, but if the head width is the same as a 0.1 cam, then this might work better. Please do not try pitons since these would enlarge the slot. The other slot would only take a knife blade, so clean pro could not be used. Because of the so-so cam placement, I used a screamer quickdraw. I now give the protection a PG13+ rating. Do not pull hard on the flake which higher forms a foothold. This flake is loose, which you will notice by the hollow sound.
There are now two bolts at the top with rappel chains. I will sometime go back when El Nino leaves to patch the bolt hole at the bottom. I tried to patch it the day I did the rebolting, but the two part epoxy syringe I purchased at OSH was already solid in the separate tubes. Oh well, I should have questioned why OSH only charged me $0.01 for the epoxy.
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The piton slot will only accept a deeply placed Black Diamond Red (0.1) X4 Cam, but two lobes will be slightly over-extended. The next larger X4 cam will not fit because the head width is too wide. I do not have a Black Diamond 0.1-0.2 hybrid cam, but if the head width is the same as a 0.1 cam, then this might work better.
I will sometime go back when El Nino leaves to patch the bolt hole at the bottom.
Hey Mark,
I have an alien hybrid black/blue that might work. I'll go check it out if I get a chance. we've been over that way quite a bit lately working on Kat Pinnacle - just haven't had the time to get on Pinky. I usually have my bolt bag and patching epoxy with me too so I can plug the old hole if you don't get to it first. I use instacrete epoxy - it works well and disguises too - it dries whitish gray and is pretty economical.
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If you shove a cam in the pin scar, you won't be able to use a pinky jam.
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If you shove a cam in the pin scar, you won't be able to use a pinky jam.
Of all your digits - the pinky has virtually no strength.
What kind of a dunce are you?
Trump that! :o
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Of all your digits - the pinky has virtually no strength.
Speak for yourself. I am very attached to and proud of my pinkies.
I apologize for thread degradation to climberdude, it is inevitable. Nice post on Pinky.
JC, just because you could probably hang no hands, upside down from a roof by ass clenching a unicycle seat shaped hold, is all the more reason not to doubt others individual unique abilities.
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Speak for yourself. I am very attached to and proud of my pinkies.
I apologize for thread degradation to climberdude, it is inevitable. Nice post on Pinky.
JC, just because you could probably hang no hands, upside down from a roof by ass clenching a unicycle seat shaped hold, is all the more reason not to doubt others individual unique abilities.
whoa! this is a family site! LOL
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Speak for yourself. I am very attached to and proud of my pinkies.
Clink, we could have a pinkie-pullup contest at MOM weekend - after an appropriate amount of beer has been consumed.
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The piton slot will only accept a deeply placed Black Diamond Red (0.1) X4 Cam, but two lobes will be slightly over-extended. The next larger X4 cam will not fit because the head width is too wide. I do not have a Black Diamond 0.1-0.2 hybrid cam, but if the head width is the same as a 0.1 cam, then this might work better. Please do not try pitons since these would enlarge the slot. The other slot would only take a knife blade, so clean pro could not be used. Because of the so-so cam placement, I used a screamer quickdraw. I now give the protection a PG13+ rating. Do not pull hard on the flake which higher forms a foothold. This flake is loose, which you will notice by the hollow sound.
JC climbed it clipping only the bolt and balanced through the top moves with me calculating on how best to minimize his impact on the local fauna.
I checked out the hybrid black/blue alien in the left pin scar(about 3.6 ft above the bolt) but doubt the rock would hold as it is very soft where the lobes contact. Body weight until it fails placement.
The advantage of a fixed pin for leverage and depth is arguable. A short angle with the eye up may work. The climb is a piece of yuk yuck. A loose high ball. Head up the hill and climb Kentucky Woman instead.
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Notice how he neglected to mention the lack of a pinky jam?
The bolt suckers you into moving up higher where the real crux is – and if you blow it you’re probably looking at a grounder. The good news is the ground is soft and there is lots of brush to lessen your impact. I would leave the rating as R based on the so-so/imaginary pro. clink also experimented with placing the same cam behind the hollow flake but I imagine that would rip out from flake flex and possibly take part or all of the flake with it. Either way, this is another no fall route and one that leaves you saying “I’m glad I never have to lead that again!”
Mark – the new hardware was greatly appreciated. We tightened up the right anchor bolt – the nut probably worked loose from the initial rappel. I downclimbed back to the pedestal/top of the flake to start the lower. We didn’t have our patch material with us – so the old bolt hole still needs patched - lame, I know.
The crux move(s) well above the bolt - felt closer to 5.6 than 5.5 to me but maybe it was the PO talkin’
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50267956402_5f3ddc131e_z.jpg)
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Ahem, there is an elephant in the room.
edit oh wait you did mention the PO in there. Dang dude!
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It does match the shirt
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That looks like you need a shot from the DR.
Heal up....so clink will come near you.
I remember once I got it, gave it to jenny who didn't know why she was scratching......I know right away.
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Heal up....so clink will come near you.
Our relationship is progressing but has not moved to that level.
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Sofa Oak. Hate that the most.
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Thanks for tightening up the nut - it probably rotated slightly when rappelling as you noted. Yes, I also thought the the moves above the bolt were around 5.6 instead of 5.5. I will get to the patching when the rock dries out when Mr. Nino leaves.
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Thanks for tightening up the nut - it probably rotated slightly when rappelling as you noted. Yes, I also thought the the moves above the bolt were around 5.6 instead of 5.5. I will get to the patching when the rock dries out when Mr. Nino leaves.
Glad to do it. I will report that rating to Brad. To me 5.5 is just plain fun. That thing is not! clink didn't lead it (he's smarter than us) - so he may also agree to a grade bump. Rock is bone dry. If we head back out there this weekend(highly likely) I can run back up there and do a quick patch.
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clink didn't lead it (he's smarter than us) - so he may also agree to a grade bump. Rock is bone dry. If we head back out there this weekend(highly likely) I can run back up there and do a quick patch.
Pretty much.