MudNCrud Forums

Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: beanolar on January 30, 2016, 10:49:24 AM

Title: The cleft
Post by: beanolar on January 30, 2016, 10:49:24 AM
Forgot my #6.
Knees are almost 6"...

(http://rs1052.pbsrc.com/albums/s457/beanolar/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160130_103708_zpsnj7dey2n.jpg?w=480&h=480&fit=clip)
Title: Re: The cleft
Post by: JC w KC redux on January 30, 2016, 10:58:29 AM
Dude! I know you bruise easy but that is cray cray crazeee!
We gotta get together and work on your technique  ;D
Title: Re: The cleft
Post by: Brad Young on January 30, 2016, 12:04:03 PM
Whoa momma! I never figured you for a "princess and the pea" type.
Title: Re: The cleft
Post by: squiddo on January 30, 2016, 01:41:11 PM
Ouch!!!! Proud
Title: Re: The cleft
Post by: beanolar on January 30, 2016, 06:11:21 PM
Ha ha thanks
Should probably practice more.. And get more gear!
Title: Re: The cleft
Post by: mynameismud on January 30, 2016, 08:24:41 PM
Wow, congratulations on the persistence. 
Title: Re: The cleft
Post by: mungeclimber on January 31, 2016, 01:33:15 PM
Whoa, how did this happen?
Title: Re: The cleft
Post by: beanolar on January 31, 2016, 06:19:18 PM
:) I had no choice

I think it was mostly in the offwidth at the top. The ez route was the slab next to it but too much exposure, given how far back and soso my last piece was. I inchwormed up- could've done way better but needed the certainty  of not falling...
Title: Re: The cleft
Post by: mungeclimber on January 31, 2016, 08:19:01 PM
Dang, heal fast.

Give some thought to lay back moves. I recall I also looked up back and right to gain some secure moves when it seemed improbable.
Title: Re: The cleft
Post by: mynameismud on January 31, 2016, 08:24:11 PM
The top is either slab out left or OW inside.
Title: Re: The cleft
Post by: Brad Young on January 31, 2016, 08:27:53 PM
The hell with advice about how to climb it - I'm just proud of you for getting it done. Nice, burly lead.
Title: Re: The cleft
Post by: clink on January 31, 2016, 11:04:23 PM
Quote
The top is either slab out left or OW inside.

In other words the top is slab out left.
Title: Re: The cleft
Post by: beanolar on February 01, 2016, 09:32:25 AM
 ;D ;D

Yeah, the 5.6 is definitely the slab at the top. Not sure how hard the OW is, maybe 5.7?

I did see some of those footholds behind me earlier in the climb. Neat route!

I actually do love offwidth. Where else is there good, easy offwidth @ Pinns?
Title: Re: The cleft
Post by: mynameismud on February 01, 2016, 01:32:09 PM
I too really like that climb.  The first time or two I stayed in the OW all the way to the top.  It is harder but definitely more secure.  The first time I did the slab I probably went through an entire block of chalk and the vultures were eyeing my belayer.
Title: Re: The cleft
Post by: mynameismud on February 01, 2016, 01:35:09 PM
;D ;D

I actually do love offwidth. Where else is there good, easy offwidth @ Pinns?

Welcome to the Machine on the far right of Discovery is a bit wide.  There used to be a PO bush at the base so keep an eye out.  Entrance is a bit OW and like the Slot can be done as face or OW.  Give me a bit and I will think of others.
Title: Re: The cleft
Post by: Aaron McDonald on February 01, 2016, 02:27:25 PM
Nice job Laura!  We need to go get on Camp 4 Wall.  I have some shinny new VG9s that are just begging for action.  Highly recommend The Slot.  Welcome to the Machine is completely choked with PO.  If you do not get PO I would be willing to get into it. I also have my eye on an OW / squeeze chimney FA that might be a 2 pitches.
Title: Re: The cleft
Post by: mudworm on February 01, 2016, 08:53:29 PM
Proud bruises, Laura! You should borrow some shorts from Brad so you can wear them everywhere just to show off the "war wound!" Yes, there will be concerned looks and whispers about abuses, but as soon as they find out the real cause, they will be very impressed!

I love OW. Aaron, if you ever need a partner to go to Yosemite for a whole day/weekend's of OW training, hit me up. Had done it before and will do it again in a heartbeat. My apologies to the masters of Mud for mentioning the big ditch on this Pinns thread, but Aaron started it... or, is there a formation called Camp 4 Wall at the Pinns?

Title: Re: The cleft
Post by: JC w KC redux on February 01, 2016, 09:29:01 PM
easy offwidth

oxymoron
Title: Re: The cleft
Post by: clink on February 01, 2016, 09:56:56 PM
Quote
Nice job Laura!  We need to go get on Camp 4 Wall.

Aaron did mention the big ditch here >:(

Quote
I also have my eye on an OW / squeeze chimney FA that might be a 2 pitches.

To be named Aaroneous.
 ;D
Title: Re: The cleft
Post by: mynameismud on February 02, 2016, 09:52:07 AM
Aaron did mention the big ditch here >:(

To be named Aaroneous.
 ;D

Nice
Title: Re: The cleft
Post by: beanolar on February 02, 2016, 12:24:11 PM
Hey Aaroneous, what's a v9? Let's get in some OW! How's the foot?? If it's good enough to limp thru canada, it's good enough for OW. Maybe it'll put us on a level playing field..

I'm totes allergic to PO. Let's kill it all.

Camp 4 wall I assume is the one at Yosemite. Unless we want to start a renegade campground at Pinns....... .. .
Title: Re: The cleft
Post by: mungeclimber on February 02, 2016, 03:51:38 PM
Teton Tea and small piece of ranch land is all we need.

I see two parcels near Pinnacles today. Both listed in the millions of $.

Yowzer!
Title: Re: The cleft
Post by: beanolar on February 04, 2016, 06:23:15 AM
That sounds good. Just publish the address here. We'll get the campground started..
Title: Re: The cleft
Post by: beanolar on February 04, 2016, 06:30:52 AM
It's starting to look like the Hawaiian island chain
Except with the big island in the middle
(http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s457/beanolar/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160204_061634_zpszitdv0nd.jpg) (http://s1052.photobucket.com/user/beanolar/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160204_061634_zpszitdv0nd.jpg.html)
Title: Re: The cleft
Post by: Brad Young on February 04, 2016, 06:53:18 AM

It's starting to look like the Hawaiian island chain
Except with the big island in the middle
(http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s457/beanolar/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160204_061634_zpszitdv0nd.jpg) (http://s1052.photobucket.com/user/beanolar/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160204_061634_zpszitdv0nd.jpg.html)


Holy wow! I'm sure you have nice legs Laura; very nice legs. Except when you don't   ::)
Title: Re: The cleft
Post by: mungeclimber on February 04, 2016, 07:18:36 AM
That sounds good. Just publish the address here. We'll get the campground started..

Lol, tents and wine cellars. I like it. Zillow makes it not easy to share the page. I'll see if I can find another listing.
Title: Re: The cleft
Post by: beanolar on February 04, 2016, 07:22:11 AM
Yeah B I was initially grossed out by the size of the picture, but couldnt figure out how to shrink. Enjoy ;)
Title: Re: The cleft
Post by: JC w KC redux on February 04, 2016, 10:23:23 AM
I got the 3d version at the gym last night. The pic doesn't do it justice  ;D