MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: Gavin on March 04, 2016, 01:39:20 PM
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Hey gang -
I thought folks might be interested in a new line that I officially finished (after a few days of work on it with Mr. Mud and Noal) and got the FFA on today: Sticky Monkey (5.11b). It's at the Voyeur Crag area that Mr. Mud clued me in to and that I've been frequenting with him and Noal, located along the High Peaks Trail just before the short tunnel section, on the shaded walls to the left of the trail. Sticky Monkey is the first climb you come to off of the main trail.
It looked like the rain might hold off this morning, so Noal and I decided to give it a go so I could put in the last anchor bolt, add some chains for an equalized anchor, scrub / clean the face a bit, and get the FFA. Well, the weather held and we had success on all counts! The line is about 60 feet of pure sport climbing on a vertical face, with 7 well-spaced bolts and the two-bolt anchor with chains. Consensus among the three of us is that it is at least 2-star quality (and perhaps 3-star, but I'm biased), with some sustained hard climbing through most of it, especially in the middle of the route. The rock is great quality and the moves are a lot of fun. I'd say it is one of the best 5.11 lines that has gone up in quite awhile. I'd be happy to get additional opinions and thoughts on quality / ratings from anyone else who wants to give it a go!
There is also a nice two-pitch 5.8 to the left that Mr. Mud and Noal put up, and a really good 5.10d even further left that the three of us put up. There is a lot of potential for additional lines in the future that we'll be working on... Anyone that is interested should come and join us!
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NIce! Thanks gotta check that place out
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Sounds fantastic. And nice job on squeeeeezing it in before the weather.
I'm planning on climbing on that wall two weekends from now, if the weather is dry enough by then. Naturally I'll have to check it out.
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Sounds fantastic. And nice job on squeeeeezing it in before the weather.
I'm planning on climbing on that wall two weekends from now, if the weather is dry enough by then. Naturally I'll have to check it out.
If you'll be at the park on the 20th (or 21st), let me know. I'll be up in Milpitas on the 19th but will be around after that.
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Whoo Hooo. So glad you got the lead before the rains hit. I will need to get on that when I get back. It is a good line, nice combination of pockets, pinches, crimps and knobs.
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How about a 5.7 for us simple folk?
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How about a 5.7 for us simple folk?
Trump This**, Tuff Chix*, Masters of Mischief*, Where the Sun Shines*, Mugshot*, KY Woman**, Black Snake*, Hood of the Cobra**, Soap Box Slab, Inchworm are all 5.7 and we're working on some stuff that will be in the 6,7,8 range. Some nice 9's too. I upped a few stars for things that should have gotten more. Maybe if they had been soft brushed... :P
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Nice steep line and good name. Congrats guys and to Gavin on the FFA!
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Just checked in with The Kid. She is still coming along. A couple more weeks for the official healing period to be over. She said she is still struggling a bit but is way better. I wouldn't be surprised if she's be ready for Sticky Monkey by summer - good timing for a shady area. Can't wait for the rainy season to be over and the closures to lift - that's right - summer time is Pinnacles time...unless you're one of those fair weather mud duds. I plan on getting back to some rebolting, climbing some old stuff I haven't done and hopefully get some new things done too. Right now I can't think past tomorrow :prrr:
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Nice steep line and good name. Congrats guys and to Gavin on the FFA!
What a back-slappin' brown noser.
Doesn't anybody talk smack anymore? ;D
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And nice job on squeeeeezing it in before the weather.
He really did just that. Gavin put in the second anchor bolt and I was gonna go for a spin on TR. Right after I tied in we felt the droplets start. He took the rope instead and had just enough time for the redpoint before the rain picked up!
Whoo Hooo.
We did do some of that too.
Super fun high quality route. Good job Gavin and Mr. Mud!
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you too Noal.
It is a good line, there are a couple of different ways to climb the route but hitting certain holds definitely makes a difference. Plus the top backs off but still makes you work for it a bit.
OCD Overdrive just to the left of Sticky Monkey is 5.8 a pretty decent.
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Gavin led the first pitch of OCD Overdrive today. He thought it was quite good and the rating is 5.8.
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4 years ago today KC and I did Lichen to Lead.
Where is nelkins? I don't recognize this NOAL guy who appears to be shouting and spraying ;D
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JC Why don't you do the first El Nino ascent of Birdbrain Pinnacle. It is the perfect day for it. Make sure to video the backflip descent and then post and spray. Wear the orange speedos servant boy.>:D
As for dealing with withdrawal from Pinns climbing this weekend, mix a bit of drilling dust with yer morning coffee.
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If you'll be at the park on the 20th (or 21st), let me know.
Three steeps to do. I'll take you up on one or both days.
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Three steeps to do. I'll take you up on one or both days.
Nice. Maybe we can plan for the 20th and meet up with a bunch of folks at the Voyeur Crag area, do some climbing, and get in at least a couple bolts on your project there, as well as others in the area (assuming the rain has let up by then).
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Nice. Maybe we can plan for the 20th and meet up with a bunch of folks at the Voyeur Crag area, do some climbing, and get in at least a couple bolts on your project there, as well as others in the area (assuming the rain has let up by then).
Next weekend is looking sunny and steep. Three days and four areas to go to.
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Next weekend is looking sunny and steep. Three days and four areas to go to.
Thanks for the jinx - a new storm system will probably move in early Saturday >:(
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Flying up to Wa tomorrow. I might be able to climb next Sunday if the weather is any good.
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Flying up to Wa tomorrow. I might be able to climb next Sunday if the weather is any good.
Plan on Sunday. Bring the arsenal.
Arsenal-Yer arse 'n all yer stuff.
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Did all three of the routes mentioned above. We thought the left most route was the 5.8 and joe went for it. Quite a wake up on that one. Some holds broke at the crux when I did it and I fell. Some wicked crimping now. And where the bolt at the crux was placed was a little weird but maybe that was the wicked warmup pump. Seems like at least 10d and the 2nd pitch was fun too but I couldnt find the anchor? The next route we did was actually the 5.8. It was enjoyed by all, nice rock. Then I went for the 5.11b. I fell. But Joe had an impressive moment and led it clean. And I got it clean just after. Very wonderful route. Good work Gavin and crew. We all thought it earned at least 2 stars. Fun area. We enjoyed having it to ourselves and played some nice tunes.
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Did all three of the routes mentioned above. We thought the left most route was the 5.8 and joe went for it. Quite a wake up on that one. Some holds broke at the crux when I did it and I fell. Some wicked crimping now. And where the bolt at the crux was placed was a little weird but maybe that was the wicked warmup pump. Seems like at least 10d and the 2nd pitch was fun too but I couldnt find the anchor? The next route we did was actually the 5.8. It was enjoyed by all, nice rock. Then I went for the 5.11b. I fell. But Joe had an impressive moment and led it clean. And I got it clean just after. Very wonderful route. Good work Gavin and crew. We all thought it earned at least 2 stars. Fun area. We enjoyed having it to ourselves and played some nice tunes.
Nice, Adam. Glad to hear you and Joe enjoyed the area and the routes. Yeah, I'm really pleased at how the 5.11b turned out, too. We were back up there today and I took 3 more laps on it, and it really is fun. We also made progress on another couple of projects.
It is a very nice area to hang out and climb... Hopefully we'll have some more lines finished in the near future!
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Then I went for the 5.11b. I fell. But Joe had an impressive moment and led it clean. And I got it clean just after. Very wonderful route. Good work Gavin and crew. We all thought it earned at least 2 stars. Fun area.
I toproped sticky Monkey today and agree. Three stars.
We enjoyed having it to ourselves and played some nice tunes.
We had to share the area with Mud and Noal and listen to them grunting from around the corner.
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I was surprised with how clean Sticky Monkey was, good work Gavin! As it solidifies I might also be in support of a three-stars rating.
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thought you said you knocked 100 lbs of rock off? and that block up top past the crux that you knocked off? that was the size of a loaf of bread......fun routes, but I suppose you mean "clean" for Pinnacles rock......
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but I suppose you mean "clean" for Pinnacles rock......
HA, devil in the details....
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thought you said you knocked 100 lbs of rock off? and that block up top past the crux that you knocked off? that was the size of a loaf of bread......fun routes, but I suppose you mean "clean" for Pinnacles rock......
I said we knocked 100lbs of rock off the crag. And that was an accumulative total for all three routes. But I think that thing I broke off Sticky Monkey was the only thing that broke off that route... Right? Maybe Gavin's sequence navigated a different zone and it had to go for my sequence.
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but I suppose you mean "clean" for Pinnacles rock......
You have to divide by four to get the equivalent comparison to other areas star ratings.
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breaking one hold on a 5.11 that has seen about 6 ascents is a statement in itself.
Good to hear you like the area. Did you go to the top of the second pitch of the 10d ( far left route )? We have not completed that so there is not anchor. We topped roped the first pitch and we all agree that it is a bit harder now with some of the crimps gone.
After doing the 5.8 yesterday it is definitely much dirtier after the rains. We will probably have to clean that route one or two more times. It seemed quite dirty.
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For those of us who were occupying ourselves at the Old Man area, the Voyeur Crag crowd was slighting us by referring to their area as the REAL MAN area. Can you believe this?
I suggested that Cutting the Rug be renamed Little Piranhas Ate my Finger Pads.
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I said we knocked 100lbs of rock off the crag. And that was an accumulative total for all three routes. But I think that thing I broke off Sticky Monkey was the only thing that broke off that route... Right? Maybe Gavin's sequence navigated a different zone and it had to go for my sequence.
Yeah, I'd be interested to see how different folks work sequences on Sticky Monkey, and where people feel the crux is. To me it felt like the area around the 4th and 5th bolts. In the range of the 6th and 7th bolts I could see there being a larger hold or two that might go at some point, but I agree that otherwise the rock is very solid and quite clean, especially for the 5th or 6th ascent, as Mr. Mud said.
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agreed Gavin....all 3 routes were very good, but especially the 11...I also agree w the crux, where the 2 bolts were closer together....I think that was between the 4th and 5th....I was able to milk a rest after the crux which made the higher section more manageable....we were thinking my lead might have been the 2nd or 3rd ascent, but it sounds like it's seen quite a bit more traffic than that?
Adam and I thought the far left route was the 5.8....our buddy Jon was shaking his head....so when I arrived at the crux on that route and was hesitating, there was some question about whether it was 5.8....but knowing what a sand bagger Dennis can be, it wasn't until I led the middle route that I was sure that the left one was 5.10....I was worried that was what he's calling 5.8 these days.....
you never know w that animal.....
kudos to all of you...worthy additions, fun setting....
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Biting my tongue repeatedly on this thread other than to tell mud and nelkins to DIE!
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Yesterday on my way home from Yosemite, I checked in with Mr. Mud asking him how his day at Pinnacles went (after spraying about my Yosemite trip). As the new crag started to sound more interesting, I asked about the name of the new area. When he told me the name, I had to ask him to spell it. Was that really a word? I had never heard of it. So he told me the story behind it. I was almost ROFL'ng. You guys need to make more noises up there to alert people on the trail. That's a beautiful area and easy for people to get a false sense that they are the only ones on the trail.
I hope the crux moves discussed here are not reachy. :D
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Hi, Joe
the 11 had only had one lead before you guys. Other than the one lead the 11 had a couple of TR's over two days.
Joe, question; did you guys lead the second pitch of the 10 to the top?
JC:
DIE
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agreed Gavin....all 3 routes were very good, but especially the 11...I also agree w the crux, where the 2 bolts were closer together....I think that was between the 4th and 5th....I was able to milk a rest after the crux which made the higher section more manageable....we were thinking my lead might have been the 2nd or 3rd ascent, but it sounds like it's seen quite a bit more traffic than that?
Adam and I thought the far left route was the 5.8....our buddy Jon was shaking his head....so when I arrived at the crux on that route and was hesitating, there was some question about whether it was 5.8....but knowing what a sand bagger Dennis can be, it wasn't until I led the middle route that I was sure that the left one was 5.10....I was worried that was what he's calling 5.8 these days.....
you never know w that animal.....
kudos to all of you...worthy additions, fun setting....
Joe, as Dennis mentioned, you had the second clean lead on the 5.11 after me. We were referring to leads and TRs when we mentioned "6 or so" ascents.
Glad you liked the routes and setting!
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fun setting....
setting!
You can tell, Brad's out of town when...
Although he may have given up on this one...
The sun sets...and faults can't run ;D
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set·ting
ˈsediNG/
noun
1.
the place or type of surroundings where something is positioned or where an event takes place.
"cozy waterfront cottage in a peaceful country setting"
synonyms: surroundings, position, situation, environment, background, backdrop, milieu, environs, habitat; More
it is a fun environment seems to work.
So, dude, drink a beer and relax in a fun setting.
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set·ting
ˈsediNG/
noun
Sorry - It was used as a verb :o
So, dude, drink a beer and relax in a fun setting.
I actually did that the last 3 days - but thanks for the suggestion ;D
Be joining my brutha from anutha mutha in a few days for more of the same.
hopefully clink and I can get busy working on See Alice Pinnacle when I return 8)
P.S. I was drillin' granny solo on Friday :P
Trump that :lol:
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so on the 5.10, I led it on sight clean and came down....then Adam went up and belayed Jon from the top....I spotted the first bolt on the second pitch and again thought maybe the route was the 5.8 because I thought, probably mistakenly, that you told me the 5.8 had 2 pitches....but since I didn't see anymore bolts, I came down.....I believe Adam went up a bit, but did not top out....I was on the ground....
really good work on the routes....we went back for the same burgers that we went out for w you and Noel, food was just as good, but the service was atrocious....took 3 days to get our order.....and saw our first Trump bumper sticker in the parking lot.....
mudworm, the moves on the 11 are not reachy....it's a warm up for you....total crusher that you are.....
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saw our first Trump bumper sticker in the parking lot
:o ;D ;) ;D :o 8) >:D
I'll have stickers for everyone that attends the MoM weekend
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Lol, well that settles that, I'm out. Lol
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Yesterday on my way home from Yosemite, I checked in with Mr. Mud asking him how his day at Pinnacles went (after spraying about my Yosemite trip). As the new crag started to sound more interesting, I asked about the name of the new area. When he told me the name, I had to ask him to spell it. Was that really a word? I had never heard of it. So he told me the story behind it. I was almost ROFL'ng. You guys need to make more noises up there to alert people on the trail. That's a beautiful area and easy for people to get a false sense that they are the only ones on the trail.
I hope the crux moves discussed here are not reachy. :D
As Joe mentioned, you'll have no problems with the crux moves... The moves are sequential but not reachy, and the whole route is well protected. I definitely think you'll like it.
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Thanks Gavin and Joe. Being a scaredy cat I am, I think I'll wait for all the loose holds to have been broken off by you guys' dozen ascents.
I've been to the crag and love its location and the hike leading to it. I can totally see this area gain popularity once the area is adequately developed. It sounds like you guys are close if not already there. Nice job guys and thanks to all involved (Mr. Mud, Noal, Gavin, and clink... did I miss anyone?)!
... and the whole route is well protected.
Not if I can't plug a cam in. :D
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Lol, well that settles that, I'm out. Lol
It's okay buddy - I gotcha covered. You gotta come down and check out some of my mungesque FA's ;D
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You guys need to make more noises up there to alert people on the trail.
We make some grunting noises, heavy breathing,hootin'n hollerin', and sometimes horse snorting noises.
hopefully clink and I can get busy working on See Alice Pinnacle when I return
We have the Clinker now. You will have to visit the Voyeur Crag to retrieve him. >:D
agreed Gavin....all three routes were really good but especially the 11
Thanks for all the feedback Joe and Adam! Glad you liked the routes. Come up another day and hangout.
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mungesque
:)
Is that a real word?
;)
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hopefully clink and I can get busy working on See Alice Pinnacle when I return Cool
A true pinnacle. Looking forward to it.
You can tell, Brad's out of town when...
He will be back and has an interesting project also.
mungesque FA's
He would enjoy that whole area, vary mungeque. Bouldering too, there is.
I've been to the crag and love its location and the hike leading to it. I can totally see this area gain popularity once the area is adequately developed.
I would say the grunting by Noal, Gavin and Mud is only half done.
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everyone should realize that if they use a certain word in reference to a certain popular individual the data bit Gods just might work a certain editing magic.
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everyone should realize that if they use a certain word in reference to a certain popular individual the data bit Gods just might work a certain editing magic.
Cryptic, threatening and foreboding - kind of eerie.
What pres tell does this portend? :-X
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We make some grunting noises, heavy breathing,hootin'n hollerin', and sometimes horse snorting noises.
Sounds like the tagline for Brokeback Mountain ;D
We have the Clinker now. You will have to visit the Voyeur Crag to retrieve him.
A temporary lapse of reason.
I will have to come check it out when See Alice Pinnacle is done 8)
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Sounds like the tagline for Brokeback Mountain
More like hunting calls to get all those pervy hikers wound up. Then they take it in the Tunnel.
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What pres tell does this portend? :-X
Nothing good I am sure
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What pres tell does this portend? Lips Sealed
Idiomatics are in charge.
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My fave
Word
Filter
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More like hunting calls to get all those pervy hikers wound up. Then they take it in the Tunnel.
Ouch! ;D
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Str0m
Ha! Beat the filter!
:ciappa: