MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: mudworm on March 17, 2016, 10:57:21 AM
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But of course you guys probably have already seen it. ;)
http://www.climbing.com/news/rebolting-resurrection-wall-at-pinnacles-national-park/
Hand drilling is totally overrated. Well, it seems that way right now.
;D
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Nice job on a nice route.
I would love to have one of the "RK" bolts....my consolation was Mr. Mud's locker and tat. He still uses the locker (yeah, I have to give him his gear back).
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Hmmmm, no mention of what Brad and I did up there. Cool write up though.
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still use the locker I found at the base of El Cap. forgot which one that was.
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Adam,
I understand your concerns about the article. Over the years a number of climbers have contributed to the upgrading of the route. Jack Holmgren added a belay bolt at the top of pitch 1 in the 1980's. Clint Cummins added a bolt to the belay on both pitch 2 and pitch 3 in the early 90's. Dennis Erik replaced the bolt at the crux on the second pitch and added the chains at the pitch 2 anchor. You and Brad replaced the first three bolts on pitch 1 and replaced the belay bolts at the top of pitch 1 with Fixe double ring hangers. You also added two anchor bolts on the top of pitch 4.
The article I wrote was not meant to be a comprehensive history of the rebolting efforts on Resurrection Wall. It was meant to chronicle the trials and tribulations of our contribution to the overall effort. I apologize if you felt I slighted your efforts.
One thing I left out of the article is that I came very close to dying the second time I went up on the climb. I was going around the backside to get to the top and decided to take a shortcut which put me on very unfriendly terrain. About 100' off the ground wearing a 40 pound pack I started sliding into the abyss. When I finally stopped I spent about five minutes contemplating just cutting my pack loose and trying to save myself by lightening my load considerably. Luckily, its the Pinnacles and I was able to excavate a couple of footholds from the muck so I could continue, but it was a very, very close call.
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I should add that one of my major motivations for writing the article was to get some press for the Access Fund's new Anchor Replacement Fund (a small snippet about the rebolting also appeared in Rock and Ice). I started rebolting at the Pinnacles in 1991 or so and for the first 12 years I paid for all the hardware(bolts, hangers, chains, smash links, drill bits, etc.) out of my own pocket. I spent well over a thousand dollars of my own money.
In 2003 I got hooked up with Climbing Magazine's Anchor Replacement Initiative(ARI) and in 2004 with the American Safe Climbing Association(ASCA). The ARI has faded, but the ASCA has been extremely supportive of our efforts at the Pinnacles. Greg Barnes and Chris McNamara have been great in supplying us with the hardware we need to do the job right. I donate a lot of my old, vintage gear to their auctions. Look for a Chouinard-Frost bamboo shaft Piolet and Don Peterson's(FA of Tis-sa-ack with Royal Robbins) original Patagonia pile jacket from the 70's in the next fundraising auction.
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<snip>
I came very close to dying
<snip>
Luckily, its the Pinnacles and I was able to excavate a couple of footholds from the muck so I could continue
This is classic and has to go down in Pinnacles lore.
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Mungie wanted pictures.....
(https://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Climbing/Ressurection-Wall09/i-D3Q5nwH/0/X2/DSCF4701-X2.jpg)
(https://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Climbing/Ressurection-Wall09/i-FHkzL4N/0/X3/DSCF4706-X3.jpg)
(https://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Climbing/Ressurection-Wall09/i-MFkn3f6/0/X3/DSCF4709-X3.jpg)
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pics!