MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: F4? on March 27, 2016, 06:34:18 AM
-
On Friday, Squiddo and I climbed at the sister's and the upper crust.
Shockingly, we noticed loose bolts, where the hangers "moved".
The bolt is tightened. But the hanger can still wiggle
Even worse, on the 5.9 on the sister that over-looks the monolith.
I had to hand tighten the nut before committing to the move, on TR.
Brad, I thought you torqued your bolts down?
Sadly, no pictures due to Squiddo requiring me to have both hands on the rope...pffft
We need to have a bolt tightening day.
I will start a list in my head.
-
On Friday, Squiddo and I climbed at the sister's and the upper crust.
Shockingly
You could made news right there without adding a thing. >:D
A couple of the bolts on Corona loosened from deterioration of the substrate where the hanger made contact. The 5-piece bolts seized and could not be tightened further. A few routes at Upper Crust are due for re bolting.
Glad you've rebooted. :)
-
Glad you've rebooted. :)
Ha I like that, rebooted;-)
Clink we did the route left of the sister that you and Brad climbed when I approached with my son. Easier this time without him along :-)
-
That was the route Julius found and did most of the drilling on, Cook drilled the second bolt. Muffin Top on Love Handles. What did you think it's rated?
Bob just sent me some pics of yesterday. Bob was our rope gun for half the morning routes. Aaron was test driving the foot he broke on Balconies, that was at 90% healed last xray.
-
Neither my legs or the chimney are that short.
-
That was the route Julius found and did most of the drilling on, Cook drilled the second bolt. Muffin Top on Love Handles. What did you think it's rated?
Bob just sent me some pics of yesterday. Bob was our rope gun for half the morning routes. Aaron was test driving the foot he broke on Balconies, that was at 90% healed last xray.
The move at the second bolt to reach the pocket is the obvious one. Maybe 5.8/9?
I swore you and Brad both rapped but we walked off.
-
Yup, I'm back and leading 5.8....setting sights on Wet Kiss at 5.8+.
Squiddo was rattled at the sight of some of the bolt hangers NOT against the rock. It's a serious matter.
Oh, and I did see a nice jumping spot at the reservoir.....you go over the trail into the water.
Squiddo mumbled something about infection and shots????
-
Yeah the route was pretty nice. The bolt placements were good.
-
Neither my legs or the chimney are that short.
The photographer has competency issues.
Clink, I'd like to hold the rope again for your project. Also, I've got RPs I haven't used in decades that I'll volunteer to sacrifice in the little crack. With your permission, I'll also stand on them to see if they stick. I think one standing Waldo equals two falling Clinks.
-
Clink your legs have shrunk.
RPs in the the Pins, that has to be a good route.
-
Noal ando I established a new route on top of Pinch and Linch Wall. 5.6 or so. A fun well protected free standing pinnacle. 2x bolts, red through blue old style Camelot, a bit short probably right at 30 feet. Cool summit over looking the East Side of the pinnacles. Two bolts on top, we tr'd the face directly below the raps. The tr face is fun but short, I think probably to short to list as a route. Will post pics later. Bring lunch since lunch top rock is a cool place to hang out and eat.
-
Just 2 bolts?
-
Bratton, bored? Stop trolling come Boulder with me instead. risen and all.....
-
Busy.
Someone has to keep Str0m honest.
-
Busy.
Someone has to keep Str0m honest.
Good luck with that
-
Waldo, as improbable as it may look to weekend warriors , the upper steep section is going to go. Got a stance bolt in it as high as I could reach and Aaron also says it will go. I hope by stance. A series of great side pulls allows entry onto decent holds. This may all end up delusional if the rock quality goes south.
I am not sure anything will slot in the direct start seam but will try one of your rp's. Like Angle Iron days pushing stance.
-
How about pitons?
-
glad to see that Erik and Marc are getting the band back together.....buenas noticias....
-
glad to see that Erik and Marc are getting the band back together.....buenas noticias....
Ha! My shoulder feels great...second surgery for a climbing injury in 33 years. Eric can't say the same about his mental illness....
-
Hey, I resemble that comment!!
Joe, we missed you on Friday, but still talked about you.
-
I am not sure anything will slot in the direct start seam but will try one of your rp's. Like Angle Iron days pushing stance.
Something is better than nothing, even if it's only for the head. That shorty holder and drill Aaron showed me may come in handy.
-
Bratton, bored? Stop trolling come Boulder with me instead. risen and all.....
LOL, called out!
And yeah, put some iron in. 40 Hawks is the standard.
-
Bratton, bored? Stop trolling come Boulder with me instead. risen and all.....
I needed a day off from crushing all those 5.7's and 5.8's at the Pinns on Friday.
I am ready to crush tonight.
Mungie, come join us tonight.
-
Yup, I'm back and leading 5.8....setting sights on Wet Kiss at 5.8+.
Squiddo was rattled at the sight of some of the bolt hangers NOT against the rock. It's a serious matter.
Lock up your daughters and hide your sheep ;D
The dynamic duo is baaaaaaack.
And don't worry about those loose hangers - if you ask this guy on the forum he will tell you they are FINE.
-
yep no worries, just make sure the bolt does not spin. But if it is 5.7 then it is probably all good.
-
It's scary!
I think there are more out there than we think.
-
It's scary!
I think there are more out there than we think.
such is life
-
The move at the second bolt to reach the pocket is the obvious one. Maybe 5.8/9?
I swore you and Brad both rapped but we walked off.
They rapped to save time for multiple leads or follows and then cleaned and walked off when they finished. I thought the lower crux was 5.8 and the upper crux at bolt 3 was burly 5.9. clink and Julius both tried to psych me out saying how burly it was and that I might want to TR it before leading. I don't think clink has ever led it. Imo no one should be rating a climb after climbing it on TR ;D
-
if it is 5.7 then it is probably all good.
good thing this advice is free!
-
imo no one should be rating a climb after climbing it on TR
what if it's a TR route? 3.......2..............1.......
-
the rating is the same, tr or lead.
-
what if it's a TR route? 3.......2..............1.......
TR's aren't routes - they are TR's.
the rating is the same, tr or lead.
We'll have to agree to disagree on that one - I hate that saying!
-
TR's aren't routes - they are TR's.
TR's, they are routes, just like a solo is a route. I have done both, either is valid. Even boulder problems are routes, a bit weird but still a route.
-
TR's, they are routes, just like a solo is a route. I have done both, either is valid. Even boulder problems are routes, a bit weird but still a route.
Too bad Brad doesn't believe that latter statement.
clink says it's not a route unless it has a bolt ;D
-
clink has issues....
-
My recent nonbolted nonroute is not named Tongue in Cheek 5.9, it is a merely a figment.
-
is there a lack of wind in the windmills of your mind?
-
well when you rap bolt a route, you need to TR it 1 or 2 times to tape the bolt placements.
Then lead once the bolts are installed.
Lot's of thinking.
-
There is definitely a lack of wind in the windmills of your mind
-
There is definitely a lack of wind in the windmills of your mind
A guy can try.....and the beer is always cold.
-
true the beer is always cold which is quite nice.
-
On Friday, Squiddo and I climbed at the sister's and the upper crust.
Shockingly, we noticed loose bolts, where the hangers "moved".
The bolt is tightened. But the hanger can still wiggle
Even worse, on the 5.9 on the sister that over-looks the monolith.
I had to hand tighten the nut before committing to the move, on TR.
Brad, I thought you torqued your bolts down?
Sadly, no pictures due to Squiddo requiring me to have both hands on the rope...pffft
We need to have a bolt tightening day.
I will start a list in my head.
Factor - on the 5.9 that overlooks the Monolith are you talking about the Love Handles?
The reason I ask is the only 5.9 on The Sisters is Twisted Sister and that definitely does not overlook the Monolith - but the new Love Handles route (Muffin Top) does.
I know clink mentions that route on this thread but the issue still isn't clear to me and clink was also not remebering correctly about who drilled which bolts. clink placed #1 (long double wedge), Julius placed #2 (long 5 pc), I did #3 (long 5 pc). Julius also did #4 (double wedge) and #5 (long 5 pc). I replaced one of the anchor bolts on an earlier rebolting outing with Julius. That was when he got the idea for the route.
I would be surprised to hear that any of those hangers are loose since the route is so new - unless people have been falling on those bolts. Can you tell me exactly which route and exactly which bolt/hanger was loose?
I'd be more than happy to go inspect any problems on my next trip out. Specific info would save me a lot of time.
thanks ;D
-
Yep. I vaguely remember a large nut and noting some loose screws.
-
Yep. I vaguely remember a large and noting some loose screws.
What kind of pin head are you? Aren't you supposed to be on vacation and incommunicado?
-
Hey John- the routes in question aren't the new, I believe he was referring to the routes on the Upper Crust.
-
and that route that you could see the Monolith from.
Not in the guide....no clue of the name. It was the fixe that was loose, say the 2nd bolt. I was scared having to commit, on TR.
-
Hey John- the routes in question aren't the new, I believe he was referring to the routes on the Upper Crust.
and that route that you could see the Monolith from.
Not in the guide....no clue of the name. It was the fixe that was loose, say the 2nd bolt. I was scared having to commit, on TR.
Okay - there is a clear conflict here.
Factor - based on your specificity, intense dedication and intimate knowledge of all things Pinnacles I have concluded that I no longer need to take anything you say on here seriously. I think you may be looking for an excuse to get together and party by the reservoir - we should be able to fixe you up at the MoM. ;D :D ;)
-
John- welcome to my world. It was organ grinder and monkey I believe. Had a wrench been in my pack I was have solved this thread before it entered Brattons mind...
-
John- welcome to my world. It was organ grinder and monkey I believe. Had a wrench been in my pack I was have solved this thread before it entered Brattons mind...
Maybe a monkey wrench is needed - and not for the bolts! ;D :D
-
Bolt was lose. I hand tightened the nut. Next time I will take detailed photos to better document the situation.
-
Bolt was lose. I hand tightened the nut. Next time I will take detailed photos to better document the situation.
Photos are nice - esp if you're Mr Mud ;D
I would prefer the name of the climb and the bolt # if possible.
I always carry an adjustable wrench. I bought my mini Craftsman at OSH for about $10.
A bit pricey but the whole thing is only 4 inches long and it opens big enough to tighten anything up to 5/8".
I just used it Saturday to tighten the screwlinks at the anchor for Shades of Jade.
Brad climbed it and placed the links and chains I gave him - but didn't have a wrench.
I was across the way climbing and working on Humping Lizards with Kat.
He gives me a hard time for carrying extra stuff on my harness - except when he needs it :D