MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: mynameismud on April 01, 2016, 05:13:24 PM
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Climb on and have a good weekend. Post pics if you can. If you do not have a good means send me a pic and I will post it.
Here's to sweat in your eye!
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Thanks Mud. Have a good weekend yourself.
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Don't work to hard.
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make sure to post up some Washington photos. have fun!
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working a bit late tonight but hopefully will get a bit of climbing in tomorrow evening and Sunday. Will post some pics.
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Thanks Mud. The new pinnacle looks cool. Noal took us up there today within sight of it and lunch top rock. Nice spot.
I got to lead Shades of Jade and two routes I hadn't done on Scout Peak - Tracker and Sparky's Merit Badge. Definitely looking forward to going back to do OCD. Also want to check out Pinch and Lynch routes.
Going in from the west side today was a nice change of pace and scenery.
Hope you had some fun today too.
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I managed to get out on Sunday and climb some stuff on the other side of the pass. It is about 2 hours away. Mostly basalt type stuff. I will post pictures later in the week.
The pinnacle is cool, a bit short but kind of cool. Lunch Top is definitely worth hanging out and eating lunch there.
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pics?
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from last weekend
Tieton
(http://www.mudncrud.com/MudGallery/_data/i/upload/2016/04/09/20160409140401-ae137a2a-me.jpg)
Not many people climb over here on the right side.
http://www.mudncrud.com/MudGallery/_data/i/upload/2016/04/09/20160409140344-6de1908e-me.jpg
Crack
(http://www.mudncrud.com/MudGallery/_data/i/upload/2016/04/09/20160409140248-490d9548-me.jpg)
(http://www.mudncrud.com/MudGallery/_data/i/upload/2016/04/09/20160409140149-9ec1b70e-me.jpg)
View
(http://www.mudncrud.com/MudGallery/_data/i/upload/2016/04/09/20160409140227-24234662-me.jpg)
Nice Ride
(http://www.mudncrud.com/MudGallery/_data/i/upload/2016/04/09/20160409135959-b9a42509-me.jpg)
Old Guys
(http://www.mudncrud.com/MudGallery/_data/i/upload/2016/04/09/20160409140039-d64efe35-me.jpg)
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That looks very worthwhile (especially while sitting at home this weekend, watching it rain!).
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I had a hankering for mud until I saw the caddy and donuts! ;D
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That was a really sweet ride.
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Is this possible, to taste the aroma?
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Is this possible, to taste the aroma?
Actually, no-one knows what you're asking, since no-one can see the photo >:(
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since no-one can see the photo
There's a photo in his post?
Nice lichen. Looks like fun.
That's one clean lookin' ride.
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Is this possible, to taste the aroma?
The two senses are intricately linked. You can't taste if you can't smell ;D
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Chalone today. Click the pic. It's like magic.
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Chalone today. Click the pic. It's like magic.
From the picture of the coffee truck it looks like you had plenty of time to gaze out the window - that traffic looks FUN!
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Chalone today. Click the pic. It's like magic.
WE don't "click" pics :P
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Click the pic.
You forgot to add scroll vertically, then horizontally and wish you could see the whole thing all at once.
Wishing won't make it so. Hoping won't make it so.
Wishing won't do.
Hoping won't do.
That leaves you.
You'll have to do...
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WE don't "click" pics :P
+1
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Wishing won't make it so. Hoping won't make it so.
Wishing won't do.
Hoping won't do.
That leaves you.
You'll have to do...
KC, kick him for me.
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You forgot to add scroll vertically, then horizontally and wish you could see the whole thing all at once.
Wishing won't make it so. Hoping won't make it so.
Wishing won't do.
Hoping won't do.
That leaves you.
You'll have to do...
That's too much do-do.
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We finished Up the Buttress on Sunday.
It starts in the corridor below Shades of Jade. Stem up to the first bolt then traverse left. After clipping the second bolt I un-clipped the the first. After a few moves and another bolt transition into the wide crack which protects really well with a 3 Camalot and a 4.5 Camalot ( old style ). use a long sling on the 3rd bolt and cams to reduce rope drag. Above at a stance clip the 4th bolt the move left around the buttress to the 5th bolt. I reached back and un-clipped the 4th bolt and used a long sling on the 5th bolt to reduce rope drag. Climb up the buttress past three bolts to easy climbing and the summit. Shares anchors with Shades of Jade. It is possible to climb just the buttress from the top of the ramp that is the start of Shades to avoid the wide crack down below.
The buttress is fun climbing with good exposure, pretty decent rock and makes for a good photo opportunity if you have a third. Probably 5.9 or 10a something like that. We have started calling the formation The Rock. From the bottom of the corridor to the belay is about 105 feet.
Here's to sweat in your eye.
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Nice job dudes.
How were the FLIES?
I have bites today that are itching on the palms as well as the backs of my hands.
Those little buggers will bite anything that is exposed.
Speaking of bugs - will climbing Up the Buttress leave me feeling buggered? :yesnod: :lol: :ihih:
All that clipping and unclipping in the description made me dizzy. :crazy:
Maybe I better just climb it on TR with Cochran. >:D :yikes: :nono: :madman: :incazzato: :devildevil:
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Flies were not bad at all. There were a few but nothing bad. After Going up the Buttress the first time I could barely walk for three days. We topped out last weekend but did not get the lead until this weekend. I think following clink up the buttress is a good idea
; )
EDIT: Temps were real good up there. At times I had to wear a light jacket and toward the end of the day was looking for my puff.
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After Going up the Buttress the first time I could barely walk for three days. We topped out last weekend but did not get the lead until this weekend. I think following clink up the buttress is a good idea ; )
I don't see a smiley for eyes watering from laughter :lol:
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How were the FLIES?
I have bites today that are itching on the palms as well as the backs of my hands.
There is a great advantage to climbing with partner who smells like horseshit. Most of the flies will swarm them.
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Brad was doubting the flies actually existed since it was so windy and cool this weekend.
He and I ran around Friday and confirmed a bunch of new routes.
We did a scary but easy new free solo on Bachelor's Buttress.
Only one of my routes went on the reject list. ;D
Brad will undoubtedly be adding a long list of new routes to the sticky soon.
I'm going to cook up a sticky for rejects just for laughs.
We saw the mud mobile in its reserved spot Saturday.
The old man and the bird man are out cranking through some hard stuff today while we take a day of rest :yesnod:
I can't help but think that plan A might have gotten chucked for plan B so a certain someone could enjoy being in status for a week or two... :idea: Of course I could always go find something new to free solo or rope solo mid week :frown2: >:D :devildevil:
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It was cool up top and no flies. Good to hear you had a good day.
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It was cool up top and no flies. Good to hear you had a good day.
What did you guys work on? Alien? Piggyback Relay Race? Green with Envy?
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I was right about the root canal. I was also pleasantly surprised when they could do it as part of my 9:00 a.m. appointment today (no waiting, no anticipation, get the damn thing over with).
Maybe now the throbbing pain and/or the ibuprofen will stop.
And no, we didn't chuck Plan A yesterday for Plan B. I'm again "out of status" and will be for a long time to come. I'll console myself by climbing on nice granite close to home for a while.
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I'll console myself by climbing on nice granite close to home for a while.
It's all wet and covered in snow. Maybe we should try for Joshua Tree? ;)
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It's all wet and covered in snow. Maybe we should try for Joshua Tree? ;)
Seriously? - because Pinns will be perfect again this coming weekend. :incazzato: :eeeek: :devildevil:
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I was right about the root canal. (no waiting, no anticipation, get the damn thing over with).
Maybe now the throbbing pain and/or the ibuprofen will stop.
And no, we didn't chuck Plan A yesterday.
Excellent...well the no more throbbing pain part - root canals are no fun!
Glad you guys got to climb some hard stuff.
We had a nice relaxing day and a walk on the beach.
I consoled myself with the choss in all my pockets :smilewinkgrin:
It's a tough row to hoe but someone has to do it :yesnod: :ihih: :lol:
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What did you guys work on? Alien? Piggyback Relay Race? Green with Envy?
nelkins gave me an update - word of the day - snafu ;D
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snaf you too! >:D
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yep. Our day was a bit unproductive it seems our management plan was not fully vetted. Was a really nice day to just kind of hang out and at least act like we were climbing.
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yep. Our day was a bit unproductive it seems our management plan was not fully vetted. Was a really nice day to just kind of hang out and at least act like we were climbing.
2x left footed shoes again?
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yep. Our day was a bit unproductive it seems our management plan was not fully vetted. Was a really nice day to just kind of hang out and at least act like we were climbing.
The essence.
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Seriously?
Seriously? How often is this site serious? :)
Actually the forecast looks dry and sunny, but with some crisp temps. Good day for a south facing granite crag or three.
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Was a really nice day to just kind of hang out and at least act like we were climbing.
I think we have perfected the "one guy bolts while the belayer takes a nap" method of new routing.
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I think we have perfected the "one guy bolts while the belayer takes a nap" method of new routing.
Is there any other kind?
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Seriously? How often is this site serious? Smiley
I feel a serious phase coming on.
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I think we have perfected the "one guy bolts while the belayer takes a nap" method of new routing.
clink and I did that on Sunday the 15th. I should have taken a picture of him napping in the grass.
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Was a really nice day to just kind of hang out and at least act like we were climbing.
Sport Climber....
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It's amazing how nice it is with no pain and no ibuprofen ;)
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We topped out this pinnacle. I am tentatively calling it Sunshine Pinnacle and the route Dreaming of Sunshine. Has some fun climbing on it but it turned out to be harder than anticipated. Currently is 5.10 A0.
(http://www.mudncrud.com/MudGallery/_data/i/upload/2016/05/30/20160530134511-1a2b65ec-me.jpg)
(http://www.mudncrud.com/MudGallery/_data/i/upload/2016/05/30/20160530134503-119469c4-me.jpg)
Looking up.
(http://www.mudncrud.com/MudGallery/_data/i/upload/2016/05/30/20160530140544-c4d54dd9-me.jpg)
approximate line
(http://www.mudncrud.com/MudGallery/_data/i/upload/2016/05/30/20160530141508-72113ea0-me.png)
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We topped out this pinnacle. I am tentatively calling it Sunshine Pinnacle and the route Dreaming of Sunshine. Has some fun climbing on it but it turned out to be harder than anticipated. Currently is 5.10 A0.
Looking up.
Slim Shady?
Looks easy from here :crazy: :frown2: :yesnod: :lol:
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We topped out this pinnacle. I am tentatively calling it Sunshine Pinnacle and the route Dreaming of Sunshine. Has some fun climbing on it but it turned out to be harder than anticipated. Currently is 5.10 A0.
Congrats! Looks like a fun line, and the name sounds great. What sub-grade do you think it is? How many bolts are on the line?
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8 bolts ( I need to count ), 12 something
Will most likely add a bolt or two and make it a 10 / A1 line. We probably should have gone for the easy line up the arête to the right of this line. In my defense, I do not have a solid history of going for the sure thing.
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:)
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In my defense, I do not have a solid history of going for the sure thing.
Actually, you don't need any defense because you don't have a solid history of going for the sure thing....
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Will most likely add a bolt or two and make it a 10 / A1 line. We probably should have gone for the easy line up the arête to the right of this line. In my defense, I do not have a solid history of going for the sure thing.
Don't fret. I can help clear up the A0 this weekend.
;D
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Already went 5.10 A0, but some people may find the A0 a bit more A1.
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Whoa, 5.12. Is that somewhere in the top section that it gets that stiff?
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top section is 10 and kind of cool. It is the middle section that blanks out. We went straight up over a bulge which is very hard to free.
It is possible to continue the line or a line out up and left ( where the current line starts to get hard ) with a continuous line of knobs on pretty good rock. This I think would be a really good line but it is slightly over hanging and sustained and smallish holds. Probably hard 12 due to the sustained nature. But there is absolutely no way I can do that at this time. I can do short bursts of hard stuff but this is long. If someone sent it I think it would be one of the better routes of that grade, but then who knows. I know looking at it I cannot help but think it looks really cool, it would be a burner for sure. It has motivated me to eat less and work out a bit every morning ( that has to be some kind of statement ).
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Interesting. So you think the line you guys did is 5.10 AO/A1, and 5.12 if freed. And you think there might be another 5.12 line going up and left?
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That is correct. The line we are doing is just a couple of really hard moves due to a lack of good holds. The other line has better holds but is long and sustained. It might be a bit harder than 12, hard to tell without climbing it.
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work it.
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So you make it A0 by putting 1 0r 2 of these
(http://www.adventureplaysystems.com/cart/images/products/LG-accessories_Climbing-Holds.jpg)
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It was 98 when we left the parking lot around 1:00.
Mercifully cool cloud cover with a predicted 104.
We climbed around the Sisters with Rosie and a couple newbs :o 8)
Got them both on the sharp end repeatedly - neither had ever led outside before ::)
66 when we pulled back in the beach hut with a thick marine layer around 3:00.
Supposed to take an old friend from Ohio (who now lives in LaLa land) out for a jaunt tomorrow ;D
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It was nowhere near that hot up here yesterday, but even at 6,000 feet elevation it was warm. After the hike out my (orange) shirt was totally soaked with sweat.
And just 10 days ago we were warming the house in the evening by having fires in the downstairs wood stove.
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F4 shall be fcommunicated if he even brings plastic to the parking lot.
We can through bolt a pair of the highest red holds on his head for horns.
He ideas are of the >:D
:)
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It was 103 in the parking lot around 2:30.
We still had fun by getting started early (7:30 through the west gate).
We took Dave up Photographer's Delight for a photo op and his first climbing experience.
It was getting pretty toasty by the time we got on the Sponge Left Side.
We came down, took a break, had more water, snacks and rest and decided to finish on Kermit.
I had to go back down because the rock was literally cooking my behind whilst sitting on the summit.
Dave and Kat weren't far behind me.
We marched back down through the Sea of Hades, had a beer and headed for some Mexican food in Soledad.
The word of the day was Cook 8)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50265092406_7f9867356e_z.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50265092451_6d9920499f_z.jpg)
Dave on the Sponge 5.6**
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dWYl3VYLtSsF-azq7b4lR6872g4vjeW13-JfeGowrzR6QwdN3O2hCFBV25_C53t_Y4GpNofRxBbT_JFSq5HnJNH35lPr3XOpUccsMi8_X7PKUZmw5DYylMEyPlWp8nATt8VVZ4u7cuYwj_dZuTWFhD=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
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The word of the day was Cook 8)
That explains oh-so-much.
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What? Tough room. It would be the ultimate sin for Mr. Mudd.
Pinns today? Nah, Monterey was just perfect. The sun came out at 1 and the wind kicked up to cool us down.
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Hats off to the crazy climbers at the Pinnacles today (including me). My car thermometer showed 102 oF at the upper Bear Gulch parking lot at 2 pm. I saw some other climbers on The First Sister and also on Sinbad.
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How could you not take it up the buttress!!!??? With shades of jade? If you say photo ops I believe up the buttress can give photos delight a run for the money.
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btw GO WARRIORS!!!!!!!!
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Warriors crushed.
Great pic on Photographers.
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Steve freed the line on the left side of Voyeur Wall (TR), got the onsite of Sticky Monkey. There are bees in the crack to the right of Cuttin the Rug.
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Steve freed the line on the left side of Voyeur Wall (TR),.
Invalid without a (TR) rating that Steve must have coughed up. We know the FFA rating may differ, duffer. What did he think of Sticky Monkey's rating and stariness?
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he thought Sticky Monkey was well rated. He was thinking the far left line was 11b or so. He liked the first pitch and summit of OCD Overdrive.
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Nice.
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Nice about the route on the left side of Voyeur Wall. 5.11b... I'm guessing Steve thought the crux was up high? Does the line still need anchor chains above the crux?
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Yes, the crux is the upper bulge and chains are still needed.
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We climbed Prairie Falcon 5.6 on the north side of Pioneer Pinnacle today, 3 bolts, 50ft. Nice climbing and easier than it looked, thanks to numerous big holds. JC laughed his way through what ended up being a fairly easy move onto a block.
We also FATR'd Fledgling 5.8 and Imprint 5.9 which is consistent with my goal of two FATRs each trip. KC did all three with no falls. I broke a hold on the second crux of Imprint which almost cost me the onsight. >:D
Beauty day with a cool wind keeping the temps down.
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Took me a minute to post this - my eyes were watering from laughing :lol:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3f5LTxI8Xes6T8pc8zvkB5_UQFr0F8ElPu_PYApj34HWFMv27_6vrXT7tfu5lO4DDV9lbjM14mJ1ciPFcKocWxTTIF_ffoPB-J835AzfiRft8civH8RwrF2wyT0uWnF6OmEFJxYDSLkkNZuLg04Ymc4=w800-h600-no?authuser=0)
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JC at bolt 3.
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Nice naming of the routes! Was there a particular reason, i.e. birds flying overhead, etc.?
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No birds but a conversation that included birds, pioneer's and Modern Family.
When I got home our resident bird of prey was more vocal than usual. I wonder what was up?
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Nice naming of the routes! Was there a particular reason, i.e. birds flying overhead, etc.?
Gavin - we wanted something Pioneerish and I first said Prairie Dog but we thought Falcon was much more appropriate. I also proposed Homesteader since we already have Pioneer Pinnacle and Squatter's Rights. Go West didn't work since it's the north end. Got any cool bat pictures for us? ;D