MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: MUCCI on April 11, 2016, 12:34:12 PM
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Just wanted to open up a project on the right side of Casino Rock to the willing..
Right water chute, I think fabrizio and I placed 2 bolts to get established in the overhanging water chute.
Above looked like burly steep climbing, but possible stances.
I hook drilled all of the bolts on Royal flush above the 1st. So maybe somebody better than I can get some stances on the steeper project.
Climbing was 5.8 so far and a long way to go.
I would like to hear if anybody decides to finish it, it is a proud line, on a proud formation.
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Pic of said chute?
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(http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn12/joshmucci/CAsino_zpsyhfnydqf.jpg) (http://s300.photobucket.com/user/joshmucci/media/CAsino_zpsyhfnydqf.jpg.html)
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Nice, Josh... Sounds good, and I'm interested. How did the rock quality seem, as far as you two got?
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Just wanted to open up a project on the right side of Casino Rock to the willing..
Right water chute, I think fabrizio and I placed 2 bolts to get established in the overhanging water chute.
Above looked like burly steep climbing, but possible stances.
I hook drilled all of the bolts on Royal flush above the 1st. So maybe somebody better than I can get some stances on the steeper project.
Climbing was 5.8 so far and a long way to go.
I would like to hear if anybody decides to finish it, it is a proud line, on a proud formation.
Josh, for clarity, is this the same chute shown in the '07 topo as having one "off route" bolt?
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Brad- Yes, I think we discussed that lone hangerless bolt together at some point. After I drilled #2, I bouldered up above it, and got a look at the stud on the left side of the chute about 30+ feet up. Now, I am not the best climber, but if somebody punched it all the way up to the bolt, stanced it and climbed off on gear, Whoa.
Gavin-up through the 1st bolt is pretty cool, and a bit of a loose mantle to get on the ledge protected by some descent cams.
2nd bolt I stood as tall as possible and drilled on the overhanging portion, then bouldered the chute/1/2 chimney thing up a bit. Downclimbing was scary.
The rock was pretty good, much like Royal Flush, but will need the once over. Lot of good looking holds above the 2nd bolt.
Totally worthy climb.
We were gonna name it "Casino Royal" after the james bond movie.
Somebody has to establish that line. With plenty of FA'ists around right now, I hope a huge party attacks that project. Great base to hang out at too.
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Brad- Yes, I think we discussed that lone hangerless bolt together at some point. After I drilled #2, I bouldered up above it, and got a look at the stud on the left side of the chute about 30+ feet up. Now, I am not the best climber, but if somebody punched it all the way up to the bolt, stanced it and climbed off on gear, Whoa.
Gavin-up through the 1st bolt is pretty cool, and a bit of a loose mantle to get on the ledge protected by some descent cams.
2nd bolt I stood as tall as possible and drilled on the overhanging portion, then bouldered the chute/1/2 chimney thing up a bit. Downclimbing was scary.
The rock was pretty good, much like Royal Flush, but will need the once over. Lot of good looking holds above the 2nd bolt.
Totally worthy climb.
We were gonna name it "Casino Royal" after the james bond movie.
Somebody has to establish that line. With plenty of FA'ists around right now, I hope a huge party attacks that project. Great base to hang out at too.
So your two bolts followed by 30 feet to an old stud, correct? Yeah, who knows how the hell it got there. Sounds like you were making a nice line into "sumpin." Too bad you're not around to finish it :-[
Hey... I just saw those words "old stud." Maybe this program will change those words to "Mr. Mud" since we all know that that's him in a nutshell and this site messes it up whenever one tries to put him on it ::)
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did you call me an old dud again?
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did you call me an old dud again?
No, not at all. I was describing you the person; you must have mistaken that for a discussion of your route rating "skills."
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Can you access the route from the top?
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Dropping in from above would be possible from the route to the right, or fixing a line through the corridor.
Both Royal Flush and the project end in huge chimney/ corridors.
I was going to try and finish up and left on the project to the prow.
It looked like a 3/8ths compression bolt )threaded stud of the 80's variety. Taking the hanger if they did the route would be weird based on the history of the routes on the formation.
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Old stump.
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Old frump
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Floats like bowling ball.
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80s stud bolt
Sounds Gagner Belizzi ish. But free project now.
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I would guess one of the original authors of routes on the wall might know, some of those bolts are the same.
Then again, I was just zooming in on the camera and made a guess as to the type of bolt.
Maybe some 80's honnold climbed up, drilled the bolt, topped out and had his second remove the hanger....
Haahah
Or It was placed by the film crew..
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Vertical Limit film crew 4lyfe!
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Mungie, we can just rap-bolt it then.
The bottom 10ft we can use axle grease to keep Gavin off.