MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: clink on September 12, 2016, 04:24:04 PM
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Plankton.
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Youth.
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Plankton. Is that a Vinasa or Hatha pose?
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Heart of Crud
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He does a ton of 'em.
We don’t know too many people who get excited about doing planks. Generally, you stare down your timer as the minute (or more) runs down. And while we’re being candid, let’s just come out and say it: Planks destroy your abs. For a pretty basic isometric exercise, planks strengthen your entire body—they make your core pop, strengthen your lower back, and build your shoulders.
Better yet, you don’t need any equipment, and you can amp up the intensity by widening your stance and bracing yourself with your hands instead of your forearms and elbows. See for yourself. Check out what Keith Scott, A.T.C., C.S.C.S., a strength coach in Medford, N.J., recommends for conquering the plank before you attempt any heavy weight exercise. You’ll be better for it, guaranteed.
The 8 Best Ways To Switch Up Your Plank >>>
Get into pushup position on the floor.
Now bend your elbows 90 degrees and rest your weight on your forearms. Your elbows should be directly beneath your shoulders, and your body should form a straight line from your head to your feet. Hold the position for as long as you can. Your goal should be to hold it for two minutes.
Get Six-Pack Abs in Six Weeks >>>
"The plank helps develop strength in the core, shoulders, arms, and glutes,"
says Scott, making it a great prerequisite for lifting heavy weights or playing intense sports. Even though you aren't moving or lifting weight, you have to constantly squeeze your abs to hold the position—most people can't last 30 seconds on their first attempt.
Ways to improve your plank time
The longer you can hold the plank, the more resilient your lower back will be to injury, and the better your abs will look once you burn the fat off them. Follow these tips for longer plank times.
How to Get a Magazine Worthy Six-Pack >>>
Practice: Perform planks several times each day, trying to hold the position a little longer each time.
Use body-weight exercises: Pushups and pullups will improve your core strength.
Squat and deadlift: Guys who are strong in these specific lifts find planks are no problem.
HOLD IT
If you don't have the core strength yet to do a regular plank, you can build up to it by doing a bent-knee plank. If you can hold a plank for more than two minutes with ease, you can move on to these tougher variations.
Lift one leg up. By simply raising one leg in the air, you dramatically increase the demand on your core to fight your body's natural urge to rotate.
Lift one arm up. Again, your body will want to fall to one side. Don't let it!
Might get a worthy of the front cover of the next guidebook six-pack. Note; make sure Brad isn't in the background or his legs may detract(distract?).
It's almost Mud season for all you seasonals.
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It's almost Mud season for all you seasonals.
You do realize it's September and September is wall season, aka granite season, and then there is October and November when the rock is tacky as fuk! Time to send! Projects get done in October!
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Planks are for pirates.
You-Knee-Sigh-Kill
Cut the seasonal crap.
I was out yesterday on the west side and it was downright cold in the morning and fabulous all day.
High was only 83 with strong breezes and I was in the shade a lot of the time.
Hangin' off the wall replacing old crap with shiny new stainless.
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Good morning Pinnacles.
Not a soul or a formation in sight :confused:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3efDlF8Rh6LbGHktocXlLDpgGiBFORRTVr5X4gzZix7Ch9bcRvRMQPIPY_N8Nn1i0JxKjDymQSaYUCvIsFDVUWBmkgfBgkPQTRq-SQEAPYSgMfV3xmRipwQVGLKWymswOgmb0XCrJe4PA5lm1Yn16c0=w834-h625-no?authuser=0)
Be back again soon. Don’t you listen to what those silly “it” people say :lol: :biggrin:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fR6mhCcy8TEfknr3vpDPtblnU8P8cNjqhTxrxK9FE3MGoSuwYaInLxUQd9QAWFpKUay-iX1-DRrFRZ0201Po42BKQQYaYtwvwCkI3FUUuqKMuBIU2yaFQ1DeGrE1q19Y1cz9ZDi2rBpwoaMi_4YtXy=w834-h625-no?authuser=0)
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Beautiful, Thank you
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It was gorgeous again today.
The fledgling left the nest and imprinted on me and clink :lol: :ihih:
JC drills the lone bolt on Fledgling 5.7
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50264125498_d3b6720e0e_z.jpg)
clink drills bolt 1 on Imprint 5.8*
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50264779811_bb0b18aa6d_z.jpg)
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Hooky with Cookie. Nice work today JC.
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cool
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cool
Mud - I tried to get clink to sling some supplementary knobs but he seemed really hung up on that one :lol: :biggrin: :thumbup:
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Mud, you will like JC's bolts extra spacing on those two routes, perfect. He was balls to the wall.
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Mud, you will like JC's bolts extra spacing on those two routes, perfect. He was balls to the wall.
heh heh - he said "balls"
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Someday I will have to get out there
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Someday I will have to get out there
Someday soon I hope :biggrin:
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Noal, in his wanderings, found Alacia, Gavin and myself at the Old Man. After climbing a 5.7 that is rated 5.6 and then a 5.10c that is rated 5.10b, Gavin started talking about changing the rating of the 5.11b to 5.11a. Go figure.
It felt cool on the north side of the Old Man with the nice breeze blowing. Damn those are great routes.
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5.5
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It's a small park.
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There was a heat advisory today in SJ.
and yet, I knew you guys were going out.
I swam in a cold pool, drank Iced White Cran Cosmo's (out of a Dickey's BBQ cup... with a straw), watched Suicide Squad in an air conditioned theatre, had breakfast at Hobee's where the coffee is hot and the air conditioning is on, then napped on the air conditioned comfort of my couch, and made Turkey Tacos for dinner tonight while sipping cold drinks.
When do ya'll go in for your psyche-evals?
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After climbing a 5.10c that is rated 5.10b
What if the smallest crystal is a jug and you're never worried about putting too much weight on a knob? ;)
(http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab1/HSKillometer/IMG_6650_zpsdjsmaknq.jpg)
I guess we missed you by 24 hours. Maybe next time...
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It's a small park.
...after all.
while sipping cold drinks.
i grabbed a cold beer from the Pinns store and gave myself a selfpsyche-eval while drinking it. Prognosis was good. Waldo would agree.
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Dr. Waldo? That guys just as quackers as you are. ;)
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What if the smallest crystal is a jug and you're never worried about putting too much weight on a knob? Wink
But I was worried on the 10b, which was rated 10a until I broke the second crux jug the day we finished it.
I enjoy giving Brad a hard time about the reserved ratings trend of routes of late. :) We have continued it in his absence. Full value ratings, but not the ridiculous Mud/Bates sandbags.
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I never sandbag
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I never sandbag
Let me fix that for you.
I never sandbag more than 6 letter grades.
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Noal, in his wanderings, found Alacia, Gavin and myself at the Old Man. After climbing a 5.7 that is rated 5.6 and then a 5.10c that is rated 5.10b, Gavin started talking about changing the rating of the 5.11b to 5.11a. Go figure.
It felt cool on the north side of the Old Man with the nice breeze blowing. Damn those are great routes.
Rerating climbs after you have climbed them repeatedly and wired all the moves is horseshite.
Rate them as if you were climbing the route onsight.
Go to Granny's Kitchen if you want some fun climbs with accurate ratings :yesnod: :lol: :ihih:
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Some climbers have better ability than others to "read" routes. Some also have more endurance to hang out. If you have both....
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Some climbers have better ability than others to "read" routes. Some also have more endurance to hang out. If you have both....
Not to mention the conditions and having a good or bad day. The first time I climbed Mud Diamond was after we had finished a long day bolting it and I was also carrying all my stuff - felt like 5.8. Next time I climbed it with no extra gear, on a feeling good day, I thought it might only be 5.6. I climbed it a third time and settled on 5.7.
I've been doing well reading routes and hanging out lately but that streak my be over after languishing in the east for a week :crazy: :crazy:
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Speaking of languishing - where the heck is Brad? Is he in hiding with F4?
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"Rerating climbs after you have climbed them repeatedly and wired all the moves is horseshite.
Rate them as if you were climbing the route onsight."
Does onsight really reflect the technical difficulty, or just whether or not you know about a single key hold that is critical to make it go at the grade that is otherwise totally invisible? A one trick pony is not a rating maker.
I argue no, it doesn't in that case. Sure, when you can see all the holds rating for the onsight is fine, since it's the same at the technical and endurance difficulty, unless you are legally blind.
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Does onsight really reflect the technical difficulty, or just whether or not you know about a single key hold that is critical to make it go at the grade that is otherwise totally invisible? A one trick pony is not a rating maker.
I argue no, it doesn't in that case. Sure, when you can see all the holds rating for the onsight is fine, since it's the same at the technical and endurance difficulty, unless you are legally blind.
Agreed. For instance there is a hidden hold that is crucial for the crux on Imprint. Without that hold, the climb feels two grades harder. Sometimes it is a series of well wired moves, like the 10a we did with you at Dwarves. I would have never seen that without your demo. Cracklin Rosie also has some hidden stuff that can't be found until you have committed into the thin zone. I guess there is no perfect way to rate. There are too many variables. Just do the best you can and let people feedback. I just don't happen to agree with some of evolution that happened at The Old Man.
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Mud is the outside signifier on the bell curve for 'consensus' ratings. Easily dropped as an outlier when the delta is way outside the average for the curve. Useful to set a min/max, but rarely good for refining the data set. Further, the data set is only as good as the sample set. So if its all a bunch of curmudgeons, we get curmudgeon ratings.
Fortunately I'm solo and rate all my climbs at 5.13b to 5.16a, so I don't have this problem.
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Speaking of languishing - where the heck is Brad?
He's around; he just got back though from another four days in the high country (couldn't resist - my trip with Katie got me all fired up to get some more High Sierra time before the snow flies). Solo backpack trip in some of the clearest conditions I can recall.
I summited Molo Mountain (intricate class three from this point of view):
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8493/29871152821_c687fb3764_c.jpg)
From there, on the far horizon, as clear as can be, God knows how many miles away across all of Yosemite and then some, Mount Ritter and Banner Peak (in the Minarets!), Mount Lyle (with the glacier), and Mounts McClure and Ansel Adams (named from left to right).
And that's Emigrant Meadow Lake in the foreground (I spent night two there - windy but it had such a great feel). I watched a bald eagle fly by as I sipped my morning coffee:
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7753/29871153651_7d94d225c0_c.jpg)
Of course my four-leggers joined me. The only thing that could have made it better was having one or more of my two-leggers with me too, or, even one or two of you from here on Mudn'Crud ;)
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5735/29871149901_8d895cb259_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8090/29871149421_a9c7d73067_c.jpg)
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I guess there is no perfect way to rate.
Actually there are two perfect ways:
1. Let Dennis rate a route. Flip a coin to determine whether he rated it two or three letter grades too high; adjust accordingly.
2. Better yet, don't worry your pretty little brain. Sit back, smile, and point me at the routes, let me lead them, and then accept my opinion as the perfect, always accurate, fifth class rating.
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heh, this explains why email is unanswered. at least it was a worthy cause.
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AAaaaaacccccckkkkkkkkkkk
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Whatever the rating Dementia is a three course meal. The lower section is the appetizer, move on to the crux entree, then the upper, easier and stellar headwall for dessert. Or as Gavin said "That is f-ing good!"
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Thanks for all the calls checking in on us with the fire nearby. We had 6 offers of places to stay. :)
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Thanks for all the calls checking in on us with the fire nearby. We had 6 offers of places to stay. :)
Jeez, first Caleb and now you? How close to you is it?
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4 or 5 miles and heading away(east) at this point.
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4 or 5 miles and heading away(east) at this point.
It's the scariest part of Autumn. Every year I trim the forest back a little more and hope for one good, wetting storm by mid-September.
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Yeah clink I was going to offer you my pops place in Santa Cruz.
Best breakfast in town.
Let us know if they kick you out.
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Yeah clink I was going to offer you my pops place in Santa Cruz.
Best breakfast in town.
Let us know if they kick you out.
Thanks F4. Glad to know you are kicking!
The weather is looking favorable today.
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Living the dream with Squiddo in silicone valley.
Work & Crabby boys.
Could be worse.