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Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: Uncle Stinky on January 05, 2017, 09:35:14 AM

Title: Climbing Friday the 6th
Post by: Uncle Stinky on January 05, 2017, 09:35:14 AM
Any input on if the rocks will be dry enough to climb Friday?
Title: Re: Climbing Friday the 6th
Post by: clink on January 05, 2017, 10:12:36 AM

 Iffy. South facing climbs with air flow may be the ticket.
Title: Re: Climbing Friday the 6th
Post by: NOAL on January 05, 2017, 10:28:59 AM
No rain for tonight so you should be able to find something dry. Just have to be flexible. Any particular formation in mind? High Peaks is a good bet.
Title: Re: Climbing Friday the 6th
Post by: JC w KC redux on January 05, 2017, 01:16:24 PM

No rain yesterday afternoon or overnight even though the forecast was 60%.
Sun is out strong right now but NWS still says 20% chance of showers.
Nothing showing up on radar.
Tomorrow is supposed to be sunny but forecasts have been a crap shoot lately.
Looks promising for anything not covered in moss or lichen or in a water chute.
No Country for Old Men might be dry  :biggrin:
Title: Re: Climbing Friday the 6th
Post by: mungeclimber on January 05, 2017, 03:45:09 PM
I've driven 5 hours with a 20%.
Title: Re: Climbing Friday the 6th
Post by: JC w KC redux on January 05, 2017, 04:46:20 PM

Considering the weekend forecast, I'm going tomorrow.
Title: Re: Climbing Friday the 6th
Post by: JC w KC redux on January 05, 2017, 04:58:48 PM
Considering the weekend forecast, I'm going tomorrow.

I used my spiffy new angle grinder today to modify a Cat's Paw and it is hungry for some Star Dryvin nails.
I'll try to get a couple new summits and do some rebolting before Noah comes back to the crud.
Mungie may want to move his canoe to the canyon temporarily.
Title: Re: Climbing Friday the 6th
Post by: Brad Young on January 05, 2017, 06:57:31 PM

Considering the weekend forecast, I'm going tomorrow.


Me too.

But I face a question that you do not face: Which is better, climbing with my second favorite geologist and the two best, smartest, prettiest dogs in the world, or climbing with my favorite geologist and his (much, much) better half?

Title: Re: Climbing Friday the 6th
Post by: mungeclimber on January 05, 2017, 07:11:24 PM
Can u canoe a canoe in a canyon carefully Cook?

Burning turns in am, then gotta help put in windows.

Title: Re: Climbing Friday the 6th
Post by: F4? on January 07, 2017, 10:25:07 AM
was it good?

It never rains at the Pinnalces.
Title: Re: Climbing Friday the 6th
Post by: mungeclimber on January 07, 2017, 01:02:25 PM
Conditions at base are not good. Got worse today. Windows got sealed up in time though.

Today, I'm on the verge of building a climbing wall in the garage.
Title: Re: Climbing Friday the 6th
Post by: Uncle Stinky on January 07, 2017, 05:29:47 PM
Ended up going skiing, a great day, instead of climbing .   My kids last day before she flew back to Boise for school.  I would have preferred the rock. 
Title: Re: Climbing Friday the 6th
Post by: Brad Young on January 07, 2017, 07:50:52 PM

It never rains at the Pinnalces.


I climbed a pumpy 5.10d and had and have no elbow pain at all! (I did it on toprope - I was still nervous, but for no apparent reason).
Title: Re: Climbing Friday the 6th
Post by: Gavin on January 08, 2017, 07:23:27 AM
I climbed a pumpy 5.10d and had and have no elbow pain at all! (I did it on toprope - I was still nervous, but for no apparent reason).


Nice, Brad. I got out to Discovery Wall on Friday and climbed some of my "regulars" - Buffalo Soldier, Broken Arrow, Here Comes The Judge, Verdict, etc. Good to get a bit of climbing in before the rain resettled. It was wet and windy on Saturday, and we're supposed to get dumped on today. Hopefully the creeks will be flowing by tomorrow!
Title: Re: Climbing Friday the 6th
Post by: clink on January 08, 2017, 07:50:06 AM
Quote
(I did it on toprope - I was still nervous, but for no apparent reason).

 Reasons?:
The rope might break.
The anchor may fail.
Your harness is getting small and you were afraid of flipping over in a slightly top heavy condition.
Your belayer is in grade-school and/or distracted.
The route was a horizontal bombay chimney.
It was your first time climbing at a gym.
Pumpy was your nickname during your awkward years as a Young climber, and it brought back an embarrassing memory.
Title: Re: Climbing Friday the 6th
Post by: clink on January 08, 2017, 07:51:58 AM
Quote
Today, I'm on the verge of building a climbing wall in the garage.

 Me too.
Title: Re: Climbing Friday the 6th
Post by: Brad Young on January 08, 2017, 09:01:19 AM

...reasons?


I haven't done any hard climbing since my tendon/muscle tear happened in September. Now I have. And I'm recovered from the hurt.
Title: Re: Climbing Friday the 6th
Post by: JC w KC redux on January 08, 2017, 09:18:17 AM
Reasons?:
The rope might break.
The anchor may fail.
Your harness is getting small and you were afraid of flipping over in a slightly top heavy condition.
Your belayer is in grade-school and/or distracted.
The route was a horizontal bombay chimney.
It was your first time climbing at a gym.
Pumpy was your nickname during your awkward years as a Young climber, and it brought back an embarrassing memory.

 :lol: :lol: :lol:
Thank goodness I read this before breakfast or there would be food spit all over the room.
I had to wait a few minutes to go get my food. I had blurry vision until my eyes stopped watering.
Title: Re: Climbing Friday the 6th
Post by: clink on January 08, 2017, 09:18:48 AM
 I strained my elbow 2 weeks ago. I hope it is minor. It has  allowed me thoughts of compassion and empathy for your injury that I would have been not capable of, to quite this degree, otherwise.  :)
Title: Re: Climbing Friday the 6th
Post by: mungeclimber on January 08, 2017, 10:54:10 AM
Whats a lumbago? And why does it always hurt in the old comedies?
Title: Re: Climbing Friday the 6th
Post by: clink on January 08, 2017, 11:10:59 AM
Quote
Low back pain
Also called: lumbago
ABOUT
SYMPTOMS
TREATMENTS
A common, painful condition affecting the lower portion of the spine.
Very common
More than 3 million US cases per year
Usually self-treatable
Usually self-diagnosable
Lab tests or imaging rarely required
Low back pain is caused by injury to a muscle (strain) or ligament (sprain). Common causes include improper lifting, poor posture, lack of regular exercise, fracture, ruptured disk, or arthritis.
Often, the only symptom is pain in the lower back.
Most low back pain goes away on its own in two to four weeks. Physical therapy and pain relievers can help. A few cases may require surgery.
Ages affected
0-2   Very rare
3-5   Rare
6-13   Common
14-18   Common
19-40   Very common
41-60   Very common
60+   Very common
Consult a doctor for medical advice
Sources: Mayo Clinic and others. Learn more

Title: Re: Climbing Friday the 6th
Post by: clink on January 08, 2017, 11:18:14 AM

 There is also a Blue Lumbago climbing plant
Scavenger hunt photo for blue flowers. "This was the only blue flower in my garden at the moment! It is a creeper and covers the side of the garage, looks really pretty ."
Title: Re: Climbing Friday the 6th
Post by: JC w KC redux on January 08, 2017, 11:56:15 AM
There is also a Blue Lumbago climbing plant
Scavenger hunt photo for blue flowers. "This was the only blue flower in my garden at the moment! It is a creeper and covers the side of the garage, looks really pretty ."

Screw that! Let's see pics of the slide and the downed trees and power lines!
Title: Re: Climbing Friday the 6th
Post by: F4? on January 08, 2017, 12:17:55 PM
I bet the creek is ready to be ran....
Title: Re: Climbing Friday the 6th
Post by: clink on January 08, 2017, 12:24:42 PM
 JC, we are loosing ground faster than we are gaining it .PG&E is grounding lines so Davey Tree can remove three trees. More trees have fallen between us and those. We may be cut off for a whole as the worst is yet to come.

 You could run up a couple rescue double cheeseburgers to us (like you were a cross between Rambo and Groot)

.
Title: Re: Climbing Friday the 6th
Post by: JC w KC redux on January 08, 2017, 01:30:11 PM
JC, we are loosing ground faster than we are gaining it .PG&E is grounding lines so Davey Tree can remove three trees. More trees have fallen between us and those. We may be cut off for a whole as the worst is yet to come.

You could run up a couple rescue double cheeseburgers to us (like you were a cross between Rambo and Groot)

That's a bummer dude.
Don't loosen the ground - it is already loose enough from the saturation  :yikes:
More rain on top of saturated soils means more movement.
I would not want to work for PG&E right now - or tree services for that matter - hopefully they will get you guys squared away soon. It looks like you meant to say cut off for a whole week?

Don't look for me coming up the canyon on my uni.
Hope you have a stash of ground beef so you don't have to resort to worms  :yikes: :puke:

 
Title: Re: Climbing Friday the 6th
Post by: mungeclimber on January 08, 2017, 04:07:12 PM
Got power back in a few hours up the hill. Had to resort to hand washing the dishes.
Title: Re: Climbing Friday the 6th
Post by: clink on January 08, 2017, 07:10:01 PM
 Automated message says not to expect power back until 4pm tomorrow. I did grab a stash of fresh ground beef last trip up the mountain. Pan fried burgers with provolone over spinach, and a side of zucchini. Generator is humming along. Chili for tomorrow's eats.
 I also bought 4 sheets of 3/4 ply for a garage climbing wall(before Munge posted about building one, great minds think like me) :). Might even start it in the morning if the roads are closed.
 
Title: Re: Climbing Friday the 6th
Post by: Uncle Stinky on January 08, 2017, 07:37:03 PM
A friend of mine is a crane operator who works with PGE sometimes and told me that different companies have contracts to clear 100,000 trees just along their lines.   This was before the last storm. 




























e
Title: Re: Climbing Friday the 6th
Post by: mungeclimber on January 08, 2017, 08:53:55 PM

 I also bought 4 sheets of 3/4 ply for a garage climbing wall(before Munge posted about building one, great minds think like me) :). Might even start it in the morning if the roads are closed.
 

I'm going to try for something like this, but may make the kick board a little taller to better utilize for low sit starts. Just depends on how high the ceiling joists are.

http://www.backcountry.com/explore/how-to-build-your-own-basement-bouldering-wall-in-10-steps
Title: Re: Climbing Friday the 6th
Post by: mynameismud on January 08, 2017, 09:22:18 PM
kick board is a must.  When drilling for T nuts it was recommended to me not to use a grid and I agree with this.  Putting the holds in a grid locks the locations in to much.  Do not draw any kind of grid.  Just drill plenty of holes.
Title: Re: Climbing Friday the 6th
Post by: mungeclimber on January 08, 2017, 09:38:46 PM
kick board is a must.  When drilling for T nuts it was recommended to me not to use a grid and I agree with this.  Putting the holds in a grid locks the locations in to much.  Do not draw any kind of grid.  Just drill plenty of holes.

The grid isn't the issue, overly spacing between holes is the issue.  Randomizing is compensating for the perception of 'locked in' positions when the spacing is too far apart to begin with.

Title: Re: Climbing Friday the 6th
Post by: mynameismud on January 08, 2017, 10:14:41 PM
I have done grid and no grid.  I seriously recommend no grid and to many holes.
Title: Re: Climbing Friday the 6th
Post by: clink on January 09, 2017, 12:48:25 AM
 The statistician and the philosopher have spoken and I have heard. OK on kick board. Any input on 45 degrees or two sections with one only slightly more than vertical?
Title: Re: Climbing Friday the 6th
Post by: mynameismud on January 09, 2017, 08:00:20 AM
If you have the room, varying angles are nice.  45 is steep.  I have never set one up this steep but I have done sessions on two different walls that were this steep.  I made my wall about 5 degrees over hanging so I could train with smaller holds.  The HIT strip method is to use a steep wall and then use shorter sessions.

I also recommend a hang board with systematic training.  This seems to be the board and book of choice https://www.trainingbeta.com/mark-and-mike-anderson-guide-to-hangboard-training/ 

Title: Re: Climbing Friday the 6th
Post by: clink on January 09, 2017, 08:21:16 AM
Thanks
Title: Re: Climbing Friday the 6th
Post by: mungeclimber on January 09, 2017, 09:12:14 AM
Steep with big holds to start and I mean jugs.

If already 12 feet wide then ok to add more angles.

If a full 45 is too much, scale it back a little. Vertical walls that dont get used are a dime a dozen.  Seriously.  You want fun with friends that want to come over and session.

Sessions get boring AF on vert walls and it forces crimping. Don't train for crimps. Recipe for tendon issues.
Title: Re: Climbing Friday the 6th
Post by: clink on January 09, 2017, 09:43:12 AM
Quote
If a full 45 is too much, scale it back a little. Vertical walls that dont get used are a dime a dozen.  Seriously.  You want fun with friends that want to come over and session.

 Thanks Munge and Mud. I have a little gable triangle that may get incorporated for a couple more feet of height. i am also trying to get some holds for Martha to carefully try to stretch on and do one move off the floor alternating bringing a foot up for starters. You should see her smile when she has her hands on a hold. The pulley pulldown set-up that Jim M. suggested has been very helpful to her for gaining strength without compressing disks.
Title: Re: Climbing Friday the 6th
Post by: mungeclimber on January 09, 2017, 01:15:58 PM
JC, we are loosing ground faster than we are gaining it .PG&E is grounding lines so Davey Tree can remove three trees. More trees have fallen between us and those. We may be cut off for a whole as the worst is yet to come.

 You could run up a couple rescue double cheeseburgers to us (like you were a cross between Rambo and Groot)

.

Its official. Roads are toast...
http://www.santacruzsentinel.com/general-news/20170109/mudslides-close-highway-9-and-17-in-wake-of-storm


Title: Re: Climbing Friday the 6th
Post by: mungeclimber on January 09, 2017, 09:12:28 PM
more wall beta...

http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/pdf/How-to-Build-a-Home-Bouldering-Wall.pdf
Title: Re: Climbing Friday the 6th
Post by: clink on January 09, 2017, 09:49:14 PM
 I drilled the ply panels today. I used the random, overkill grid pattern as suggested. The layout decision has me stymied for now. That last link is helpful. Moved the fridge and stirred the junk pile.
Title: Re: Climbing Friday the 6th
Post by: F4? on January 09, 2017, 11:27:19 PM
Mungie, remember when mr mud had his climbing wall over his bed?

Soft landing
Title: Re: Climbing Friday the 6th
Post by: clink on January 10, 2017, 07:41:05 AM
Quote
A pulley system, like The Rock Prodigy Pulley Kit, is essential for effective hangboard training.

Weights: Several five- and ten-pound plates or dumbbells available for “adding to” or “subtracting from” your body weight.

 Several may be off by several. :)

 Hangboardom. How do you keep from going nuts with boredom during a three minute wait between sets?
Mud, JC, Noal, Jim, Gavin, Munge, or anyone else have suggestions for enhancing solo workout regimes?
Title: Re: Climbing Friday the 6th
Post by: mynameismud on January 10, 2017, 08:04:15 AM
I was doing the Rock Prodigy hang board routine for a little while.  Pushups or burpies.  The three minutes will go fast.  The prodigy routine I think is the fastest way to finger strength.  I am trying to find a good place in my house to put mine. 

I really like the corner setup in the pdf Munge provided.  Two different angles, steep and not so steep.

The wall above the bed was cool, I did many laps to failure.
Title: Re: Climbing Friday the 6th
Post by: clink on January 10, 2017, 10:30:14 AM
Quote
the bed was cool, I did many laps to failure.

I bet.
Title: Re: Climbing Friday the 6th
Post by: mungeclimber on January 10, 2017, 11:47:32 AM
  suggestions for enhancing solo workout regimes?

lots of old climbing magazines laying around. Plenty of water to drink.

Make lists of things you need to do later.

Mobile phone.
Title: Re: Climbing Friday the 6th
Post by: clink on January 10, 2017, 12:15:48 PM
Quote
lots of old climbing magazines laying around. Plenty of water to drink.

Make lists of things you need to do later.

Mobile phone.

  How 'bout ideas for an imbecile? I have a confession to make, I have a years subscription R&I that I haven't read. I did start reading Brad's guide after taking a year to read Roper's and Richard's guides. 

 Martha just OK'd the lower angle panel (7 degrees over vertical) location that allows access to the dryer.

 
Title: Re: Climbing Friday the 6th
Post by: mynameismud on January 10, 2017, 02:01:18 PM
awesome
Title: Re: Climbing Friday the 6th
Post by: NOAL on January 10, 2017, 03:48:28 PM
Needlepoint.
Title: Re: Climbing Friday the 6th
Post by: JC w KC redux on January 12, 2017, 10:12:38 PM

Friday the 13th.
Title: Re: Climbing Friday the 6th
Post by: Brad Young on January 12, 2017, 10:20:05 PM

Friday the 13th.


E.S.A.D.

I have to be in court at 8:30 tomorrow morning. That means in a suit. And there's eight inches of snow outside and, where that is cleared, it's sheets of ice. I hate it when I have to actually work for a living  >:D

Title: Re: Climbing Friday the 6th
Post by: clink on January 13, 2017, 08:16:26 AM
Quote
That means in a suit.

 Does it have those stylish patches on the elbows?

Title: Re: Climbing Friday the 6th
Post by: clink on January 13, 2017, 08:19:48 AM

 Martha asked if the suits come with short shorts. ;D
Title: Re: Climbing Friday the 6th
Post by: JC w KC redux on January 13, 2017, 09:25:27 AM
E.S.A.D.
I have to be in court at 8:30 tomorrow morning. That means in a suit. And there's eight inches of snow outside and, where that is cleared, it's sheets of ice. I hate it when I have to actually work for a living  >:D

Poor baby. I feel so bad for you out making my yearly salary in a day.

Does it have those stylish patches on the elbows?

Martha asked if the suits come with short shorts. ;D

 Touché on both counts  :lol: :lol: :lol:
Title: Re: Climbing Friday the 6th
Post by: Brad Young on January 13, 2017, 10:02:02 AM

Poor baby. I feel so bad for you out making my yearly salary in a day.


I survived. And, shocker of shockers, there was only one dumb ass driving down the hill today (she went flashing by as I waited to turn onto the highway, on roads that are sheets of ice). Everyone else was showing good driving skill.

And J.C., don't start ridiculous rumors. I get paid minimum wage, no more.
Title: Re: Climbing Friday the 6th
Post by: JC w KC redux on January 13, 2017, 11:53:26 AM
I survived. And, shocker of shockers, there was only one dumb ass driving down the hill today (she went flashing by as I waited to turn onto the highway, on roads that are sheets of ice). Everyone else was showing good driving skill.

And J.C., don't start ridiculous rumors. I get paid minimum wage, no more.


What is ridiculous is how quickly this post was made after supposedly being in court at 8:30!
I don't believe you ever even left the house. Invalid without pictures.
Title: Re: Climbing Friday the 6th
Post by: Brad Young on January 13, 2017, 11:57:44 AM

What is ridiculous is how quickly this post was made after supposedly being in court at 8:30!
I don't believe you ever even left the house. Invalid without pictures.


And what kind of court appearance do you suppose I was attending that I couldn't be back in my office within an hour? Thankfully you have no clue whatsoever about Case Management Conferences. May you always be totally, totally uninvolved and thus unaware of how civil lawsuits work  ;)   ;)

(And P.S. you will never see a photo of me in a suit. Or in court.)
Title: Re: Climbing Friday the 6th
Post by: Jim on January 13, 2017, 12:19:38 PM
Ah but I've seen you in a suit.  The picture is forever embedded in my memory.
Title: Re: Climbing Friday the 6th
Post by: Brad Young on January 13, 2017, 12:50:55 PM

Ah but I've seen you in a suit.  The picture is forever embedded in my memory.


Sorry  ::)
Title: Re: Climbing Friday the 6th
Post by: clink on January 13, 2017, 01:41:16 PM
Quote
(And P.S. you will never see a photo of me in a suit. Or in court.)

 Those must be your shower days.

 I have a good imagination and cannot picture you in a suit.
Title: Re: Climbing Friday the 6th
Post by: F4? on January 13, 2017, 04:20:37 PM
I have no imagination and I can't imagine him in a suit.