MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: Zay on April 03, 2018, 08:24:07 PM
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Was climbing Rock Around The Clock today and witnessed a tremendous whipper on the Flumes. I think the dude missed a bolt and blew it fairly close to the anchor, I havent climbed this particular one yet.
The first pic was taken about 4 minutes before he fell. I thought, "Wow, what a great photo op, i hope i can share this with them later."
He climbed up at least another 5-10 feet.
Suddenly, i heard a shifting sound as i looked down to my follower and my eyes bounced up to watch this dude just drop and drop. I had all the time in the world to think, "Holy crap hes still falling. Somethings wrong. Hes going to deck. Im about to call 911."
Then he stopped. He hung there for a long time but based off thr german dialogue between him and the belayer it quickly became apparent that he was okay. After staring in disbelief for a while, I thought "shit i have to document this." so out came the phone and i took a secind shot exactly where he fell to.
I cant bring myself to acceot that this may be well over 60 feet. again, he climbed uo significantly higher than the first picture before falling.
A good time to reflect...
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I think JC may have replaced that bolt very recently.
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...to watch this dude just drop and drop. I had all the time in the world to think, "Holy crap hes still falling. Somethings wrong.
I held a fall like that once. 110 feet. That was my exact thought process. I don't ever want to see one again. I don't even want to read about one again. The goddamn hair's standing up on the back of my neck from reading that (still).
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Glad he was okay.
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Shit, that's a long fall. With a fall that long I'm surprised the belayer didn't get sucked through the first draw!
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Man seems like more than a single bolt miss. Not much room left before the final crater
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Looking at the topo, it appears there is supposed to be a bolt *within the water streak. Its really hard to see from these pics, but I swear his ultimate protection appeared to have been well outside the streak, rather on its left side. I may very well be wrong in my attempt to identify his pro's location, and suggest that my guess be taken as pure speculation.
His belayer was definitely level, if not slightly higher than him by the time the fall was arrested. The second pic was taken after he had lowered himself.
The unnerving thing for me was that I had seriously just climbed Gary and Phyllis to approach Rock A.T. Clock, and I completely missed the last two bolts. Even with the topo in my hand, the glaring sun and thick lichen caused me only to climb higher and higher until I was like, "oh shit, the anchor!" I knew I was missing bolts, but downclimbing choss seemed scarier than continuing. As I was belaying the follower I was thinking "shit, a fall would have been ugly."
Another few minutes and I'm watching this crap. Sheesh.
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I did replace all but the last bolt on that climb. The last bolt had already been replaced and I thought it was quite a run from there to the anchor - maybe 25 or 30 feet - but the climb is 5.9 and the last run doesn't look hard. Hard to say what happened. More curious to me is the amount of people sitting at the base. I have never seen anyone on any of those climbs.
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The last bolt is in the streak but it is in a depression and is impossible to see from below. You can't see it until you come up over a lip. Whoever replaced it painted it white and actually moved the location down a little making it even harder to see. The climber may have gotten off route and missed it. There is a line of holds out left that could sucker someone into going the wrong way. I posted the pics below on the rebolting suggestion thread after I finished the work.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4749/26154822968_9d9b089b03_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/FRdiDA)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4632/39995402872_b8eeba4c23_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23WfTRA)
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JC, that is very valuable beta. ive been planning on climbing that face for a while. i had actually planned on climbing the left chimney after RATC but was pretty baked from the sun. also my first time seeing anyone on that side of the flumes i was amazed.
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JC, that is very valuable beta. ive been planning on climbing that face for a while. i had actually planned on climbing the left chimney after RATC but was pretty baked from the sun. also my first time seeing anyone on that side of the flumes i was amazed.
I still have not gotten back there to replace that chimney bolt.
I haven't had a chance to climb the other stuff either (the 5.9's) since I rebolted them.
I was trying to decide what to do today. Your post made the decision easy.
I just packed up my rebolting gear and am headed to the east side.
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Good to hear he is ok, that is a huge fall.
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Zay - do you have any higher resolution images? Are those people or just stuff over in the grassy area to the right?
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i dont, these are the highest rez photos i have. there was a group of at least four or five people on the grassy knoll.
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there was a group of at least four or five people on the grassy knoll.
So that is what happened
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i dont, these are the highest rez photos i have. there was a group of at least four or five people on the grassy knoll.
I thought so. KC wasn't so sure. I have to wonder if they thought they were climbing at the main Flumes - or maybe that area was busy? So many folks I talk to don't have the guidebook and are trying to work from Mtn Proj or the info the park gives them. There has been a huge increase in visitors this week with Spring Break.
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I cant believe how many people i run into that try to navigate by mountainproject alone. Last year i was on The Rookie and a group of Brittish kids came down from the hill between The Sheapard and The Game Show asked us, "Hey is that the Citadel?" ...pointing at The Sheapard... "Mountain project told us to go right at the (blablabla)."
Ive met lots of people since who wander around with their phones asking, "which route is that?"
There's this really good book out there...
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So that is what happened
;D lol funny one
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There's this really good book out there...
But like, oh my God, it costs like as much as five Starbucks lattes!
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But like, oh my God, it costs like as much as five Starbucks lattes!
It’s sooooo heavy too
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Just rip the pages you need out of the copies at the climbing gym. To cover up the ripping sound yell out a random dumb gym climber word. NICE!!! ALLEZ!!!GIT IT!!!SEND IT BRO!!!! Before you know it you can have your very own econo-select guide.
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Venti size guide.
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Just rip the pages you need out of the copies at the climbing gym. To cover up the ripping sound yell out a random dumb gym climber word. NICE!!! ALLEZ!!!GIT IT!!!SEND IT BRO!!!! Before you know it you can have your very own econo-select guide.
Lol or better, visit Salsa B&B and after the big guy goes night night, borrow some pages from his clean guide....
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Lol or better, visit Salsa B&B and after the big guy goes night night, borrow some pages from his clean guide....
You've got a death wish?
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borrow some pages from his clean guide...
Be sure and grab the ones in the back with all the filled in boxes. Good for Kleenex, TP, tinder to start campfire etc.
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If times get tough, we could roast animals (or even Brad if he passes in good condition) over Brad's guidebook collection.
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^^^
Times are gonna get tough alright. For all three of you miscreants....
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^^^
Times are gonna get tough alright. For all three of you miscreants....
Lol miss you all. Banter and curmudgeon hand in hand
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i tell you what, if you split the book up into three different smaller books... most importantly the high peaks... i would absolutely buy all three... or at least just the high peaks so i could go wander around up there a few ounces lighter :lol:
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Can you make the new Pinnacles guide pocket sized? To do this you might need to make it like one of those tiny bibles. You know the kind with the really super thin pages? So easy to rip out, no need to fold or ball up to fit in pocket, and double as rolling papers.
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i tell you what, if you split the book up into three different smaller books...
No.
(Talk to the Chance Brothers.)
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...Good for Kleenex, TP...
I'm actually glad now to have paid extra for such good quality paper :P
It's not absorbent, and it sure isn't soft ::)
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Can you make the new Pinnacles guide pocket sized? To do this you might need to make it like one of those tiny bibles. You know the kind with the really super thin pages? So easy to rip out, no need to fold or ball up to fit in pocket, and double as rolling papers.
Oh it will be pocket sized. Guaranteed.
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Rough and tough.
Oh it will be pocket sized. Guaranteed.
One of them app things?
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Noal, that is a brilliant request...pocket sized guide.
The current guide is too heavy.
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Rough and tough.
One of them app things?
Of course not.
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I like it. Three pocket size volumes, all with a different cover pic of Brad in his short shorts (so you can easily tell them apart) and call it the package deal.
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:)
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Talk about thread drift! Let’s get back to the Gigantic Fall...
Looks like maybe a 5 on a scale of 10.
It’s got some distance but no flipping, smacking or special sound effects.
So how can he get that to that elusive 10?
Artistic tumbling
Blood curdling scream (or multi-screams within distance fallen for extra points)
Ground fall with no injuries (injuries lose points)
How many pieces fail (failed bolts for extra points)
Broken rope (cut rope for extra)
...
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So how can he get that to that elusive 10?
Dislodged rock on self/belayer. Extra points if both are hit.
Voided bowels/bladder. Extra points for contact with belayer
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Puncture wound from drill bit. Double points if it remains stuck in deeply enough for pics.
If a bat bite causes the fall. Double points if you contract rabies.
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Land in poison oak bush at base. Bonus points if you are using John Cook's rope.
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Bonus points if you are using John Cook's rope.
Now that's just cruel. Besides, everyone knows that if you drag John's rope through poison oak - boy - you just bought it.
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He needs to get a tucked body suit.
The plus side, he would lose some weight due to dehydration.
Man I cannot imagine being that sensitive to the oak.
I used to get it all the time. At one point the nurse said...wash your bedding and cloths.
That nipped the full body rash.
Now I get it almost every weeek I go riding!
:P
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i got a face full of PO on my way up to elephant rock a few days ago. no reaction. ill count my blessings.
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Well years ago, I took a full branch in the chest on the muchshitty decent.
I thought I had escaped..
A few days later my wife is scratching and scratching.
I took a look and she had gotten the PO rash...I guess from me.
But being from the east coast and later San Diego she had no clue what the rash was.
Later when working on the eastern front at the grotto, we would wash and change clothes before driving home.
I am all for eating a leaf a day...who is with me?
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Bigger books means better training. :)
Holy sheep dip that's a big fall! Thx for posting zay!
Gary and Phyllis is mostly solid rock from what I remember. Up and left, then way up and right, then slightly left again? They were good but old bolts when I did it.
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Gary and Phyllis is great, move over to bills bad bolts. Decent down rock around the clock.
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J.C. beat the hell out of me this week.
I'm tired and I'm going to bed now.
And I forgot the butter, so I'm having buttered toast for breakfast.
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J.C. beat the hell out of me this week.
That noise you heard was likely a penny dropping and not JC's shoulder popping. ;D
Hope you guys are back in good working order soon.
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That noise you heard was likely a penny dropping and not JC's shoulder popping. ;D
Hope you guys are back in good working order soon.
That noise was a lot louder than a penny dropping. I thought he'd dropped a grapefruit sized rock about 15 feet to the ground. And it was his shoulder making the noise, not a rock.
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J.C. beat the hell out of me this week.
I'm tired and I'm going to bed now.
And I forgot the butter, so I'm having buttered toast for breakfast.
Dispelling any mystery behind the incident. I placed that first bolt partially standing on the big knob that broke (the left one). Most of my weight was on my right foot and I had two knobs slung for security. I got back up there after Brad was done with the route to try and simulate my stance but it was a little misleading since that hold was gone. With what's left now and where the bolt is, it seemed like I was standing on the right knob with my left foot but as we can see - not true.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/894/26540188707_c92a1d0a11_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Grgpst)
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What is the largest fall that has ever been survived at pinnacles?
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I do not know but that guy might be it. Jeepers, that was huge
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What is the largest fall that has ever been survived at pinnacles?
From grace or holds?
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Why Adam, it depends....I have a 2x logged that were at least 20-30ft.
The 1st was a grounder into bushes (yes they do soften the landing).
The 2nd, luckily wasn't a grounder, as I was caught before I was going to ground. At least 20ft (hard to tell as I did a few cartwheels.
Then there was one on Pereguine. Only 10ft, but clean.
My buddy took a nice 15 footer on POD after the crux..too tired to clip, pulled up to clip and was in the air....swoosh.
Maybe Mr. Mud as a few?
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One not so fine winter day in 1978 I decided to climb the rappel face on Elephant Rock. The initial crack took a #5 stopper something more than fifteen feet up. I climbed well past it and rain began. I decided to move right and try for an escape. My right foot slipped off a wet hold and down I went. I ended up a foot or so off the gully rocks - unharmed. Bill (yes, Bill of Bill's Bad Bolts) was several feet higher than I was, complaining bitterly about scrapes and bruises acquired when I dragged him up the Elephant.
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How about Splatter Matt?
Some lady rapping off Monolith last year.
Seems like I heard a story about Jim at Balconies (Conduit?) taking a long one and landing upside down with his head between two big lodestones.
I know Brad had a story about someone taking a huge fall too.
I'm pretty sure Larry said someone dropped him 80 feet after he fell on Lava Falls and he hit the ground.
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On my 1st major fall....I was sliding down the slab....all the while Munge was yelling JUMP, JUMP into the bushes!!!!
The worst part....I shredded my Sporthill running tights.
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As I recall, Crile and Chad Carvey were climbing Lava Falls and Chad ran out of gear, skipped the last couple bolts. He had one biner left upon arriving at the anchor. The bolt out to the right looked better so he stepped on a large cobble to traverse over. The cobble gave way, striking Crile in the back. Chad took a huge fall.
Crile got a helicopter ride out and a long time healing from breaking the transverse process on 5 of his vertebrae. He fully recovered. Chad faded out of climbing.
Here is what the NAA Report had to say.
FALL ON ROCK, FALLING ROCK
California, Pinnacles National Monument
On May 8, 1982, Chad Carvey (18) and his unde, Crile Carvey (33), were attempting a route up a black waterchute on the Balconies when this accident occurred. They later learned that the name of the climb was “Lava Falls.” At the time, they only knew it was rated 5.8–5.10 and had first been climbed a few weeks previously.
They selected a belay stance about ten meters away and to the right of the base of the climb. Chad took the first lead while Crile belayed, using a Sticht plate clipped to his harness in front; Crile also tied into a huge tree. Chad climbed through some steep 5.9 rock and made steady progress. When he was approximately 40 meters up the wall, Crile advised him that there was only ten meters of rope left. At this point, Chad was on a resting stance, facing a difficult section. As he was tired, low on carabiners and saw no double-bolted belay stance, he expressed his desire to come down for lunch. As Crile was ready to climb, he encouraged Chad to either figure out a way to belay him up to Chad’s position or go a bit higher and look around. After discussing the options, Chad agreed to move up. As he did so, he spotted a good belay stance a few meters above. In order to give him more rope to work with, Crile moved his belay spot a few meters closer to the wall. In response to Chad’s request, Crile fed the rope to him with a good amount of slack, to help him deal with the enormous rope drag. As Chad moved into the next hard section, Crile was careful not to pull him off his tenuous holds by feeding line in pace with his swift motion.
It was at this point that Chad fell. It took Crile several moments to realize that he was falling and to apply the brakes. His fall was slowed mostly by the friction from the running belays. He had at least eight points of protection, mostly runners clipped to bolts. At one point, the placement consisted of a single carabiner clipped to a bolt in such a way that the rope dragged quite directly on the rock. Chad fell about ten meters until he was able to grab a sling and clip in.
The cause of the fall was the sudden dislodging of a foothold. Chad had tested the large block before committing himself to it but found, as he moved off of it and applied some outward pressure, that he was suddenly minus a foothold.
The basketball-size block ended its 40-meter flight on the right side of Crile’s lower back, breaking five ribs and five transverse processes and slightly injuring a kidney. Not wishing to compound a possible back injury, he remained on his back until he was evacuated by NPS staff, on-the-scene volunteers and a MAST helicopter from Fort Ord. (Source: Crile Harvey, letter to the U.S. editor)
Analysis
Sometimes, even though you feel you have done everything thoroughly, this kind of unexpected event happens. Looking at a block which you are about to grab or step on, knowing the kind of rock and its probable cleavage, testing it by the usual means of hitting it, pushing and pulling on it, and exerting pressure on it from different angles, especially if you are concerned about it, help to increase the margin of safety. (Source: J. Williamson)
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I'm pretty sure Larry said someone dropped him 80 feet after he fell on Lava Falls and he hit the ground.
Larry was following the first pitch and fell in that last overhanging section. His belayer lost control of the rope and he decked. 85ft? 90ft? It earned him an evacuation, a stay in the hospital and a world of pain. Nothing was broken, however.
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holy crap guys these stories are gnarly. Brad's account of Splatter Matt's history was pretty crazy too...
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I think my only broken hold fall was on Flumes (with Brad). Adam's Apple. Left hand knob/edge peeled, IIRC. May still have it.
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Larry’s fall does not sound pleasant...the route has a low angle section that would mess you up. Then to deck?
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May still have it.
You do. You're young, in love, go to the West Side Mud.
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Spatter Matt was a bit wild. He was at the ledge, saw a large load-stone and and asked if it looked good. We all said no, it looked sketch. At that point Matt said he was going for it even though we continued to object. He launched and the load-stone erupted. Matt tried to grab something but to no avail. He came down the wall hit his foot pitched over backward smacked his head and shot toward the ground mostly head first. About 4 feet from the ground he came to a stop and the force of the fall spun him in a circle. The force of the spin caused the head wound to open and a stream of blood followed the arc of his spin. During the fall Jeff who was belaying took as many steps backward as he could. I manage to grab his shoulder after about a rotation and a half. I know he was about 4 feet off the ground because fearing spinal injury I was supporting his upper body with my arms straight out. His lower body was still being supported by the rope in his harness and his body was mostly level. Stacy quickly came around and took over control of Matt and did an assessment. Matt walked out on his own and Jeff carried his and Matt's pack. I was amazed Matt could walk because I saw his knee buckle when his foot hit the wall and it was not pretty. It was not a long fall but it was unsettling.
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You do. You're young, in love, go to the West Side Mud.
LOL, thx for the vote of confidence and the chuckle.
May still have the hand hold that broke too. :)