MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: djh650 on November 30, 2018, 08:50:12 AM
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With all the rain, would an ascent 12/2 be out of the question for old original?
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It would be wet for sure. Stay roped up! Maybe wait until later in the day (have you done it before?).
I see thats a Sunday... you cant do Monday?
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The three 5.5 rated portions should be getting whatever sun there is.
Temps aren't predicted to be high enough for a lot of evap.(55)
Also depends on how comfortable you are on exposed, potentially slimy, sparsely protected (but easy) crud.
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While the main parts of the route may dry, I suspect that the descent chimney, which has rappel bolts at the stations, will be wet, slippery, and possibly running water. I would also very cautious about the fourth class traverse beyond the meadow, which is the last roped section. This will be very wet, very slippery, and the protection on this horizontal traverse is mostly small bushes that are not very strong. Also, I think the downclimb/rappel just before arriving to the Middle Tower Notch will be damp or wet. This is north facing. I would not down climb it after any moisture and if you rappel it, you must rappel from a single bolt, which is not recommended.
If you had to do this on Sunday, I would suggest doing "Bullseye" to "Derringer" to join "Old Original" start of second pitch. Then descend "The Hideout" at end of third pitch. Not as good as the entire "Old Original", but keeps you in the drier sections on Machete Ridge.
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^^^^
Nice recommendation dude.
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The lead bolts on "Bullseye" should be bomber since I replaced them in December 2017.
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Is Old Original open? Below is what Gavin had mentioned back in July.
He mentioned that there was a dedicated biologist watching them....
Hey gang -
Just a heads-up that climbing advisories have (finally) been lifted for the year.
Note that the mandatory closures at Machete (affecting the southwest, south, and east faces of Machete including Old Original) are still in effect, due to ongoing condor nesting efforts..
Let me know if you have any questions, and thanks for the support!
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Paging Gavin regarding Machete Ridge being open to climbing. I also want to know because I need to patch a bolt hole on the Machete east face.
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I'd stay out of the descent chimney. Out and back from the south is fun, especially if you've gone up via Bullseye/Derringer. A rappel at the first gendarme (The Hideout chute) will get you off painlessly.
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I think Gavin may be out of range to answer this question. Check the thread and site.
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ive been watching the bird advisoriew, as of like a week ago, everything is open
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Sorry for the late reply, everyone... I've been on vacation and out of the country for the last month!
There are no climbing closures in effect for the rest of the year. All routes on Machete are open for climbing. I updated the closures thread as well to reflect this.
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Great to hear!
Sorry for the scare, but as Gavin once said....if you happened to stumble into a closed area for the Condors....you'd be seen and busted.
Best Old original decent....2x ropes or 1 rope (I prefer 1 and I am lazy). Back track from the last summit pinnacle to the top of Rock O R Clock.
2x ropes, bam at the bench... then over to the West Face, 1 rap and you are down near Corona.1 Rope and you and your partner get to get close on the mid pitch rap (do-able).
If there was a topo of the route, I'd draw it for you, but then again Crayon drawings don't scan well.
The only dicey part is down climing to the top anchors of Rock O R Clock.
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Sorry for the late reply, everyone... I've been on vacation and out of the country for the last month!
There are no climbing closures in effect for the rest of the year. All routes on Machete are open for climbing. I updated the closures thread as well to reflect this.
I got an email from the Condor Crew with the "All Clear" while we were out of town and off the grid and completely spaced on posting when we got home a week later. Am I fired?
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Am I fired?
Slaves can't be fired, only emancipated. And you're not.
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Them birds are no dummies...I bet they left for Big Sur.
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With all the rain, would an ascent 12/2 be out of the question for old original?
When the asphalt starts to dry on the road, some of the rock is dry enough to climb.
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Slaves can't be fired, only emancipated. And you're not.
You are anticipated. :)
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You are anticipated. :)
What did you call me?! :madmax: :incazzato: :frown2: :crazy:
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for those interested, old original was totally good to go today (two days after rain). a hair bit damp in some places, but otherwise all good.
was glad to have roped up for the fourth class traverse on thr descent...
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You are anticipated. :)
That's like constipated, right?
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for those interested, old original was totally good to go today (two days after rain). a hair bit damp in some places, but otherwise all good.
was glad to have roped up for the fourth class traverse on thr descent...
Hey, Zay. I veered left on the way home, to Cooks; the weather report looks promising enough that we're going to try the first half of tomorrow.
Nice to have seen you two (I assumed that was Meagan, but didn't hear confirmation when I called her name).
Driving over here, I thought I remembered having updated the topo to the part of The Balconies that we were on top of (above Full Circle). And I did, I worked last January to bring it current to our last efforts then (it shows three bolts on the ongoing third pitch). The topo is a Photoshop document and I don't have a way to post it while here. Do you have Photoshop on your computer, I could get you a copy? Or you could just wait until some new book comes out....
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need some help tomorrow? turns out im free
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need some help tomorrow? turns out im free
Tomorrow will be pure guidebook research and very little climbing. Also, although I don't know about J.C. and K.C., I'll be leaving by 2:00 (probably leaving then due to weather, but even if the rain is delayed, I'll be heading home to see my beloved girls who I miss, starting of course with LVS).
So if you're bored and have low expectations, sure, join us. East Side parking at 8:45? We'll try not to let you die of boredom ::)
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need some help tomorrow? turns out im free
We need help every day...
and nuthin' is free :frown2: :crying: :arf:
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We need help every day...
and nuthin' is free :frown2: :crying: :arf:
Yeah, maybe we need to talk more about this "free" thing. No charge at all, right? I ain't paying for help by some youngster....
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lol see u in the morning
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Nice. Please bring a 70 meter rope, 16 quickdraws, double cams to six inches, a copy of the 2007 guidebook, a notepad, two cameras, extra water, a tag line, and a bottle of Geritol. That will be your share of the load.
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your forgot to mention the properly aged 20 yr whiskey
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lol see u in the morning
Not if we see you first :yesnod: :biggrin: :lol: :devildevil:
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your forgot to mention the properly aged 20 yr whiskey
Sounds legit.
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Funky groove brother.
I remember that song.
I was just thinking about you dude...wondering where/how you've been. :idea: :biggrin:
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I made it home in time for dinner (just a few rain showers as I drove).
And on the plate? For the first time in at least two years, Vicki served a side-dish of Stouffer's spinach souffle. The Cooks will get it ::)
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From the Rebolting Master List
727 – Digger – most bolts replaced – B Young 2008
Brad will get it