MudNCrud Forums

Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: Runout on February 14, 2019, 11:58:02 AM

Title: Anyone doing bolt replacements on Monday (2/18)?
Post by: Runout on February 14, 2019, 11:58:02 AM
I've got the day off. Been interested in trying my hand at a new line at the Pinns since about 1993. But since I've only placed bolts in granite, I thought it might be best to learn a thing or two about Pinnacle bolts first. (I have no immediate plans for new routes BTW, just longer term aspirations.)

Would anyone be interested in popping out old 1/4" gems and replacing with fat stainless steel?
Title: Re: Anyone doing bolt replacements on Monday (2/18)?
Post by: JC w KC redux on February 14, 2019, 12:24:03 PM
Tony - I added a bunch of info to this thread Zay started - http://www.mudncrud.com/forums/index.php?topic=2732.0

Most bolts I have replaced at Pinns are not quarter-inchers. Three-eighths Star dryvins and split shafts are much more common.
That being said, quarter-inchers either pop out easily with a tuning fork or break off in the hole (they are usually very old and thoroughly rusted).

Things I have my eye on rebolting have to be led to be worked on and it is way too wet for the foreseeable future.

Do you have a specific project in mind and a strategy?
Title: Re: Anyone doing bolt replacements on Monday (2/18)?
Post by: Runout on February 19, 2019, 07:05:49 PM
Thanks so much for the link. Great resource.

There is a water chute up on Citadel that might be accessible with a long traverse off Power Tools. Or it may very well be too much rotten rock in between to get to it. Given that rock is a limited resource, I don't want to botch it. Until I've placed a few bolts (maybe replacements), I'm going to leave it alone.
Title: Re: Anyone doing bolt replacements on Monday (2/18)?
Post by: waldo on February 21, 2019, 09:22:42 AM
Holmgren long ago gave me permission to try a variation on Piece of Ewe. A ramp/crack leads climber's right from the first pitch belay and may connect with a subsidiary chute. It will be a long time before Goat is either open or dry, but I'd welcome interested parties when it is.