MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Everywhere Else => Topic started by: Jim on May 04, 2019, 05:06:09 PM
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It's so beautiful!
Last week (April 22) Wendy's cousin was over with a friend for three days of spring skiing at Mammoth Mountain. Since they were on their way home after Wednesday (Washington for Neil and SJ for Rob) I was able to easily convince my brother on Thursday to head up out back on Wheeler Crest for a new FA we scoped a week or two earlier. He has not been climbing much so I got the pleasure of taking the sharp end.
The route starts just right of the dark intrusion and we were able to get one and a half pitches in the first day.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47698801292_8024b24a8b_b.jpg)
P1 goes up excellent white granite with swirly diorite. Starts with a stout mantle, then up a thin crack (5.10c) and a right arching crack (5 bolts and gear) to a belay at 35 meters.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47698803162_b31141b2e3_b.jpg)
Moving through the overhang
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47751478231_da659c0c06_b.jpg)
Almost to the arching crack
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/33874478228_f28e5b65d0_b.jpg)
We went back again on Tuesday to finish the remaining pitches and unfortunately I was too focused on the sharp end to take any photos. But I'll be back there again soon for pictures - it was so good!
Yet to be named
P1 5.10c 5 bolts 35m to two bolt ring anchor
P2 5.10a 5 bolts 33m to two bolt ring anchor
P3 5.10a 6 bolts 34m to two bolt ring anchor
P4 5.5 gear to two bolt ring anchor
rack single cams .1 to 2" plus extra .4 and .5 cam, plus a small tapered stopper or two
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That’s awesome. Fun. How was the approach?
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...the initial crack is flaring and not gear worthy
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Ten minute drive from the house with an hour of hiking and 1365' gain in 1.75 miles. Quite nice with the snow runoff in the ravines. There's a six pitch 11a we did last year around the left side of the formation that is also quite excellent.
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Sounds like a perfect approach to me!
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Nice!!!
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Nice!
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Sweet
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Cool!
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Burp!
Spring only crag?
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Hi Jim, good to see that you are still getting the "new" done. thanks for sharing this.
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Now Jim, how are the bolts?
Shorties (some of use larger boned folks get nervous about them short bolts)?
Clipping stances?
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Spring only crag?
Sept-May depending on temps
... how are the bolts?
Shorties (some of use larger boned folks get nervous about them short bolts)?
Clipping stances?
Anchor bolts are 3/8x 3 or 3 3/4”, protection bolts are 3/8x 3”. The on lead routing is an anomaly over here but I can’t bring myself to do that top down stuff that is so prevalent these days.
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Nice!
I heard mr mud is keep to try top down routing.
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Nice!
I heard mr mud is keep to try top down routing.
DIE
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Very, very nice looking. I suppose you'll be expecting me to drag my butt up there with you "one of these days?"
Kind of amazing that that kind of rock still remains untouched.
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The on lead routing is an anomaly over here but I can’t bring myself to do that top down stuff that is so prevalent these days.
;D :thumbup:
There is nothing worse than a poor top down job. I can't think of much I dislike more in climbing.
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Very, very nice looking.
Kind of amazing that that kind of rock still remains untouched.
I want to see some pictures of the "swirly" diorite.
Based on that intrusion I suspect metamorphism with wavy gravy foliations.
Flower Power dude :yesnod: :thumbup: :lol:
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I want to see where gold is!!!
The real stuff.
J.C., I M taking the boys to roaring camp outside of Jackson to gold mine for a week.
Washing rocks for a week will be nice.
Back to Jim’s new route thread!!!!
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I want to see where gold is!!!
The real stuff.
J.C., I M taking the boys to roaring camp outside of Jackson to gold mine for a week.
Washing rocks for a week will be nice.
Back to Jim’s new route thread!!!!
Sounds like fun.
Hope you guys hit pay dirt!