MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Everywhere Else => Topic started by: mynameismud on May 09, 2019, 08:43:15 AM
-
Went climbing at Index last weekend and Wednesday. Twice in one week, WhooHooo.
I TR’d 4 routes and lead a 5.9. I got spanked on the 5.9 lead but managed to get it clean. TR’d a 10c face without to much issue then ran a second lap. TR’d 11b face and got all but the crux mantel. We then moved over to the shade where I lead the 5.9 crack clean but a bit shaky. Then did a spin on TR and that felt good. Lastly did a 11c crack on TR one fall that lower crux but lowed to ledge and managed to climb through clean.
Wednesday climbed with my first Mountain Project partner. We went to Amazonia, this is a steep juggy area. I did not lead anything. I climbed a half dozen routes on TR and got absolutely worked. One route was 5.9 the rest were 5.10.
Was good to get out.
-
Be great to share a rope on my next tour north
-
Was good to get out.
...even if it was only granite.
-
Yeah, I have yet to find the truly junk rock. Give me some time. I keep hearing this stuff is kind of loose. I keep looking around. I have climbed more up here this year than the other two years combined.
Brad you should be happy to hear I have been wasting less of my time on the bike.
Squiddo, sure just let me know.
-
Brad you should be happy to hear I have been wasting less of my time on the bike.
Yes, that's really good. You're less likely to break bones now too ;)
-
Brad you should be happy to hear I have been wasting less of my time on the bike.
While I on the other hand just got my road bike back out after 6 months of not riding. I was invited to join some of my friends who still work at West Marine to ride in with them for Bike to Work day. Who knew it would be so wet this morning. It was not fun riding in the rain, but seeing friends and enjoying a vegan breakfast burrito and coffee before riding back home was the good part.
-
Ugh bike to work day. Really means, a bunch of jackasses get on a bike and ride to work.
Becoming moving obstacles for me.
Some had the nerve to pass me, but can’t keep up the passing speed.
Hello!!
Jackasses!!! Just drive into work!
Back to mr mud and his sport climbing.
-
Definitely mostly sport climbing, so far anyway
-
I thought about climbing twice this week.
-
I thought about climbing twice this week.
Me too!!
I even bought a rope!
-
I thought about climbing twice this week.
I did several mental FA's in your honor today. :prrr: :ciappa:
-
I was mental in your honor
-
I was mental in your honor
That's what you call a lawyer with an IQ of 80.
-
Nice sessions. Sorry for bail on pnw rock. Heinous week for me.
-
For Mud and the rest of you sandbaggers
The Five Stages of a Sandbag
RYAN SIACCI, ESQ.UPDATED ONMAY 7, 2019
The only easy thing about climbing in Suesca is the approach, facilitated by a seldom-used railway. Flat and inviting, the tracks carve their way through verdant farmland, passing another renowned icon of the crag: the shining white effigy of the Virgin Mary.
A statue to some sort of deity or saint is useful in a place such as this. If you’re hoping to send anything even close to your normal onsight grade, you’d better offer a prayer. Suesca is often considered the birthplace of rock climbing in Colombia, an old school crag with grades to match. Don’t expect any ice cream ticks here. This is where your ego comes to die… or does it?
My first Suescan route was a real eye-opener. The compact sandstone had been polished to a fine sheen, the result of decades of graceless ascents by unsuspecting chumps like myself. Only after plugging my third No. 3 Camalot did I feel in control of the route, at which point I had time to reflect that the steep and slippery handcrack was a very tough customer at 5.9. You can imagine my dismay when I later discovered I had been told the wrong grade. I’ve never worked so hard for a 5.6.
As you well know, the term “sandbag” can be a noun or a verb, either objective or subjective. To wit:
Sandbag
(noun) A route of substantially elevated difficulty in comparison to others of the same grade.
(verb) To suggest a route of such character to a friend.
Sometimes, as I had just experienced, it can be both. Regardless, of the grammatical implications, the psychological response is identical. The Kübler-Ross Theory regarding the Five Stages of Grief aptly describes the phenomenon:
1. Denial
Upon inspection of the route, it becomes obvious that it is harder than watching your parents make out. But the guidebook says 5.8… so it can’t be that tough, right? That big thin-fingers roof must climb easier than it looks.
Common Phrases
“I’ll just run up this one to warm up.”
“I’m pretty sure that’s a jug up there.”
“It’s basically slab.”
2. Anger
Before long, you’re engaged in mortal combat. You encounter diabolical moves with marginal protection above potential ledge falls. Your ego searches for a scapegoat, because this couldn’t possibly be your own fault.
Common Phrases
“Who fucking graded this?”
“Who fucking bolted this?”
“Who the fuck is Layton Kor?”
3. Bargaining
While it's pointless to beg the stone for mercy, that may not stop you from trying. Pictured: The unforgiving, sandbagged walls of Suesca, Colombia.
While it's pointless to beg the stone for mercy, that may not stop you from trying. Pictured: The unforgiving, sandbagged walls of Suesca, Colombia.
Courtesy Ryan Siacci
At some point, you’ll realize that culpability has little relevance to your current situation or the structural integrity of your ankles. You begin to seek solutions, including but not limited to lofty promises to various gods.
Common Phrases
“Please don’t be a sloper. Anything but a sloper.”
“If I live through this, I swear I’ll never climb again.”
“Help me, Buddha and Baby Jesus.”
4. Depression
This generally follows the descent and can occur regardless of success or failure. Your ego is now receiving its PhD from the School of Hard Knocks. You’re obviously not as good as you thought you were.
Common Phrases
“Man, I suck.”
“Gee, thanks for the route suggestion, asshole.”
“Well, I guess I might as well take up skiing.”
5. Acceptance
Now, hold up a moment… Who could possibly be asked to accept, and perhaps even enjoy, such a demoralizing and shameful experience? Is that even possible?
There are two ways you can accept sandbags into your life. The first is with humility. When the grade won’t do much for your Mountain Project profile, it reverts to the spirit in which it was intended—as a humble yardstick with which to measure the relative difficulty of routes at that crag, and that crag alone. With a positive mindset, the perception of injustice and outrageous difficulty disappears into the ether. Pure zen.
The second way is with hubris. Here, you’ll appease your ego by teaching it a new trick. The true sandbag artist sees every send as a monumental triumph and a personal badge of honor, because they recognize one shining truth: sandbags are pure, and everything else is worthless.
Common Phrases
“Sure, Epinephrine might get 5.9 at Red Rocks, but it ain’t the Steck-Salathe.”
“Ondra himself couldn’t onsight 5.8 at Vedawoo.”
“People say that the grades at J-Tree are stiff, but we invented the grade. So it’s not hard, everything else is soft.”
Ah, the ego is alive and well it seems. One day, I hope we might find a weapon potent enough to slay that wily bastard, but for now, he lives to fight another day.
As for myself, I must admit that I fall somewhere in the middle. Later that week, after coming to terms with my reduced potential in the face of such stiff opposition, I tackled a classic Suescan 5.9. By classic, I mean that it is more sandbagged than a First World War fighting trench and has destroyed more confidence than acne. I cruised the slippery corner crack which I had been told was the crux, only to find myself at an imposing roof. Mere feet above, the shining chains beckoned, but they were guarded by what I believe to be the single hardest move I have ever pulled on gear…
But I did pull it, and I felt like a goddamn champion. But then I remembered it was only 5.9, so I lowered from the route, changed my underwear and quietly returned home.
Related:
Cedar Wright: The Art of the Sandbag
-
Good one Clink.
-
You don't really expect me to read all that do you?
Are there cliff notes?
-
the cliff note version.
You Suck.
-
I was mental in your honor
Ha! You can't blame it on me!! :crazy:
-
Wtf? Are you a novelist?
Keep it short and pictures are preferred....them retired folk fall asleep easily.
-
There might be photos on there but they are so tiny we can't see them.
-
Went to Index again last weekend and we hit three new to us crags. I think I am climbing perhaps 5.7. 5.9 seems hard, 5.10 I get sometimes depending on the route, 5.11 I fall and hard 5.11 I tend to get thwarted, 5.12 I usually end up yarding on the rope or gear. My pads are sensitive. Plans for Wednesday and next weekend. Rain is coming back so will have to get creative. On one 5.11 I found a hand jam and was happy for the rest. Saw a beautiful 5.10 crack but my rope gun would have nothing of it because he had his eyes on 5.11
-
Keep up the good work.
Buy some lycra….it will help you climb 5.11.
-
...saw a beautiful 5.10 crack but my rope gun would have nothing of it because he had his eyes on 5.11
Your rope gun? What nonsense. You are and will always be the rope gun. When you and I are in the old folks home? You'll be the rope gun then. When we get a special outing to get to the crag (with walkers, of course)? You'll be the rope gun then too.
-
Keep up the good work.
Buy some lycra….it will help you climb 5.11.
Dude...
You are so on a roll lately - had me bustin' out on this and the other thread
I bet the developers were on a tight budget, may have been staying at the Ritz Carlton in Truckee.
:yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin: :lol: :lol:
-
Too funny, my walker needs a tune up
-
Clink, what's your favorite sandbag?
-
The one in Mud's skull.
:)
-
We need a specific thread for Sandbagging.
There is the sandbag that never was! That is his best....mr mud was working a route on discovery wall using natural gear. The crack had ended and he would not commit to the mantel.
Luckily for use mortals, Tom D and others bolted the line.
The route is known as Wet Kiss.
Brad has another good sandbag story about a line on the Frog MAr Mud did.
-
I never sandbag
-
I never sandbag
Lol, yep, but only in light of climbing guides from the 1960s ratings where 5.9 was the top end.
-
If you weighed as much as you have sandbagged, you wouldn't fit through a double door.
-
Very nice humor. I am laughing inside.
-
Got my first onsight/flash/whatever in a long time. It was probably 5.8 but hey I will take it. Got spanked on all the 12,s. Had one fall/hang on the other 10c.
-
Squiddo and I crushed the gym yesterday.
I might start going in on the week days.
-
Squiddo and I crushed the gym yesterday.
I might start going in on the week days.
I cancelled my membership several months ago and both my elbows and shoulders are vastly improved as a result.
That place was evidently poison to me.