MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Everywhere Else => Topic started by: mynameismud on June 16, 2019, 09:13:04 AM
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So I got my first 10d lead. Not a true on sight since I had seen someone lead it right before I did the lead. But, no falls first try. That felt good. First time I have done that in a long time. Got up a 12a with a couple of hangs.
Have actually been getting out once a week or so. A couple from the Bay Area moved up here and I have been climbing with them. Ales is very strong and has been consistently on sighting 12a and occasionally 12b. Watched him get a steep 12c on his third try. So, basically I have a rope gun and I spend the day getting trashed on 12's and hard 11's. At the end of the day when he is burnt I get on a couple of 10's or an easy 11.
Yesterdays 10d was not steep so it was not dependent on my blown out forearms. I just had to focus on my footwork and work my way through it. It was an 8:00 AM to 9:00 PM day. Ales got shutdown on a hard, sustained 12b so we should be back to this area. When it come to local crags this is my favorite area so far. It is about a 50 minute hike but there are no crowds and the rock is good.
The local crags around here can get crazy crowded and dogging routes is the norm. It is common to see people climb bolt to bolt. It is also common to see queues for climbs and people save spots in the queues. Different I suppose but whatever works. Happy to have found a good crag without a lot of people. Many of the routes had no signs of chalk. The four star 10d we got on was chalk less.
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Wow, an old dog learning new tricks? Not really. Maybe better call it relearning old tricks?
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More like digging up and gnawing on old bones
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Upon further thought, instead of bones, carcasses fits better.
Eminent Sandbaggerrie
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What is your local crag?
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Locally they are referred to as The Exits. It is a collection of crags, Little Mount Si is off of Exit 32 and off of Exit 38 their are crags scattered around on both sides of the Freeway. Exit 32 climbing is about 10 minutes off of the freeway, Exit 38 is a few hundred yards from the freeway.
I think carcass is fairly accurate. Hoping to get back to where I can lead 11's with some level of confidence again.
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One way to lead an 11 with confidence is you misremember its rating and sandbag yourself. Yesterday, I led Waverly Wafer, thinking it was 10b, to get to the rappel anchor on top. If I had remembered the rating correctly, I would have elected to do the dicey down climb to get out. :P
I finally led Generator Crack (always TR'ed it prior) helping my partner break in his shiny brand new Big Bros, green and blue. Of course, the blue one fell out on its own later on. :eeeek:
Once upon a time, Ales was my rope gun at Gold Wall (and his wife was my gym partner). Sad to see them move, but glad to hand them to you. :D
That also means that currently, my rope gun position is vacant. If anyone would like to fill it without pay, please let me know. ;D
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Waverly Wafer is 5.10 : )
Never believe SuperTopo, especially since it is officially dead.
Happy Birthday!!!
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Waverly Wafer is 5.10 : )
Actually, I won’t argue with that. There are plenty 10’s in the Valley that are just as hard and even harder.
Happy Birthday!!!
Thanks! Other than playing hooky today, I pretty much want to ignore it. I’m catching up with you more experienced folks fast . :eek:
Ok, I’m deleting the other Bday thread feeling a bit embarrassed to be called out. Today is my day, so I’m allowed to abuse my power! :devildevil:
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Actually, I won’t argue with that. There are plenty 10’s in the Valley that are just as hard and even harder.
Thanks! Other than playing hooky today, I pretty much want to ignore it. I’m catching up with you more experienced folks fast . :eek:
Ok, I’m deleting the other Bday thread feeling a bit embarrassed to be called out. Today is my day, so I’m allowed to abuse my power! :devildevil:
If you want to catch up with the folks here, you have a long way to go. Probably not the most judicious decision. It is a rather broken down slow moving crowd.
You are always allowed to abuse your power.
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I resemble those remarks
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Never believe SuperTopo, especially since it is officially dead.
Oh, BTW, guess what, these days, almost nobody looks at Supertopo any more. Mountain Project is where people go for ratings (consensus) these days. I bet that's the case with up north as well?
As far as Yosemite is concerned, the Sloan book is most commonly referenced (for topos).
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From what I am hearing from the crowds at the base of the climbs it is mostly the local guidebook but I do hear people mention Mountain Project. I am not a good reference point. I think I am mostly out of touch, I was at the base of a climb a couple weeks ago and heard three acronyms/references and I did not really know what any of them were. I am fairly sure a PAS is a Personal Attachment System, when I said dog draw people looked around like I was swearing.
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As far as Yosemite is concerned, the Sloan book is most commonly referenced (for topos).
Does he rate soft like the SuperTopo books?
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I am fairly sure a PAS is a Personal Attachment System...
Not Personal Attack System?
Does he rate soft like the SuperTopo books?
It depends. In my current climbing state, ALL his ratings feel stiff.
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Not Personal Attack System?
I like that better. It could be used to clear out the crags.
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comment to me this week,
Those moves would be hard for women, or people, like you.
I got spanked hard on 5.9 this weekend.
On a side note when we got to the base of the crag the two guys there asked if we saw the naked guy. We replied no, they replied oh guess he was done. They then proceed to tell the story of the naked guy masturbating on the side of the approach trail. He did not stop or move as they passed on by.
Washington is weird.
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For full disclosure, I full on yarded on gear, on a 5.9. Have not done that in decades. It was embarrassing, it was bad, it was really bad.
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it was bad, it was really bad.
Bad Mud!...Bad!...Bad Mud! :arf:
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Definitely, cuz I came home and peed on the carpet.
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So, what your saying is that you are unrecognizable with your clothes on?
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moves would be hard for women
spanked hard this weekend.
naked guy on the side of the approach trail.
Washington is weird.
Woof! :out:
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I full on yarded on gear, on a 5.9.
You need to eat red meat for the iron.
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Big deal. I pulled on gear all the way up El Cap. Trying to be all special bragging about it. c'mon guy.
;D
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Yeah, jeez, definitely need to step up my game.
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Yeah, jeez, definitely need to step up my game.
No kidding. I was at least hoping for a DIE :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin: :lol:
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You need to eat red meat for the iron.
Iron weighs you down :yesnod: :nonod: :arf:
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Iron weighs you down
Have you seen him lately? He needs some weight?
He can't get strong again...then the sandbagging will start again.
Right now, 5.9 feels like 10D to him, which is perfect.
Best to get him eating Whopppers to slow him down.
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I started my new diet.
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Does the new diet include red meat??
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I started my new diet.
Does it include moss?
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Moss, Mud and Crud
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Prunes?
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I bet he is on the twice passed peach pit diet.
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He needs to get heavy
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I am way heavy, need to lose some weight which is why I am dieting.
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Lifting?
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Just light weight for now. To many problems with my lower back. Need to work my core first.
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To many problems with my lower back. Need to work my core first.
I recommend the you-knee-sigh-kill for core and back.
Look at garage sales - people buy them and then don't have the perseverance to learn.
Look for a 20 or 24 inch wheel.
Yoga is medicine for the core and back :yesnod: :biggrin: :thumbup:
We are back to plant-based eating (the new, more annoying term for vegan) and no sugar.
The pounds drop off with no effort.
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I have been avoiding sugar. I have been eating a bit of meat, not much. I think I have been a bit lazy.
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right now I do not think my back could handle the impact of a fall.
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I have been avoiding sugar. I have been eating a bit of meat, not much. I think I have been a bit lazy.
Nice. I should qualify that and say no processed sugar.
Date sugar and blackstrap molasses are the two sweeteners that have nutritional value.
I also eat all the whole fruit I want - slow release, natural sugar.
Want a sweet treat? Take a date, pull out the pit and replace with a dollop of your favorite nut butter.
Make a dozen or so and put them in the freezer. So good!
But I digress...
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right now I do not think my back could handle the impact of a fall.
That is the beauty of the uni.
On a 24 inch wheel your foot is only a few inches off the ground at full downswing - that's where the pedal will be when you fall off. It's no higher than a normal stair step. Even on my 36 inch wheel my foot is only 12 inches up at full downswing, so it's like a tall step.
When I had my bout of sciatica I used to walk the railroad track rail. I got to where I could just look ahead and keep walking for a long way - it's actually easier if you don't look down. It helps shift everything back into balance. I also started swimming.
Now I do yoga flow - Vinyasa (which I NEVER thought I would do). It is seriously like medicine and I try to do it every day that I am not climbing - and even on some days that I do climb - especially after driving home. Child's pose and down dog are my favorite back stretches. I feel for you brother - back pain is no fun at all.
I'll never forget what my one sports medicine doc said when I was coming out of the sciatic episode - "Sitting is death".
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I am working on my 1arm pull-ups
I thought Mr mud was already on the vegan wagon....meat is good. Beer is even better.
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I am working on my 1arm pull-ups
I thought Mr mud was already on the vegan wagon....meat is good. Beer is even better.
What? No one finger pull-ups?
Vegan is so out of vogue. It's plant-based, whole food eating. :prrr:
Remember - The root of diet is DIE :out: :lol:
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What? No one finger pull-ups?
Vegan is so out of vogue. It's plant-based, whole food eating. :prrr:
Remember - The root of diet is DIE :out: :lol:
You're really close here to having to hear the "vegan" joke again....
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And us having to smell you guys!!
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Hay, I like saying "I have grass fed friends"
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Meat new people.
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Hay, I like saying "I have grass fed friends"
Meat new people.
I'll plant one on both of you next time I see ewe.
Ch Ch Ch Chia :out: :prrr: :ciappa: