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Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: BAP on November 12, 2019, 07:29:00 PM

Title: Que Lastima on the Gargoyle
Post by: BAP on November 12, 2019, 07:29:00 PM
Peter Braun leading Que Lastima 10B on Gargoyle - A true hidden gem: (Picture taken by me)


(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49050906042_dc97afc298_c.jpg)

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49050906222_5b11030dbb_c.jpg)

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49050906137_e5234327fc_c.jpg)





Title: Re: Que Lastima on the Gargoyle
Post by: NOAL on November 12, 2019, 09:47:21 PM
Very nice!!
Title: Re: Que Lastima on the Gargoyle
Post by: F4? on November 13, 2019, 02:44:39 AM
Nice route and pictures.

Find memories of Mr Mud leading it.
Title: Re: Que Lastima on the Gargoyle
Post by: Brad Young on November 13, 2019, 06:43:07 AM
Nice shots. But what are those red blotches all over your arms and legs??

Title: Re: Que Lastima on the Gargoyle
Post by: Brad Young on November 13, 2019, 06:50:29 AM
Testing, testing.

This new app ages a person by 20 years. More photos of Peter, as he'll look at age 40:

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49059717401_0b6ebf2fa6_c.jpg)


(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49059717241_53705ac327_c.jpg)

Title: Re: Que Lastima on the Gargoyle
Post by: BAP on November 13, 2019, 08:38:03 AM
Quote
Nice shots. But what are those red blotches all over your arms and legs??

The bad part of that climb:  I landed on top of poison oak bushes when I rappelled.  >:(
Title: Re: Que Lastima on the Gargoyle
Post by: JC w KC redux on November 13, 2019, 09:06:39 AM
The bad part of that climb:  I landed on top of poison oak bushes when I rappelled.  >:(

You need to attend my seminar on PO Avoidance.
That second shot of Peter is really nice.
Title: Re: Que Lastima on the Gargoyle
Post by: JC w KC redux on November 13, 2019, 09:12:42 AM
If you zoom in on Mr Mud in that first pic there are little flakes of something falling along the length of his right leg.
Is that chalk or choss?
Title: Re: Que Lastima on the Gargoyle
Post by: BAP on November 13, 2019, 09:43:40 AM
Quote
You need to attend my seminar on PO Avoidance.
That second shot of Peter is really nice.

What I need to do is to stay home knitting and watching TV   ;).

Yes, I like the second picture too.  Peter danced it.
Title: Re: Que Lastima on the Gargoyle
Post by: briham89 on November 13, 2019, 10:30:51 AM
Those photos of Mud are proof the new guidebook needs color!
Title: Re: Que Lastima on the Gargoyle
Post by: clink on November 13, 2019, 10:45:41 AM
 Nice pics of both.
 Briham89, Mud was born when most  televisions were black and white.
 I believe Waldo's era was primarily into cave painting.

 I have a touch of poison oak from Sunday
Title: Re: Que Lastima on the Gargoyle
Post by: JC w KC redux on November 13, 2019, 11:20:31 AM
Briham89, Mud was born when most televisions were black and white.
 I believe Waldo's era was primarily into cave painting.

In the old days (aka the good old days), elders were highly respected.
Those comments border on elder abuse. :yesnod: :out: :prrr: :ciappa:

I have a touch of poison oak from Sunday

What a Meanderthal. You'd think you would know how to avoid PO by now.  :lol:
Title: Re: Que Lastima on the Gargoyle
Post by: Brad Young on November 13, 2019, 11:53:11 AM

 I have a touch of poison oak from Sunday


In order to make you and Jenn feel better about your susceptibility to that evil plant, I will make the following statement:

I have a terrible case of P.O. It's everywhere, all over my body.
Title: Re: Que Lastima on the Gargoyle
Post by: BAP on November 13, 2019, 12:20:39 PM
Quote
I have a terrible case of P.O. It's everywhere, all over my body.

True statement?

I have some on my lower back too.  And the patches on my arms and legs are still growing.  Yuck!

Clink, I showered immediately after I got to you house.  And I slept in my sleeping bag.  So I shouldn't have contaminated the bed.  (Hopefully)

Title: Re: Que Lastima on the Gargoyle
Post by: JC w KC redux on November 13, 2019, 12:33:16 PM
^^^
Invalid without pictures.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/805/40063875245_325c6ff3a6_z.jpg)
Title: Re: Que Lastima on the Gargoyle
Post by: BAP on November 13, 2019, 12:41:05 PM
Oh my, yours is bad too.
Title: Re: Que Lastima on the Gargoyle
Post by: Brad Young on November 13, 2019, 12:45:13 PM

Oh my, yours is bad too.


Was.

And now you know why he's so paranoid about poison oak....
Title: Re: Que Lastima on the Gargoyle
Post by: Brad Young on November 13, 2019, 12:45:42 PM

True statement?


Truth is relative.
Title: Re: Que Lastima on the Gargoyle
Post by: clink on November 13, 2019, 01:52:29 PM

 With an imagination like Waldo's, it's just love and anticipation of the next segment of a story to hear, write or tell, (and/or paint on a cave wall).

 
Title: Re: Que Lastima on the Gargoyle
Post by: briham89 on November 13, 2019, 01:52:50 PM
Have you tried putting your poison oak rash under hot water? It FEELS SOOOOO GOOD. It is ALMOST worth getting poison oak.....but not really.

Now when I get PO (which I do all the time mountain biking in Santa Cruz), if I put it under hot water 3 - 4 times a day it almost completely takes away the urge to itch it.

I'm talking really hot water....turn the water up and test it on a non poison oak area first. You don't want to burn yourself, but it should be almost uncomfortably hot without burning.
When you put a poison oak rash under that hot water it feels like you are scratching it like crazy (which feels awesome), without actually scratching it and cutting the skin.
This works pretty darn well for me to relieve the urge to itch.
Title: Re: Que Lastima on the Gargoyle
Post by: BAP on November 13, 2019, 02:54:59 PM
Thank you Brian,
I will try the hot water treatment immediately.
Title: Re: Que Lastima on the Gargoyle
Post by: JC w KC redux on November 13, 2019, 02:58:54 PM
briham,
I was out climbing with clink with those blisters after doing just that.
It lasts about 5 hours for me. I rinse it under the hottest water I can stand for as long as I can stand it.
clink took one look at it and said...you need to see a doctor dude.
Title: Re: Que Lastima on the Gargoyle
Post by: F4? on November 13, 2019, 08:58:41 PM
Urine also helps sooth the poison oak rash.

I leave to you on how to apply!!
Title: Re: Que Lastima on the Gargoyle
Post by: mynameismud on November 13, 2019, 09:13:49 PM
Yikes looks nasty.  I remember one time, middle of summer I crashed my mountain bike into a bunch of poison oak.  Tumbled and slid down the hill until my shirt hooked on a poison oak stump (that left a nasty poison oak stump scratch from hell).  I was covered and as I was struggling to get back up the hill with my bike and up onto the trail a co-working reached down and we grabbed each others forearms and he pulled me the last little bit up to the trail.  Two days later he had a perfect, rosy red, blistered hand print on his forearm.
Title: Re: Que Lastima on the Gargoyle
Post by: F4? on November 13, 2019, 10:01:42 PM
I had just climbed Icarus or Deadalus, and Brad and I were making our way off near the caves.

Somewhere I took a PO branch to the chest (thanks brad). I thought nothing of it.

A week later Jenny is in bed scratching and scratching..

I had somehow infected her. Not being from around these parts she had zero clue what the rash was.

Lesson learned, I changed cloths at parking lot. And put in wash at home.

Title: Re: Que Lastima on the Gargoyle
Post by: mungeclimber on November 14, 2019, 01:54:13 PM
and they wonder why I don't climb at Pinns as much.   ::)  :o


Technu is my friend.
Title: Re: Que Lastima on the Gargoyle
Post by: BAP on November 14, 2019, 07:53:09 PM
I am having a really really bad case.  My upper body now are covered with rashes, they look like chicken pox, and both my legs and arms. 
Munge,  I don’t want to go to Pinns for a while.   Better to go to higher altitude area.

I am so miserable now. 
Title: Re: Que Lastima on the Gargoyle
Post by: Brad Young on November 14, 2019, 07:59:34 PM
^^^

Damn, Jenn, I am so sorry. I hope you're taking steps to fight it? Technu is helpful after the fact. Do you have any Technu?


Title: Re: Que Lastima on the Gargoyle
Post by: BAP on November 14, 2019, 08:07:33 PM
I do now.  But it is little too late.  Should had bought some at CVS on Saturday.  This time is the worst ever.
Title: Re: Que Lastima on the Gargoyle
Post by: BAP on November 14, 2019, 08:12:44 PM
Maybe I should change my user name here to Polka Dot Lady. 
Title: Re: Que Lastima on the Gargoyle
Post by: briham89 on November 15, 2019, 07:57:17 AM
If you have it that bad you should go to the doctor. They can give you a steroid shot and it will go away.
Title: Re: Que Lastima on the Gargoyle
Post by: Brad Young on November 15, 2019, 08:00:56 AM

If you have it that bad you should go to the doctor. They can give you a steroid shot and it will go away.


I've been texting her the exact same thing this morning.

Great minds, etc.
Title: Re: Que Lastima on the Gargoyle
Post by: BAP on November 15, 2019, 08:20:04 AM
Quote
They can give you a steroid shot and it will go away.

I just made an appointment.  If they give me a STEROID SHOT, I should run the Berkeley Half Marathon this Sunday, maybe I will win. ::)
Title: Re: Que Lastima on the Gargoyle
Post by: Brad Young on November 15, 2019, 08:26:48 AM

I just made an appointment.  If they give me a STEROID SHOT, I should run the Berkeley Half Marathon this Sunday, maybe I will win. ::)


New rule:

After steroids for a massive case of P.O. the climber must go immediately to Pinnacles and lead both routes on Prednisone Pinnacle.

Title: Re: Que Lastima on the Gargoyle
Post by: BAP on November 15, 2019, 08:44:42 AM
Quote
After steroids for a massive case of P.O. the climber must go immediately to Pinnacles and lead both routes on Prednisone Pinnacle.
I am not going to climb anymore.  I am selling my gear.
Title: Re: Que Lastima on the Gargoyle
Post by: BAP on November 15, 2019, 08:49:34 AM
Prednisone Pinnacle?  For real?
Title: Re: Que Lastima on the Gargoyle
Post by: clink on November 15, 2019, 09:28:13 AM
Still use the Technu. 2 or 3 uses removes the oils that cause and spread the rash.
Title: Re: Que Lastima on the Gargoyle
Post by: BAP on November 15, 2019, 09:40:05 AM
I will.  thank you.
Title: Re: Que Lastima on the Gargoyle
Post by: mungeclimber on November 15, 2019, 10:04:46 AM
If the rash spreads to areas that are not contact points or subsequent contact with contaminated clothing you MUST go to urgent care now!!!!


You are likely having a systemic response.
Title: Re: Que Lastima on the Gargoyle
Post by: mynameismud on November 15, 2019, 12:23:49 PM
for future excursions they make a pre-exposure cream that I have found works fairly well.  I used that last 5 years or so in the Bay Area while climbing and riding.   I still got PO on occasion but usually only a couple of dots.  I think this is also sold by Technu.
Title: Re: Que Lastima on the Gargoyle
Post by: BAP on November 15, 2019, 01:21:37 PM
Thank you.
Title: Re: Que Lastima on the Gargoyle
Post by: mynameismud on November 15, 2019, 01:49:49 PM
I think this is the stuff.  I also comes in gel and as wipes.  It is also possible to purchase by the gallon which might be helpful.

(https://d2ch1jyy91788s.cloudfront.net/buyemp/images/product/CoreTex-Ivy-X-Pre-Contact-Skin-Solution-9148075-1200_1200.jpg)
Title: Re: Que Lastima on the Gargoyle
Post by: waldo on November 15, 2019, 06:08:02 PM
With an imagination like Waldo's, it's just love and anticipation of the next segment of a story to hear, write or tell, (and/or paint on a cave wall).

Clink, I feel a P.O. story coming on, maybe something like the BLOB.

I belayed Jack while he drilled the first bolt. It took hours. He could only get into a stemming stance, hit the drill half a dozen times and then come down. Tough stuff. He was knackered after bolt two. Sam got the FA lead.
Title: Re: Que Lastima on the Gargoyle
Post by: F4? on November 15, 2019, 07:25:32 PM
Rule of thumb was if spread to face...Dr visit.

Now after multiple episodes, an advise nurse asked...
Well have you washed your bedding and all clothes ?

Heal up!!!
Title: Re: Que Lastima on the Gargoyle
Post by: Brad Young on November 15, 2019, 09:38:16 PM
Quote

I belayed Jack while he drilled the first bolt. It took hours. He could only get into a stemming stance, hit the drill half a dozen times and then come down. Tough stuff. He was knackered after bolt two. Sam got the FA lead.


Bob,

I remembered your story when we were out there. Especially the part about him having three fingers on a hold, and one finger and a thumb to hold the drill. I got a photo (the hold is perfect for those three fingers!):

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49072437457_e8cedd44f8_c.jpg)

Title: Re: Que Lastima on the Gargoyle
Post by: JC w KC redux on November 16, 2019, 07:41:25 AM
^^^
That looks like a smallish stud on an SMC stainless hanger w slight patina.
What size and type are the bolts?
Title: Re: Que Lastima on the Gargoyle
Post by: Brad Young on November 16, 2019, 09:15:43 AM

^^^
That looks like a smallish stud on an SMC stainless hanger w slight patina.
What size and type are the bolts?


All correct. It was hard to get close enough to it to get a great photo, so that one is blown up and a little pixilated (it's actually the second bolt).

It looked to me like a 1/4 inch stud bolt with a nut.

The first bolt, placed from the start boulder to protect the moves out over space, was a 3/8 inch Rawl.

But the hold to this bolt's immediate left just looks custom-made for three fingers (good rock too).

Title: Re: Que Lastima on the Gargoyle
Post by: JC w KC redux on November 16, 2019, 09:33:14 AM
All correct. It was hard to get close enough to it to get a great photo, so that one is blown up and a little pixilated (it's actually the second bolt).
It looked to me like a 1/4 inch stud bolt with a nut.

The first bolt, placed from the start boulder to protect the moves out over space, was a 3/8 inch Rawl.

But the hold to this bolt's immediate left just looks custom-made for three fingers (good rock too).

That is weird and also a bummer that there is a mix. I don't usually see that except on rare occasions but I have seen it on a few of Jack's routes. I am a bit disturbed that they were still placing that tiny stuff in the early 90's (date of the FA). I think Jack may have done that from desperate stances where a smaller and shallower hole could be drilled quicker.   

waldo may be able to shed some more light.
Title: Re: Que Lastima on the Gargoyle
Post by: Brad Young on November 16, 2019, 09:40:00 AM

...I think Jack may have done that from desperate stances where a smaller and shallower hole could be drilled quicker.   


I think that this is exactly the case. From memory, Bob told me that it took Jack 3 1/2 hours to drill that bolt!

Jim used to do the same thing sometimes (using 1/4 bolts in desperate stances). He's replaced most of these by now, however.
Title: Re: Que Lastima on the Gargoyle
Post by: JC w KC redux on November 16, 2019, 11:36:46 AM
Prednisone Pinnacle?  For real?

Yes, it's real. I did these routes last time I got that evil stuff and had to take steroids.

294.4  Step Down Regimen  5.2  This is one of two routes on the uphill side of Prednisone Pinnacle.  Prednisone is located 100 feet uphill (southeast) from Hidden Pinnacle, near the top of the ridge separating Hanging Valley from Frog Canyon. Its downhill side is quite tall (about 65 feet). Step Down Regimen ascends the left (southwest) side of the 20 foot high, uphill face of the pinnacle.  Move left on a ledge several feet before moving up over a series of small “steps” to the summit and a two-bolt anchor.  Gear:  1 ½ to 2 ½ inches.  FA Party:  John Cook.   FA Date:  February 17, 2016. 

294.5  All Jacked Up  5.5  Climb Prednisone Pinnacle’s 20 foot high uphill face.  A short, class four groove leads to a shoulder.  One bolt protects moves from there to the summit and a two-bolt anchor (shared with Step Down Regimen).  FA Party:  John Cook and Kathy Cook.   FA Date:  February 21, 2016. 
Title: Re: Que Lastima on the Gargoyle
Post by: waldo on November 16, 2019, 12:19:34 PM
That is weird and also a bummer that there is a mix. I don't usually see that except on rare occasions but I have seen it on a few of Jack's routes. I am a bit disturbed that they were still placing that tiny stuff in the early 90's (date of the FA). I think Jack may have done that from desperate stances where a smaller and shallower hole could be drilled quicker.   

waldo may be able to shed some more light.
  JC, Brad, you're exactly right. Jack went small and short on tough stances, only on those. The bolt might be an exotic. He had a supply of 5/16 buttonheads. I forgot exactly what he used, however. We only got around to replacing a couple of those babies. We must have intuited that you'd be coming along, JC.
Title: Re: Que Lastima on the Gargoyle
Post by: clink on November 16, 2019, 10:18:19 PM
Quote
That looks like a smallish stud

 Calling a Spade a Spade?

Title: Re: Que Lastima on the Gargoyle
Post by: clink on November 16, 2019, 10:31:05 PM
Quote
Clink, I feel a P.O. story coming on, maybe something like the BLOB.

 As seen in a photo up thread, when JC gets PO bad, he becomes Billy Blob Thornton. :)
Title: Re: Que Lastima on the Gargoyle
Post by: JC w KC redux on November 17, 2019, 07:58:47 PM
Calling a Spade a Spade?

Needs more bronzer.