MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: garrettknoll on January 23, 2020, 06:52:42 AM
-
Im looking for the best aid climbing routes, Bills bad bolt? son of dawn wall? What others has best 2 pitches of aid?
-
Los bandits my favorite. But has more free than aid
Rock around the clock is good. Another favorite as the free moves are not bad.
SODW is good, but has runout free climbing. Amazing to climb into and up through that massive cleft.
Peregrine is fun, but also has mandatory free climbing
Note, Pinnacles A1 is good for practicing getting out of the aiders and used to not using daisy chains. I learned to move much faster and to get used to top stepping.
Check raptor closures if looking at a Muchshitty ridge route.
Mungie can comment on the harder Premeditated route.
-
Peregrine - and many other Balconies routes on the main face - are currently affected by the closures. Everything on Machete Ridge is open.
-
The arch at the base of Machete, right or left and out and over (JC or Brad may comment/know about the roof of the arch)
Mechanics Delight
-
Pinnicles and Mossicles. BRRR.
-
The Wedge and Axe. High Peaks fun.
-
Depends on what type of aid practice.
Muchshitty arch out overhand is cool
-
Vote on the poll! I voted for aid. Dont withhold the aid.
-
Vote on the poll! I voted for aid. Dont withhold the aid.
What about aid with holds?
What about all the routes that were established using aiders or all the short bolt ladders that went free?
I like the way Richard's kept both the free and aid ratings although information must have already been lost before he published. Maybe clink has it in the Indiana Jones archives. :lol:
Is it still good style to do these routes on aid the way they were established?
Is there a secret purist sect that only repeats the old routes the way they were originally done?
Is something lost when the original aid rating is dropped - or never reported?
Take something like Doodlin' Dody. The only lead bolts (2) are 4 feet apart - clearly done using aid but not recorded in any guidebook. Maybe the bolts were placed using aiders and then freed. Want a modern example? - climb Disposable Income on The Bachelor. I placed all but the first bolt using aiders and then freed the line.
Third Sister 10a is another of many examples. First recorded in Richard's guidebook as 3 meters of 5.8 past 2 bolts...a small saddle...and a walk to the top rappel bolt. Clearly a two bolt bolt ladder that went free - now with a virtually useless first bolt and a 2nd bolt right in the middle of a hard crux with a serious risk of z-clipping - ouch! Either Richard's had the count wrong or a third bolt was added above the shoulder by a later party. 5.8 must have been a lot harder in the 70's. FA unknown.
Clearly sitting at home today causing trouble...
Maybe I should make a list :lol: :devildevil:
-
Vote on the poll! I voted for aid. Dont withhold the aid.
this is funny. I am thinking of editing the poll
-
Depends on what 'best' means to you?
Bolt ladder?
Desperate thin?
Loose choss?
kite and string?
Multiple pitches or single hard aid moves?
-
with a list of pinnacles aid routes
if I make the list I get to pick. ; )
-
I thought Mr Mud did not aid, rather frees the Aid.
-
Freeze Aid,
new international relief concert coming soon
-
Freeze Aid,
Nice play on words.
We nearly needed some freeze aid yesterday in the low temps, partial sun and crazy winds (55 plus almost 30 mph).