MudNCrud Forums

Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: The Big on December 25, 2006, 07:31:21 PM

Title: Merry Chistmas -- New Route
Post by: The Big on December 25, 2006, 07:31:21 PM

New route on Chaos Crag, on the East face about 130' up the gully from Train Spotting.



S.O.B. Sweet Orgasmic Bliss 11c 13x 160'.  You can supplement the the loose section with a red alien and 2 camalot.  Use long slings on some of the bolts to avoid rope drag.



Five days of bolting, 2 with mudworm, 2 with Ubber and 1 with Brad.  Toped out with Brad on Saturday then went back and led it with mudworm today.  Ubber's proposed name of Thrills, Chills and Spills accurately describes the experience.

Title: Merry Chistmas -- New Route
Post by: F4? on December 26, 2006, 10:44:04 AM

13 bolts sounds like a sport climb.

Title: Merry Chistmas -- New Route
Post by: F4? on December 26, 2006, 10:47:15 AM

Does this mean you'll start climbing established routes in the discovery area?

Title: Merry Chistmas -- New Route
Post by: Jody Langford on December 26, 2006, 11:21:08 AM

I don't think they meant 13 bolts. I think it goes at 5.11c with the bolts and it is a 5.13x climb without the bolts.

Title: Merry Chistmas -- New Route
Post by: The Big on December 26, 2006, 12:02:05 PM

Quote from: "F4?"

13 bolts sounds like a sport climb.

I put one small runout at the top just for you and the bolt after the crux is just out of reach ater you grab the jug.



:)