MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: Brad Young on March 15, 2020, 10:05:28 AM
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It's route number 611 in the 2007 book. The first ascent is credited: "unknown, probably Brad Young, Clint Cummins, 11/2005."
The first ascent information matters, because I've now changed the route.
As the years have passed, I've realized that this November, 2005 effort really was the FA. We claimed "probably" then because the route is just so obvious from the trail. But no-one has brought out other information since then, and if a route being obvious from the trail disqualifies it as an FA, well, the implications are obvious. The new book first ascent entry for this route will read: "Brad Young, Clint Cummins, 11/2005."
After concluding that this really was the first ascent (and likely still the only-ever ascent), I thought about how we used the tree to protect the 25 foot high, starting water chute. It's not just an issue of using a tree either. On the first lead, after talking with Clint, I climbed an easier face about 25 feet to a tree that is well up and right from the main climbing line. I used three or four slings tied together from this tree to reach fairly low onto the chute that is the line. I then down climbed to the base and climbed the water chute.
We thought of this as a rope trick that let us "avoid placing bolts."
But as more time goes by, this looks like less of a rope trick, and more like nonsense.
Using trees for anchors and/or protection points seems less viable now than it used to seem. First, it can and does kill trees. Second, years ago I had a 1 1/2 inch diameter tree break off under much less than body weight. I couldn't believe that a tree of this diameter could break like that (I took a 20 foot tumble/fall onto a grassy slope). Add in the distance the tree that protects South Summit Slot is from the actual climbing? Yeah, it just didn't make sense any more.
About a month ago I got on the route intending to add a bolt to protect that chute and make the silliness of using the tree unnecessary. That effort didn't work very well though.
First, given the nature of the climbing and the location of the slings way down from the tree, it became obvious that two bolts would be needed to provide the same level of protection as the slung tree. Second, in a rare and dumb stunt, I f#$ked up the one bolt that I did place!!
So two days ago I went back. The nature of the screw up on the bolt I'd placed earlier meant that the hole was unusable after I removed the bolt. I patched it and carefully camouflaged the hole. In the end I used a new hole and I also placed a second bolt. I'm pleased that the bolts are in rock that is "8" and "7" out of ten in quality (really pleased). Unfortunately the climbing itself is not anywhere near as good as the bolts ;) The new bolts' hangers are very well camouflaged too, and almost invisible from the trail.
I'm not as diligent about photos on this kind of stuff as is our forum rebolting specialist. Anyone who's made it this far into reading this text will not be rewarded by any visual stimulus. Just the report.
And by this bet: I bet that both people that climb this route over the next 100 years will be glad that I made this effort ::)
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You are disappointing me because you are disproving my perception of you being insane. Thank you. JC and I looked at that route over a year ago and collectively thought you were insane.
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^^^
I bitterly resemble that remark.
But at least you used the past tense.
And no matter what happens, Mister Mud is and always will be more insane than me.
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The aberration is there, lurking always as the insanity waiting to manifest in the otherwise overly coherent maniac, Dr. Young.
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Better in sane than outa sane.
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Where in the Holy Pinnacles Rule book does it state that conifers make acceptable protection.
I still have splinters in my palms from when you and I climbed Dedalus with the tree chimney start (may said tree RIP).
Better to bolt it.
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Brad messes up a bolt placement! Wow, I feel slightly less imbecilic with my attempts at learning the finer art of drilling and placing bolts. I’m confident though I will be able to overcome this “developmental delay”. Seriously though, I have immense respect for Brad’s attention to detail & workmanship. Your a true artist and craftsman Brad!
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I'm gonna puke.
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:puke:
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No man, I think it’s true...
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Thanks, Russ, that was a nice thing to say.
Mister Mud wasn't going to puke because of what you said though. He has a history of many types of instability and this extends to his internal plumbing. The funny thing is? When he "pukes," he pukes mud.
And you, hey Dennis, you'll pay for your insolence....
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PPPHHHHHHBBBBBBRRRRRRPPPPPSSSSSSSSS
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See? That's the sound he makes when all the mud comes gurgling up.
BTW, I can't remember whether I posted this question here yet (that's what happens when you're almost 100 years old):
How do you get four little old ladies to shout "fuck?"
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No idea, wear your summer wardrobe to a nursing home?
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No idea, wear your summer wardrobe to a nursing home?
No, good guess. But that's too literally what would happen.
BTW, what's the difference between a literalist and a kleptomaniac?
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What's the difference between a literalist and a kleptomaniac?
One takes things literally.
The other takes things, literally.
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How do you get four little old ladies to shout "fuck?"
Get a fifth little old lady to shout "bingo."
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BTW, what's the difference between a literalist and a kleptomaniac?
The literalist gets convicted and the kleptomaniac walks.
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:lol:
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So has no one else really ever climbed this thing? This is the giant, obvious chimney system seen from the parking lot, no? Sorry, I dont have my book on me at the moment. I've been eying that thing for years.
Brad, will I die if I attempt it?
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If you do, be sure to soft brush the route.
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So has no one else really ever climbed this thing? This is the giant, obvious chimney system seen from the parking lot, no? Sorry, I dont have my book on me at the moment. I've been eying that thing for years.
Brad, will I die if I attempt it?
Zay - I know you have asked about this route on at least one other occasion - that backside chimney route is not what this thread is referring to (but you probably already realize that).
That one is called North Summit Crack 5.7
2 pitches - all gear.
double cams to 4 inches and stoppers.
2nd crack to the left of the chimney leads to a ledge 60 feet up - traverse in to the chimney and belay from gear.
continue 100 more feet in the chimney unprotected until you can join Regular Route (on the left side) - finish on that.
I haven't done the route yet but I want to.
I've done the Regular Route and the 4th Class to the south summit.
Kat and I also put up a new bolted route - Dare to Declare that is fun.
happy hunting.
JC
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Zay:
1. You will die whether or not you attempt it.
2. You can't see this route from the parking lot - it's on the opposite side of Proclamation.
3. Did you read this thread from the beginning to see that the way I originally left the route - with a weird tree tie-off to the side - seemed dumb to me these years later, so I added two lead bolts to make it a real route?
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Classic post and ghost :yesnod: :out: :prrr: :ciappa:
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Thanks for responding guys.
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Kat and I climbed this route two weeks ago today.
The bolts were very welcome.
I wingspanned way out left to reach/clip the first bolt before committing to the lousy rock at the start.
Decent hands with committing stemming on crumbling foot holds (left side) to reach bolt 2.
I got a sling knob at the lip.
30 feet to the next pro.
In hindsight, I should have stemmed the last 25 feet but got spooked by the rock quality (again) and instead assumed an awkward chimney position in the flare.
I felt like I was going to pitch off at least twice in that section and worse - I could not turn into the thing to have any possibility of getting in more pro (it probably wouldn't hold a fall anyway). It was terrifying. :yikes:
Shade in the squeeze chimney (you can barely see me) was heaven sent (on a 95 degree day).
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3efwGEIcFHobAs4VOXwExRBSl0AV3QhkXKl5mK0tc7NheBzI24XVGKTaySt_jVPkSenJCWFFK0QGcIMT-JtpjV955ahdggWZ9fHnyn_2bt2WzNeuNwp50MH2sgyhfqUXErKJ9LnjCLui42IHclUElck=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
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Kat and I climbed this route two weeks ago today.
The bolts were very welcome....
So, did I win this bet:
"...I'm not as diligent about photos on this kind of stuff as is our forum rebolting specialist. Anyone who's made it this far into reading this text will not be rewarded by any visual stimulus. Just the report.
And by this bet: I bet that both people that climb this route over the next 100 years will be glad that I made this effort ::)"
Or is it even a bet if no-one actually accepted and shook my hand? Yep, I'm glad we did the "nonsense" ascent, and at least as glad that I added the bolts.
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I bet that both people that climb this route over the next 100 years will be glad that I made this effort ::)"
Anyone who climbs the route will be grateful. The bolts are well placed in terms of both position and quality (including aesthetics).
Me and Tuff Chik at the summit (a kind passerby offered to send these to us).
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cdGqwOmbr1f4yNJgTOKLSeRqKsBT4ROsKlPQYGzJJqOmjszuc4V6LE1MqV8QLAdSZvVVNvmr0Qm9-CVEXB0eOPZDUNddS7mfqsXXCTrkUtSFsK7kWX1Ltm-ccVD8dWdDkveadUIGRdSEkZEDqNU2Mt=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
And Tuff Chik rapping from the spiffy anchor I replaced last year. It's set to take you right back down the route.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3ffFyP8LFfFz6hUrXcSam5p4NObwYKACNy3z66O4P-DgrvSnU-rH_XdSy4TwhrleAFufmADuN9R3gfLJqWV-4NmWtK2pANevHxlXVy_MmD9rU0xjheMXyAtLUBdUyx9rwpnZ7I_JCojxZNJ31Y9iZ_6=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
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Did this route today. Thank you Brad for adding those bolts; you're ****ing crazy for having done it without them :o
William and I thought the chimney was a hoot, and he'd never even been to Pinnacles before.
Pro was, as advertised, so-so. (in order of appearence: blue, yellow, and black totem; black and yellow were within inches of each other, and were about 4 feet up and left of Blue, which was a good ways after the last bolt. But hey, who falls out of a good chimney?)
Sweet summit.
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^^^
New rule. No using the word crazy in the same sentence as my name.
Second new rule. No using the word crazy in the same post as my name.
I’m anything but crazy: husband, father, career; all the establishment, old fart stuff. No crazy here.
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Oh, and I forgot some of the more obvious characteristics too. Rich, tall, handsome, gregarious. Great wife. Total square, mainstream, not crazy.
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You are way too timid for my taste, anyway.
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@Brad,
Your Crazy!!!!!!!
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Crazy, skilled, lucky - but mostly crazy. :ciappa:
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You are way too timid for my taste, anyway.
That makes sense. After all, it wasn't me who jumped off the free moves above the aid ladder on Los Banditos.
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That makes sense. After all, it wasn't me who jumped off the free moves above the aid ladder on Los Banditos.
LOL that got a good chuckle outta me.
Still need to go back and finish that route... wonder if anyone's been on it since...? Like JTree said (in his excellent trip report), "All crux free sections should be protected by more-than-vertical bolt ladders."
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Just saw this thread...sorry Brad. I climbed that with my cousin when I was ten years old...1974.
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^^^
New rule. No using the word crazy in the same sentence as my name.
Second new rule. No using the word crazy in the same post as my name.
I’m anything but crazy: husband, father, career; all the establishment, old fart stuff. No crazy here.
Everything you listed makes you crazy. :)
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Just saw this thread...sorry Brad. I climbed that with my cousin when I was ten years old...1974.
Mystery solved.
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Nahhh...I was just kidding, Jerking Brad's chain.