MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Everywhere Else => Topic started by: Jim on April 27, 2020, 02:16:03 PM
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The gift that keeps on giving...
There was one major line that I started with Jon 3 or 4 years ago. We did two pitches and had not gotten back to it.
The first pitch was very hard and scary and drilling the 4th bolt was a sketched out, feet skating affair that is still etched in my mind.
After a couple days for recovery after completing the wonderful 'Equilibrium' (Physical Distancing Part 3), we were back to get on the 'one major line' with an extra rope to leave fixed on the hard parts so as to save energy on subsequent efforts.
Pitch 1 5.11 hard starts behind the pine, goes up across the black diorite band to the little feature coming down below center right of the roof, then up the rightish side to the prominent crack. Pitch 2 goes up the crack at 5.10- (34m gear doubles to 3" - a 4 could be handy but weighs too much)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49827681057_a5c271776c_c.jpg)
Pitch 3 is a short gruff thing to get onto the top of the buttress below the large arching crack. (You may think the arching crack looks awesome and it does however it is wet, grungy and full of large choppers)
Pitch 4 follows the outside edge. Very cool position and moves. 35m 5.9/10a 4 bolts gear to 2"
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49827367446_dba4b1dbb0_b.jpg)
Jon coming up P5 34m 5.8 3 bolts gear
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49827367431_e44e819e1e_b.jpg)
Jon coming up P6 20m 5.8 3 bolts
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49826834268_be9124bb7e_b.jpg)
Heading down
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49827680587_2c1a12ff02_b.jpg)
Spring has sprung
Flora
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49827366851_60a85dcc50_b.jpg)
Fauna
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49827366916_741d2b3a02_b.jpg)
We finished the route. With no subsequent efforts we (Jon) had to carry that darn rope both out, up and back.
It's been fun and rewarding. Now back to the ongoing remodel saga!
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Those last 3 pictures are cool. I especially like the one of the deer in profile_silhouette.
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Jim,
- So the shoulder and other body parts are working well again?
- That's a long, long way up there from your house. Two hour approach?
- That chimney looks great. When will you be leading that?
Very nice photos. But the routes won't be valid until I can get on them....
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Jim,
- So the shoulder and other body parts are working well again?
Working well enough with considerations
- That's a long, long way up there from your house. Two hour approach?
Shorter approach then most of the Sonora areas
- That chimney looks great. When will you be leading that?
That’s for you if you want it baad enough
Very nice photos. But the routes won't be valid until I can get on them....
Autumn time for you
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Jim,
Don't write within the quotes.
How long a hike? Measure house to crag and we'll do the same here for comparison - including in our case driving and hiking times combined into one.
If that chimney is dry (skeptical about that at this time of year) I'd climb it.
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Looks like you and your brother are self isolating well.
That rock looks amazing!!
I take it it’s too hot in the summer?
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Brad,
“Don't {why not?} write within the quotes.”
“How long a hike? {60-75 minutes} Measure house to crag and we'll do the same here for comparison - including in our case driving and hiking times combined {90 minutes} into one.”
“If that chimney is dry (skeptical about that at this time of year) I'd climb it {you’ll have to find a belayer cause I don’t wish to witness the carnage}.”
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Brad,
“Don't {why not?} write within the quotes.”
It confuses old people.
“How long a hike? {60-75 minutes} Measure house to crag and we'll do the same here for comparison - including in our case driving and hiking times combined {90 minutes} into one.”
Yeah, 90 minutes for some here. But most crags on this pass are between 50 and 75 minutes combined driving and hiking (lots of the South Fork and much of Chipmunk Flat, as examples). But everything here is closed - mostly because Bay Area and Central Valley people were swarming up here while facilities are closed and, in the process, overwhelming the area (especially leaving crap all over bandit-camping areas).
“If that chimney is dry (skeptical about that at this time of year) I'd climb it {you’ll have to find a belayer cause I don’t wish to witness the carnage}.”
No carnage if one knows how to climb chimneys. Sigh... have you really gotten that old?
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I’m old and it doesn’t confuse me.
50-75 minutes the way you drive...
Yes I have gotten that old. You likely overlooked the chopper flakes in the arch (chimney) I mentioned early on. I have no interest in getting or watching someone else get the chop. I like that I have gotten that old and can continue to have fun and look forward to getting older yet.
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The chimney forming the left side of the initial buttress does look entertaining and I think may have been climbed in the past. Is the the one you’re keen on?
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Sahweet line!