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Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: Brad Young on January 02, 2007, 07:10:58 AM

Title: All the 5.11s, Getting There?
Post by: Brad Young on January 02, 2007, 07:10:58 AM

How'd it go Sunday and Monday old fella? You get more done? You go down there at all?



We climbed Sunday, and it was so cold and overcast that I asked Bob if he thought it might snow. Still, confirmed that that route I found was Jack Holmgren's. Bob had climbed it with him and remembered it being called  "Ethical Pinnacle," which jibes with CC's notes. The route name is based on a difference in view about how climbs put up using aid should be reported. It is: "No Hooks, No Raps, No Errors." Superb rock. Before getting to the first bolt (50 feet) I placed two of the best cams in pockets I've ever placed. I'd rate it 5.10b**. Big fun.

Title: All the 5.11s, Getting There?
Post by: The Big on January 02, 2007, 08:32:46 AM

Did not climb Sunday or Monday.  Sunday we went for a walk on the beach and a bike ride.  Monday was spent with friends and a nice walk on the beach beautiful day.  This coming weekend will have to be it.

Title: All the 5.11s, Getting There?
Post by: F4? on January 02, 2007, 08:45:45 AM

Hey Brad. I was stuck at work on Saturday, but did go down on Sunday. Man did it get cold. We ended up on the east side. Pat made some notes about the rock on Discovery wall.



We ended up cutting out early because the temperature was dropping.



High Peaks this weekend?

Title: All the 5.11s, Getting There?
Post by: mungeclimber on January 02, 2007, 09:40:36 AM

short hikes for me if anyone is interested in doing something close to the car on the West Side.

Title: All the 5.11s, Getting There?
Post by: Brad Young on January 02, 2007, 09:42:25 AM

Tell Pat "thanks" times two. And then tell him to hurry up.



No HPs for me. down to the last 6 topos and all the basic fieldwork is done. All 6 are on The Machete, and all 6 are well along. And, if Katie goes, she wants to lead Corona, which she backed off of last weekend. Weather looks good.



BTW, just finished tallying milage for the book in 2006. This includes trips to Pinns, of course, and also, trips to Steve's to work on it. Total for one year is 11,635 miles. Am I  an f-ing idiot or what? Hell, I bet Munge didn't come close to that coming up here!

Title: All the 5.11s, Getting There?
Post by: mungeclimber on January 02, 2007, 09:46:34 AM

challenge accepted for 2007



;)

Title: All the 5.11s, Getting There?
Post by: Brad Young on January 02, 2007, 09:52:24 AM

"Short hikes." Everything at Pinns is a short hike. Why short and what is "short"  to you?



And don't even try to beat me on the milage, I bet I'll be up to 1000 miles for 2007 by the end of the month!

Title: All the 5.11s, Getting There?
Post by: F4? on January 02, 2007, 10:08:34 AM

Thank Pat when he produces something.



Who bought thier Golden Eagle before they went up? Bought mine Sunday, just in time. The rangers said 80% of what you spend at the park on the Eagle passes stays there. So support the Pinns and buy your Golden Eagle Pass there.

Title: All the 5.11s, Getting There?
Post by: mungeclimber on January 02, 2007, 10:56:22 AM

got my GEP before NYE at JT.







I've got some bronchitis or something that is making me hack a lung. Don't want to hump far with a tight chest.





oh, btw, I'm fuxored for end of January. back on the duty for a couple weeks.

Title: All the 5.11s, Getting There?
Post by: F4? on January 02, 2007, 06:25:02 PM

So Brad, does it mean you have to repeat Glenn Denny's route on Machete next weekend? You know to make sure the route goes? If the tree isn't used, does that qualify as freeing the pitch?  Of course then there's finding the 1 bolt on the pitch.



What about having an expiration for un-reported Holmgren routes? Maybe a new title: SDA Second Discovered Acent

Title: All the 5.11s, Getting There?
Post by: Brad Young on January 02, 2007, 06:57:10 PM

I'm working my way from right to left on both the Badman Mezzanine and Upper West Face topos. Both are in very good shape, but I am not going to do that route this weekend. I will be doing it though. (Given that I won't be doing it with the option of placing a bolt - and I won't be sure I'm in the right place - I may look for the bolt on rappel first, too)



What are you doing Saturday, Factor? How about you and Pat join me for Trident, Full Throttle, Bills Bad Bolts - Direct, and the face climb which reverses the Old Original rappel pitch? Lots of pitches, lots of fun - plus you're guaranteed to have scintillating company.

Title: All the 5.11s, Getting There?
Post by: F4? on January 03, 2007, 10:22:39 AM

Hey Brad, Saturday sounds internesting.



Pat might be interested. He was curious to know if the same rock layering at Discovery Wall was evident on the Wside. We surmised, no.

Title: All the 5.11s, Getting There?
Post by: Brad Young on January 03, 2007, 01:35:15 PM

So, is that a yes or a no? Or a definite maybe? Let me know quickly; I need someone for Satuday for sure. And Mungie-poo, you interested in joining us to make it four?

Title: All the 5.11s, Getting There?
Post by: mungeclimber on January 03, 2007, 03:54:30 PM

not if you use that name.



but I think i'm going to bow out. My strength level is low after all this hacking and spitting of the snot.

Title: All the 5.11s, Getting There?
Post by: F4? on January 03, 2007, 04:54:28 PM

Hey Munge can you belay?  :lol:



I've had that thing 2x! Sorry to hear your have it.

Title: All the 5.11s, Getting There?
Post by: mungeclimber on January 03, 2007, 05:17:55 PM

now, why would I belay if I'm not climbing?  



I'm probably going to finish replacing outlets in the house.

Title: All the 5.11s, Getting There?
Post by: mudworm on January 03, 2007, 08:03:22 PM

Quote from: "mungeclimber"

now, why would I belay if I'm not climbing?

Mr Mud has a way to answer that question -- first :), then say "'Cuz you love me."

Title: All the 5.11s, Getting There?
Post by: mungeclimber on January 03, 2007, 09:34:30 PM

heh