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Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: The Big on January 05, 2007, 03:45:05 PM

Title: Resolutions
Post by: The Big on January 05, 2007, 03:45:05 PM
Sometimes I do sometimes I don't.  This year I did something kinda crazy.  I have officially quit drinking until I get Ranger Bolts to the second set of chains.  I have a 12 pack under the house.



DIE
Title: Resolutions
Post by: mungeclimber on January 05, 2007, 06:39:51 PM
we've heard this one before
Title: Re: Resolutions
Post by: Jody Langford on January 05, 2007, 07:12:55 PM
Quote from: "Mr Mud"
... I have officially quit drinking until I get Ranger Bolts to the second set of chains.  



FA...

(http://www.sierramountainphotography.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/pnm6.1.jpg)
Title: Resolutions
Post by: Jody Langford on January 05, 2007, 07:14:35 PM
I made a resolution not to make any resolutions.
Title: Resolutions
Post by: salad on January 07, 2007, 06:43:39 PM
zak gave up booze until he gets astroman free.  not sure if that is rope solo free or with a partner free.
Title: Resolutions
Post by: The Big on January 07, 2007, 08:53:36 PM
If he needs a partner...
Title: Resolutions
Post by: salad on January 08, 2007, 09:29:36 AM
yeah i mentioned that to him...
Title: Resolutions
Post by: F4? on January 08, 2007, 07:18:49 PM
Quote
If he needs a partner...



That would mean you'd have to start training. You might get stuck in the harding slot.... :oops:
Title: Resolutions
Post by: Jody Langford on January 08, 2007, 08:55:38 PM
Quote from: "F4?"
Quote
If he needs a partner...



That would mean you'd have to start training. You might get stuck in the harding slot.... :oops:



Is this Harding's Slot?

(http://jodylangford.tripod.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/pnm24.1.jpg)
Title: Resolutions
Post by: mungeclimber on January 08, 2007, 09:09:24 PM
more like Browers?
Title: Resolutions
Post by: Brad Young on January 08, 2007, 09:16:51 PM
Or Hammack's.
Title: Resolutions
Post by: Jody Langford on January 08, 2007, 09:47:51 PM
Either Hammack's or Michael's...
Title: Resolutions
Post by: Jody Langford on January 08, 2007, 09:51:54 PM
Which slot is this? I know what my dad called it but I can't find a climb by that name in the guide.

(http://jodylangford.tripod.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/pnm27.1.jpg)
Title: Resolutions
Post by: F'ueco on January 09, 2007, 06:56:58 AM
All of my resolutions revolved around cycling. The triple century is within reach!  :)



 Oh, and I would like to get back to climbing at my limits again. It has been six years since I did my hardest boulder problem and eight years since I did my "hardest" lead...
Title: Resolutions
Post by: Brad Young on January 09, 2007, 08:12:35 AM
OK, Jody, I can't name it. I don't recognize the route or the formation. Where is it and what did your dad call it?
Title: Resolutions
Post by: The Big on January 09, 2007, 09:30:51 AM
The only thing I could think of was the chimney on Flumes.  But where would the picture be taken from?
Title: Resolutions
Post by: The Big on January 09, 2007, 09:33:12 AM
F'ueco, have you thought of doing the California Triple Crown?  Which as you probably  know consists of doing the three hardest double centuries in California.  That has rattled around in the back of my head for years.





Quote from: "F'ueco"
All of my resolutions revolved around cycling. The triple century is within reach!  :)



 Oh, and I would like to get back to climbing at my limits again. It has been six years since I did my hardest boulder problem and eight years since I did my "hardest" lead...
Title: Resolutions
Post by: Jody Langford on January 09, 2007, 11:04:37 AM
If I heard dad right he called it the West Yak Chimney?
Title: Resolutions
Post by: The Big on January 09, 2007, 01:58:18 PM
What the sam hill...   So would that be the direct finish up Orion?  Will have to take a walk over there and take a look around.
Title: Resolutions
Post by: Jody Langford on January 09, 2007, 04:09:55 PM
Beats me...last time I was there I was knee-high to a grasshopper.
Title: Resolutions
Post by: Jody Langford on January 10, 2007, 05:28:29 PM
Clarification via e-mail from my dad:



This is the western-most Yak. The photographer would be standing on the ridge crest, probably on the climbers trail itself.  One must scramble down a few feet into a cleft (if I remember correctly) and cross over to the base of the chimney.  Hey, that's the best I can do after 30 years.  I could draw a picture, I guess, scan it and send it to you.
Title: Resolutions
Post by: The Big on January 10, 2007, 05:44:48 PM
Ok, I think I know what it is.  Do not know what the name is in the book will have to look but it is on what we now call South Yak.
Title: Resolutions
Post by: Jody Langford on January 10, 2007, 05:46:52 PM
Dad actually DID draw a map and send it to me...LOL!

(http://jodylangford.tripod.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/yak.jpg)
Title: Resolutions
Post by: Brad Young on January 10, 2007, 06:05:56 PM
That would make it the West Face of the South Yak. That makes sense. I haven't been on the route for 10 years, but I thought it was longer than the photo makes it appear. Ask your dad Jody if this was a route that saw any traffic. Does he know who did the FA? Maybe that would help us pin it down.



While you're talking to him, tell him I rewrote the history part of the book some time ago, but after I sent it to you. I added a few sentencees about his contributions to climbing in the Monumnet. It wasn't a lot, but I added some.
Title: Resolutions
Post by: Jody Langford on January 10, 2007, 06:58:01 PM
Brad, my dad said the Yaks didn't get much traffic at all when he was there. The Rubine guide said the FA was Hammack and Larimore in 1951. Dad said when he did the route the only protection they used was a couple of pitons in the chimney and nothing on the face leading up to the chimney.



What did you add to the history section, my dad's  freesolo of The Monolith?