MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: F4? on January 01, 2021, 05:47:11 PM
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So what’s left?
Where the birds hang, well it’s best left to the birds.
Pidgon crack, nope that’s out.
What’s left?
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Great Spectacular
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Sigh, queener said there was a bad block on it.
But true it does wait a free accent.
Let’s dig deeper
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Girdle traverse of the monolith?
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Lava Falls, pitch 3
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P2 of Son of Dawn
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Condorks' second pitch... ;D
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Dude you stole my route!! Yes a 2nd pitch is needed.
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After climbing (read: summitting) on tunnel wall today, I spotted three bolts leading up and left on (the imposing west face of) Chaos Crag. The third bolt had a locking biner on it, and I could not see any bolts above it...
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After climbing (read: summitting) on tunnel wall today, I spotted three bolts leading up and left on (the imposing west face of) Chaos Crag. The third bolt had a locking biner on it, and I could not see any bolts above it...
When I see one of those I usually go up and replace it with a combination locker... or a bag a poop.
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Dude you stole my route!! Yes a 2nd pitch is needed.
Brad said, "you guys used up all the good rock on the first pitch".
I beg to differ. I really want to climb that fin up above. Is Brad getting picky these days...?
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After climbing (read: summitting) on tunnel wall today, I spotted three bolts leading up and left on (the imposing west face of) Chaos Crag. The third bolt had a locking biner on it, and I could not see any bolts above it...
Bet it was nice on that wall today. You didn't get to enjoy climbing the Tunnel Traverse before I replaced the bolts. :yikes:
Pretty sweet now but I have never seen anyone on those climbs. I enjoyed them all including (presumably) Mr. Mud's evil run to the first bolt on Babies on the Ceiling.
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JC,
too lazy to grab my book... but I did the 5.7 immediately left of the tunnel... Tunnel Traverse starts on the right side, and climbs over it, yeah? looks really fun. i'll do it on my next high peaks forray :) i always do that other one though (to the left of tunnel), it's a great, long, steep, and exciting route... and a good one on which to throw down the rope when your partner is just starting to get sick of the hike >:D
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Brave man Zay, there was a nice PO bush at the base of Train Spotting
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Brad said, "you guys used up all the good rock on the first pitch".
I beg to differ. I really want to climb that fin up above. Is Brad getting picky these days...?
You’ve been threatening to add a second pitch to that for years now. Hurry up and get on it before you need a walker to get to the base. Hell, it’ll at least kinda keep you out of trouble (something needs to).
But I meant what I said: the rock above is crap and it’s covered with moss. Unless you move left, but then you’re getting onto the Great Chimney routes.
Keep us posted 😉
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You’ve been threatening to add a second pitch to that for years now. Hurry up and get on it before you need a walker to get to the base. Hell, it’ll at least kinda keep you out of trouble (something needs to).
But I meant what I said: the rock above is crap and it’s covered with moss. Unless you move left, but then you’re getting onto the Great Chimney routes.
Definitely move to the left. So you didn't go around and see what we left there?
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You’ll be climbing on decades old routes that way....
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Speaking of which, both Great Chimney routes are very worthwhile. You should go climb them because they’re worthwhile, and to figure out where they are compared to Condorks. Hint: the original Great Chimney route is not that far to the left.
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anything next to 'if you bolt it they will come' in the other water streak? also thoes SMC hangars are getting kinda rusty
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"If we bolt it " is one of Clint and Mr.Muds routes. If you think the bolts need to be replaced you should contact Clint. Clint and Bruce are the experts (and John Cook) on bolt replacements for Pinnacles and the contacts for F.O.P and the ASCA for the park.
Is'nt If we bolt it included in the closures?
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"If we bolt it " is one of Clint and Mr.Muds routes. If you think the bolts need to be replaced you should contact Clint. Clint and Bruce are the experts on bolt replacements for Pinnacles and the contacts for F.O.P and the ASCA for the park.
Clint and Bruce are absolutely such experts. But I would humbly suggest that they are two of the THREE such experts that we're lucky to have.
Is'nt If we bolt it included in the closures?
It is closed right now, yes.
And to answer the original question with a question: which of the streaks near If We Bolt It are you talking about?
The right half of the same streak (it's a streak with two parts - "H" shaped) has the one bolt that is shown in the topo. The one even further right is as yet untouched. Both possibilities have been looked at many times by many Pinns climbers with lots of lead bolting experience. And they're still as described above. That'll tell you a lot right there.
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i added John in an edit. John is definitely an expert. Sorry John ;)
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"If we bolt it " is one of Clint and Mr.Muds routes. If you think the bolts need to be replaced you should contact Clint. Clint and Bruce are the experts (and John Cook) on bolt replacements for Pinnacles and the contacts for F.O.P and the ASCA for the park.
Is'nt If we bolt it included in the closures?
That route is included in the closures and no one should be in that vicinity until after July 4th (happy roasting).
That route is also right in a water streak so if the bolts aren't stainless...
It's a relatively recent FA (1993) so I would hope that the SMC hangers are stainless. They can still develop a patina.
Patina is simply the metal's way of forming a stable, protective, oxidative coating and is not the same as rust.
Are the bolts/hangers painted/camo'd?
I can't imagine they used death hangers but the route is 28 years old and I have seen routes of a similar age with those damn things.
That age also raises a strong possibility that the bolts are 5 piece carbon steel.
Geezus! The good news is that 5 piece bolts can be unscrewed, inspected and the hangers replaced.
I have a bunch of SMC stainless hangers.
As far as a last great project - Gavin has spent considerable time on that wall checking out the other potential lines.
He said "no go" as far as a new project and he is a Master's Master of Mud.
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Hey Brad,
Speaking of experts - when did bolting go stainless?
20 years ago?
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The route/project immediately to the right of If We Bolt It They Will Cum will probably go but it has a loose section. I have done a few laps on it after leading If We Bolt It
The next route over to the right on the ramp I think has potential to be fairly good and not all that desperate. I think there might be two over there cannot remember at the moment. Decent rock decent line. Just needs someone to do it.
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Clint and Mr Mud mis named the route....really it’s correct name..If We Bolt It we can get suckers to Climb it and take some nice falls after breaking the rock off.
What a loose route, that cleans up at the top, but Jeezus what a lead.
Let the route be, not worth it.
And that route is on a oven, rock is concave, so it gets hotter than the sun!!!!
Side. Note, for well established routes, prior to rebolting, the FA is consulted.
Chris B I have found to be responsive. I’m sure Clint would be as well.
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The route/project immediately to the right of If We Bolt It They Will Cum will probably go but it has a loose section. I have done a few laps on it after leading If We Bolt It
The next route over to the right on the ramp I think has potential to be fairly good and not all that desperate. I think there might be two over there cannot remember at the moment. Decent rock decent line. Just needs someone to do it.
The bottom of the streak to the right is not good. It might go, but not well....
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Hey Brad,
Speaking of experts - when did bolting go stainless?
20 years ago?
It varied. A lot.
I'd say that the big move from whatever was available (lots of quarter inchers) to standardized at 3/8 inch carbon steel was about 1990 (give or take years depending on the bolter and the climbing area). And from the perspective of someone who was climbing before then - this was a big, big deal.
It was at least 10 years, and probably more like 15 before people started to realize that all those shiny new bolts that we liked so well weren't maybe the very best solution after all. Again, it varied. I know Tom Addison was using stainless up here starting in about 2000. But, as an example, Rob and I used a mix on a route at Weeping Wall (also up here) as late as 2005 (stainless in the streak and carbon outside it). If forced to commit to a date, I'd say that stainless has been the standard for about 15 years.
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Ha Brad, I’m sure Jim used up all his 1/4 and then switched.
Thank god!
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Clint and Mr Mud mis named the route....really it’s correct name..If We Bolt It we can get suckers to Climb it and take some nice falls after breaking the rock off.
What a loose route, that cleans up at the top, but Jeezus what a lead.
Let the route be, not worth it.
And that route is on a oven, rock is concave, so it gets hotter than the sun!!!!
Side. Note, for well established routes, prior to rebolting, the FA is consulted.
Chris B I have found to be responsive. I’m sure Clint would be as well.
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Clint and Mr Mud mis named the route....really it’s correct name..If We Bolt It we can get suckers to Climb it and take some nice falls after breaking the rock off.
What a loose route, that cleans up at the top, but Jeezus what a lead.
Let the route be, not worth it.
And that route is on a oven, rock is concave, so it gets hotter than the sun!!!!
Wow, I thought that I knew that you were into whine.
But I thought it was the liquid variety (even to the point of making it).
Perhaps bowling is for you?
;D ;)
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When the pandemic is over we all need to go climbing and then bowling afterwards in Soledad.
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I complain where it’s warranted.
Plus Mr Mud laughted at me and conceded, “we went up and down so many times that we knew which holds to use, yeah it’s a bit loose.”
Joe did lead it clean and I followed. Probably some of the best moves in the park. Getting to them, sheesh.
Snowing there yet?.
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Hey Noal, Salinas bowl is pretty fun!
We drove over from Pacific Grove to bowl there.
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That was a fun FA. Long route, lowering then leading after every bolt. I think we may have resorted to TR'ing back up after a bit. Had all my hooks blow on one bolt which resulted in a broken drill bit and me almost killing Clint by dropping the drill holder.
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I thought Factor's first comment and Noal's were both damn funny.
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me almost killing Clint by dropping the drill holder.
You must have been using one of those Hurry Canes :lol:
A Roc Pecker would barely clink. :ihih: :devildevil:
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What?
How would you feel if the 1st hod you grabbed broke? And the next 20!
All the while you felt heat radiating from the rock like you were in a pizza oven.
And this was January!
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mmmmm pizza.
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^^^
^^^
Two direct hits again! :lol: :lol:
Got my ab workout laughing :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod:
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How would you feel if the 1st hod you grabbed broke? And the next 20!
You should talk to Gavin about how to "will yourself to be light as a feather so the holds won't pop under your weight."
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Nah, it was one of those old school rawl drill holders, just a chunk of metal with a tapered hole in the end
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I'm a bit late to the discussion here, but just to echo what others have said:
South Balconies (including "If We Bolt It") is in the current closure areas, and should not be climbed until closures are lifted (likely in early July). I was just doing surveys on the west side yesterday and there is a prairie falcon pair occupying the "If We Bolt It" area.
In terms of the feasibility of establishing climbs in the other streaks to the right of "If We Bolt It" - I climbed "If We Bolt It" a few months ago, so I'm guessing I have been on that route and climbing in that area more recently than anyone else. I don't recall the hangers being death hangers, but I think at least some were camo'ed. I think the bolts were carbon 5-piece. I found the route to be harder than 5.11a, especially in the crux section in the lower half. There was still some loose rock with chunks flying off in the lower half of the route, so that might account for the available holds changing the difficulty of the route over time. It's a fun route for sure, and very sustained.
After finishing "If We Bolt It" I spent some hours exploring the streak just to the right, doing solo toproping laps on a fixed line. I had thoughts of potentially developing that streak further. I would say it is not a feasible project - the bottom was abandoned for good reason, as there is a section of perhaps 25-30 feet that is exceptionally loose. I could not see a way to clear enough garbage rock to make it viable. It's unfortunate, because above that section, the rock improves near to the quality of "If We Bolt It" and the top half of the streak has super fun climbing, probably in the 5.10d to 5.11a range.
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I am fairly sure I got the bottom clean with effort. It was the loose section in the middle that kept spitting me off. I figured with work I could get it but would it be worth it. One thing I did try is traversing from if we bolt it to the upper part of the streak. That could be a worthy variation.
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sounds interesting, i didn't give the hangars the best looks but they for sure did not look like death hangars,
to clear things up I was up there the weekend before the closures.
I haven't climbed much out there, and i have not gotten on 'if we bolt it' but i appreciate the insight
looking forward to getting nuclear on that thing in july :puke:
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July :yikes:
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If We Bolt It we can get suckers to Climb it
:)
Glad to see the forum is still operating at warped speed.
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Who are you Klink?
Is this the real Klink Md not JC yanking our chains?
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Who are you Klink?
Is this the real Klink Md not JC yanking our chains?
I called you warped, that should be authentication enough. JC does have a lot of chain to yank. I was fortunate enough to to climb a little with JC, KC, Brad and Caleb over the last couple months. Good to see that you are still messing around and getting in some climbing.
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I think the bolts and hangers are fine
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I am getting out a little.
Hope to see you up in the high peaks
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JC does have a lot of chain to yank.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3f7Le5RGYNnBSVoAPxTgD-u0ixP0Hdw5S7XvtUBZAS8rVaU38bdPGS2JItpnDESxq3MPuuRHsIPT3K-djtEY2EoD8GJk4r4F-XJmzQYF3IurqXrqQeL43geuumc7TOnzNFM7AvVHFG_qP3BaGA7fkJd=w426-h568-no?authuser=0)
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I think the bolts and hangers are fine
I'd be inclined to agree given the FA date but...
I also assume you guys used all long 5 piece bolts - but not stainless.
It would be interesting to inspect the internal bolts - since the route is in a water streak.
That could provide a good benchmark for similar routes.
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That is a LOT of chain. A picture of close to thousand links?
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It was suggested this morning that I pose as a cherub with a bow and arrow on top of a rock, wearing only a harness and gear.
I suppose Photographer's Delight would be an appropriate rock? (My deepest and heartfelt apologies for sharing this, but I remember that a few of my dear friends struggle to cope with the advent of Valentines Day, and all it's imaginative, romantic and glorious possibilities. I hope this helps them in some way as they endeavor to overcome their personal challenges on this day.)
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^^^
How about a loin cloth and a tiara woven out of poison oak?
and don't worry...
We'll all endeavor to persevere :out: :prrr: :ciappa:
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Kink looks like he has some chain to yank.
Climbed St Valentines Massacre today in Valentine’s Day.
Thin about that
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I pose as a cherub with a bow and arrow on top of a rock, wearing only a harness and gear.
please no
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please no
Figured this might trigger a few dry heaves or more.
:)
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...I pose as a cherub with a bow and arrow on top of a rock, wearing only a harness and gear.
I don't understand the controversy. How is this any different than any other day that starts with your climbing purse and ends up... well, like you said.
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Thin about that
You're a regular Ricky Ricardo.
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BITD I made many FFA's in the Pinns...might start a project to do more if things keep going the way they are.
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It was suggested this morning that I pose as a cherub with a bow and arrow on top of a rock, wearing only a harness and gear.
Please shave/ wax 1st....
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it was most likely just cosmetic, but i agree it would be cool to see how the insides are looking.
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The big question is If We Rebolt It Will They Come?
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8)
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The big question is If We Rebolt It Will They Come?
Well, there's only one way to find out. So, I hope that you really, really want an answer to your question ;)
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rock around the clock free?
who wants to play catch
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This is the last great project...
(https://live.staticflickr.com/7564/16261065215_d7b560ea6c_c.jpg)
Intention is to get back to it, if this champion of loose rock in the pic is still up for it!
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the friendly ghost?
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Me?
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Whoa, that’s one hella big chalk bag that dude’s got there!
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Yeah right! I borrowed Munge's bolt kit that day.
One of the funniest parts (besides the big bag) is it took me forever ,like an hour to drill that bolt and the rock was all hollow and crappy. I was perplexed. Turns out the drill bit was totally worn out.
When that photo was taken I had probably drilled less than a dozen bolts from stance and definitely did not know how to hook. Now that I use hooks more I think my approach to this project would be a little different.
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Teapot Dome Traverse. That's the last great project. There's some next level chossineering at offer up there.
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Yeah poor SOD Noal!
Obi-OneMud taught you well!
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Dark Arts. 8)
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Teapot Dome Traverse. That's the last great project. There's some next level chossineering at offer up there.
I could refer you to a good phycologist, since you obviously need one. Your suggestion is what, certifiable?
Oh, wait. You already climb with him.
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I could refer you to a good phycologist
That quack?
Pidgeon crack needs to stay on the list.....
I dream of the day when all the loose rock comes off and we can climb everywhere.
Oh, wait, that's Yosemite!