MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: Atomizer on April 20, 2021, 07:14:01 AM
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Joe and I stumbled up to the citadel yesterday and were surprised to learn that the area is defined by the “hangerless” bolt. I think every route we did or observed had one and they were even mentioned in the old brown guidebook. Is this an aesthetic choice by the first ascent parties? Or did they just fall off. Joe was able to climb through the gap on “Peons” but I was confronted with a much less desirable circumstance on “mission impossible” just moments later. The sixth bolt was gone from its hole, later to be found on the ground minus the hanger. My self preservation instincts told me to bail eventhough I’m sure I could have pulled through with the risk of a 30-40 foot fall on bolts that seems to enjoy being in the ground. Not appealing. I’m curious where I request reimbursement for my carabiner. Is it directly to the guidebook author or does the NPS handle that?
As for the bolt we found at the base. Shaft from a five-piece. And it seemed to be broken off about 2” down from the head in the threaded portion. I did not get a good visual of the hole to see if the sheath was still in there.
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^^^
That is weird Adam because Brad was just out there and said he replaced the bolts with missing hangers on Mission Impossible with ASCA 1/2 inch bolts. Maybe that scrap was something he dropped? He said it was the 1st and 3rd bolts that had missing hangers and those were the ones he replaced. He said he also replaced the top anchor (listed as hangerless in the guide). He said the only thing left was the one hangerless lead bolt on Peon's. The last time I was there I noticed the anchor hangers on Peon's or the whole top anchor could stand to be re-done. That anchor looks like it originally had the old-style Richards hangers on it and someone swapped to something more modern/less thick (Kong-Bonatti) - resulting in tight bolts with floppy hangers. Richards seemed to have had a habit of robbing his own hangers to swap things around or use elsewhere. I found 3 of those hangers on the Flumes (2nd bolt of Drizzly Drain and both lead bolts on Drizzly drain Direct Finish).
We'll have to wait for Brad to chime in but I would think he took a look at all the bolts on the route.
From the Master List
652/654 – Serra’s Guilt/Mission Impossible – top anchor replaced, 2/22/21, B Young
654 – Mission Impossible – bolts 1 and 3 replaced, 4/3/21, B Young
Didn't you have your bolt kit?
The way I look at it - we're all responsible for maintenance.
If everyone was equipped, skilled and willing to interrupt their fun and spend the time to replace things as they find problems, it would be a huge help.
That being said - I really appreciated you getting the problem taken care of on Cataract Corner.
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If either of you was really "stunned," then you haven't climbed at Pinnacles as much as I thought.
Yes, the first ascent party on that route and several nearby had a bad habit of using poor quality hangers, or leaving them off in some situations. In order to avoid repeating the word "hangerless" in the new book, I've been replacing those in particular with new 1/2 inch stainless steel. The hangerless fifth bolt on Peon's is the only one in that area that I haven't gotten to.
Did you even notice that the first and third bolts on Mission Impossible (listed as "hangerless" in the new brown guidebook) were new? If you found a bolt at the base, it wasn't from my replacement of either of those two - I took the removed stuff with me from both bolts and didn't drop anything. I also patched the old holes to invisibility. And if that route's sixth bolt really is missing, then that's new as of the start of April (it was there as of April 3).
As to "reimbursement" for your leaver 'biner? No, the guidebook author isn't' responsible for that. In fact, you owe him double its value for being too obtuse to walk around to the top of Whitetail to rap off and inspect the situation (so you could report here more intelligently) while you retrieved your gear. I'll take my payment in beer. And no, nice intentions that didn't work out yesterday don't count as payment. You still owe me.
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Jonathan Richards hanger on Drizzly Drain Direct Finish
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dxpWj7ubfsf_b54S1nqYzroR22vbyjLbpto-REWJL-9kT8RBsN7eHjro07S1KeV7EKpJ_AKDvGlCeXiDQeQBltjNLitNtUmD2hfvlGbTFquVqMjOljAaqn0MWJYhPkg3Eo-VZXw70-aE7GKT-fXQs7=w473-h355-no?authuser=0)
Floppy hangers on Peon's Delight anchor. whoever swapped these needed to add washers to take up the space left from the original thicker hangers (Richards hangers are about twice as thick as most modern commercial hangers).
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3c0qfuuUGfjdtfn-gKozC3Svn87HOUHybjT_64laPU2b3GVualYNB56-BDyMKsnXlxhpCHTHvJ2iFTEBleD66q9Ptu8UGfF-EZXwmpVA9Df9poXbIq3FWy8Ed1adF8Z2BpxmXo7gKN2MU0aXWLxll2t=w811-h609-no?authuser=0)
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^^^
I'm hoping to replace those top anchor bolts if/when I get to replacing the hangerless bolt lower on the route. This season.
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And tell Joe (since he rarely appears here) that "who cares" if he skipped a bolt on Peon's. Normally he skips every third bolt on most routes anyway. He's tougher than shit that way.
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The story about bolt 6 sounds as suspicious as the experience we had yesterday in Marina.
Brad - didn't mean to imply that you dropped anything and left it but I know that stuff happens when rebolting or working on new routes.
My ratchet drive adaptor is still somewhere out from the base of The Great Humungous as is at least one brand new long 5 piece bolt at the base of Sidewinder.
At any rate, I appreciate the work.
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Brad - didn't mean to imply that you dropped anything and left it but I know that stuff happens when rebolting or working on new routes.
Especially when rebolting. I've dropped and/or sent flying lots of "parts" when rebolting. It's just that it didn't happen here.
What went on in Marina yesterday?
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Is this serious?? :lol:
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Peons was in a little handwritten guidebook, showing the bolts before any were placed. Richards was ahead of his time.
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Didn't you have your bolt kit?
The way I look at it - we're all responsible for maintenance.
If everyone was equipped, skilled and willing to interrupt their fun and spend the time to replace things as they find problems, it would be a huge help.
That being said - I really appreciated you getting the problem taken care of on Cataract Corner.
Hell no! I pay $80 bucks a year in maintenance fees to the NPS. I deserve bolts in all the holes without having to put them in myself!
But seriously, either the first ascensionist took the bolt out or it recently exited its hole via another mechanism. I wouldn't be surprised if Brad happened to just miss seeing the missing bolt...
We also did the new route to the left. Thought it was a little run out to the first gear placements after the last bolt.
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^^^
Wow, an entire post with only one item of truth in the whole ("$80.00").
And BTW, never recommend that this guy carry his bolt kit. I still haven't inspected Cataract Corner to see if his work is OK or second (or third) class. Until that inspection is done, none of his work is considered acceptable.
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^^^
Wow, an entire post with only one item of truth in the whole ("$80.00").
And BTW, never recommend that this guy carry his bolt kit. I still haven't inspected Cataract Corner to see if his work is OK or second (or third) class. Until that inspection is done, none of his work is considered acceptable.
Hahahahah, always so factual. If I correctly recall, the only time we placed bolts together, your's had to be removed...
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Come on Adam, it's a new style. You place your bolts on lead. Follower, removes said bolts.
Aussies do it.
Your $80 went to toilet paper.
Glad to see Joe is back into bolt skipping form!
Happy to supervise replacing the Bolts on Mission Impossible.
I need to take James up Coastanoan and look at Power Tools.
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Hahahahah, always so factual. If I correctly recall, the only time we placed bolts together, your's had to be removed...
It's sad to see this level of mental decline in one so young....
(Have you hit your 30s yet?)
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Come on Adam, it's a new style. You place your bolts on lead. Follower, removes said bolts.
Aussies do it.
Your $80 went to toilet paper.
Glad to see Joe is back into bolt skipping form!
Happy to supervise replacing the Bolts on Mission Impossible.
I need to take James up Coastanoan and look at Power Tools.
I wonder when the NPS is going to figure out that their wax paper doesn't work.
It's also debatable whether that hanger-less bolt on Peons is even important
For some reason I had never climbed Coastanoan. That's a great route. Skipped Power tools because we're both out of shape. Based on the bolt quality of Mission Impossible, I don't have ton of interest. Let me know when your supervisory foray is complete. But i would join if there was a crew.
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...based on the bolt quality of Mission Impossible, I don't have ton of interest.
Yes. Although Mission Impossible has great climbing, it's bolts are probably due for some attention. However, as for me, my priority there is just making sure that there are no more hangerless bolts (so those words no longer have to appear in the text). Although actually, I should look at what may be a missing bolt and will likely do so next time Gavin and I are in there working on the new route that you saw but did not climb.
And, for a bonus, the in-process route you saw but didn't climb: tell me its name? Joe may be able to guess based on the fact that it's right next to Mission Impossible. Since you're only in your 40s, you may not be old enough (you weren't around "then").
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Especially when rebolting. I've dropped and/or sent flying lots of "parts" when rebolting. It's just that it didn't happen here.
Come to think of it, when I replaced the two top anchor bolts for Mission Impossible (both were hangerless), one was a stud bolt that I had to break off (you'll never find the resulting patch either). If I recall correctly, that bolt went flying off into space when it broke off (and if my memory is correct, it doesn't include the where of where it flew off to).
Adam, what kind of bolt did you find below Mission Impossible, and did it include a hanger?
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Come to think of it, when I replaced the two top anchor bolts for Mission Impossible (both were hangerless), one was a stud bolt that I had to break off (you'll never find the resulting patch either). If I recall correctly, that bolt went flying off into space when it broke off (and if my memory is correct, it doesn't include the where of where it flew off to).
Adam, what kind of bolt did you find below Mission Impossible, and did it include a hanger?
Seemed like a 3/8" 5-piece rawl. Specifically the kind with the 3 apostrophes on the head which seem to be on many of the adjacent routes. It was about 2.5" to 3" long and seemed like it might have been broken because the distal end of the shaft surface was not very clean and had a stressed metal look. But it was rusty on that end. I was wondering if it was from the replacement work or the missing bolt. I don't feel like there was a sleeve in the empty hole, but I was more interested in down-climbing at that point than mounting an internal investigation. Is it possible that this bolt hole has been empty since the bolt war?
The bolt shaft was right at the base of the new route without a hanger. I left it on knob at the base of the wall. We never found the first bolt on the Impossible Mission, is that shared with the new route? We didn't clip it because it seemed off route. If it is shared, the seventh bolt is the one that is missing
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Seemed like a 3/8" 5-piece rawl. Specifically the kind with the 3 apostrophes on the head which seem to be on many of the adjacent routes. It was about 2.5" to 3" long and seemed like it might have been broken because the distal end of the shaft surface was not very clean and had a stressed metal look. But it was rusty on that end. I was wondering if it was from the replacement work or the missing bolt. I don't feel like there was a sleeve in the empty hole, but I was more interested in down-climbing at that point than mounting an internal investigation. Is it possible that this bolt hole has been empty since the bolt war?
The bolt shaft was right at the base of the new route without a hanger. I left it on knob at the base of the wall. We never found the first bolt on the Impossible Mission, is that shared with the new route? We didn't clip it because it seemed off route. If it is shared, the seventh bolt is the one that is missing
- I'll have to check when I am there next, but what you found does not sound like any residual of my rebolting efforts.
- Mission Impossible's start, up the tiny right-facing corner, was always left from the old first bolt. I had a hard time finding the right rock for the first Mission Impossible bolt replacement and had move it left some. On our new route we just used that replacement bolt too - but then continued up and left. So yes, the two first bolts are now shared.
- I was skeptical at your early posts because I did in fact check out all the first six Mission Impossible bolts (inspecting by sight from below just to see what I could see). I don't remember seeing or being able to see a seventh bolt (or any above either). At the time I attributed this to it being just too far up to see from below. You may have found a better explanation.
- Not brave enough to guess at our ingenious new route name, huh?
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- I'll have to check when I am there next, but what you found does not sound like any residual of my rebolting efforts.
- Mission Impossible's start, up the tiny right-facing corner, was always left from the old first bolt. I had a hard time finding the right rock for the first Mission Impossible bolt replacement and had move it left some. On our new route we just used that replacement bolt too - but then continued up and left. So yes, the two first bolts are now shared.
- I was skeptical at your early posts because I did in fact check out all the first six Mission Impossible bolts (inspecting by sight from below just to see what I could see). I don't remember seeing or being able to see a seventh bolt (or any above either). At the time I attributed this to it being just too far up to see from below. You may have found a better explanation.
- Not brave enough to guess at our ingenious new route name, huh?
Okay, I just thought it was Joe missing another bolt...
I was less than confident about the quality of the 4th bolt. But Joe did take a sizeable fall on it, luckily without broken ankles.
I would say the new route should be called "Powers Bolts" or "Fixe-ing Bolts"
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The fourth bolt definitely protects the hardest crux. And while it looks okay to visual inspection (and held his fall) it should probably be replaced.
And no, the underway route is called Get Smart. Joe will get that immediately, but as I said, you’re probably too young to have seen either show (unless you watch really old TV shows).
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Got to take that to the NPS claims division. Its part of where we file our first ascents. 8)
How were temps?
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Everyone on this thread owes me a beer.
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You don’t drink beer!
Payment is made in person.
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So many bolts, so little time
I'm going to print up some "MBAP" shirts (Monterey Bay Area P***)
Who wants one?
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So many bolts, so little time
I'm going to print up some "MBAP" shirts (Monterey Bay Area P***)
Who wants one?
Sounds great. Not sure what the P stands for, but I'm down.
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Sounds great. Not sure what the P stands for, but I'm down.
:puke:
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Pink
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51135456879_9859607ec2.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51134897968_abe9797f73.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51135791705_ae9542172a.jpg)
Will have to work on something pink
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Coastal simpletons.....
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Phenomenons
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...Joe was able to climb through the gap on “Peons...”
On Friday I replaced the hangerless fifth bolt on Peon's Delight. I also replaced the two top anchor bolts. All three replacement bolts are A.S.C.A. 1/2 inch stainless steel. The old holes are patched and camouflaged to invisibility.
I did this not because poor, poor Joe had had to lead through (apparently can't or won't read and didn't have anything to go over the hangerless stud?). But now, to my memory, there are no more entries in the book stating that "such and such bolt is hangerless" (J.C., you've got a better memory than me - am I missing any such entry?). Although it was pretty hot that day, and I got significantly dehydrated, I was still pretty pleased when I crossed that "hangerless" language out of the new West Side guidebook text.
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...I was confronted with a much less desirable circumstance on “mission impossible” just moments later. The sixth bolt was gone from its hole, later to be found on the ground minus the hanger. My self preservation instincts told me to bail eventhough I’m sure I could have pulled through with the risk of a 30-40 foot fall on bolts that seems to enjoy being in the ground. Not appealing. I’m curious where I request reimbursement for my carabiner. Is it directly to the guidebook author or does the NPS handle that?
As for the bolt we found at the base. Shaft from a five-piece. And it seemed to be broken off about 2” down from the head in the threaded portion. I did not get a good visual of the hole to see if the sheath was still in there.
Memories are weird things. Adam, you're leaver 'biner was on the seventh bolt, not the sixth.
Since it's so much easier/quicker for me to get to The Citadel than Gavin, I arrived today an hour and a half before him (like last time). Last time I replaced bolts one and three (the hangerless bolts). This time, while waiting, I rapped over Mission Impossible to check out the bolt situation.
And lo and behold, the seventh and ninth bolts were really easy to find...
But the eighth bolt? Well, Adam is serious on occasion and there was an empty hole, just as he described, right where the eighth bolt should have been! So what he found at the base was very likely that bolt.
I inspected the bolt and from looking at the rust pattern on it (can't do photos from here), it looks like very little of the bolt's end threads were ever engaged with the cone (deep in the hole). The eighth bolt protects the route's second crux, at a bulge. I suspect that, over the years, enough people have hung (or fallen?) there that, as with the old bolts on Feed the Beast before it was rebolted, the bolt simply came loose. Did someone then fall or rest on it with some, slight outward pull and then it slid out of the hole sending them on a fall (or maybe a further fall)? No-one has reported any such occurrence, but that seems most likely. That might also explain the missing bolt hanger - it would have stayed clipped to the climber's 'biner and, likely, their rope. Or maybe someone just clipped the bolt and it came out of its hole with their carabiner in their hand?
Anyway, there most certainly was a hole. Empty.
Now, only a few inches away, there's an A.S.C.A. 1/2 inch stainless steel bolt. New, tight and able to hold a fall.
As for your leaver carabiner? God, who still climbs on tiny, weeny little wire-gate 'biners? Those won't hold big people like me. Anyway, I've got it and you're very welcome to drive up to my house and retrieve it any time you want. Oh, and if you do come up? Bring your gear. There's lots and lots of stuff up our way that you haven't even seen, and Pinnacles season is juuust about over.
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But now, to my memory, there are no more entries in the book stating that "such and such bolt is hangerless" (J.C., you've got a better memory than me - am I missing any such entry?).
I updated rebolting info - thanks.
Lucky 13 comes to mind (text says starting studs are hangerless).
Bruce and Clint put hangers on everything a few years ago.
I know of a few other hangerless studs on some west side routes but they are not listed in the text.
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Memories are weird things. Adam, you're leaver 'biner was on the seventh bolt, not the sixth.
Since it's so much easier/quicker for me to get to The Citadel than Gavin, I arrived today an hour and a half before him (like last time). Last time I replaced bolts one and three (the hangerless bolts). This time, while waiting, I rapped over Mission Impossible to check out the bolt situation.
And lo and behold, the seventh and ninth bolts were really easy to find...
But the eighth bolt? Well, Adam is serious on occasion and there was an empty hole, just as he described, right where the eighth bolt should have been! So what he found at the base was very likely that bolt.
I inspected the bolt and from looking at the rust pattern on it (can't do photos from here), it looks like very little of the bolt's end threads were ever engaged with the cone (deep in the hole). The eighth bolt protects the route's second crux, at a bulge. I suspect that, over the years, enough people have hung (or fallen?) there that, as with the old bolts on Feed the Beast before it was rebolted, the bolt simply came loose. Did someone then fall or rest on it with some, slight outward pull and then it slid out of the hole sending them on a fall (or maybe a further fall)? No-one has reported any such occurrence, but that seems most likely. That might also explain the missing bolt hanger - it would have stayed clipped to the climber's 'biner and, likely, their rope. Or maybe someone just clipped the bolt and it came out of its hole with their carabiner in their hand?
Anyway, there most certainly was a hole. Empty.
Now, only a few inches away, there's an A.S.C.A. 1/2 inch stainless steel bolt. New, tight and able to hold a fall.
As for your leaver carabiner? God, who still climbs on tiny, weeny little wire-gate 'biners? Those won't hold big people like me. Anyway, I've got it and you're very welcome to drive up to my house and retrieve it any time you want. Oh, and if you do come up? Bring your gear. There's lots and lots of stuff up our way that you haven't even seen, and Pinnacles season is juuust about over.
Thanks for putting that work in over there Brad. I'm looking forward to checking out Peon's and MI, as I've always wandered past those on the way up to the Citadel.
Nice Sunday for a family hike yesterday (West Side --> High Peaks --> East side --> back along Old Pinnacles trail), I'm sure it got pretty warm up there by the citadel!
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Thanks for putting that work in over there Brad. I'm looking forward to checking out Peon's and MI, as I've always wandered past those on the way up to the Citadel.
Nice Sunday for a family hike yesterday (West Side --> High Peaks --> East side --> back along Old Pinnacles trail), I'm sure it got pretty warm up there by the citadel!
They're both very worthwhile. I'll likely do one more session of bolt replacement(s) on Mission Impossible while there early on this coming Saturday (before the day's real activity starts).
And, surprisingly, we wore jackets at the base of Whitetail for parts of last Sunday. Low temps and a wind kept it cool.
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Lucky 13 comes to mind (text says starting studs are hangerless).
Bruce and Clint put hangers on everything a few years ago.
I know of a few other hangerless studs on some west side routes but they are not listed in the text.
Ah yes, I'll have to check that/those out. But I didn't get that far this season in my text work and will have to do it next season.
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^^^
It's on the Master List - Bruce and Clint replaced all the hangers in 2014. I think some of them are stainless SMC.
Last time I was there (9-23-19) - they were all intact.
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Hey Brad, while on IM, do you mind ticking the good holds?
Asking for a friend....
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I updated rebolting info - thanks.
I know of a few other hangerless studs on some west side routes but they are not listed in the text.
Hangerless studs? I seem to remember having a few beers with those guys.
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"Hangerless studs? I seem to remember having a few beers with those guys."
I know some of those hangerless studs. They live in their vehicles, and you can always tell who they are, because their clothes are always wrinkled.
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I know some of those hangerless studs. They live in their vehicles, and you can always tell who they are, because their clothes are always wrinkled.
clink - where did you learn how to quote?
I guess we need to "double up" on your tutorial when I edu-ma-cate you on how to post pictures.
Sheesh...
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I replaced the second and fourth bolts on Mission Impossible today. With ASCA 1/2 inch stainless.
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The tutorial can happen tommorow at the stairway to seven seagulls.
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The tutorial can happen tommorow at the stairway to seven seagulls.
pre birthday bouldering with clink - Juice the Cucumber Traverse
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3ewazA6vLw_Cd8cV1hMyvvJDdzE7FjIr3Cv53I95LXPrqralAAATYmIm-QRPGuSxxAtdVr7R3TyA66-kCymPCkscQajQOfFUK7rfZt7WoLRdtdyIflNpHmaT8LeiMU3eZcWnKGStrxvFBCEnTV0HnXP=w457-h609-no?authuser=0)
Dueling JC's
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cpJXhi1lBNMDoEbCiEtzrdb-geh4RPZDtMyCmr5w7ZtEDBWDujJCu3Jp6MG8ha9Z404p8nBnqVh1j4N0funB7VjVn8Vgb8-W7UWd037Y9phjqxiF6uUixxqIldn9fT3pFTxLVXaiRmeBfJf8ao7Dww=w812-h609-no?authuser=0)
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Thx Brad
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Brad, thank you for all the hard work you've put in up there. Psyched that you not only replaced the missing bolt on MI but also replaced the 2nd and 4th. The 4th wasn't so confidence inspiring. Plus it's good to know that the missing bolt protected a crux, and that means my self preservation system is working properly. Some of my friends are up there today and are likely to be appreciating your work.
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Brad, thank you for all the hard work you've put in up there. Psyched that you not only replaced the missing bolt on MI but also replaced the 2nd and 4th. The 4th wasn't so confidence inspiring. Plus it's good to know that the missing bolt protected a crux, and that means my self preservation system is working properly. Some of my friends are up there today and are likely to be appreciating your work.
I wouldn't have led through that second crux with the bolt missing.
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Brad, thank you for all the hard work you've put in up there. Psyched that you not only replaced the missing bolt on MI but also replaced the 2nd and 4th. The 4th wasn't so confidence inspiring. Plus it's good to know that the missing bolt protected a crux, and that means my self preservation system is working properly. Some of my friends are up there today and are likely to be appreciating your work.
Adam, was it your friends who seemingly doused the whole route with chalk? Wow.
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Adam, did they mark the good holds???
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Chalk is an important component of rock stewardship.
1-Chalk reduces the erosion of the surface layers by climbers. The most consciousness will not wear shoes and chalk up their feet in a calf bag/pouch.
2-Chalking the proper holds to use puts social peer pressure on climbers like JC to use only the essential holds, rather than showing off fancy hand and footwork and implementing almost every possible hold within reach.
Please be responsible and chalk up.
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Great point Klink!
Everybody use chalk, except that guy who touches all the shitty holds!
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I got bolts five, six and seven replaced on Mission Impossible over this last trip. As of now, bolts one through eight are 1/2 inch A.S.C.A. stainless steel.
Alas, I may however have created a problem. With my tongue only partway into my cheek, I wonder if a climber will get on the route, love the big, solid and new-looking first eight bolts and then look at those above and bail? I hope not, it's a fine, fine climb.
I doubt I'll do any more replacement on this though. Gavin and I finished the route we were working on next to it (Get Smart 5.10a ***). Both of us marveled at the quality of this new line. So did two young guys who, walking by as we finished it, asked if they could climb it. They did and confirmed both the grade and the quality (and that's with a lot of the moss still in place - although not really on the holds that are needed - not all of that moss will remain there in the coming months).
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Gavin and I finished the route we were working on next to it (Get Smart 5.10a ***).
I knew you couldn't stay away.
You should rename the route Big Fat Liar.
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I wonder if a climber will get on the route, love the big, solid and new-looking first eight bolts and then look at those above and bail? I hope not, it's a fine, fine climb.
I doubt I'll do any more replacement on this though.
Make a placard to place after bolt 8 that says "The remaining bolts will self destruct in 5 seconds. Good luck."
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"So did two young guys who, walking by as we finished it, asked if they could climb it. They did and confirmed both the grade and the quality (and that's with a lot of the moss still in place - although not really on the holds that are needed - not all of that moss will remain there in the coming months)."
How much did you have to pay the two young guys to form that opinion?
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^^^
CLIMBERDUDE is back!
Hope you're doing well, Mark, and nice to see/hear from you.
Oh. And um, we paid them $500.00 apiece.
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How much did you have to pay the two young guys to form that opinion?
:lol:
Oh. And um, we paid them $500.00 apiece.
Jeez.....hopefully you need some route "confirmation" on the Pass over the 4th weekend. I'll be nice and do it for $450 a route.
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Oh. And um, we paid them $500.00 apiece.
Yeah...right...
Chance Brothers
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Jeez.....hopefully you need some route "confirmation" on the Pass over the 4th weekend. I'll be nice and do it for $450 a route.
Vicki has authorized me to charge $550.00 per meal to all visitors...
(Naturally though, they're a bargain at any price).
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How about a kid in trade?
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Brad's eyes are definitely brown.
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Climbed Costanoan, Mission Impossible, and get smart on Sunday in perfect weather.
Mission impossible and Get smart are super high quality and we did our best to clean the big holds off ;)
we watched a group of four get stuck rappelling down costanoan. the leader made it to bolt number two on the second pitch and set up a second 40 foot rappel off of a single bolt with the second rope he was carrying :out: :madman:
should consider giving it an X rating in the next guide to keep that stuff closer to the parking lot >:D
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we watched a group of four get stuck rappelling down costanoan. the leader made it to bolt number two on the second pitch and set up a second 40 foot rappel off of a single bolt with the second rope he was carrying :out: :madman:
should consider giving it an X rating in the next guide to keep that stuff closer to the parking lot >:D
I'm afraid that a great quality, four pitch, easy climb is always going to have new climbers on it ("everybody's first multi-pitch"). And new climbers will always result in some weird and occasionally dangerous antics.
It's one of the reasons I wanted The Flying None to have its own completely different set of rap anchors, to take a little of the load off Costanoan.
And I'm glad you liked Get Smart. We were pretty happy with it (also, I just shipped the to-be-installed mussy hooks to Gavin).
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i was wondering if Get Smart would get its own set of Rap hardware, we moved the quicklinks from MI over to it because the MI anchor has seen better days and i couldn't resist the shiny new hardware
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^^^
Well, I'm glad you lived if you used those tiny, tiny quicklinks to lower or rap. Yuck.
And by the way, did you lower or rap? And if so was a 70 meter rope adequate?
I've recently started to wonder if my 70 meter rope might be four or five feet longer than an actual 70 meters and intended to double check my height measurement of Get Smart with someone else's 70.
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By the by, Jennifer and i found the trail up to Citadel (especially the last 100 meters!) to be in atrocious shape. Major pick-ax and sledge engineering needs to take place on the existing steps and more should be added.
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LOL we had a beefier one with us thankfully and swapped that out for one of the skinny links.
we were also climbing as a party of three so I couldn't tell you if a 70 would make it.
Jade found the cruxes on Get smart to be a little more reachy/ height dependent than MI and I think I agree. our buddy that led it is 6'2'' and had no problem whereas Jade and I both had to break out the technique
Regardless both are awesome and I cant wait to get back out there. thank you for all the hard work!!
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Glad you guys enjoyed Get Smart so much - Brad and I were definitely pleased with the result.
I agree about the cruxes too - I definitely had a feeling that climbers with less reach may find the moves more difficult. I will have to get Alacia on the route (she is 5'1") and see what her take is on it.
It's already a high-quality route, and when the mussy hooks arrive I will place those and scrub away some more of the lichen / moss. After a rain or two (you know, in 6-7 months) the route should climb even better.
Brad - I will definitely check the length from mussy hooks to the ground. I'm pretty confident the route will work well with a 70m for rappelling.