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Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: F4? on January 24, 2022, 06:04:59 PM

Title: Best 5.9 in the Monument ranking
Post by: F4? on January 24, 2022, 06:04:59 PM
Here is my stab at it:

1. Lava Falls
2. Little Javelina
3. Wet Kiss
4. Plague
5. ?
Title: Re: Best 5.9 in the Monument ranking
Post by: Gavin on January 25, 2022, 08:46:09 AM
Erm, it's a national park now, not a monument.  ;)

Plague is rated 5.10a, not 5.9... and while I think it's a fun route I don't feel it is at the same star level as the other routes you listed.

Lava Falls, Little Javelina, Wet Kiss - all great routes.

Coyote Ugly would be on my list of top 5.9 routes at Pinnacles too - a spicy lead and fantastic views from the summit.

Lava Falls is my favorite of all those - hard to top the fantastic climbing, length, and exposure on that route.
Title: Re: Best 5.9 in the Monument ranking
Post by: mynameismud on January 25, 2022, 03:03:00 PM
I agree with what is listed maybe add Full Throttle and Rebecca's Sailing.
Title: Re: Best 5.9 in the Monument ranking
Post by: JC w KC redux on January 25, 2022, 03:37:00 PM

Flies on a Pile
Up a Crook Without a Paddle
Swept Away
Grin and Bear It
Title: Re: Best 5.9 in the Monument ranking
Post by: mynameismud on January 25, 2022, 03:38:00 PM
Isn't Flies on a Pile a POS
Title: Re: Best 5.9 in the Monument ranking
Post by: Brad Young on January 25, 2022, 03:48:00 PM
^^^

He's being a contrarian. All four that he listed are very not-so-good routes.

Title: Re: Best 5.9 in the Monument ranking
Post by: F4? on January 25, 2022, 04:17:42 PM
Ah yes Rebecca Sailing.
Okay I forgot about that one

+Rebecca Sailing
-Plague
+3 and 4th pitches of SOD
+1st Pitch of Resurrection
+coyote Ugly

Too much trouble to edit on iPhone.
Title: Re: Best 5.9 in the Monument ranking
Post by: Brad Young on January 25, 2022, 04:36:54 PM
^^^

Jesus Factor, are you EVER going to figure out that the site is operating with some problems right now? Has it occurred to you to read what you write to determine whether it posts properly? "We" are working on it, but it's not back up to normal yet (in quotes because I am totally incapable of fixing it, I am just trying to ease the fix along).

Title: Re: Best 5.9 in the Monument ranking
Post by: mynameismud on January 25, 2022, 04:37:47 PM
Got, missed that.  Typically, that is my role

^^^

He's being a contrarian. All four that he listed are very not-so-good routes.
Title: Re: Best 5.9 in the Monument ranking
Post by: Brad Young on January 25, 2022, 04:41:52 PM
^^^

Well you missing that is understandable. John has never been anything other than incredibly, and rapidly helpful. Ever.
Title: Re: Best 5.9 in the Monument ranking
Post by: JC w KC redux on January 25, 2022, 05:46:47 PM
^^^

I want a roll!

Maybe clink will bring me one tomorrow morning and I can ...nope...cannot eat that. Try again  :yikes: :nonod: :lol:
Title: Re: Best 5.9 in the Monument ranking
Post by: F4? on January 25, 2022, 06:04:13 PM
Where is the admin?
Title: Re: Best 5.9 in the Monument ranking
Post by: clink on January 25, 2022, 08:02:08 PM

 I get the idea that F4 is super smart and even more bored.

 There are a few 5.8s on your list, no 5.10's.

 Jorgie's
Title: Re: Best 5.9 in the Monument ranking
Post by: F4? on January 26, 2022, 07:01:49 PM
I know, I try!
My inspiration was I lead (clean) Little Javelina on Monday.
It got me marinading about other 5.9s and which is the best or rather 2nd to Lava Falls.
Plus Mr Mud said he would give me $10 to start a thoughtful topic.

I always though Jorges was 10a.
According to the holy book of young, its 5.9.
Imn not going to argue or complain.
Its all good.

Next thread is top 10a routes
Title: Re: Best 5.9 in the Monument ranking
Post by: JC w KC redux on January 27, 2022, 08:29:26 AM
^^^
Nice job on Little Javelina.
Dances With Warthogs and Swine Flu are really good too.

I thought Jorgies was hard. I got to the piton and choked. I never went back. I could not do Stupendous Man that day either,
This was around the same time I led the new Goat Rock routes - 9 and 10a - upgraded to 10a and 10b.
Where's Waldo is stellar too. I led all of them onsight.
So go figure about Jorgies.
Title: Re: Best 5.9 in the Monument ranking
Post by: Brad Young on January 27, 2022, 08:56:18 AM
^^^

Jorgies involves tricky, semi-liebacking at the crux. It's not a set of moves that are common at Pinnacles.
Title: Re: Best 5.9 in the Monument ranking
Post by: JC w KC redux on January 27, 2022, 10:10:17 AM
^^^
Jorgies involves tricky, semi-linebacking at the crux.

Is this the same technique that is needed on Why We Play Football?
Title: Re: Best 5.9 in the Monument ranking
Post by: F4? on January 27, 2022, 10:23:51 AM
Agree Jorgies Lieback section is no joke.
To me it is the transition from lieback to moving left.
Holds are polished.

Trauma? Fly-bye?
Fun ones as well.
Title: Re: Best 5.9 in the Monument ranking
Post by: Brad Young on January 27, 2022, 10:28:07 AM

Is this the same technique that is needed on Why We Play Football?


How in hell would I be able to remember such an obscure route done soooo long ago??
Title: Re: Best 5.9 in the Monument ranking
Post by: JC w KC redux on January 27, 2022, 10:44:54 AM
How in hell would I be able to remember such an obscure route done soooo long ago??

semi-linebacking

It was a joke.
Title: Re: Best 5.9 in the Monument ranking
Post by: JC w KC redux on January 27, 2022, 10:53:14 AM
Agree Jorgies Lieback section is no joke.
To me it is the transition from lieback to moving left.
Holds are polished.

I made the mistake of getting on that route in full sun around 10:30 or 11:00 on a warm day. It was the first route of the day (I am always nervous starting out) - so between the heat, the stemming stances to place all the gear and the nerves, I was pretty blasted by the time I got to the crux - then I could not decide how to attack that next section and just burned out (literally).
Title: Re: Best 5.9 in the Monument ranking
Post by: Brad Young on January 27, 2022, 11:05:22 AM
^^^

Old people do not get jokes. Unless they are Dad jokes; those are different.

I missed the typo. It is fixed now.

Remind me to beat you when I see you next.


Title: Re: Best 5.9 in the Monument ranking
Post by: mynameismud on January 27, 2022, 11:09:42 AM
Jorgie's is more mental than technically hard.
Title: Re: Best 5.9 in the Monument ranking
Post by: waldo on January 28, 2022, 07:43:29 PM
Though seldom done, I've always liked Baile de las Aguilas out Gargoyle way
Title: Re: Best 5.9 in the Monument ranking
Post by: F4? on January 28, 2022, 07:58:56 PM
Great Waldo!

Never forget when I was egged on to lead the Jorgies extension.
Good times!
Title: Re: Best 5.9 in the Monument ranking
Post by: JC w KC redux on January 28, 2022, 10:23:48 PM
Though seldom done, I've always liked Baile de las Aguilas out Gargoyle way

That route scared the crap out of me getting to the first bolt. Goes on the never do again list - but thanks for the reminder.
Title: Re: Best 5.9 in the Monument ranking
Post by: clink on January 29, 2022, 07:11:28 AM
Quote
Though seldom done, I've always liked Baile de las Aguilas out Gargoyle way

 Translation-My name is Waldo, I occasionally like dancing with Death and when I do drink beer, it's Tecate. Someday my bones will be picked clean by eagles, and I will ever watch your coming and goings.


 
Title: Re: Best 5.9 in the Monument ranking
Post by: Brad Young on January 29, 2022, 06:49:57 PM
Excuse us mother for we have sinned. Bob and I put in a top anchor/rappel today that requires a quite awkward start (off the summit and onto the face). Quite awkward, and then down a chimney (which is at least wide enough for the remaining part of the rappel to be comfortable).
Title: Re: Best 5.9 in the Monument ranking
Post by: Brad Young on January 29, 2022, 06:56:40 PM
^^^

And all the while there was available an easy, low-angle start to a rappel that we could have used.
Title: Re: Best 5.9 in the Monument ranking
Post by: Brad Young on January 29, 2022, 07:44:52 PM
Of course, every other possible line of rappel would have dumped the rappel rope and then the rappeling climber directly into poison oak thickets.

But at least it would have been easier to start
Title: Re: Best 5.9 in the Monument ranking
Post by: waldo on January 30, 2022, 10:00:11 AM
Of course, every other possible line of rappel would have dumped the rappel rope and then the rappeling climber directly into poison oak thickets.

But at least it would have been easier to start

Had we done so and if you did not already have an itch for climbing, you would for sure after you unclipped from the rap.
Title: Re: Best 5.9 in the Monument ranking
Post by: waldo on January 30, 2022, 10:02:39 AM
Translation-My name is Waldo, I occasionally like dancing with Death and when I do drink beer, it's Tecate. Someday my bones will be picked clean by eagles, and I will ever watch your coming and goings.


 
Clink, eagles or beagles, I care not
Title: Re: Best 5.9 in the Monument ranking
Post by: F4? on January 30, 2022, 05:03:53 PM
Hyjackers!!!
Title: Re: Best 5.9 in the Monument ranking
Post by: JC w KC redux on January 30, 2022, 09:12:46 PM
Hyjackers!!!

We all take turns sitting in the Rodney Dangerfield seat.