MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: F4? on February 18, 2022, 03:29:31 PM
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Climbed spike peak and after crushing dances with wharthogs
We found a new route left of dances.
10a
I call it Baconator
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^^^
Are you holding back to let suspense build or are you a victim of punctuation again?
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He is now Factor 1.5.
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I try
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This was all there was of your post before you edited it.
Climbed spike peak and after crushing dances with wharthogs
I do not see the deadly apostrophe in your edit.
You "found" a route left of Dances?
Which one? There are 4.
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Climbers right of bacon bits. Climbers left of dances with whart hogs. More right of W hogs.
We found. 2nd climb next to baconbits but could not figure hot to finish.
Much harder than Bacon Bits according to Marc.
I just found bigger holds than him.
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It is called Hole Hog 5.8 ** first ascent last Sunday by me, Gavin and Fletcher. Starts just inside the chimney. Twenty feet of chimney climbing to 80 feet of wonderful holes. Finish at a separate two bolt anchor.
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It is ten feet right of Bacon Bits.
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Hole hog Nice! We enjoyed it.
Felt a wee tricky in a few spots.
Now is there another route in there?
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I got shut down on a Joshua Tree 5.7 today. Thirty feet of unprotected face to an up and right seam. I backed off the seam even though I had good pro by then. Seemed way harder than 5.7.
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Nice
It was a stellar day in the high peaks, with a few obnoxious clouds.
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After down climbing I rested and tried it as a foot traverse instead of as a hand traverse. It looked so totally improbable that way, but it went. It was even approximately 5.7.
I then tried the hand traverse on top rope. At least 5.10a. And with a crux way away from where the pro was.
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Gotta say
Those moves were thin with small foot holds.
10a?
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Are you asking about my route in Joshua Tree today or about Hole Hog? Hole Hog was consensus 5.8.
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Hole hog is fun. Great to see another cool route added to the area.
I felt there was 1 steep section that got my attention.
It felt a bit harder than Bacon Bits, but maybe it was learning the moves.
But we did not have the time to climb Bacon Bits to do a better comparison.
Great job guys.
Dances WWH what a route!
Pumpy start going out left (right side took the brunt of the moves), good rest part way through and the holds kept appearing when you needed them.
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F4 - glad you liked Hole Hog and Dances With Warthogs. I think they both turned out well and I'm glad to have put in the bolting efforts to establish them.
I had eyed the Hole Hog line for the past few years, then tried it on toprope a couple weeks ago, then started work on it. I invited Brad and Fletcher to assist and we were able to finish it up in a couple days. I placed 9 of the 13 bolts (11 lead bolts plus 2 anchor bolts), and spent an hour or more trying to at least scrub / clean off the most obvious loose stuff... I think it will clean up well over time.
I was nice and gave the first lead to Brad. ;)
I don't think Hole Hog is harder than 5.8... the multiple pockets always give the climber options even when the wall is steep.
Have you climbed Swine Flue, the next route in the slot past Bacon Bits? It is very fun and has great views from the high, middle summit of Spike's Peak. I was working on that a few years ago in August - very hot and sweaty work stemming between the two faces while drilling on stance!
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Nice Gavin!
I figured it was your work.
It was funny since we found the top anchors
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Yeah, it was funny for another reason too - I was conducting raptor surveys from near Tilting Terrace yesterday and saw you guys up there. I looked through a scope and thought, "I think that is F4..."
Glad you both enjoyed the routes!
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Yeah, it was funny for another reason too - I was conducting raptor surveys from near Tilting Terrace yesterday and saw you guys up there. I looked through a scope and thought, "I think that is F4..."
Glad you both enjoyed the routes!
Agreed Gavin, they are all fun. It is a special area. Thanks again.
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I was going to tell the bird guy we saw on the trail to ring you up saying 2x guys were complaining about a raptor crapping on them!
I need to use an Orange shirt to look like JC.
Edit:
Gavin, was that you on top of Muchshitty? I saw someone scrambling the wrong way up there (North to South vs South to North)
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Footage from Friday. I am still working on synching music to the footage.
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Pretty cool for the first 60 seconds.
I remember getting to that big ledge and being pretty gassed.
I told Gavin I was going to stand there for a half hour or so to let my forearms recover.
Did Swine Flu the same day. Full body stem at the top of the chimney to switch my forward foot and step into the crux was interesting.
That climb was really fun for me to pull off and supremely protected. Good luck to any short people.
Sadly, I have no pictures of either lead - but I have some great memories.
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HA!! JC I was in the same boat with Dances, I got to that ledge and wanted to take a nap.
Nice job leading both!!
My right side was feeling it for sure.
But I was lured by the next sequence of holds, which made me want to just continue.
I'll cut the video down. I tried speeding it up, meh, still too long.
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HA!! JC I was in the same boat with Dances, I got to that ledge and wanted to take a nap.
Yep - I wrote in my log that the climb is so good it is stupid fun. I was intimidated getting started but I got two cams in that hole and then launched into all those solid holds. I was pumping pretty good through the first 3 bolts but the holds are all there and you just have to keep moving. The upper part after that ledge still has some challenge and a lot of nice moves with a crazy amount of holds to choose from - it just keeps on giving. Gavin had me lower off to belay him on TR but the pull was atrocious (imo) so I went around and belayed him from above. I'll be curious to check out the new 5.8 if I can get back to leading that level.
I have to be able to see properly first.
Thanks for posting and the atta boys. All those climbs in the chimney are fun - too bad the staging is such a PITA. Needs a backhoe and a dump truck to haul off all that loose talus underfoot. Waaaaaah... :crying:
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I prefer to stage on top in the winter.
I can imagine in warmer weather the base would be just just right.
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I can imagine in warmer weather the base would be just just right.
It is a nice spot for a hot day - stays shady all day (except the top/walk off).
My biggest gripe was I could not see squat in the chimneys. I have light sensitivity so that does not help.
I also found all the loose talus underfoot to be annoying and your belayer needs a riot shield for all the rock that comes off the back wall while you are chimneying. I am not sure that back wall will ever clean up - geologically it is why the chimney formed in the first place. The front wall is great with all those holes, and excellent rock quality.
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I just noticed I accidentally used a contraction in my last post and it was not truncated (I removed the apostrophe since noticing it).
Is the fix in?
I still see weirdness on the new routes page so I guess no.
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I found it was really helpful to have a headlight for the first half of "Hole Hog". I tried it first without the headlamp and then with one - suddenly I was able to see holds, especially when starting the chimney when holds are not as plentiful as higher up. The talus is a pain, but I kind of carved out a better belay stance in the talus near the beginning of "Hole Hog" while belaying Brad and Gavin while they were drilling during the route preparation.
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Finding the bolts was hard and we even started left on Bacon Bits
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I've climbed everything up there except Hole Hog (tried with and without a headlamp and I still had a hard time seeing). Every time I'd look up I would be blinded by the change in light. I had to just feel my way up the chimneys and hope I encountered the bolts along the way. Maybe the bolts should have LED backlighting with Tesla lithium batteries.
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Pink hangers!!
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Pink hangers!!
I was thinking a pink filter on the LEDs
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Even better permanent draws on the routes.
Save weight having to lug up the trail 13 draws. That some serious weight.
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Even better permanent draws on the routes.
Save weight having to lug up the trail 13 draws. That some serious weight.
Get a chimp.
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If only if I couldn't I'd have fun.
[This was a test post regarding posting with apostrophes, which I haven't been able to do].