MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: russ p on May 17, 2022, 07:18:15 PM
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Well we went back yesterday and climbed both Book of Leon and Chubby Rain, both were excellent. Noal had commented that people were being surveyed as to which route they liked better. First of all, I would like to say that both were highly enjoyable.
Both my partner and myself without hesitation would have to say that Book of Leon takes the prize. That last pitch is what sealed it! Plus the fact that it is a multi pitch is a bonus. Enjoyed the second pitch also, not many pitches in Pinnacles that are strictly gear protected, so that was pretty cool too.
Kudos to all who contributed to putting both these fun stellar routes up!
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So cool you guys did both routes! I think both of them have some of the best rock quality at Pinnacles and super fun climbing. It stays cool there too.
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not many pitches in Pinnacles that are strictly gear protected, so that was pretty cool too.
Go back and climb Casper. I used gear to 4 inches. No bolts except the anchor.
From my log - I took cams from green alien to #3 camalot (doubles) and one #4 camalot, plus a few medium and smaller stoppers. I probably could have also used my #5 and #6 camalots and all my stoppers and tricams (didn't have those).
Noal coached me on this lead.
It was part of the journey that led to Eye Candy and Fern Grotto.
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It was part of the journey that led to Eye Candy and Fern Grotto.
Who's biography? :)
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JC did a great job leading Casper. As far as the route itself goes it is super mossy/dirty and the rock quality is just o.k.
Liebackers Lullaby comes to mind for a good all gear protected route on good quality rock.
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JC did a great job leading Casper. As far as the route itself goes it is super mossy/dirty and the rock quality is just o.k.
Liebackers Lullaby comes to mind for a good all gear protected route on good quality rock.
Agreed. Definitely no comparison between the two as far as quality goes. I thought the first pitch of Liebacker's was pretty scrappy, awkward and not many places for gear. There were also few places for gear on pitch 2. As with all gear routes, there comes a point where you have to just climb and not get consumed by placing gear every move.
Not to mention Liebacker's is sunny and closed for Raptors.
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Liebacker's is similar to Book of Leon in that you have to pay an entrance fee to get to the buffet.
I felt like the 2nd pitch of Liebackers was well protected. Most of the placements were solid pockets, parallel cracks. Casper on the other hand, has more marginal gear in so-so rock. If you only used the best placements there might be less than the second pitch of Liebacker's. Alternatively, you could sew it up and some of that stuff might slow down a fall.
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Last time I was at Yaks Wall many years ago on a sunny December both my partner and I got the PO so bad we both had to get a cortisone shot. That was a real eye opener & a lesson learned.
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Poison Oak is good for you. Hell, it formed a lot of the basis for J.C.'s personality :P :P
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JC and poison oak is definitely an itch he can't scratch.
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Damn it! The back of my neck is starting to itch. Hope it’s just psychological…
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Poison Oak is good for you. Hell, it formed a lot of the basis for J.C.'s personality :P :P
ESAD
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50267956402_5f3ddc131e_z.jpg)
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Definitely not scratchable.
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ESAD
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50267956402_5f3ddc131e_z.jpg)
Or, apparently, in your case: Catch Poison Oak and Die.
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Looks like orange marmalade
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Looks like orange marmalade
:lol: :lol: :lol:
That also has to be my least favorite flavor in jams or jellies.
I'd take a case of PO in a heartbeat over what I've got now...but that is a different story...