MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: NOAL on August 06, 2022, 08:35:25 PM
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It's still hot but not crazy hot. Saw no climbers in the West Side parking or on the usual things.
Saw nobody in the booth. Did see Dan the volunteer man and we talked about parts of the park that are devoid of sound and places in the park that maybe humans have never been. Stimulating conversation. Dan is a cool guy. In fact, a tourist asked him the best place to eat in Soledad. His suggestion? Mariscos Puerto Angel. Gotta put that in the new guide book.
Other new things. Someone tagged the rock where you cut off to go to Citadel. Shepard? Turns out they also tagged all around the entrance to the caves and in the caves. Incomprehensible. I have no words.
A big ass tree fell across the trail around the cutoff for the Elephant. Big like 2ft diameter big. It's blocking the trail and the new way to avoid the PO that goes behind the long shady rock. Now you gotta go the PO way again. Mega debris.
Also I finished rebolting Power Tools . Did some stick clipping and jumaring today. Lots of ants. Did not eat any but they got all over me during sandwich break.
Until next weekend,
I bid you adieu.
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Thanks for all of that Noal, and the work on Power Tools!
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Productive and appreciate the trail update.
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That's got to be some kind of record - one person rebolting a route that has 35 bolts.
Sheesh - nice work dude. :thumbup: :biggrin: :arf:
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Thanks!
I replaced 29 bolts total. It took about 6 trips.
The 35 bolt count might come from the 3 bolt anchors. All of the anchors are now 2 bolt Fixe hangers with rings. On a couple of anchors I left one of the old 3rd bolts as a cool historical element. You can rap the route with a 60 meter and pulling the rope is super smooth and easy.
Everything from pitch 2 and up has been replaced. From the start it appears most folks do the variation Hand Tools to Power Corrupts to the anchor.
I left the bolt on Hand Tools. It is a Metolius hanger with a 5 piece. There is no rust and the bolt is snug.
For Power Corrupts I replaced bolts 4,5, and,6. I also tightened the first bolt. It appears it was loosened by working the crux.
It was a fun project and once we replace the rest of the bolts on M.I. The Citadels and Whitetails most popular routes will all have good hardware for years to come.
BIG THANKS to Greg Barnes at the ASCA for sending out all hardware and supplies. Support the ASCA and make a donation if you can. Also big thanks to Brad for his helpful input , support ,and being in on the conversation with Greg. Thanks Brad! Also, thanks to BAP for coming out one day to patch some holes and keep me company.
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Nobody better ask me why.
I only know I'm gonna try...
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Thanks for all the hard work Noal! And I enjoyed your jokes and stories.
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^^^
He's always got great jokes and stories.
But that day he found a package of string cheese that had been in the bottom of his pack FOR SIX MONTHS? And he then ate it, arguing that "hey, it's sealed!"
I'd watch out for this guy....
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The cheese was a turning point.
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The cheese was a turning point.
...in so many ways.
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But that day he found a package of string cheese that had been in the bottom of his pack FOR SIX MONTHS? And he then ate it, arguing that "hey, it's sealed!"
Was your name Alexander Fleming in your past life?
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Pretty nice in the shade yesterday. Had an interesting day. Headed up to finish the bolt replacement on Mission Impossible. When I got to the notch between the Citadel and Whitetail I saw a Condor perched on the rib of rock to the right of where the notch pinches down. When it saw me it flew over to around the anchor for Peons delight.
I continued up the notch. Suddenly a head peeked down over the edge. Another Condor. I turned around and went back to the bottom of the notch and sat on the rocks there. At this point I could see the first one looking at me doing the turning the head action. He was a good distance away but was obviously curious about me. The one at the top of the notch just stayed there looking down towards the parking lot.
I drank some water, took some photos, and waited for the one in the notch to take off. I waited awhile. About an hour and a half. After about an hour I heard the one on Whitetail take off. Ahh good but no not good it had decided to get a better look at me and landed about 2ft from where I was sitting. Yikes! I then slowly stood up and walked all the way to the start of Flying None.
After they were gone I hiked up the notch and looked towards the parking lot. They had joined about six others and were catching some air currents.
Ate lunch and replaced two bolts on M.I.
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Thanks for the update.
I would bet money one of those birds was #92.
He came to Goat Rock when Gavin and I were there and tore up Gavin's pack and chucked one of my bolt bags about 20 feet.
He does not scare easily.
Gavin says to try and shoo them off. Sound like you were just enjoying hanging out.
We hollered and banged on stuff and he just looked at us like "What is your problem?"
If I am not mistaken, that guy in the SNL skit was Colin Quinn - former MTV Veejay (100 years ago) and good friend of Denis Leary.
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92 was sitting in the notch. The one that landed next to me was a youngish one too. Pink head.
Also forgot to mention. With all the graffiti the park closed the balconies caves.
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Thanks for my morning story/update! I could watch condors all day long! ;D 8)
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I seem to recall that maybe #92 had a kid with one of the other birds (#63?) a couple years ago.
Maybe he had his offspring out teaching it to be as mischievous as he is. :devildevil:
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Gotta work tomorrow. Too bad because it's gonna be 105. Should cool back down to the 90s by the weekend.
I guess the road has been closed to the west side during the week for repaving/roadwork. I can't imagine doing roadwork in that heat.
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^^^
I guess the upside of doing that work is that everything everywhere would feel cool after you got off work.
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Once you’ve sat in an electric chair and survived, all other chairs are extremely cool and comfortable.
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Thank you clinker.
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That's just cruel that the seats in the construction equipment are electrified. It's bad enough that they have to work in that heat.
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I know
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Nice work on the rebolt!
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Arrived in the West Side lot around 5:30 PM on Thursday — 93 and nobody else in the lot! I haven't seen the Park deserted in decades. Walked around with the grandkids and had a picnic. Beautiful!
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93 as in Farenheit?
I sweat just thinking about it.
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It was 90 something on Sunday but that did not stop the climbers. One party on Flying None, one on Costanoan, one on Lava Falls, somebody climbing at the Flumes, and one group that headed off to the High Peaks. Some like it hot.
Other entertainment included watching some Euros for ten minutes trying to figure out how to open the garbage can. A guy that was either on shrooms or frying on acid in the parking lot wearing just shorts and crocs, drinking a large container of oat milk. Wanted to let us know we could power everything on earth with liquid air. Learned some cool history about mining at Pinnacles from Dan the volunteer man.
Finished replacing the bolts on Mission Impossible.
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Arrived in the West Side lot around 5:30 PM on Thursday — 93 and nobody else in the lot
That's a dream come true. Must've been very quiet and serene.
The closest I have come to this is 2 cars but it was 105.
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Thanks for the update dood.
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Where's the update dood?
I saw it was nice and cool down there this past weekend.
Supposed to be a heat wave here at the beach nut hut this weekend.
Forecast for Pinns looks like a record breaker Sunday - 110 :madmax:
Still training at 167 for 30 minutes every other day...
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You will have to watch reruns.
Labor Day, Memorial Day, and 4th of July have to be the worst weekends to get on the road. Traffic, accidents, drunk drivers, and just loads of morons.. Anywhere near a beach is out of the question.
The only good thing about this time of year is all the douchey people leave
town and go to burning man. Santa Cruz must be semi tolerable right now.
What is 167?
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I guess that means you didn't go.
I wouldn't know about Santa Cruz. I try my best not to go there.
Yep - everyone will be flocking to the nearby beach this weekend with the holiday and impending heat waves in the valleys.
167 is the temperature of the sauna I am using.
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167? Are you a goose?
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Sous vide?
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Ever been goosed while cooking?
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Ever been goosed while cooking?
it's a hazard we older chefs must endure.
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We may have to get some A/C. I’m a fog baby now. Is Gavin now a flavor of jerky?
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Ever been goosed while cooking?
Only in a sauna.
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Jack?
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You think I'd get in a sauna with him?
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What are friends for?
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Headed out to the Ctadel yesterday with a few friends. West Side was very quiet. We saw maybe a dozen people pass through the parking lot while we were casually loading our gear then veeery casually packing the car back up at the end of the day. One other climber came up when we were around the second anchors. I led The Flying None, we had another team on Costanoan.The Flying None was amazing, especially pitch 2. That combination of position, exposure and steepness is very rare on 5.7s, I feel like. I also luxuriated in the bolt spacing. Great work by the FA team to find it, clean it and equip it. It was fun to have the two climbs side by side, with similar anchor points, so we could jawjack back and forth. The day was warm, but that mostly just affected the hikes in amd out. The climbs were very pleasant, mostly in the shade until the last pitch or so.
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Your comments have me wondering about The Flying None. Obviously, Jenn and I spent days and days on it. But I haven't climbed it since the first ascent. It seemed fun then and well positioned. But still pretty dirty.
I wonder how it is now, with time, ascents and rain?
I'm running out of routes I haven't done there. I may just have to climb this route again this coming season and compare it in my minds eye to how it was when we put it up. Maybe bring some bolting gear just to check bolt tightnesses while I'm at it (you know, channel my inner J.C.).
Glad you enjoyed it.
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It was pretty clean and solid. Neither my follower nor I pulled anything off. It's seeing enough traffic that the first 2 1/2 pitches can be traced visually from the ground by absence if lichen and slightly fresher, pinker rock. Upper lower angle sections are pretty dirty, but I think that's probably the glut of route options and the lack of bolts to lead a specific line.
Iirc the only pro I placed in the chimney section were a .4 and .75 C4 and a #10 offset nut. I never found any knobs anywhere on the route I felt confident to sling. Not sure if the ones mentioned in the description were victims of traffic, or if I have just been spoiled by iron hard Shuteye knobs and don't have the constitition for anything slightly hollow sounding that you have. ;D. That being said, I never felt the need for any with the bolt spacing, and was just looking for them because they were mentioned.
But yeah, definitely worth a revisit imo. The 2 of us who climbed it want to climb it again, and the 2 guys who were on Costanoa want to go back and try it. And I thought that second pitch was truly steller. I'm glad you guys made it accessible. It would especially be a helluva hero pitch for someone new to leading 5.7.
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What is 167?
heart rate
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I knew it wasn’t your IQ
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How to climb between a main formation and its outlier when both sets of rock are too loose?
Push the rock firmly back into place! Way to go Marco (working on what's gonna be a no star - unfortunately - 5.7 on a very big, never climbed pinnacle called, because of the rough/burley nature of the climbing, The Thug):
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52644929652_f98c32c838_c.jpg)
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37
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BAP is a goddamn hero. Above and beyond to help some pretty... well let's say not-smart people. Way to be a kind person, Jenn!
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It’s a good route. Glad that section of rock got bolted.
I had seen it when I climbed coastanoan…saved me the work of scrubbing and bolting.
Nice job!!
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^^^
WTF are you talking about??
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Where there is an alley, there is a thug. Occasionally a really good restaurant, but still keep a lookout for a thug.
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Is BAP giving free counseling?
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Leave Marco alone. You guys are a bad influence on him.
Actually just here to ask what type of bolts y’all are using on your FAs. I’m planning on getting into trouble.
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Leave Marco alone. You guys are a bad influence on him.
Actually just here to ask what type of bolts y’all are using on your FAs. I’m planning on getting into trouble.
We're using exclusively quarter inch buttonheads. Carbon steel, of course.
And you, planning on getting into trouble? Sounds like you plan a class on introspection.
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Actually, Adam, too long an answer to keyboard. Feel free to call me though, I'm 99% sure you have the number.
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Flying None
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Jenn's heroism started with a husband/father approaching us in the parking lot and saying: "I fucked up, could you please help us?"
With a three year old, a six year old and a wife who looks like she fell and hit her face (literally, I'm not being mean - Jenn later said that she may have had a concussion). It took them five hours to walk to West Side parking along Chalone Creek from Old Pinnacles Trailhead. By now it is 5:00 p.m. and they have one light jacket between them, one pack that is about the size of an old grade school tin lunch box and nothing else. The mom looks fucking, fucking pissed, the kids are exhausted (they're innocent here) and the dad is too pooped to carry them. Oh, and they're wet from the knees down.
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He has no wallet (left it in the car - but Ok, most of do that) and is mystified that there's absolutely no cell reception....
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…and…
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…and…
Great minds...
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Brad must changing into his 49ers kilt and grabbing those red and gold pom-poms.
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She should finish the story.
Let's just say that I wasn't very sympathetic. I suppose I've done enough hiking with tougher than hell daughters or something. I was tired and had a four hour drive home. I suppose I was very helpful though when I told the dad that no, no ranger was coming to the parking area: the ranger truck that occupies the end parking spots has been there in the same spot, immobile for more than ten days now and wasn't a sign that any ranger would show up. It seems to be broken down.
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And man his wife looked fucking pissed.
There's a guy who's gonna be lonely for a while no matter how many 49er kilts he puts on.
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Then the guy asked if one of us could drive them to the nearest town, he said he could call his friends to pay for a motel room for the night, and they would hike back to the east side the next day. So I offered to drive them. Then (gosh, I wish he'd never done this, but he did)...He mentioned they left their dog in the car parked on the east side. He said "Well, the dog will have to spend the night alone, but I think she will survive"... "She is old and she has been sick lately." Why did he have to mention the dog??!! :-\
Needless to say at that point, I had to drive them to the east side...for Pete's sake. (Pete is my dog's name.)
They were very thankful, the man even gave me an almost new 70 m rope (It turned out that he used to climb until 6 years ago after he started a family), and promised to send me some other goodies.
And I now know the best way driving from the west side to the east side, a beautiful way too. So the day ended good after all.
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You should have seen her eyes when he mentioned the dog. Everything changed.
And thanks to Caleb too. He apparently coached Jenn's "south-county" driving by an emergency phone call when she had questions about which road was which.
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Yes, Thank you so much Caleb.
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BAP happens (The opposite of Shit happens)
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‘BAPs happen’ on the other hand is exactly like ‘shit happens’
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‘BAPs happen’ on the other hand is exactly like ‘shit happens’
By the way, they are from Fresno. ;)
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Peninsula rules. Santa Cruz fools.
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Peninsula rules. Santa Cruz fools.
Peninsula rules, because it is part of the Bay Area!
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BAP happens (The opposite of Shit happens)
Amen to that! Great work, BAP! Kids and dogs don't deserve incompetent adults.
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I resemble those comments!
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There's some bushes with white flowers that smell real good.
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There's some bushes with white flowers that smell real good.
Not really my favorite smell, but the wildflowers sure are pretty right now.
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Ok. Here's some happenings of the day.
Got called sir by a climber in their 30's
Saw some dirty hippies with dreadlocks take their two dogs onto the Balconies trail.
Watched people sit in cars in the parking lot waiting for parking spots like they were at the mall. One guy got super aggro and accused another driver of jumping in line. The whole time they could have parked in the jawbone parking.
Saw a climber giving a tutorial in the parking lot to other climbers with a rope. The whole time the rope was sitting in a pile on the asphalt.. Second most important knot after figure eight follow through was the alpine butterfly. I learned a lot!
Talked with Dan the volunteer man. Did some climbing, took a nap, and enjoyed the weather.
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A tale of two posts Noal. I’ll take the first one please.
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Wow, sounds like I missed some drama! We were the fifth or sixth car that got turned away from the Chaparral parking to the overflow this morning, around 9:30. But there was no line and everyone was still in a good mood at that point. Machete Ridge was unexpectedly empty. When we hit the base of Bullseye there was a team on p1 of Old Original, but they were moving much quicker than our jibber-jabbery two teams of two, and that was all we saw of them. I kept waiting for some disappointed people to show up stuck behind us, but no one ever did. Lots of activity on The Flying None, though.
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The parking lot drama always happens in the late afternoon. It takes on a different kind of wackiness in the summer. Looking forward to it.
Nice that you guys had the Old OG pretty much to your selves. I could hear you guys from up near Chubby Rain.
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A couple weekends ago I hiked in from Metz Rd on the Westside. My first car was a 69 Toyota Corolla with no power steering or brakes. On the drive back we could turn off the motor and coast down sections of this road, one for quite a distance. I always wanted to walk it.
The Jawbone connector trail was new for me, I like the views of Resurrection, The Western Front, and those formations where Brad tried to be Mary Poppins. I left a note on JC and KC's rig in the parking lot and headed back to Metz.
There were days when mine was the only car in the parking lot.
Brad persuaded me to take a little time to post up some pics from that day.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52805003355_aa1b9b9202_z.jpg)
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You just used all the free space on your Flikr account.
See if you can get Brad to pay for your upgrade.
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52804861604_80ba61329b_z.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52804049632_20a6f40dd8_h.jpg)
Can someone please agree with me that something is very wrong in this last picture!
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Ok. Here's some happenings of the day.
Got called sir by a climber in their 30's...
Thanks for the laughs Noal.
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You just used all the free space on your Flikr account.
See if you can get Brad to pay for your upgrade.
Nope, 865 left
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Can someone please agree with me that something is very wrong in this last picture!
There was a size problem but forum fairies must have fixed it. Looks like a zoom shot that went a little out of focus. Is that Spike's Peak?
The cow shot is interesting - looks like the start to a hall of mirrors.
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There was a size problem but forum fairies must have fixed it. Looks like a zoom shot that went a little out of focus. Is that Spike's Peak?
The pine tree looks like a frigg'n cell phone tower! I insist that Gavin chop it down!
Once the current designers of cell phone towers, that are trying but miserably failing to make them look like natural trees see this, they will say "Good enough." The evolution of design will then be stunted at this atrocious state of development, like a fish with feet and shoes.
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I've stayed home this weekend, but climbed at Table Mountain on Friday.
In over 30 years of climbing there I've never seen flowers like what I saw Friday going across the top of Table Mountain. Actually, come to think of it, I've never seen such diverse and dense flowers anywhere. The colors were amazing and the guilt significant too (there was no way to walk to The Far Side without crushing flowers along the way).
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OK, cue up one of the J.C.s making a comment about "dense flowers."
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And wonderful photos there, Clink. Seeing shots from your training makes me regret that we had to cancel!
Let's both stay alive until we can G.E.T. out there, yes?
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The pine tree looks like a frigg'n cell phone tower! I insist that Gavin chop it down!
Part of my weekend included dropping two fir trees that died last autumn. The largest was a foot in diameter at the base and 50 feet tall. I'm always pleased when I can drop a tree like that right where I want it. Three cuts (they have to be done just right!) and timber, right along the burn pile I've been building up.
So maybe I'm your guy if that cell tower has to go? Do you think they'll let me carry a chain saw up to the High Peaks?
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The pine tree looks like a frigg'n cell phone tower!
What's wrong with that?
Just a matter of time...
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I've never seen such diverse and dense flowers anywhere.
Density and diversity go hand in hand - as long as we remember to be inclusive and equitable.
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Let's both stay alive until we can G.E.T. out there, yes?
Yes,
Got a 20 oz
/30 degree bag this week
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52805156011_c44ec5be49_z.jpg)
it's a left zip JC
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it's a left zip JC
Zip it Zippy.
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nice pics
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Damn your good deeds, Noal! Andrew sat on my sandwich. >:(
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Uh oh. I was only gonna give one of them a ride. Did you still eat the sandwich?
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No. It was under his butt all the way to where we dropped them off.
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You should have locked him in the car and made him eat it.
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A whole crew of climbers went with me to Kasperak's Ridge and The Hanging Valley for guidebook checking and photos. We climbed a fair amount, some of it on pretty obscure stuff. There was more laughter than commonly; I think because of some of the absurdity of what we were doing (Marco already posted the shot of me trying to throw the rope over Wart - no-one wanted to solo it but we wanted to try the moves, which turned out to still be 5.8 - slightly overhanging and almost 5.9, but still the original 1962 rating).
Mikayla led Wizards Wall with Helena belaying:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52878285233_ee0c4e811b_c.jpg)
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Several of us toproped Sorcerer of Slab which is still definitely 5.9. Glad I led it once and wouldn't lead it again.
Then to The Hanging Valley. Marco and Mikayla did Teeter Tower - Short while Shane and Helena did (believe it or not!!) Hidden Pinnacle. Hidden involves a tree climb (one of the sources of the day's laughs - totally absurd):
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52877388212_68a7f84632_c.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52877833521_8ba6b7172a_c.jpg)
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After doing some of the short stuff in The Hanging Valley proper and doing a complex helmet recovery (not my helmet, but J.C. - we needed you!!), we all summited The Overlook (class four and, near the end, some brush, but such a view!!):
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52877251882_d32d0a5d09_c.jpg)
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No. It was under his butt all the way to where we dropped them off.
Alright, one of you two needs to cough up an explanation.
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Looks like you guys had fun and got some excellent photos.
I like that reaching around photo of Mikayla leading and the one with summiteers on Teeter and Hidden is great.
I wanted to climb some more of those routes but never got the chance. Someone promised me a day out there but then shit happened.
It looks like Hidden Pinnacle may fade into obscurity when that tree goes (it doesn't look good in the photo). They seemed to have gotten up it in short order. Last time I was out there was May of 2018 when we did The Overlook and Chamber of Secrets.
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Noal - you look like Dorf in that lineup! :thumbup: :yesnod: (sorry man - couldn't resist) :devildevil:
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Oh, and the route Cracklin' Rosie? It lived up to its name.
But at Pinnacles getting to the summit is everything ;D
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Alright, one of you two needs to cough up an explanation.
Some climbers missed the last shuttle. I gave one a ride in the van and Shane let the other two ride with him. One dude sat on his sandwich. Shane's helmet fell in a chasm, we trashed his new chalkbag, and a guy sat on his sandwich.
There are a lot of Dorf pinnacles around there.
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Shane's helmet fell in a chasm, we trashed his new chalkbag, and a guy sat on his sandwich.
Proof that bad things come in threes.
There are a lot of Dorf pinnacles around there.
Amen!
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Postmortem on the Chalk Colander is there's actually only one hole that blows all the way through the inner liner, so it lives on, and with an excellent story in its history!
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That stem off the other side of the gully-thing on Wizards Wall looks super fun. Reminds me of the back and forth on the thing we were working on the other day, Brad.
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That stem off the other side of the gully-thing on Wizards Wall looks super fun. Reminds me of the back and forth on the thing we were working on the other day, Brad.
Well, yes. Except that I am a doddering old geezer who wears true shorts (dinosaurs call them short shorts). And Mikayla isn't ;)
Looking forward to finishing what we "were working on" two weeks from now. Fingers crossed for acceptable weather.
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Saturday I have to say this was one of the funest climbing days I have had in awhile. Visiting Hanging Vallley was an awesome reflection on the history of Pinnacles climbing. I had the foresight to bring a copy of the Roper guide so we could compare info from then to the 2007 book.
Kasperak's is the earliest ascent in the area (1946) The other routes (what we climbed) were done by a group of 5 climbers on two dates in 1961. This is probably the first time since then that a group of the same size returned and did a "re-enactment" of that day in 1961.
In the Roper guide it mentions the group all climbing the 4th class route on The Wad by different paths which is essentially what we did after climbing the other routes.
Not until I reached home had I realized the similarities between Saturday and that day in 1961.
Also, Helena being from the Czech Republic informed us that Kasparek in Czech means Jester!
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cool
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Also, Helena being from the Czech Republic informed us that Kasparek in Czech means Jester!
According to MountainProject, "The name of this area, and the pinnacle within it, is undoubtedly a tribute to Fritz Kasparek an Austrian mountaineer who was part of the four-man team which made the first ascent of the Eiger Nordwand in Switzerland in July 1938." https://www.mountainproject.com/area/120120673/kaspareks-ridge (https://www.mountainproject.com/area/120120673/kaspareks-ridge)
So the guy was Austrian but being neighboring countries, last names obviously permeate both ways. A little bit more on him can be found on Wikipedia https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fritz_Kasparek (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fritz_Kasparek)
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I joined a group of groupies enroute to the Rolling Stones.
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Looking up to the High Peaks there is a window through a pinnacle that I hadn't seen before. Mud's Lair?
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I missed getting pics of the majority of the group as they were climbing in earshot but out of sight, on my hike up a pre-fire suppression trail towards Mechanic's Delight. Lovely day
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Nice photos! Did you hike into the park again?
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Nope, I drove. On the way out I stopped by the roses to detox from being in that corridor with both Brad and JC at the same time.
Actually, I stopped to break my fast with an avocado, and mainly because of fear of using a knife to cut it open and remove the seed while driving.
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Actually, I stopped to break my fast with an avocado, and mainly because of fear of using a knife to cut it open and remove the seed while driving.
Totally doable while driving. Best place to do it is right as you hit that roller coaster dip after you turn on the road to the West side. I usually floor it right there take both hands off the wheel ,throw them up and scream "Throw yo hands in the air if you's a tru playa!"
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Totally doable while driving. Best place to do it is right as you hit that roller coaster dip after you turn on the road to the West side. I usually floor it right, there take both hands off the wheel ,throw them up and scream "Throw yo hands in the air if you's a tru playa!"
Ha! I scared the crap out of a couple of my buddies the first time I took them to the West Side. They didn't know it was coming until suddenly they were floating against the headliner of the car. >:D
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As usual, I am surrounded by freaks.
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As usual, I am surrounded by freaks.
It seems like you invite it. Good day the other day.
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Loaded up a new pack and did a little scrambling/bouldering in the shade on Saturday. No climbers in sight, must have all been on the 108.
I know, too far north for the "the".
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it was nice to climb out of the fog layer and see the sun at Pinnacles! I made it to the fog/sun break or battle point in Big Sur on Sunday. 95% of the hike was in the marine layer, a mostly grey and white experience. No guac, just avocados.
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There are no snow peaks though.
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Nice
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Brad, I think you made the right call on those socks. It took me at least 25 minutes of concentrated effort to clear my and Bonnie socks of stickers.
Unrelated, what was that overhanging 5.6 you mentioned, and where is it? Was it on BLB?
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The overhanging 5.6 is on The Rolling Stones. It's called Ockham's Hairbrush. The Rolling Stones are in the seventh of seven parts of the new routes thread. And that part is temporarily on page seven (not where it should be on page one).
Bonnie Lass Buttress is on the same page/same part.
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Primo, thanks. I'd forgotten about the page 7 situation. That explains why I didn't get any hits for Digby when I searched page 1.
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Went out to Juniper Canyon yesterday with Marco, Mikayla, and Brad the guidebook guy. Climbed some of Marco and Gavin's new routes. Got scraped up in a wide crack, led a couple of fun 5.7's , TR'd a super good 10b, and did a 3 pitch easy 5th adventure climb. It was a fun day. Route of the day goes to Shadow of the Colossus. Good rock and fun climb. Here's Mikayla getting started on the route.
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...and Brad the model husband and wonderful, near-perfect father.
Fixed it for you.
And some of us got a little more than scraped up in the wide crack (Choss Fetish). Although maybe it's something I ate; I just walked into a rose bush walking the dogs with Steve. And now that leg's bleeding too.
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That looks like a nice streak. Is that the crux since she is reaching for some white courage?
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Fixed it for you.
And some of us got a little more than scraped up in the wide crack (Choss Fetish).
Yes you are so much more than the guidebook guy. That's right, Brad dinged his leg pretty hard transferring into the crack. Do you still have a golf ball thing going on?
Is that the crux since she is reaching for some white courage?
No, the crux is higher up. If the crux was that low I would not say it was a really good route. I think the move over that lower overlap is maybe 5.8
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Yes you are so much more than the guidebook guy. That's right, Brad dinged his leg pretty hard transferring into the crack. Do you still have a golf ball thing going on?
No, the crux is higher up. If the crux was that low I would not say it was a really good route. I think the move over that lower overlap is maybe 5.8
Leg's less swollen. The muscle that flexes the leg inward (as in holding your body in the crack by swinging the leg forward) is sore. How about you?
And judging by the amount of grunting and swearing Mikayla chucked out at that lower bulge? At least 10a.
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I didn't hear any swearing or grunting. She cruised the whole route. There was some of that going on for the chossy Crack. Especially when her approach shoe got stuck.
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I didn't hear any swearing or grunting. She cruised the whole route. There was some of that going on for the chossy Crack. Especially when her approach shoe got stuck.
You'e so damn honest! I swear I thought I heard some.
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Glad you liked the route, Noal - the line for Shadow of the Colossus caught my eye the first time I went out there with Marco. I thought it turned out well. Definitely some interesting sequences moving up through it.
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And judging by the amount of grunting and swearing Mikayla chucked out at that lower bulge? At least 10a.
Woah there Mr. Young! If Mikayla ever saw this message, I would say I hope you know a good lawyer because that is Slander.
She cruised that route with no hesitation, making it look too easy for her.
Always have a bunch of fun climbing with Gavin. When we were working on the route, we were brainstorming Titan names as at the time I thought the formation was called the Titan not Colossus. It wasn't until talking about the completed route with Brad that I realized I had mixed up formation names.
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Gavin as per usual is the true hookmaster and resident confident climber. Notice there is only one bolt on the route in this picture. Gavin working on current bolt 3.
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Went out to Juniper Canyon yesterday with Marco, Mikayla, and Brad the guidebook guy. Climbed some of Marco and Gavin's new routes. Got scraped up in a wide crack, led a couple of fun 5.7's , TR'd a super good 10b, and did a 3 pitch easy 5th adventure climb. It was a fun day. Route of the day goes to Shadow of the Colossus. Good rock and fun climb. Here's Mikayla getting started on the route.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372644922_5106830c25_b.jpg)
Odd how Mikayla is wearing a shirt that is identical in color to the one Gavin is wearing in the photo above. I thought at first that you'd accidentally put a photo her where you meant to put one of Gavin. But no, the helmets are different. And Gavin is clearly drilling a bolt.
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What I want to know, the screw depicted on the construction hoodie, is it stainless?
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Went out with Brad and a friend of mine who's very occasionally around here yesterday. We toured the High Peaks, modeled for Brad, and did a little climbing. I've now got my shot on Photographer's Delight, did some 4th class solo/scrambling, and something with "an alpine character" according to Brad, who wanted a photo from way off. It's up near the outhouse on the top of the ridge. The climb itself was wall to wall carpet (moss), with an awkward rappel. Oh well, still had fun.
And yes, Brad's still feeling the offwidth from a few days earlier.
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The climb itself was wall to wall carpet (moss), with an awkward rappel. Oh well, still had fun.
Trying to think what this could be. The awkward rappel part is throwing me.
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I’m always awkward rapping. Yes, both kinds of rapping.
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You would look good in a track suit, Kangol cap, and Adidas. Don't forget the dookie chain.
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Trying to think what this could be. The awkward rappel part is throwing me.
Pun intended?
New rule - all posts should be vague and result in a guessing game.
The climb itself was wall to wall carpet (moss)
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Trying to think what this could be. The awkward rappel part is throwing me.
It's a route up below the Scout Peak outhouse. It goes to the summit of a big formation called The Clipper. I wanted photos that would show something different than the usual straight up or down shots. And which would illustrate that not all climbs go straight up something anyway; some are mountaineering type routes (that is, they go to a summit, usually by the easiest means possible, using long traverses if needed - you know, like climbing in the bigger mountains).
I'm hoping that there's room for one of these two shots in the guidebook (Elaine, in red, leading, and Natalie, in blue belaying/following):
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Not sure why pulling the rope was hard for them. Lots of things can happen and it was a pretty normal pull when I did the route. Needless to say, they did what was necessary and got their rope back.
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Thank you oh great mystery revealer!
I am one of the few other people that has climbed that route. I went out there and Kat didn't want to follow so I just went back. I sent you a pic of me out on the prow but it wasn't great. I like the first picture. The wall to wall moss was a red herring.
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Actually J.C., it was the pic of you that got me thinking about getting a more unique shot, one that shows the whole thing.
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Ahh. I know that rock. To the right of the tunnel.
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Thank you oh great mystery revealer!
I am one of the few other people that has climbed that route. I went out there and Kat didn't want to follow so I just went back. I sent you a pic of me out on the prow but it wasn't great. I like the first picture. The wall to wall moss was a red herring.
Well, the "outward bound" front side of each of the mini-summits was nothing but moss. A cool route none the less, though less exposed than I was expecting to feel before starting it. The photos are genuinely neat though.
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Well, the "outward bound" front side of each of the mini-summits was nothing but moss.
All right - I didn't remember how mossy it was. Here are some notes from my log;
I thought this was really fun and it had me chuckling and grinning before during and after. I would give it a star. I did it in my approach shoes because of all the moss.
The downclimbing was a little tricky and the holds were solid, good sized but sparse. Brad brushed off the essential holds so I could see where he went. I just took my time and figured it out.
The black moss is very thick and you would definitely not want to do this thing if it was wet. It was fun though and I would do it again. Climbing back makes following unnecessary (which would be a drag unless you back belayed by leaving screwlinks on both bolts (an easy way to negate any danger).
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When I hear that name it reminds me of the scene from Little Man Tate
"Clipper Ships by Fred Tate"
"Me and my dad make models of clipper ships."
"Clipper ships sail on the ocean."
"Clipper ships never sail on rivers or lakes."
"I like clipper ships because they are fast."
"Clipper ships have lots of sails and are made of wood."
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All right - I didn't remember how mossy it was. Here are some notes from my log;
I thought this was really fun and it had me chuckling and grinning before during and after. I would give it a star. I did it in my approach shoes because of all the moss.
The downclimbing was a little tricky and the holds were solid, good sized but sparse. Brad brushed off the essential holds so I could see where he went. I just took my time and figured it out.
The black moss is very thick and you would definitely not want to do this thing if it was wet. It was fun though and I would do it again. Climbing back makes following unnecessary (which would be a drag unless you back belayed by leaving screwlinks on both bolts (an easy way to negate any danger).
I did follow, and it was dry, so it was fine in that respect. I agree about the downclimbing. I had one small section I used for a left foot kinda crumble away at the bottom of the first downclimb, but it was fine. Climbing back does save you from the slog up the scree back to the beginning, which I found the least enjoyable part of this one.
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Some followers would not be pleased. Leading it is fine since you are essentially on TR for the downclimbs (although there is too much rope stretch for the belay to be very meaningful at a certain point). Following you are SOL on the downclimbs as far as protection goes - just enough to keep you from falling into the abyss if you were to tumble completely off (not likely).
Mr. Mud would just free solo it. :yesnod: :lol:
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in Teva's
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Naked.
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And by full moon (double meaning there?).
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where are these amazing looking lines! Someones should work on a guidebook to the Pinnacles!
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And so the mystery began (seen from the uphill side of the pinnacle):
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Closer up (that doesn't look like a piece of nature):
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It's a rock with a hole in it. There are a lot of rocks with holes in them around there.
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It's a rock with a hole in it. There are a lot of rocks with holes in them around there.
Yes. Obviously. Aluminum was certainly once a rock. Or part of one.
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Definitely a rock. Extremely rock-like.
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That's a very nice hanger. Somebody put some work into that. Probably only got used once. Good thing cause aluminum is very soft.
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Checked out some boulders in a streambed by Crowley Towers. I was like who would even go down here?! Then went back up some brushy stuff and led this 5.6 chute thing that was pretty good.
We saw a bunch of hikers. I yelled at them but they did not yell back.lame-o's. Later when we were hiking out some of the lazy ones were sitting on the trail. I let them know that the balcony bumps were primo napping territory and to keep it down.
Saw the bird guy climbing. We yelled at him but he was too far away to hear. Also saw these other guys climbing some really chossy looking stuff. We didn't yell at them. Thought it might spook em. Funny thing is when we hiking out we could not find them.
This weekend making korean tacos in the parking lot post climbing. Might be some Miller lites too.
Merry X-Mas.
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Here's my update: yesterday while cleaning out my office some, I found a "lost" box of 2007 Pinnacles guidebooks. It's not full, but there are about 15 of them that I did not know existed.
I'm thinking of selling at least some of them. Perhaps for more than the original asking price of $35.00. Would $50.00 be outrageous? The point would and will be to start paying off ahead of time the tens of thousands of dollars I'll be spending soon (18 months or two years?) to print the new, upcoming book.
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Get the authors to sign them and sell them for $500 apiece. You keep $100, doubling your $50.
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eBay. Cash out and retire.
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Here's my update: yesterday while cleaning out my office some, I found a "lost" box of 2007 Pinnacles guidebooks. It's not full, but there are about 15 of them that I did not know existed.
I'm thinking of selling at least some of them. Perhaps for more than the original asking price of $35.00. Would $50.00 be outrageous? The point would and will be to start paying off ahead of time the tens of thousands of dollars I'll be spending soon (18 months or two years?) to print the new, upcoming book.
I'd be happy to ask about having these at Touchstone, if that was of interest to you. I don't think $50 is outrageous at all.
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I'd be happy to ask about having these at Touchstone, if that was of interest to you. I don't think $50 is outrageous at all.
Still thinking of what to do. I won't do Ebay, but I'm talking to a friend who might do it for me? I'll feel bad if I sell them through one gym and don't have any to supply others.
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Make a backyard bonfire and pretend it never happened. :devildevil:
Start it with a copy of Fahrenheit 451.
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Let the visitor center at Pinns sell them at normal price. I remember when the Good the Great and the Awesome was between editions. It was on Amazon and Ebay for crazy prices. Went in the shop at Whitney Portal and there was a big stack. I was really happy.
If someone was on a trip visiting Pinns and forgot their book (or got lost using Mt. Project )they would probably be pretty stoked to get a copy.