MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: F4? on March 06, 2007, 08:57:47 AM
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For me, its:
Buffalo Soldier -It's been 10yrs and about time I lead that sucker
Cataract Corner- Haven't touched it, might as well start working it
Rock around the Clock- New route, need to get on it, W-side though
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Buffalo Soldier and Cataract Corner are great choices. They are two of my favorite routes in the park. As for the third, I've never been on it.
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Karl! When are you going to climb down at the Pinnacles??
Rock Around the Clock is a new route that Clint & Bruce put up (they need to stop nabbing stellar lines and leave some for us :lol: )
It's up on Machete Ridge next to Bill's Bad Bolts. It has a little A1 and some sections can be freed at 11.
I followed my partner up Buffalo Soldier many years ago. Man, that last sequnce to top out was tricky.
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Karl! When are you going to climb down at the Pinnacles??
I've been down there twice since I started climbing again. I'll probably get down there as soon as it cools off.
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My project is to finish the guidebook. The assembly is done up to route # 850, out of total of 879 routes on the master list. I sent the printer an old Chockstone Press Valley guidebook as a sample regarding paper type, binding quality and front cover material. This is going to be a physically robust book (and expensive to print, but worth it). Hold your breath people, I may once again have a life!
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This is going to be a physically robust book
It's not going to be too heavy? Might have to leave it in the car, but then again I'd have nothing to sit on while eating lunch. That's what guide books are for?
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Actually you're going to have to choose between bringing the guidebook or your rack.
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The Verdict was my project, but on my last attempt I fell on the last hard move before the chains, moving to the crimp right above the last bolt. At the time I had not made the move using the crimp so I did not know where it was. Now that I know where the crimp is I'll be sending the route next time I get down to Pinns. (Hopefully, I am not being over confident.)
Side note: There were two real strong dudes from Santa Cruz down there that both onsighted The Verdict without too much difficulty, thus insiring me to get stronger.
So soon I'll need a new project and I am trolling for suggestions...
Future Shock?
Hard as a Rock?
Black Dagger?
This Bolt's for You?
Anybody got some recommendations from that list or something else?
Evan
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So soon I'll need a new project and I am trolling for suggestions...
In that range.
Foreplay
Ranger Bolts to the first chains
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Time Stands Still ( you can protect the move to the first bolt with a large cam) or stick clip (bring a tent pole).
Richnacks Revenge
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My project for the year. Ranger Bolts and Deck Chairs (formally known as Way Below the Direct).
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In that range.
Foreplay
Ranger Bolts to the first chains
Good choices. I think Foreplay is easier leading than TRing. Or maybe I've been on it leading when I've been strong.
Black Dagger: Way hard, burly boulder problem.
Who's pulled it?
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Everyone except you.
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Everyone except you.
DIE!!!!
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Thanks for the suggestions. Unfortunately, I won't be making any progress this weekend as I am heading to some big ditch. Apparently there are a few good climbs there too.
Evan
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Tell us more about that big ditch? Is it on Sonora Pass? If it's not on Sonora Pass it doesn't exist.
Note to Mr Mud: DIE!!!
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so true F4, so true.
heh
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Project list this year...
-Dropping 8 more pounds to get back to climbing weight
-Getting back to running 30+ miles of trails and hills every week
-Topping out on a big wall
-Lead clean as much of the crap I fell on last year as possible
-Not be so negative when I do fall
-Some High Sierra classics (Moongoodess, Fishhook, something...)
-A few more kickboxing and possibly jiu-jitsu tournaments
-All of this while still managing to get my work done on time so I don't get fired.
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Yo Ubber, you need to include finishing your route on the eastern front. I didn't see a red sling on it when we were there last.
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Bulging Puke
Freak Show
SPH projects (low, mid, and high elevations, including choss)
5.10 cracks in Valley (cool temps season only)
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Pine Line on El Cap- no falls or hangs... after that, 5.11 in the valley. I am hoping to be the first person to skip 5.8, 5.9, and 5.10 altogether. Mr Mud, any recommendations for easy 5.11's in the ditch?
Jake
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Texas Chainsaw Massacre!
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Well according to mudworm the Enduro Pitch is 5.9. For me however, that is the second hardest pitch on the climb.
I have heard that the 11's or 12's whatever they are over by staircase falls on the apron are pretty soft. Oh, The first 5.11 pitch on Beggars Buttress is a good choice. If you can do Midterm you can do that pitch.
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Practice your chimneying and then go send The Tube. The crux move is easy if you're a chimney master... which I am not.
Evan
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Staircase Falls area has that one 5.11 that allows one to say 'they solo'd 5.11 in the Valley' since it is listed as a route, not just boulder prob.
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i'd like to solo Moonlight.
also would like to tag Langley, Muir, Whitney, and Russell in a day.
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DAM
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i'd like to solo Moonlight.
also would like to tag Langley, Muir, Whitney, and Russell in a day.
QUADFECTA!
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Figured it was time to raise this topic from the dead and revise my goals (too much caffiene tonight due to work):
Planning to split my winter this year between Valley and Pinns. After tasting the first 3 pitches of the Rostrum, my goals for the next 12 months are:
- Spending a lot of time in the Valley at Arch Rock, Cookie Cliff, Reeds, and Pat & Jacks
- Improving my thin crack and off-width technique
- Doing Leaning Tower in a push (Chris - you and me, only 6 pitches if we link, no hauling)
- Convincing Salad to attempt Skull Queen again
- Lead Ali Baba, Lava Falls, Broken Arrow, POD, Volcanic Panic, and Big Pucker at the Pinns. Also, lead the first pitch of Son of Dawn.
- Hit J-Tree more than once this year and lead Exorcist, Rollerball, and a bunch of other stuff
- Spend LESS time doing FAs/bolting
- Spend MORE time projecting routes
- MUST do some High Sierra (Moongoddess, Fishhook, Patricia Bowl, etc.)
- Get back into cardio shape
- Avoid injury
- Project the Rostrum until I can redpoint it
- Somehow keep my job in spite of my goals...
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I like the avoid injury part.
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Ubber, Lava Falls is wide open. Now is the time to do it in the early am.
I stil need to get on Buffalo Soldier and Catract Corner. Better yet, Rock around the Clock needs to be climbed.
Have fun on LT. I think waiting for your turn in line is the true crux.
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Time Stands Still ( you can protect the move to the first bolt with a large cam) or stick clip (bring a tent pole).
Richnacks Revenge
Richnak's is a great route...
I want to get back to trying The Verdict at some point. It's been a few years now since I was on it.
Mostly, I just want to get on some 10s and maybe some 11s if I feel strong enough for them...
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I disagree with the claim that the moves to the first bolt of Time Stand Still can be protected with a large cam. A cam would go in, but the bottom teeth in the horizontal placement would be in kitty litter. I doubt it's possible to get any decent cam there. Maybe a really big one crammed in as tightly as possible? To the ledge below the bolt is easy climbing. From the ledge either do a short stick clip (not my style), or boulder up to clip (scaring yourself silly in the process).
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"Spend LESS time doing FAs/bolting"
pft, weaksauce
do you even kn0w what the stand3rds ARE?
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Standards?! You know I have no standards!!!
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please....save the standards for RC.com
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My list is about the same as last year.
1. The 11's
2. Ranger Bolts
3. Put up two routes
4. A wall
5. Climb somewhere new
6. Sierra Route
7. Solo Cup
8. DownieVille under 3:21
9. A Halibut
10. Get my wife to enjoy climbing again. Not many people know that you can half freeze to death at the Pinns on a warm 90 degree day, fewer still enjoy it.
Here's ta sweat in your eye
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We have standards here, they are just a little bit lower than that other place.,
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Get your wife to enjoy climbing again, or get her to enjoy being a belay slave? Your wife should be for climbing. Uber is your belay slave. Try to tell the difference.
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I miss uber
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oh get a room already.
lol!
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Get your wife to enjoy climbing again, or get her to enjoy being a belay slave? Your wife should be for climbing. Uber is your belay slave. Try to tell the difference.
I'm the one with nicer legs.
j/k mudworm!
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I miss uber
I know. I miss me too, sometimes.
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- Finish off The Frog (two routes, Tuff, and Volcanic Panic. Uber, you out there? Second weekend in November, two days at The Frog);
- Lead the three 5.11s I haven't done at Discovery Wall and the two I haven't done on The Balconies;
- Two FAs (Undisclosed locations. One is already planned with Factor);
- Hit 775 (I'm at 741 now);
- Climb more than 4 days there with Mr Mud, although what I'd hoped to climb with him may have to change (I'd hoped to help him finish Splatter Matt and Raze the Budda. Who knows, maybe he can belay and I'll move the routes up a little.)
- Enjoy one day climbing at Pinns with Dawsons on which someone recognizes Laura as the model on the new book front cover;
- Non Pinns: Hardd, one El Cap route (Micha's already told me I have to do Tangerine Trip with him this year - sigh - fukkin' lot of work and I'm old), and, most seriously, one day climbing with my friend Ron, just one good day, by which day he will have finished chemo and be rebuilding strength toward leading Crack-a-Go-Go for his 68th birthday (I don't pray, but please God, just this once make it a sure thing?)
- And, not related to climbing: four county highpoints with the girls, 60 miles on the PCT with them too, finish paying off the house, and get down to 20 hours per week at the office.
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- Finish off The Frog (two routes, Tuff, and Volcanic Panic. Uber, you out there? Second weekend in November, two days at The Frog);
I might be in for that. I want to try to send VP...
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Anyone want to run up some easy routes in the Valley this fall? There are plenty of routes that I haven't done...
One that I want to do is a link-up of Royal Arches and Crest Jewel. I don't know how solid I'd be leading the 5.10 stuff up high, but the easier stuff should be no problem. :)