MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: mungeclimber on April 24, 2007, 10:06:51 PM
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"the 3rd bolt (I think) on Future Shock on the Monolith. It is a 3/8 by 3 and it wiggles a fair amount. It is the bolt everyone false on when blowing the clip after the crux moves. It is kinda scary." per Mr Mud post on st.
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That bolt does make the crux a bit intimidating.
The second pitch of Peregrine. This has the potential to be a fun hard pitch, all it needs is a couple of good bolts in each crux.
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But what to replace the bolts with? Another 5 piece Powers? I like the theory/ idea that the epoxy would support the lip of the hole...but not sure if that would work
Here are my picks to replacing:
*Broken Arrow, 1st few
*Plauge (Jack Epoxied his Star Dryvins)
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The 3rd bolt of Future Shock either needs a glue in or a 1/2 x 4. Probably a glue in.
The bolts for Peregrine just need to be 3/8 x 3 Rawl.
But what to replace the bolts with? Another 5 piece Powers? I like the theory/ idea that the epoxy would support the lip of the hole...but not sure if that would work
Here are my picks to replacing:
*Broken Arrow, 1st few
*Plauge (Jack Epoxied his Star Dryvins)
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bolts on The Groove need replacing desperately if anyone had machinations to repeat that thing. sketch is right
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I thought it only had one bolt. I really like that route, just have problems finding anyone that is willing to follow it.
bolts on The Groove need replacing desperately if anyone had machinations to repeat that thing. sketch is right
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Lame excuse hard ass. If you really liked it, you'd simply lead it and clean it on rap.
BTW, next Pinns season I won't be needing to traipse all over the place checking out obscurities. I'm thinking I'm going to focus on some hard stuff, hard 11s and a 12 or two. I doubt I'll ever red point the 12s, but trying them will help make 11s seem easier. I'm nominating you, right now, as my rope gun. Looking forward to it.
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I don't know about Mr Mud, but it's the rap part that is SKETCH!
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I tried to solo it once but decided to back off.
Lame excuse hard ass. If you really liked it, you'd simply lead it and clean it on rap.
BTW, next Pinns season I won't be needing to traipse all over the place checking out obscurities. I'm thinking I'm going to focus on some hard stuff, hard 11s and a 12 or two. I doubt I'll ever red point the 12s, but trying them will help make 11s seem easier. I'm nominating you, right now, as my rope gun. Looking forward to it.
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proving that there is such a thing as too much choss?
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No, proving something even less frequently seen, something previously only rumored to exist: common sense in Mr Mud's climbing brain.
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It turns out the moves after going around the corner but before getting to the groove, seem easier with a rope. The rope drag seems to help pull you into rock. Felt really sketch without a rope, funny thing is I thought those moves would be easier without a rope since with a rope I seem to be fighting the rope a bit in the section. That was my excuse at the time.
proving that there is such a thing as too much choss?
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around the corner?
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I'm thinking I'm going to focus on some hard stuff, hard 11s and a 12 or two. I doubt I'll ever red point the 12s, but trying them will help make 11s seem easier.
Brad if you start climbing 12s, you'll have to change your license plate :cry:
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BTW, next Pinns season I won't be needing to traipse all over the place checking out obscurities. I'm thinking I'm going to focus on some hard stuff, hard 11s and a 12 or two. I doubt I'll ever red point the 12s, but trying them will help make 11s seem easier. I'm nominating you, right now, as my rope gun. Looking forward to it.
Wow. I may get to actually climb some of the classics on good (well, better) rock finally.
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BTW, next Pinns season I won't be needing to traipse all over the place checking out obscurities. I'm thinking I'm going to focus on some hard stuff, hard 11s and a 12 or two. I doubt I'll ever red point the 12s, but trying them will help make 11s seem easier. I'm nominating you, right now, as my rope gun. Looking forward to it.
Wow. I may get to actually climb some of the classics on good (well, better) rock finally.
LOL!!!!!
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You climb up the corner traverse left, go around a corner then continue left to the groove. Turning the outside corner is not to bad, but I was not willing to commit to the moves that get you into to the Groove....
So I climbed The
around the corner?
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what are you talking about?
The Groove, not the Gutter.
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Oooops
Yeah haven't tried to solo that.
:-[