MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: Jake M. on April 27, 2007, 06:02:05 AM
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Forecast for Pinnacles this Saturday:
Saturday: Sunny and hot, with a high near 96. Calm wind becoming west northwest between 5 and 8 mph.
And I thought Brad was premature talking about next season... I guess it might be time for my first trip to the grotto?
Jake
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Saturday, the schedule for the Grottto is one climbers per every two square meters. Get online and you might still be able to make a reservation. I've been in negotiations to have it designated the Tuolumne County Zoo (for weekends at least).
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Come on up Jake. The Grotto will be nice. We're heading up at 5am.
We're going to open up a few more routes to help spead the crowds out.
Maybe you can climb my test piece "Hard Times at the Winking Lantern".
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Brad, we'll be posting a sign at the gate:
"Belay cards required"
:lol:
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Maybe you can climb my test piece "Hard Times at the Winking Lantern".
Routes reinforced with epoxy are completely invalid.
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Maybe you can climb my test piece "Hard Times at the Winking Lantern".
Routes reinforced with epoxy are completely invalid.
ouch
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pinnacles season is just getting started. I love climbing there when it is over 100, you just stay in the shade and bring lots of water. It doesn't even get greasy like goldwall
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Maybe you can climb my test piece "Hard Times at the Winking Lantern".
I don't know if I'm up for THAT. I was thinking about hitting up that 5.4 testpiece you mentioned yesterday. If you can leave the draws for me...
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Routes reinforced with epoxy are completely invalid.
What's the difference from preserving a hold than making one like you did with the nut tool?
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ouch again
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Climbing at the pins Saturday. We be on the East Side climin so called classics.
Nut tools/picks are always valid. It does not matter if you use them to clean, as hooks, or as a temporary holder on a bolt hanger.
Epoxy = bad form. Let the holds break, cuz it will still go.
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Munge, come join us tomorrow at the grotto. We have a nice line of munge you can work. Even cracks.
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And, where we'll be isn't crowded with what you call "tards, so post up a different excuse, that one's getting old.
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Routes reinforced with epoxy are completely invalid.
What's the difference from preserving a hold than making one like you did with the nut tool?
Make a hold? I recall trundling a loose block. Or are you referring to all of the poison oak I removed from my unfinished route?
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Not yet...
Sunday: Partly cloudy, with a high near 84. West northwest wind between 3 and 9 mph.
Sunday Night: Partly cloudy, with a low around 43. Northwest wind between 3 and 9 mph.
Monday: Mostly sunny, with a high near 78.
Monday Night: Partly cloudy, with a low around 41.
Tuesday: Partly cloudy, with a high near 73.
Tuesday Night: Mostly cloudy, with a low around 40.
Wednesday: Mostly cloudy, with a high near 66.
Wednesday Night: Mostly cloudy, with a low around 41.
Thursday: Mostly cloudy, with a high near 67.
Thursday Night: Mostly cloudy, with a low around 41.
Friday: Mostly cloudy, with a high near 68.
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I was actually just hoping to juke people into not going to pinnacles while I plan my visits. Instead I started a little quiff... Thats why as a general rule I try to avoid the drill, and the accompanying ethical quagmires. I did place a bolt once, in El Cap, and regretted it ever since- event though it was "off route" at the top of some expanding flake to nowhere. My lunatic partner had convinced me I could pendulum off it to another route 100+ feet away. If only I had brought 10 more, I could have really done some damage!
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most sly!
8)
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Bolt it all I say, just bolt it all!
Come to the Grotto and climb some real cracks.
The place was deserted on Saturday. We put in 2 new lead lines and 1 TR.
Maybe the Mudworm would like to climb there? :lol:
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Maybe the Mudworm would like to climb there? :lol:
Sounds good, but I've quit gym long time ago...
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Maybe the Mudworm would like to climb there? :lol:
Sounds good, but I've quit gym long time ago...
BUAHAHAHAA
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mudworm wrote:
F4? wrote:
Maybe the Mudworm would like to climb there?
Sounds good, but I've quit gym long time ago...
Weak! We don't mark the holds with tape there.
Oh Mungie...seeings the Pass is going to be closed. How about some basalt cracks?
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I don't know.
This is fcking up my program.
I already sent an email to the district cal trans office.
They've got miles and miles closed, but I mean really, how much really needs closing?
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Season is not over, heading down again this weekend.
Whooo Hooooooo
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"Season is not over, heading down again this weekend."
Did you get on Ranger Bolts? You know at some point you need to at least touch the climb, maybe clip a bolt or two, chalk a hold. ;D
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not yet. gorgeous on the west side Sunday.
although in an attempt to climb new (to me) routes I find myself questioning why put up something that goes straight through a tree and raps over poison oak (lucky 13) or rains rock on your belayer (Beyond Destiny)?
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not yet. gorgeous on the west side Sunday.
although in an attempt to climb new (to me) routes I find myself questioning why put up something that goes straight through a tree and raps over poison oak (lucky 13) or rains rock on your belayer (Beyond Destiny)?
the PO has grown over the last several seasons (not my route, but I do like it). The branches have grown as well. The line used to be a bolt ladder.
Beyond Destiny raining rocks? really? It was a little mossy last I did it, but no loose rock really.
that's cool you got out tho.
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Good to see you got out and glad you got on the new Forum, Welcome.
My plan was to go down to the Pins last weekend but car problems shut me down.
not yet. gorgeous on the west side Sunday.
although in an attempt to climb new (to me) routes I find myself questioning why put up something that goes straight through a tree and raps over poison oak (lucky 13) or rains rock on your belayer (Beyond Destiny)?
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not wanting to diss anyone's routes. truly appreciative of all the work that the route setter's (and ASCA folk) put in. and of course, I know what to expect at the pinns. I think my disappointment with Beyond Destiny was that we ran into Jennifer and crew and they told us about a newer (not in the book) 10+/11- that we were hoping to do and ended up on Beyond Destiny not knowing what it was. Lucky 13 had some great opening moves on fairly decent rock.
rumor has it that the new guide will be out in June with all these great new routes, like "The Embarrassment of Riches". True?
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"Rumor has it?" Who starts such rumors?
The rumors are wrong. It looks likely that the guidebook will go to the printer in June. About 8 weeks later it will be done - in time for next Pinns season. My big decision now is whether to print 35 copies (one for each of my friends), or to stick with the 4200 copies I told the printing company.
Hey, Joe, welcome to the Forum. Could I make a polite request? Climbing routes are not "set." Artificial routes in the gym may be set, but not actual climbing routes. Now, I admit that I am being picky, and that my age is probably showing, but most of us on this forum are really old, so if you want to fit in...
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And, it matters. "Setting" routes in the gym is often a top down process involving little but labor. Especially at Pinns, where rap bolting will (hopefully) get the offending party killed, "setting" implies all the wrong things.
And who is Jennnifer?
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Hey Brad,
Good work on the book. Looking forward.
How many Pinns routes have you done to date at this point?
Jennifer, Asian women, (and Sonya?) said that she climbs with you when you can't find a "good partner".
Where is the mythical new 10+/11- near those routes?
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Jennifer! She's great She's been an unbelievable help traipsing all over the Monument with me for the last two seasons. She been dirtly, tick infested, cut up and lost, all trying to help me get stuff done. And all the while laughing about it.
Um, my route count as of the end of this season is 741. (This is routes I've lead, redpoint or better, except as to the few routes there that exist only as topropes. It doesn't count 30 or 40 routes I've been on but not climbed in good style.)
Do I know you Joe? Are you the Joe I've run into a few times on the East Side? I've spoken with you about the route Pickpocket in particular?
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The answer to your last question is the route Robots of Dawn, 5.11a. It's up and right about 150 feet from where you were climbing. If you walked/scrambled to the right off Beyond Destiny, you walked within 20 feet of the start. It's just left of the 5.11b first pitch of Son of Dawn Wall.
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Yeah, that's me. We also hung out in the parking lot one time when I was with Tom et al.
Have to check out Robots next time I'm on the west side. In the meantime, it's valley time.